Category: Travel Writing

The Mediterranean

_Southern France_ from the Loire to the Pyrenees, Auvergne, the Cévennes, the French Alps, the Rhone Valley, Provence, the French Riviera, and _Corsica_. With 42 Maps, 63 Plans, and 1 Panorama. Sixth edition. 1914

Chapters

1. Part 1

_Southern France_ from the Loire to the Pyrenees, Auvergne, the Cévennes, the French Alps, the Rhone Valley, Provence, the French Riviera, and _Corsica_. With 42 Maps, 63 Plans,...

2. Part 2

The international association of hotel-keepers has agreed on the following code: _Alba_, room with single bed; _albaduo_, room with double bed; _arab_, room with two beds; _abec...

3. Part 3

From Marseilles to Tunis (R. 21):—_North German Lloyd_ fortnightly (to Goletta only); _Générale Transatlantique_ once weekly (and thence on to Malta), and viâ Bizerta once weekl...

4. Part 4

Around these great primæval masses, deeply rooted in the earth’s crust, were gradually built up the recent folded mountains, out of materials forced aside and upwards by the déb...

5. Part 5

1. TO GIBRALTAR DIRECT. The chief Steamboat Lines (offices, comp. pp. xviii-xx) are the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, once weekly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said,...

6. Part 6

=Tramways= (_Carris de Ferro_) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important t...

7. Part 7

If time presses, we may visit both the Castello da Pena and the Quinta de Monserrate in 4–5 hrs. (cab 4500 rs., bargaining advisable). Energetic pedestrians require scarcely mor...

8. Part 8

=Steamboat Agents.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see above) for the Union Castle, Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., Booth, Hamburg-American, and Woermann Lines, the Empreza Nacional de Nave...

9. Part 9

The climate of the Canaries is remarkable for the striking contrasts prevailing between the E. and the W. groups on the one hand, and between the lower and the higher levels on...

10. Part 10

EXCURSIONS. A fine drive (12–15 p.) may be taken viâ (4½ M.) _Tegueste_ and (5½ M.) _Tejina_, not far from the gloomy _Barranco de las Palmas_, to (10½ M.) the fishing-village o...

11. Part 11

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Miller & Co._ (see above), for the Union Castle, the Austro-Americana, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Bucknall, and other lines; _Grand Canary Coaling Co._, for the Pen...

12. Part 12

=Post Office= (Pl. 1), Waterport St.; week-days 7 a.m.–8 p.m. (on Sun. 8–10 a.m.). The overland English mail closes at 6.45 a.m.—=Telegraph Office=, same place; 6 a.m. till midn...

13. Part 13

Cabs. │ 1–2 pers. │ 3–4 pers. │ by day │at night│ by day │at night ────────────────────┼────────┼────────┼────────┼──────── One-horse, per drive│1 p. │2 p. │1½ p. │2½ p. „ per h...

14. Part 14

The =Hospital de la Caridad= (Pl. F, 4; adm., see p. 60), erected for the ‘brotherhood of charity’ (Hermandad de la Caridad) in 1661–4, possesses, in its baroque church, six far...

15. Part 15

The downfall of the kingdom of Granada was at length brought about by party struggles between the _Zegri_, the _Beni Serrâj_ (the _Abencerrages_ of legend; comp. p. 84), and oth...

16. Part 16

On these buildings the highest efforts of Moorish art have been expended. Their structural value is small; the materials, chiefly wood and plaster, lack solidity, being often us...

17. Part 17

*=Park= (_Parque_ or _Jardines de Enrique Crooke Larios_; Pl. C-E, 4, 3), planted with six rows of planes and palms and with fine flower-beds. View of the harbour, part of the c...

18. Part 18

=Hotels.= HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. a; D, 1), in a quiet site, not far from the pier, with a fine sea-view, patronized by Americans, pens. from 10_s._; *HÔT. CECIL (Pl. b; E, 4, 5),...

19. Part 19

Some Roman ruins, relics of the old town of _Lixus_ (p. 95), now overgrown with brushwood, lie on the _Jebel Tshemmish_, a low hill on the right bank of the Lukkus, about 1½ hr....

20. Part 20

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Stazione Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2; Rail. Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief station for all trains, where cabs (p....

21. Part 21

=Steamboat Lines.= _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 67); _Orient Royal_ (Worms & Co., Rue...

22. Part 22

On the voyage from Marseilles to BOUGIE the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algeria...

23. Part 23

=Naples.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H,...

24. Part 24

The monastery (suppressed, and now private property, but still occupied by several monks; fee 30–50 c.; ladies not admitted) offers little attraction. Straight through the garde...

25. Part 25

*=Cathedral= (Pl. C, 2), dedicated to the _Assunta_, on the site of an older church which the Moors had converted into a mosque. The original Romanesque building, erected by Arc...

26. Part 26

Originally named _Zancle_ (_i.e._ sickle), Messina was one of the earliest of the Greek colonies in Sicily, having been founded about 730 B.C. Early in the 5th cent. it was occu...

27. Part 27

The =Cathedral= is built into a Doric temple, probably of _Minerva_, the beauty of which was extolled by Cicero in his oration against Verres (p. 157). It stood on a basement of...

28. Part 28

Down to the end of the middle ages Algeria was historically inseparable from Tunisia and Morocco (see pp. 95, 187, 188, 322). After the whole coast as far as the Atlantic had be...

29. Part 29

The Gulf of Oran, where the _Portus Divinus_ (Mers el-Kébir, p. 183) was the only Roman settlement, was unimportant in ancient times. Native tradition ascribes the foundation of...

30. Part 30

To the S.W. from La Sénia diverges the ORAN AND AÏN-TEMOUCHENT LINE (from Oran 47½ M., in 2¼–3 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60 c.). The train skirts the S. base of _Jeb...

31. Part 31

The _Oulâd el-Imâm Mosque_ (Pl. B, 3), to the N. of the Rue Haëdo, was built about 1310 by the Abdelwadite Abû Hammu I. as a chapel for the Medersa el-Kadîma, the oldest school...

32. Part 32

67½ M. _Dublineau_ (443 ft.). 78 M. _Bou-Hanifia_ is the station for the small baths of _Hammam Bou-Hanifia_, on the right bank of the Habra, 2½ M. to the S.W. (Bath Hotel). The...

33. Part 33

FROM RELIZANE TO TIARET, 75 M., railway in 4¾ hrs. (fare 9 fr. 65 or 7 fr. 25 c.). Scenery unattractive. Beyond (5½ M.) _Oued-Khelloug_ the train follows the course of the _Mina...

34. Part 34

From Porte Bizot we may turn to the E. and walk round the town-walls through an avenue of carob-trees to the Bab el-Rabah (Pl. D, 4), the S.E. town-gate, which is reached also f...

35. Part 35

TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon, _Place de la République_, _Boul. de la République_, _Place du Gouvernement_, _Great Mosque_, _Archevêché_ (pp. 222–224), *_Kasba Quarter_ (pp. 226, 227)...

36. Part 36

The *=Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân= (Pl. 18, C 2; adm., see p. 220), built in 1696 and dedicated to the learned marabout Sidi Abderrahmân et-Tsalbi (1387–1468), the chief saint of...

37. Part 37

From the Arab village the road descends to the W. to the (1¼ M.) =Forêt de Baïnem=, the largest wood (1250 acres) near Algiers. We follow the ‘Route Forestière Wendling’, high o...

38. Part 38

RAILWAY (Algiers and Oran Line, R. 33) viâ (31½ M.) Blida (p. 213) to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, six trains daily, in l–3/4–2¾ hrs. (7 fr. 75, 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.).—STEAM TRAMWAY f...

39. Part 39

100½ =M. Maillot= (1477 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, R. 2 fr., déj. or D. 2 fr., Hôt. de la Poste, Hôt. de l’Union, all poor), a small village 2½ M. to the N. of the station (about...

40. Part 40

Good climbers, properly equipped, may in the warmer season explore some of the fine passes among the *=Jurjura= or =Djurdjura Mts.=, the Roman _Mons Ferratus_, and ascend some o...

41. Part 41

The ascent of =Jebel Gouraya= (2166 ft.) takes 2–2½ hrs. on foot or 1¾ hr. by mule (3 fr., and fee of 1 fr.). We first follow the Rue du Gouraya and Chemin du Gouraya, or else a...

42. Part 42

250½ M. _Oued-Séguin-Télergma_ (2480 ft.), in the _Plaine de Télergma_, where the neighbouring garrisons have their summer training. It is the station for (5½ M.) the little tow...

43. Part 43

=Hotels= (comp. p. 174; often crowded in Feb. and March). *ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. a; C, 3), Avenue Delacroix, at the S. end of the town, with garden-court, terrace, belvedere (p. 281)...

44. Part 44

ROAD, to Lambèse 7 M. (diligence four times daily, in 1 hr.), to Timgad 23½ M.—The diligence from Batna to (67 M.) Khenchela (p. 273), starting at 4 a.m., reaches at 8 a.m., bey...

45. Part 45

From the centre of the theatre colonnade we may walk to the W. to the _Petits Thermes du Centre_ (Pl. E, 3), with admirably preserved heating apparatus in the caldarium and laco...

46. Part 46

From the Rue Perrégaux we may descend by the Rue de l’Arc and (to the right) the Rue de l’Alma, or direct by the Rue Morland, under the new bridge, to the small kubba of =Sidi-R...

47. Part 47

135½ M. =Bona.=—STATIONS. 1. _Gare de la Comp. Bône-Guelma_ (Pl. A, 4), the chief station, for Constantine and for Souk-Ahras and Tunis (RR. 49, 51).—2. _Gare de la Comp. du Mok...

48. Part 48

The highroad now descends to the N. to the (7 min.) so-called **=Basilica=, the most remarkable early-Christian ruin in Algeria, still in some respects an enigma to archæologist...

49. Part 49

Lovers of art will find Tunisia a most attractive country. As in Algeria and Morocco, so here also the megalithic monuments (dolmens, basinas, etc.), built of huge blocks of sto...

50. Part 50

=Tramways= (fares by zones, from 5 c. upwards; also transfer-tickets), from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.: =1.= _Porte de France_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), Ave. du Port, _Harb...

51. Part 51

Time permitting, we may glance at the _Rue des Potiers_ (Pl. C, 3), seat of the once noted pottery of Tunis, or at the =Jewish Quarter= (_Hara_; Pl. C, 3, 4), in the N.E. part o...

52. Part 52

=Carthage=, once the proud queen of the seas, lay 10 M. to the E. of Tunis on a low range of hills culminating in _Cape Carthage_ (p. 351). The cape was originally an island, bu...

53. Part 53

The train crosses the plain, to the N., towards the _Garaet Ichkeul_ or _Achkel_, the _Sisara Lacus_ of the ancients, a freshwater-lake abounding in fish, but very shallow and r...

54. Part 54

We may thence walk in ½ hr. to the _Prise d’Eau_ (902 ft.), the reservoir of the new conduit which supplies both Zaghouan and Tunis with water from the _Aïn Ayed_. The direct ro...

55. Part 55

HOTELS (comp. p. 324). _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. a; D, 2), Cours de la Marine, R. 4–7, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 11–15 fr.; _Hôtel de France_ (Pl. b; C, 1), Avenue Krantz, R. 3–6, B....

56. Part 56

In the centre of the S. suburb, almost exclusively inhabited by Europeans, is the PLACE CARNOT (Pl. C, 5), with its small _Jardin Public_. On its W. side the Rue du Contrôle, wi...

57. Part 57

_Sfax_, Arabic _Sfakês_ (pop. 70,000, incl. 6400 Europeans, of whom 3100 are Italians and 1300 Maltese), the second-largest town in Tunisia, is also its chief seaport next to Tu...

58. Part 58

Before riding through the *=Oasis= (2–3 hrs.; mule with guide 3–4 fr.), the finest in the Djerid, with its 187,000 palms, we proceed from the souks to the so-called *_Corbeille_...

59. Part 59

Route Page 63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse) 396 64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta 404 65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna 412 Leptis Ma...

60. Part 60

SECOND FLOOR. In the _Ante Room_ are Roman sculptures.—The _Chief Hall_ contains prehistoric, Phœnician, Punic, and Roman objects from tombs in Malta and Gozo. By the entrance-w...

61. Part 61

From the Piazza (Pl. B, 2; Arabic Mussâiya) near the church the Strada del Consolato Italiano leads to the S. to the Sûk el-Harrâra (Pl. B, A, 2, 3), the chief thoroughfare betw...

62. Part 62

*_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong...

63. Part 63

The church of **=San Marco= (Pl. H, 5), which is said to contain the bones of St. Mark, was begun in 830, rebuilt after a fire in 976, and restored after the middle of the 11th...

64. Part 64

Beyond the _Œnussae Islands_ (p. 493) we proceed to the E.S.E. till at length we pass the W. coast of _Crete_ (p. 415) and the island of _Gavdos_ (p. 418). We then lose sight of...

65. Part 65

The _Harbour_ of 570 acres has a depth of 26 ft., which is maintained by laborious dredging. It is sheltered by two massive breakwaters, the _Jetée Ouest_, 2460 yds. long, with...

66. Part 66

HISTORY. In hoar antiquity a suburb of Heliopolis (p. 459) lay on the E. bank of the Nile, opposite the great Pyramids, and was called by the Egyptians _Kherē-ohē_, or place of...

67. Part 67

Farther on this line of streets is called Shâria et-Tabbâneh. On the right rises the *=Mosque el-Merdani= (Pl. E, 5), one of the largest in Cairo. It was built by the cup-bearer...

68. Part 68

*=Zoological Garden= (adm. ½ pias.; on Sun. afternoon, when a band plays, 5 pias.), containing many Egyptian and Sudanese animals and an aquarium. The grounds, 50 acres in area,...

69. Part 69

We ride straight to the *_Step Pyramid_ (Arab. El-Hâram el-Mudarrag), the great landmark of Sakkâra. This was the tomb of king Zoser (3rd Dynasty, about 2900–2850 B.C.), and is...

70. Part 70

The population is estimated at 70,000, of whom 45,000 are Jews, living mostly on alms bestowed by the charitable institutions of their European co-religionists; of the 15,000 Ch...

71. Part 71

From the Damascus Gate (p. 473) the road leads past the _Dominican Monastery of St. Stephen_ (on the right; Pl. E, 1) and then, beyond the Anglican _Bishop’s House_, past the so...

72. Part 72

Opposite the Military Serâi is the entrance to the ‘_Greek Bazaar_‘, a covered market restored in 1893, one of the largest in the city. Among the wares, for which buyers can har...

73. Part 73

Before us are the ancient _Mt. Ægaleos_ (now _Skaramangá Mts._) and the indented coast of the island of _Salamis_, which appears at both ends to join the mainland. Above Salamis...

74. Part 74

The main street is that of _Hagios Nikólaos_ (St. Nicholas), leading to the S.E. from the quay. The third cross-street to the right leads to the _Platia Hagios Geórgios_, contai...

75. Part 75

A new period in the history of art was inaugurated by _Hadrian_ (A.D. 117–38), the friend of Greece, to whom countless statues were erected under the titles of the Olympian, the...

76. Part 76

The terrace of rock just mentioned, to which nine low steps ascend farther on, once bore the temple of _Artemis Braurōnia_, but is now strewn with beams and fragments of ceiling...

77. Part 77

The market was adorned with statues of great poets and orators, such as Pindar and Demosthenes. Around it rose the chief public buildings. Among them were the _Stoa Basileios_ (...

78. Part 78

Beyond _Cape Colonna_ or _Kolonnaes_ (ancient _Sunion_), on which the columns of the temple of Poseidon are conspicuous, opens the _Strait of Kea_, between (left and right) the...

79. Part 79

Accounts are still kept in the provinces in ‘bad (_chürük_) piastres’; of these there are silver coins worth 1¼, 2½, and 5 pias., and copper coins of 1¼ and 2½ pias.—The Turkish...

80. Part 80

=Galata=, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555), corresponding with the 13th region of...

81. Part 81

No less conspicuous than the Aya Sophia is the *=Mosque of Ahmed I.= (Pl. H, 7), on the S.E. side of At Meïdán. It was built by the young sultan of that name in 1608–14 as the s...

82. Part 82

The Thracian *=Bosporus= (‘ox-ford’, from the Greek myth that Io swam in the shape of a cow from Asia to Europe), Turk. Kara _Denis Boghaz_ or _Stambul Boghaz_ (Black Sea or Sta...

83. Part 83

=Cafés.= _Fanconi_, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); _Robinat_, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); _Liebmann_, corner of...

84. Part 84

_Trebizond_, the Turkish _Tirabson_ or _Tarábosan_, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsu...

85. Part 85

=Cairo=, 439. Amru Mosque, 460. Aquarium, 457. Atabet el-Khadra, 446. Bâb el-Attaba, 454. — el-Azab, 453. — el-Futûh, 449. — el-Gedîd, 453. — el-Mitwelli, 450. — en-Nasr, 449. —...

86. Part 86

=Granada=, 73. Alameda, 77. — del Darro, 78. Albaicín, the, 74, 79. Albaida, 78. Alcaicería, 76. ALHAMBRA, 79. Abencerrages, Hall of the, 84. Adarves, Jardin de los, 82. Alcazab...

87. Part 87

=Naples=, 135. Antignano, 12. Aquarium, 141. Archetiello, 1, 142. Bella Vista, 142. Cabs, 136. Cafés, 136. Camaldoli, 141. Castel Capuano, 140. Castello dell’Ovo, 138. Castel Nu...

88. Part 88

=Tunis=, 329. Administration des Habous, 334. El-Ariana, 338. Avenue de France, 333. — de la Marine, 333. — Jules-Ferry, 333. Bab Alleoua, 339. — Djedid, 337. — el-Khadra, 339....