Part 80

Of BOOKS on Constantinople may be mentioned: _Grosvenor_, Constantinople (2 vols., London, 1895); _W. H. Hutton_, Constantinople in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1900); and _Van Millingen_, Byzantine Constantinople, The Walls, etc. (London, 1899).

a. Galata and Pera.

=Galata=, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555), corresponding with the 13th region of the city of Constantine (p. 541). In the middle ages it was usually called _Peira_. Its inhabitants are chiefly Greeks and Armenians. In 1304 the Genoese (see above) enclosed it with a wall, and down to 1453 held an almost independent position under their own rulers (podestà). The wall was often rebuilt and was at last removed (1864).

Behind the GALATA QUAY (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of the GRAND RUE DE GALATA (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E. suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier RUE DE KARAKEUÏ (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place Karakeuï. where the _Exchange_ rises on the left.

In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous _Palace of the Podestà_ (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the _Arab Jami_ (Pl. G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the _Yanik Kapu_, an old Genoese gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the _Asab Kapu Jami_ (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is a beautiful *_Sebíl_ (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting timber roof (18th cent.).

From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G, 3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty YÜKSEK KALDIRIM (Pl. H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1; p. 538).

On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N. end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the =Galata Tower= (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft. high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the three upper stories.

The *PANORAMA from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque, and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see inset map in Plan of city).

The modern streets of =Pera=, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens, across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here.

The GRANDE RUE DE PÉRA (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek Kaldirim, passes the _Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes_ (Tekkeh; Pl. H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs. before sunset; adm. 5 pias.).

We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue Vénédik) to the—

=Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs= (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the _British Embassy_ (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539).

We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra, whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the _Galata Seraï_ (Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh.

Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the PLACE DU TAXIM (Pl. 1, 2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the _Artillery Barracks_, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *=Taxim Park= (Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade.

From the Place du Taxim we may ascend the Ayas Pasha Boulevard, past the _German Embassy_, or from the Taxim Park the Dolma Bagtché Déré (Pl. K, 1; Dolma-garden valley), past the _Ecuries Impériales_, to PLACE DOLMA BAGTCHÉ DÉRÉ. On the E. side of this square, below the suburb of that name, rises the =Dolma Bagcheh Palace= (pp. 558, 546), of which only the high walls with their superb gateways are seen on the inland side. The sultan repairs hither weekly in solemn procession (‘selamlik’) to Friday prayer (at noon), usually offered in the neighbouring _Valideh Jami_ (mosque of the sultan’s mother; Pl. K, 1, 2).

We may now follow the road to the N.E. through the adjacent suburb of _Beshiktash_, where, opposite the steamboat pier, rises the _Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (p. 221), which is best viewed from the Bosporus. Farther on are the ruins of the Chiragan Seraï (p. 558).

From the pier of Beshiktash a road leads to the N.E. to the =Yildiz Kiosque=, surrounded with barracks and high walls, formerly the residence of the now deposed sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909). The _Palace_ and its _Park_, and the private _Hamidieh Mosque_, built of white marble, are inaccessible.

It is now best to return by tramway (No. 2; p. 538) to the large suburb of =Top Haneh= (Pl. I, 3), inhabited chiefly by Turks, with the loftily situated _Jihangir Mosque_ (1553).

Here, in the esplanade of the Artillery Arsenal on the Bosporus, are situated the _Mosque of Mahmud II._ (1830) and a fine but now roofless _Well House_ of the time of Ahmed II. (1703–30), resembling the sebíl at the Asab Kapu (p. 543). The _Mosque of Kilij Ali Pasha_ (Pl. I, 3) was built by Sinán (p. 552).

We now return to Pera by the Rues Tchoukour Bostan and Yéni Tcharchi (p. 544), or by the GRANDE RUE DE GALATA (Pl. I, H, 3, 4), the busiest international thoroughfare, to Place Karakeuï (p. 543).

b. Stambul.

From the Rue Karakeuï, in Galata, the =New Bridge= (Pl. H, 4, 5) crosses the Golden Horn (p. 555) to Stambul (toll 10 paras; carr. 2½ pias.). It was originally built of timber in 1845, and called _Sultan Valideh Bridge_ after its founder (the ‘sultan’s mother’), and was rebuilt in 1877. The new iron bridge was begun in 1909. It affords beautiful *Views of Galata and Stambul, of the Bosporus and the Asiatic coast, while its busy and picturesque traffic presents scenes of endless variety.

At the S. end of the bridge lies the PLACE EMIN EUNOU (Pl. H, 5), called also _Baluk Bazar_ or fish-market, beyond which rise the fine outlines of the—

*=Yeni Valideh Jami= (Pl. H, 5), or ‘new mosque of the sultan’s mother’. Begun in 1615 by _Khoja Kassim_ for the mother of Ahmed I., after the model of Ahmed’s Mosque, and damaged by the great fire of 1660, it was not completed till 1663. In the middle of the outer court are ranged, as in all the larger Turkish mosques, the forecourt (harám) with its three portals, the mosque itself, and the türbeh (p. 539), all turned towards Mecca (to the S.E.).

The forecourt, with its two elegant minarets and large wooden roofs above the side-portals, has a remarkably fine octagonal fountain of ablution (shudrivàn) in the centre.

Like the Suleïmanieh (p. 552) the mosque is preceded by two colonnades. In the interior the lower wall surfaces and the four massive pillars of the dome are incrusted with bluish-green tiles. The mihrâb wall is connected with the pillars by a gallery; adjoining it, near the mihrâb or prayer-niche itself, are the superb pulpit and the railed-in gallery of the sultan. The adjacent *Private Rooms of the sultan still have their original decoration of fayence tiles and stained glass.

The Türbeh contains the sarcophagus of the sultan’s mother and the tombs of five sultans, recognizable by the turban and double heron’s plume.

On the W. side of the outer court is the =Missir Charshi= (Pl. G, 5; ‘Egyptian Bazaar’), originally for goods from Egypt, but now a general market, next in importance to the Great Bazaar (p. 551). Among the wares in the open shops of the vaulted street the chief commodities are spices, drugs, and pigments.

To the W. of the Egyptian Bazaar, at the foot of Rue Ousoun Tcharchi (p. 551), rises the _Mosque of Rustem Pasha_ (Pl. G, 5), vizier of Suleiman the Great (p. 542) and husband of his daughter Mihrimah (p. 553). It was built by Sinán (p. 552). The interior is noteworthy chiefly for the superb effect produced by its fayence tiles.

We follow the tramway (No. 3; p. 538), to the S.E., through the Rue Bagtché Kapou, so named after the old ‘garden-gate’ of Stambul, and the Hamidieh Jaddesi, crossing the broad Bab Ali Jaddesi which leads to the left to the _Railway Station_ (p. 537). Farther on we come to the wall of the Seraglio on the left, and to (10 min.) the _Sublime Porte_ (Pl. H, 6; vizierate and ministry of foreign affairs) on the right. Its central part, which contained the ministry of home affairs and the cabinet was burnt down in Feb. 1911.

The =Seraglio= or _Seraï_ (Pl. H-I, 5, 7; now officially called _Top Kapu Seraï_, ‘seraglio of the cannon-gate’), with its neglected garden-terraces and miscellaneous buildings, occupies the site of the Acropolis and oldest streets of Byzantium (p. 541) and the first of the seven hills of New Rome. Within the extensive precincts, enclosed by a pinnacled wall and defended by towers, Mohammed II. in 1468 erected a summer palace, which Suleiman the Great (p. 542) enlarged and made his residence. All the sultans resided here until Abdul Mejíd built the Dolma Bagcheh Palace (1850–5; p. 558). In 1873 the railway was carried through the gardens, past the _Granite Column of Emp. Claudius II._ (268–70 A. D.). Around the palace are grouped the old church of Irene (p. 548), several military and other new buildings, the imperial _Mint_, and the _School of Art_ founded in 1889.

From the chief entrance, the _So-uk Cheshmeh Gate_ (Pl. H, 6), we ascend to the right, past the Mint, to the first terrace. A road to the left leads thence, behind the School of Art, to the New Museum, on the right, and the Chinili Kiosque, on the left.

The =New Museum= (Pl. I, 6), opened in 1891, contains the imperial **_Collection of Antiquities_, the arrangement of which is still incomplete. Adm., see p. 539. Director, Halil Bey.

GROUND FLOOR. The first rooms, on the right and left of the entrance, contain the sarcophagi, including the famous coffins discovered in 1887 in the so-called royal tombs of Sidon (p. 470). The two vaults, in which the rulers of Sidon of the 6–4th cent. B. C. are supposed to have been buried, contained 26 stone coffins, some in the Egyptian form of a mummy, with sculptured heads, others shaped like Greek temples. In several cases their execution is highly artistic. The finest are in (right) Room I: *No. 48. So-called Satrap’s Coffin, of Ionian workmanship (first half of 5th cent.); *49. Sarcophagus of the mourning women, in marble, in the form of a temple, influenced in style by the works of Praxiteles (4th cent.). In (left) Room II: *No. 75. Lycian sarcophagus, with lid in the form of a pointed arch, executed under the fresh influence of the Parthenon reliefs (p. 517); **76. Alexander sarcophagus, an Attic original (about 300 B. C.), with traces of rich colouring; 90. Sarcophagus of Tabnit, king of Sidon, originally that of an Egyptian general (6th cent.). Again, in Room I: No. 1142. Tomb-stele from Nisyros (p. 490; about 500 B.C.); 45. Tomb-stele from Pella, a fine early Greek work like the last; 31–33. Fragments of Roman sarcophagi (Ulysses fighting against the wooers, etc.); also leaden coffins from Beirut, Khoms (p. 412), etc. (Room II contains also six terracotta coffins from Klazomenæ, 6th cent. B. C.). Among the objects in the other rooms we note a large Lycian sarcophagus from Trysa (2nd cent. B. C.); *1179. Late Roman sarcophagus from the region of Konia, with the recumbent figures of man and wife.

A large room is devoted solely to the art and inscriptions of the Hittites, the dominating race on the Upper Euphrates, in Syria, and in Asia Minor from about 1500 to 1000 B.C., who were afterwards split up into small principalities and lost their national characteristics. From this later period (about 9–8th cent.) date the numerous objects from Senjerli in N. Syria (among others No. 873. Two sphinxes as a base of a column). Other relics are from Marrash in N. Syria (840. Lion with inscription) and from Albistan (835. Limestone pillar).

Two rooms are set apart for the Greek-Roman sculptures. Among the chief early Greek works (6th cent. B.C.) are: No. 5bis. Reliefs from a tombstone in the form of a pillar, with scenes of peace and war; 8, 133. Torso of Apollo and Relief of Hercules drawing his bow, both from Thasos; 680. Tomb-stele from Dorylæum in Phrygia; *78. Head of a man, early Ionian, from Rhodes; 32, 33. Kybele, from Kyme; 1136. Relief, Birth of Athena, from Chalcedon.—Of the 5th cent.: No. 1189. Caryatid; 1433. Hermes Propylæos, after the famous work of Alkamenes (Roman copy); *148. Snake’s head from the tripod in the At Meïdán (p. 549). Among other creations of the Greek golden age (4th cent.) are: No. 1121. Statue of a youth; 114. Upper half of a stele, from Kyzikos; 1242. Relief with a portrait of Euripides; 1028. Relief of a woman playing on the lyre, from Mysia.—Hellenistic sculptures from Pergamum (p. 533): *764. Dancer, from a large circular monument; *1138. Marble head (Alexander the Great?); 72. Marsyas hanging (a good copy); also important: *709. Alexander the Great, from Magnesia on the Sipylos; 685. Colossal head of Zeus, from Troy; 9. Colossal statue of Apollo, from Tralleis; *1423. Relief of a boatman (?), from Tralleis, in the style of the ‘Alexandrine’ reliefs.—Of Roman origin: 31. Largest representation of the so-called Thracian horseman, from a triumphal arch at Saloniki.

In the room of the Byzantine antiquities we note No. 164. Statue of the Good Shepherd (3rd cent.?); *1090. Early-Christian pulpit from Saloniki, with the Adoration of the Magi in detached figures; 189, 190. Fragments of a column with scenes with figures (Baptism of Christ, etc.; about 500); also interesting capitals with figures and foliage ornamentation.

Two rooms form an Architectural Museum (Asia Minor relics).

The FIRST FLOOR is occupied by the Babylonian-Assyrian antiquities (incl. the glazed terracotta sarcophagi from Nippur, and No. 1027. Votive relief of king Narâm-Sin, about 3750 B.C.), the unimportant Egyptian relics, and curiosities from Cyprus (p. 489), Himyar (region of Yemen in S. Arabia), and Palmyra. Then collections of bronzes and trinkets from Schliemann’s excavations at Hissarlik (p. 534), from the Sidonian sarcophagi (p. 546), etc.; vases and terracottas from Asia Minor (Hissarlik, Myrina, Priene), Cos (p. 490), and Rhodes; glass vessels from Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and Tripolitania; also a collection of coins.—The N. wing contains the _Museum Library_.

The elegant =Chinili Kiosque= (Pl. I, 6; ‘fayence palace’), one of the oldest Turkish buildings in the city, was erected in 1470 by _Kemal ed-Din_ under Mohammed II., in the Persian style, and was restored in 1590. In 1908 it was converted into an *_Oriental Art Museum_. Adm., see p. 539.

The two-storied portico (ticket-office on the left) contains tombstones, etc.—The vestibule, with its original inscribed frieze, is adorned with well-preserved green *Fayence Tiles.

The domed hall and five side-rooms contain Arabian, Persian, and Turkish fayence, Turkish pottery, seals (tugres), firmans, and irades of Turkish sultans, woodwork (koran-desks, cabinets, etc.), leather (beautiful book-bindings), and metal work; also cut gems, Arabian and Venetian glass, mosque-lamps, embroidery, and *Persian Carpets. The chief treasures of the collection are the *Prayer Niche from the palace of the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin at Konia (13th cent.) and a throne of Selim I. (p. 512).

Passing the Mint (p. 546) we next enter the outer court of the Seraglio. In the centre rises the huge _Janissaries’ Plane Tree_ (Pl. I, 6), where the janissaries (p. 550) used to meet.—To the left the _Orta Kapu_ leads to the _Seraglio Palace_ (adm., see p. 540). It contains the throne-room (Arsh Odasi) of the time of Suleiman the Great, the Library, the Imperial Treasury (hazneh han), and the superb Bagdad Kiosque (1639), etc.

Above the outer court rises, on the right, the =Church of Irene= (Pl. I, 6; dedicated to ‘divine peace’), a domed basilica built by Constantine, and restored first by Justinian after the Nika revolt (p. 541), and again in 740. After the Turkish conquest it was used as an arsenal, but is now a _Military Museum_ (adm., see p. 539).

We leave the Seraglio by the _Bab i Humayún_ (Pl. I, 6), the superb modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II.

In the SERAÏ MEÏDÁN (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side of the palace-walls, rises the *_Fountain of Ahmed III._, erected in 1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof. Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the _Ministry of Justice_ (Pl. H, 1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in 1908–9.

The **=Aya Sóphia Mosque= (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. 539), formerly the church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p. 546), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326, opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice, which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by _Anthemios_ of Tralleis and _Isidoros_ of Miletos.

The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom, runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by 77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth, the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats.

The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. 542), and many of its treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A thorough restoration was undertaken by _Fossati_, an Italian architect, in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes.

The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the INNER VESTIBULE (eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule (exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine *Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels.

The northmost portal admits us to the *INTERIOR, in which the immense central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.). The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing. (Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.)

During the nights of Ramadan (p. 539) visitors are admitted only to the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times.

On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise five TÜRBEHS, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign.

The AYA SÓPHIA MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient _Augusteion_ (or Agorá), the greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to the Golden Gate (p. 554). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the AT MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the site of a _Hippodrome_ begun by Sept. Severus (p. 541) and completed by Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. 548), the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of Marmora.

At the N. angle of At Meïdán, where Rue Divan Yolou (p. 550) diverges, lies a small _Public Garden_. Farther on, to the S.W., passing a _Street Fountain_ presented by Emp. William II. in 1898, we come to three ancient monuments which still occupy their old places on the spina of the Hippodrome (comp. p. 348). One is the _Obelisk of Theodosius I._, dating from the time of Thutmosis III. (p. 456; brought from Heliopolis), with Roman reliefs, on the pedestal, of the imperial family viewing the races from the court-stand of the Hippodrome. The second is the bronze *_Snake Column_, once the central support of a huge tripod which the Greeks erected as a votive offering at Delphi after the victory of Platæa (p. 506). The third is the so-called _Colossus_, an obelisk of unknown origin.