Part 65

The _Harbour_ of 570 acres has a depth of 26 ft., which is maintained by laborious dredging. It is sheltered by two massive breakwaters, the _Jetée Ouest_, 2460 yds. long, with a statue of Ferd. de Lesseps (1805–94), the builder of the Suez Canal (1859–69), and the _Jetée Est_, 1750 yds. long. The former protects it against the mud of the Nile. Between these is the _Digue Nouvelle_, an inner breakwater 597 yds. long, for shelter against E. winds; on the mainland opposite (to the W.) rises the *_Phare_, a lighthouse 174 ft. high, visible 23 M. away.

The inner harbour of 220 acres consists of the _Bassin Ismaïl_ (with its three very shallow creeks), the _Bassin des Chalands Charbonniers_, and the _Bassin Abbas Hilmi_ or _Africa Basin_, with the quarantine establishment.

The Rue Quai du Nord (tramway) leads to the N.W. to the _Quartier Arabe_.

71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo.

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO, 130 M., express in 3, ordinary train in 6–6¾ hrs.; 1st cl. 87½, 2nd cl. 44 pias.—FROM PORT SAID TO CAIRO, 145 M., express (with dining-car) in 4–4¼, ordinary in 5 hrs.; 96 or 48 pias.—As to transport of luggage, see p. 431.—The buffets at the intermediate stations are poor.

_Alexandria_, see p. 431. The Cairo railway, the oldest in the East (1855), rounds _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), which during the Nile inundation rises at places to the permanent way. On the left is the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 434).

On the right beyond (17 M.) _Kafr ed-Dâwâr_ appear the first cotton-fields.—38 M. _Damanhûr_ (pop. 22,100), the ancient Egyptian _Timē-en-Hor_ (town of Horus) and Roman _Hermopolis Parva_, is now the capital of the province of _Beheireh_, which extends from the Rosetta arm of the Nile (p. 418) to the Libyan desert.

The soil becomes more fertile. Villages of wretched mud-huts and a few groups of trees appear. We cross the _Rosetta Arm_. 64½ M. _Kafr ez-Zaiyât_.

76 M. =Tanta= (Buffet; Hôt. Khédivial, etc.; Brit. cons. agent, E. Erba; pop. 80,000), capital of the province of _Gharbîyeh_, between the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418), possesses a palace of the Khedive and an unfinished mosque of _Seiyid el-Bedawi_, a popular Egyptian saint, born at Fez (12th cent.). The great August fair (_el-Mûlid el-Kebîr_; ‘the great mûlid’, or nativity of the saint) is often attended by half-a-million persons, including a number of European merchants.

Farther on we pass several cotton-cleaning mills, evidencing the prosperity of this region, and then cross the _Damietta Arm_.

101 M. =Benha= (Buffet), junction of the Port Said (see below) and Suez lines, is noted for its fruit. 120½ M. _Kalyûb_ (or _Qualioub_).

The Libyan hills become more prominent; so also the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 443) and the citadel with the slender minarets of the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454). Gardens and villas appear. On the left are the site of ancient Heliopolis (p. 459; obelisk not visible), Matarîyeh with its sycamores, Kubbeh, the residence of the Khedive, and the suburb of Abbâsîyeh (p. 459).

130 M. =Cairo= (chief station), see p. 439.

* * * * *

_Port Said_, see p. 436. The Cairo line at first skirts the W. bank of the _Suez Canal_ (p. 437). On the right lies _Lake Menzaleh_.

Beyond (28 M.) _El-Kantara_ (‘the bridge’), the isthmus between lakes Menzaleh and _Balah_, traversed by the time-honoured military and caravan route from Egypt to Syria, we cross the bed of the latter lake, now largely drained.

We next cross _El-Gisr_ (‘the barrier’), a hill 52 ft. high, between lakes Balah and _Timsâh_ (‘crocodile’), once the most serious obstacle in the way of the canal.

49 M. =Ismaîlîya=, or _Ismaïlia_ (Buffet; pop. 7000), junction for Suez, a quiet little town on the N. bank of Lake Timsâh.

The train now runs to the W. through the _Arabian Desert_, intersected here by the _Wâdi Tûmîlât_, and skirts the _Ismaîlîyeh Canal_ (p. 454).

Near (85 M.) _Abu Hammâd_ begins the well-watered and well-planted E. part of the Nile Delta. To the S. of the railway lies the Biblical land of _Goshen_ (Gen. xlv. 10), which was miserably neglected during the Turkish period, but has now awakened to new life.

97 M. =Zakâzîk= (Buffet; Brit. cons. agent, G. Diacono; pop. 60,000), capital of the E. Egyptian province of _Sharkîyeh_, favourably situated at the junction of several railways and on the _Muizz Canal_ (part of the ancient Tanite arm of the Nile, see p. 418), is a rapidly improving place. It is the chief seat of the Egyptian cotton and grain trade. The large cotton-mills give some quarters of the town quite a European look.—Near _Tell Basta_, ½ hr. to the S.E. of Zakâzîk, are the ruins of the ancient _Bubastis_ (Egyp. _Per-Bastē_, the _Pi-beseth_ of Ezekiel xxx. 17).

116 M. _Benha_, and thence to (145 M.) _Cairo_, see p. 438.

Cairo.[7]

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Central Station_ (Pl. B, 1; Buffet), for Alexandria, Port Said, and Upper Egypt, to the N.W. of the town, beyond the Ismaîlîyeh Canal, ½ M. from the Ezbekîyeh.—=2.= _Pont Limûn Station_, or _Gare de Matarîyeh_, adjoining the central, for Matarîyeh (Old Heliopolis), for the electric line to the Heliopolis Oasis (see p. 441), etc.—=3.= _Bâb el-Lûk Station_ (Pl. B, 5), for Helwân (p. 464).—The hotel omnibuses and the porters and tourist-agents (p. 441) await the arrival of the express trains. Or an Arab porter, wearing a metal badge on his arm, may be engaged to carry luggage to an omnibus or a cab (tariff, see p. 441). Heavy luggage is taken to the hotels in separate vehicles.

Footnote 7:

A STREET is often called _sikkeh_ or _tarîk_. A _shâria_ (French _chareh_) is an avenue or boulevard; _derb_ is a road (also caravan-route); _hâra_, a lane (also quarter of the city); _atfa_, a blind alley or _cul-de-sac_; _mîdân_, a square. Most of the names have been affixed, since the British occupation, in Arabic character and in English or French transliteration. It should be noted that in the Plan and in the text the English _ee_ is replaced by the continental and more usual _i_ or _î_ and the French _ou_ or English _oo_ usually by _u_ or _û_.

=Hotels= (mostly in the English style and excellent, but generally crowded in Jan.-March; advisable to telegraph for rooms from Alexandria or Port Said; closed in summer or charges reduced).

_In the Town_: *SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Kâmel, with terrace, garden, restaurant, bar, post-office, etc., pens. from 80 pias., patronized by American and English travellers; *SAVOY (Pl. B, 4), Mîdân Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 80 pias., with excellent restaurant (déj. 30, D. 50 pias.); *SEMIRAMIS (Pl. A, 5), Kasr ed-Dubara, on the Nile, with garden and roof-terrace, restaurant, post-office, etc., pens. from 80 pias.; *CONTINENTAL (Pl. B, C, 3), Place de l’Opéra, with terrace, restaurant, etc., pens. from 70 pias., frequented by English travellers; *HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Maghrâbi, with terrace, etc., pens. 70–80 pias.—*NATIONAL (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 50 pias.; NEW KHEDIVIAL HOTEL (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Bâb el-Hadîd, pens. from 45 pias.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Genaïneh, pens. from 50 pias., frequented by English and American travellers; VILLA VICTORIA (Pl. B, 3; private hotel), Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha, quiet and well-situated, pens. 70 pias.; VILLA NATIONALE, Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha (Pl. B, 3), also a private hotel, with garden and tennis-court, pens. 50 pias.; BRISTOL & DU NIL (Pl. C, 2, 3), Mîdân el-Khaznedâr, pens. from 65 pias., commended; MÉTROPOLE (Pl. B, C, 3), Hâret Zogheb, pens. 50–60 pias., well spoken of; HÔT.-PENS. ROSSMORE HOUSE (English), Shâria el-Madabegh 13, pens. 40–50 pias.—HÔT. DES VOYAGEURS (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Nubar Bâsha, pens. 45–50 pias., with good cuisine, patronized by the French; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. C, 2), Shâria Wagh el-Birket, with bodega, pens. 60 pias.; HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel, pens. 40 pias.; HÔT.-PENS. SUISSE, Shâria el-Genaïneh 10 (Pl. C, 3), pens. 33–40 pias.

_On the Island of Gezîreh_ (p. 457): *GHEZIREH PALACE HOTEL, with restaurant, large gardens, daily concerts, etc., open Dec.-April, pens. from 80 pias. (electr. omnibus to station; motor to Shepheard’s and Semiramis Hotels frequently).

_At the Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459): HELIOPOLIS PALACE HOTEL, a new extensive establishment of the first class, on the Metropolitan Line (p. 441), with all modern appliances, a garden, pavilion, etc., open in winter only, pens. 80–150 pias.; *HELIOPOLIS HOUSE, a first-class family-hotel, opposite the former, with a large terrace, restaurant, American bar, and concerts, pens. 40–50 pias.; PENS. BELLE-VUE, with restaurant (déj. 12, D. 16 pias.), pens. 40 pias.

_Near the Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461): *MENA HOUSE HOTEL, with restaurant, swimming-bath, tennis-courts, golf-links, riding-track, etc., open 1st Nov. to 15th May, pens. 60–100 pias.; SPHINX HOTEL, near Kafr el-Haram (p. 463), a village 10 min. to the S.E. of the tramway-station, new, pens. from 10_s._

=Restaurants= at the hotels, with grill-rooms. Also _Santi_, in the Ezbekîyeh Garden, déj. 20, D. 25 pias.; _St. James’s_, Shâria Bûlâk, opposite the Egyptian Telegraph Office; _Restaurant du Nil_, Shâria Elfi Bey, déj. 14, D. 16 pias.; _Hermes_, Shâria Kâmel, opposite the Ezbekîyeh Garden.

=Bars & Cafés.= _New Bar_, Place de l’Opéra; _Splendid Bar_, Shâria Kâmel; _Bar High Life_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket 42.—European style, but not for ladies: _Sphinx Bar_, Shâria Bûlâk, with grill-room; _Café Egyptien_, opposite Shepheard’s Hotel, with female orchestra; _Eldorado_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket.—The Arabian cafés (_kahwa’s_) are small and dirty.

=Confectioners.= _Lehrenkrauss_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34, with tearooms; _Sault_, _Groppé_, both Shâria el-Manâkh.

=Beer.= _Restaurant Falck_, Shâria el-Mahdi (Pl. B, C, 2, 3); _Bavaria_, Mîdân Kantaret ed-Dikkeh (Pl. B, 2), good restaurant (déj. 12, D. 15 pias.); _Kemmler_, in the street on the N. side of the Crédit Lyonnais (p. 442); _Flasch_, near the Ezbekîyeh Garden.

=Tramways= (fare 1 or ½ pias. unless otherwise stated; separate compartment for women). The following are the chief lines: 1. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) to Place de l’Opéra (Pl. C, 3), Shâria Bûlâk (Pl. B, A, 3), Kasr en-Nîl (Egyptian Museum), Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 7), Rôda, Gîzeh Village, and the Pyramids (Mena House, see above), every 30 (aftern. every 20) min.; fare 4 or 2 pias.—2. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ to Bâb el-Khalk (Pl. D, 4; Arab Museum), Shâria Khalîg el-Masri, Place Seiyideh Zeinab (Pl. C, 6), Shâria Mawardi, and the _Abattoirs_ (beyond Pl. B, C, 7), every 7½ min.—3. From the _Mîdân el-Khaznedâr_ (Pl. C, 3) to Kasr en-Nîl, Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 7), Gezîret Rôda (p. 461), Pont Abbâs II., and the _Village of Gîzeh_ (p. 461), every 10 min.; fare 2 or 1 pias.—4. From the _Mîdân el-Khaznedâr_ to Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4), Mîdân Ismaîlîyeh (Pl. A, 4, 5; for the Great Nile Bridge and Egyptian Museum), Shâria Kasr el-Aïni, Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7), and _Old Cairo_, every 6½ min.—5. From _Kasr en-Nîl_ (Gezîreh, p. 457) to Zoological Garden and _Village of Gîzeh_, every 10 min.—6. From _Bûlâk_ (p. 454) to Shâria Abou el-Ela (Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, Atabet el-Khadra (see above), Bâb el-Khalk (see above), and the _Citadel_ (Place Rumeileh; Pl. E, 6), every 3 min.—7. From _Zabtîyeh_ (Shubra), to Central Station (Pl. B, 1), Shâria Clot Bey, Atabet el-Khadra, Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4), and _Mîdân Nasrîyeh_ (Pl. B, 5), every 3 min.—8. From _Central Station_ (Pl. B, 1) to Shâria Abbâs (Pl. B, A, 2, 3), Shâria Mariette Bâsha (Pl. A, 4; Egyptian Museum), Kasr en-Nîl, _Mîdân el-Azhâr_ (Pl. B, 4; Gare de Bâb el-Lûk), every 9 min.—9. From _Ghamra_ (to the N. of Pl. D, 1) to Mîdân ez-Zâhir (Pl. D, E, 1), Bâb esh-Sharîyeh (Pl. D, 2), Muski, Bâb el-Khalk, and thence as No. 2, every 6 min.—10. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) viâ the Place de l’Opéra, Shâria Bûlâk, Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn (Pl. B, 3, 2), Bâb el-Hadîd (Pl. B, 1), and Abbâsîyeh to the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), every 10 min.; in ca. 50 min.; fare 1½ or 1 pias.

=Electric Railway= (‘Métropolitain’) from the _Pont Limûn Station_ (Pl. B, 1) every 10 min. (from 6.30 a.m. till 12 p.m.) to the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), in 10 min.; fares 1st cl. 2, 2nd cl. 1 pias.

=Steam Ferries= between Bûlâk (Shâria Abou el-Ela; to the W. of Pl. A, 3; corresponding with tramway No. 6) and Gezîreh (p. 457), and between Old Cairo (p. 460; corresponding with tramway No. 4) and the village of Gîzeh (p. 461).—_Local Steamers_ from the Bûlâk Bridge (Pl. A, 4) to Bûlâk.

=Cabs= (comp. p. 431), open victorias with two horses, abound in the European quarters and tourist-resorts. Closed cabs (landaus) usually have to be ordered, and the fares are higher. The TARIFF (in cab) is for 1–3 pers. (each addit. pers. 2, trunk 1 pias.) as follows:

1. DRIVE within a radius of 4 kil. (2½ M.) from the Administration Building (Gouvernorat; Pl. D, 4), for 1 kil. 3, each addit. kil. 2 pias.; if dismissed outside the zone named, 2 pias. more per kil.; waiting, up to ¼ hr., 2 pias.

2. BY TIME (Arab, bis-sâa), in town 1 hr. 10, each addit. ¼ hr. 2 pias.; per day (12 hrs.) 70 pias.

3. LONGER DRIVES. To the Citadel 10, and back 20 pias. (incl. stay of 1 hr.); to Old Cairo 12 or 18 pias. (halt of 1 hr.); to the Pyramids 50 or 80 pias. (halt of 3 hrs.); to the Heliopolis Oasis 30 or 50 pias. (halt of 2 hrs.).

A gratuity (bakshîsh) of 5–10 per cent over the fare is usually given. Complaints, with the number of the cab and other details, should be lodged at the police-office (p. 442). During the season the demands of the cabmen are often exorbitant, but the mere mention of the dreaded word ‘karakól’ (prison) generally brings them to reason.

=Motor Cabs= (with taximeter): 3½ pias. for the first 1200 mètres (¾ M.), 1 pias. each addit. 400 mètres (¼ M.), waiting 1 pias. for each 5 min. In addition to these fares a surtax must be paid for each drive as follows: from or to the Mena House (Pyramids) 10 pias., Heliopolis 8 pias., Citadel, Gîzeh 5 pias., Gezîreh 3 pias.

=Donkeys= (Arabic _homâr_; per hour about 2, day 12 pias.) abound. They are pleasant on bridle-paths free from dust. The donkey-boys (_hammâr_) often lash the animals into a gallop, but this should be checked. _Ala mahlak_ means ‘slow’, _erbût_ or the English _stop_ ‘halt’. The bakshish should be of course proportioned to the donkey-boy’s behaviour.

=Post Office= (Pl. C, 3; p. 446), corner of Shâria Tâhir and Shâria el-Baidak. The outside-offices, for the sale of stamps only, are open from 7.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. (inland letter ½, in postal union 1 pias.; post-cards 3 and 4 mill.). The offices inside are open from 9 to 6.30, with a short break at 12.30. Lists of the over-sea mails are exhibited in the vestibule. Notice of the arrival of registered letters is sent to the addressee, who obtains delivery by producing the notice, stamped by the hotel or signed by some well-known person. Branch-offices at Shepheard’s, the Continental, Ghezireh Palace, and Mena House. Letter-boxes at all the hotels.

=Telegraph Office.= _Eastern Telegraph Co._ (Pl. B, 3), corner of Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn and Shâria el-Manâkh. _Egyptian_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, corner of Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn.—Branches at Shepheard’s, the Crédit Lyonnais, and Ghezireh Palace.

=Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN, Shâria Gâmia esh-Sherkes (Pl. B, 4): consul-general and plenipotentiary, _Sir Arthur Hardinge_; consul, _A. D. Alban_; vice-consul _R. M. Graves_.—UNITED STATES, Kasr ed-Dubara: consul-general and plenipotentiary, _P. A. Jay_; vice-consul, _L. Belrose_. Also French, German, Austrian, Italian, etc.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel 6; _Lubin_, Shâria Bûlâk 5; _F. C. Clark_, near Shepheard’s; _Hamburg-American Line_, Hôt. Continental (Pl. B, C, 3); _D. E. Munari_, Shâria Kâmel 5.

=Steamboat Offices.= _Khedivial Mail_, _White Star_, _Union Castle_, _Thos. Cook & Son_ (see p. 441); _Messageries Maritimes_, Shâria el-Maghrâbi 10; _Società Nazionale_, Figari, Shâria el-Maghrâbi 33; _Austrian Lloyd_, Heller, same street, No. 2; _North German Lloyd_, _Rumanian State Maritime Service_, Sterzing, Place de l’Opéra 3; _German East African Line_, Fix & David, Shâria Mansûr Bâsha; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Alchewsky, Shâria el-Manâkh 6.—Notices of departure also posted in the hotels.

=Police Office= (Pl. D, 4; p. 450; _Zabtîyeh_). About 300 officials, incl. a few Europeans, chiefly Italians, obliging to strangers and well organized. Complaints against the police must be lodged at the traveller’s consulate.

=Banks.= _Crédit Lyonnais_ (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Bosta; _Ottoman_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn 13; _Bank of Egypt_ (Pl. B, 3, 4), Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 17; _Anglo-Egyptian_, Shâria el-Manâkh; _National Bank of Egypt_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 35; _Deutsche Orientbank_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Manâkh 23; _Banque d’Athènes_.

=Shops.= BOOKSELLERS. _Diemer_, at Shepheard’s Hotel; _British Library_, opposite the Savoy.—PHOTOGRAPHS, at _Diemer’s_; also sold by _Dittrich_, Shâria Elfi Bey; _Paul_, Shâria el-Manâkh 26.—EMBROIDERY, CARPETS, and various ORIENTAL ARTICLES (mostly made in Europe): _Chellaram_, Hôt. Continental; _Madjar_, at Shepheard’s; _Spartali_, opposite the Savoy; _J. Cohen_, _Valliram Bros._, and other dealers in the Khân el-Khalîli (p. 446).—ARABIAN WOODWORK. _Parvis_, next to Shepheard’s (large warehouse near the entrance to the Muski, p. 446; to the left in the court); _Haloun_, Sikket el-Gedîdeh (Pl. D, 3); _Furino_, Shâria Suleimân Bâsha.—ANTIQUITIES (genuine) at the Egyptian Museum (p. 455).

=Physicians= (addresses obtainable at the hotels, at Diemer’s, or at the chemists’). _Dr. Keatinge_ (head of the Kasr el-Aïni school of medicine), _Dr. Murison_ (of Victoria Hospital), _Dr. Milton_, _Dr. Phillips_, _Dr. Tribe_, _Dr. Madden_, and _Dr. Richards_, all English; _Dr. Keichline_, American.

=Chemists.= _Pharmacie Anglo-Américaine_, Place de l’Opéra; _Pharm. Coscarelli_, Shâria Abdîn 17; _Pharm. Nardi_, in the Muski; _Anglo-German Dispensary_, Shâria el-Bawaki 11; _Savoy Pharmacy_ (_Norton & Co._), Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34; _Stephenson & Co._, Shâria el Manâkh 15.

=Theatres.= _Khedivial Opera_ (Pl. C, 3; p. 446; French or Italian), boxes dear; evening dress compulsory; office open 8–12 and 2–5.—_Théâtre Abbas_ (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Kantaret ed-Dikkeh, Ital. operas and Fr. operettas.—_Théâtre Printania_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Elfi Bey.—_Ex-Verdi_, Shâria Bâb el-Bahari 5, Arabian and Greek.—_Nouveautés_, Shâria Nubar Bâsha 9; _Jardin de Paris_, Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn; at both varieties.—_Summer Theatre_, mostly Italian pieces, in the _Ezbekîyeh Garden_ (p. 445).—EVENING CONCERTS by English military bands on Tues. and Thurs. in the Ezbekîyeh Garden (p. 445).

=Churches.= _Church of England Services_ at _All Saints Church_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Bûlâk (services at 8 and 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.), and at _St. Mary’s_ (Pl. A, 5), Shâria Kasr el-Aïni.—_Church of Scotland_ (_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, to the S. of the Bridge of Abu’l Eileh.—_American Mission_ (Pl. B, C, 3), opposite Shepheard’s.—_Rom. Cath._ (_L’Assomption_; Pl. D, 3), Shâria el-Banadkiah 2, in the Muski; _St. Joseph’s_, in the Ismaîlîyeh quarter (Pl. A, B, 4).—_Orthodox Greek_ (_St. Nicholas_; Pl. D, 2, 3), in the Hamzâwî (p. 447).—_Coptic Cath._ (Pl. D, 3) and _Coptic Orthodox_ (Pl. C, 2).—_New Synagogue_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Maghrâbi, and others.

=Collections= (closed on Frid. and Mohammedan festivals): _Arab Museum_ (p. 450), 9 to 4.30 (May-Oct. 8–1), adm. 5 (in summer 1) pias.—_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455), 9 to 4.30 (May-Sept. 8.30 to 1), adm. 5 (in summer 1) pias.—_Khedivial Library_ (p. 451), exhibition-room 9–4, free.

Visitors are admitted to most of the _Mosques_ (p. xxv) and to the _Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) daily except Frid. and at the hour of noonday prayer. Ticket (2 pias.) at the entrance. Fee of ½–1 pias. to the attendant who supplies slippers.

THREE DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Muski_ (p. 446), _Market Quarter_ (p. 446), *_Gâmia el-Azhar_ (p. 447), _Muristân Kâlaûn_ (p. 448), *_Gâmia el-Muaiyad_ (p. 450), _Bâb Zuweileh_ (p. 450); afternoon, _Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) or _Gezîreh_ (p. 457) or _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459).—2nd. Forenoon, _Arab Museum_ (p. 450; closed Frid.), _Medreseh Kâït Bey_ (p. 451), *_Gâmia Ibn Tulûn_ (p. 451); afternoon, *_Gâmia Sultân Hasan_ (p. 452), _Citadel_ (p. 453).—3rd. Forenoon, *_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455; closed Frid.); afternoon, *_Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461).—Intercourse with natives, see p. xxv.—Guides, touts, and beggars should be summarily shaken off.

_Cairo_, Arabic _El-Kâhira_ or _Masr el-Kâhira_, or simply _Masr_ or _Misr_ (after the old Semitic name of Egypt), lies in 30° 4′ N. lat. and 31° 17′ E. long., on the right bank of the Nile, about 12½ M. to the S. of the ‘cow’s belly’, where the river divides into the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418).—On the E. side of the city, which covers an area of about 11 sq. M., rise the reddish rocky slopes of the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 454; about 650 ft.), marking the beginning of the Arabian desert.

Cairo, the largest city in Africa and in the whole of the Arabian world, is the residence of the Khedive and of all the chief authorities. The population is estimated at 630,000, including 50,000 Europeans, chiefly Greeks and Italians. The great majority of the citizens are Egypto-Arabian, Fellah (peasant) settlers, Christian Copts (also nearly pure descendants of the ancient Egyptians), Nubians, Turks, Armenians, and (about 6000) Jews; then negroes of many different tribes, Berbers and Arabs from the N. African seaboard, Bedouins (nomadic Arabs), Syrians, Persians, Indians. The street scenes in the older quarters are very curious and picturesque.