Part 11

POST OFFICE (Correos; Pl. 1, B 4), Plaza de Santa Ana (best hours 12–4). TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Telégrafo; Pl. 5, A, 2), Calle de Domingo J. Navarro 36.

THEATRE (Pl. C, 3), at the month of the Barranco Guiniguada.—MUSIC in the Alameda de Colón.

BANKERS. _Miller & Co._, Muelle de Santa Catalina, in Puerto de la Luz; _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 68, and others.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Miller & Co._ (see above), for the Union Castle, the Austro-Americana, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Bucknall, and other lines; _Grand Canary Coaling Co._, for the Peninsular & Oriental Co. and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; _Behrens_, at Puerto de la Luz, to the N. of the Muelle de Santa Catalina, for the German East African, Woermann, and Hamburg-American Lines; _Elder, Dempster, & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 93, for the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; _M. Curbelo & Co._, Calle de Muro, for the Compañía Trasatlántica.

CARRIAGES (stands in the Plaza de Cairasco, in the Plaza de San Bernardo, and near the theatre). Drive in the town for 1–3 pers. 1½p., for 4 pers. 2 p.; per hour 2½ (or for a tartana or dog-cart 2) p.; to Puerto de la Luz 5 (tartana 2) p.; to the Monte, Telde, or Arucas 15 (tartana 12½) p.; to Atalaya, San Mateo, or Teror 20 (tartana 15) p.

ENGLISH CHURCH, near the Hôt. Métropole, on the road to Puerto de la Luz (comp. Plan, p. 46).—ENGLISH CLUB at Puerto de la Luz.

_Las Palmas_, a town of 28,600 inhab., of a S. Spanish type like Santa Cruz (comp. p. 35), the seat of the bishop of Gran Canaria, situated in 28° 6′ N. lat. and 15° 12′ W. long., is the busiest and wealthiest town in the whole archipelago. The houses of the well-to-do townspeople, built of pale-grey tufa or blue lava-basalt, often enclose beautiful patios filled with plants, which are watered by means of pipes conducted from the roofs. On the hills at the back of the town, which have been fortified since the Spanish and American war, are sprinkled many gaily painted country-houses.

Las Palmas is divided into two parts (_barrios_) by the _Barranco de Guiniguada_: on the _N. Triana_, and on the _S. Vegueta_.

The main street of TRIANA, with its numerous shops, in line with the road from Puerto de la Luz, is called Calle Mayor de Triana (Pl. B, C, 1–3). Beyond the _Baranquillo de Mata_ it intersects the Plaza San Telmo (Pl. B, 1), in which rises the _Gobierno Militar_ (Pl. 2; B, 1).

The Paseo de Bravo Murillo (Pl. B, A, 1) ascends the gorge to the right to the Carretera del Norte (p. 47). On the left is the _Harbour_ (Pl. B, C, 1), with the pier (Muelle), where the sea-breezes may be enjoyed in hot weather.

From the Calle Mayor de Triana, farther on, the Calle Constantino diverges to the right to the Plaza de San Bernardo (Pl. A, B, 2), a square planted with Indian laurels. Near the S. end of the street the Calle del General Bravo leads to the Alameda de Colón (Pl. B, 3), which is embellished with a bust of Columbus and fine royal and date palms (p. 30). In this square rise the _Iglesia de San Francisco_ (1689) and the _Casino_.

The central point of VEGUETA is the Plaza de Santa Ana (Pl. B, 4), where the guides lie in wait for strangers. The bronze dogs at the lower end of the plaza, as well as those in the arms of the town, recall the tradition that Juba II. (p. 31) carried away some dogs (_canes_) from the island, and that their name is derived thence.

The CATHEDRAL (Pl. B, C, 4; _San Christóbal_), founded in 1497 and restored in 1781, with its heavy façade flanked with towers 184 ft. high, contains, in the first chapel of the left aisle, the tombstone of the native poet Bart. Cairasco de Figueroa (1540–1610), and in the crypt the tomb of Viera y Clavijo (1731–1802), the historian of the Canaries.

The TOWN HALL (Palacio Municipal; Pl. B, 4), built in 1842, contains, on the third floor, the _Museo Canario_, consisting of natural history collections and of curiosities from the Guanche caverns of the Isleta (p. 43) and other places (implements, weapons, and tools in basalt, obsidian, horn, wood, and clay, leather-work, and mummies). Adm. free, daily 11–3.

For a prolonged stay the _Monte_ is preferable to Las Palmas. It is reached by the Carretera del Centro (comp. Pl. A, 5), the best road in the island. Ascending from the suburb of San Roque, and soon affording splendid views, the road at first follows the Barranco de Guiniguada (p. 45), and then winds up the slopes of the _Pico del Viento_ (820 ft.).

3¾ M. _Tafira_ (1230 ft.; Hotel Victoria; James’s Boarding House), the first village on the *=Monte=, a colony of villas and a favourite winter resort of the English.

8 M. _Santa Brígida_ (1572 ft.; Hot. Santa Brígida, in a fine open situation with a beautiful park, pens. from 10_s._ 6_d._; Quiney’s Bella Vista, ½ M. below the other, pens. 8–10_s._), a finely situated village with 500 inhabitants.

The road, still unfinished, goes on to Telde (p. 47), passing the curious cave-village of _Atalaya_ (1720 ft.), which rises in terraces on the hill-side. The tufa walls of the cave-dwellings are hung with mats. The industry of the place is the manufacture of pottery, notably the porous water-jars so common in N. Africa.

The ascent of the *_Pico de Vandama_ (1838 ft.) may be made from Atalaya or direct from Santa Brígida (there and back 2 hrs.; mule 3 p.). This hill, overgrown with pines and tree-like broom, overlooks the grand mountain landscape of the E. coast. Very striking is the view of the *_Caldera de Vandama_, a huge crater-basin of about 550 yds. in diameter and 683 ft. in depth. Its floor is planted with vines and cereals, and it is worth while to ride down into it.

The Carretera del Centro leads, beyond the bifurcation for Atalaya, to (13 M.) the little town of =San Mateo= (2575 ft.; fair inn), superbly situated among the mountains. Rough mule-tracks lead thence to the _Pico de las Nieves_ (6400 ft.), to the village of _Tejeda_ (3160 ft.) in the *_Barranco de Tejeda_ (p. 43), and to the cave-village of _Artenara_.

Scarcely less attractive than the Monte road is the *Carretera del Sur, which leads from Las Palmas, at first passing the cemeteries, then skirting the rocks of the E. coast, and at length turning inland, piercing the lava-rock by a tunnel, to Ginámar and (8 M.) =Telde= (394 ft.; inn; pop. 4000), a picturesque little town amidst beautiful orange-groves.

The Carretera del Norte, crossing the _Barranco de San Lorenzo_ and the road from Puerto de la Luz (p. 43) at _Tamaraceite_, and farther on, beyond a long tunnel, the _Barranco de Tenoya_ above the village of that name, leads to (10 M.) _Arucas_ (1017 ft.; two inns), an industrial little town of 2900 inhab., at the foot of the _Montaña de Arucas_, a hill affording fine views. The sugar-cane is cultivated in the vicinity.

A by-road diverges from this carretera, beyond the Barranco de San Lorenzo, to (12½ M.) _Teror_ (1936 ft.; dirty inn), a little town with the famous pilgrimage-church of the Virgen del Pino (16th cent.).

* * * * *

The island of =Palma=, or _La Palma_, in the extreme N.W. of the archipelago, 28½ M. long and 17 M. broad, lying about 16½ M. to the W. of Teneriffe, is remarkable for its fine scenery and superb forests, but is as yet rarely visited by tourists. The famous _Caldera_, the largest and deepest of all the crater-basins in the islands, opens towards the W. in the huge _Barranco de las Angustias_, while many smaller gorges render the N. coast in particular very difficult of access. The whole of the S. part of the island is of recent volcanic origin and therefore poorly watered. The population (42,000, in an area of 280 sq. M.) is confined to the S.E. margin of the island and the middle of the W. slopes Many of the natives emigrate, especially to Cuba.

Starting from Santa Cruz de Tenerife (p. 33) the steamer rounds the _Anaga Mts._, with the lighthouse already named (p. 33), and steers to the W. from the _Punta del Hidalgo_ (p. 37) to Palma. The lighthouse on the _Punta de Teno_ (23 ft.), the N.W. point of Teneriffe, remains visible for some time. The bold coast of Palma presents a grand appearance as we approach.

=Santa Cruz de la Palma.=—HOTELS. _Hot. Miramar_; _Hot. Español_; _Hot. Internacional_; _Fonda Verbena_, pens. 4–5 p.—CARRIAGE to Los Llanos 45 p. (also motor-omnibus).—MULE per day 5–6, to Los Llanos 7½ p.

_Santa Cruz de la Palma_, the only considerable port (5700 inhab.) in the island, lies on the E. coast, on an open bay which is much exposed to sand-drifts. The houses rise in terraces on the steep hill-side, overtopped by tall Canary palms. The chief export is tobacco, which is little inferior to that of Havana. Cigar-factory of J. Cabrera Martín.

The main street, in which rises the _Town Hall_ (Ayuntamiento) of 1563, leads to a picturesque triangular plaza with the church of _San Salvador_ and several handsome houses. Close by is the small _Museum_ (Museo de Historia Natural y Etnográfico). A beautiful palm-avenue leads through the upper part of the town.

EXCURSIONS. To the N.W. we may ascend through the _Barranco de la Madera_, with its cave-dwellings (Cuevas de los Guanches) to the loftily situated pilgrimage-church of the _Virgen de las Nieves_ (16th cent.); thence either to the _Montaña de Tagoje_ (about 3300 ft.; with grand view of the E. coast, of Gomera and Teneriffe), or to the _Pico del Cedro_ (7471 ft.) on the E. margin of the _Caldera_ (see below), round which we may ride to the _Roque de los Muchachos_ (7693 ft.) on the N. side.—To the S.W., following the old bridle-path which cuts off the windings of the road, we may walk or ride to (1 hr.) _Buena Vista_ (about 660 ft.), whence a rough mule-track ascends to the (2 hrs.) _Cumbre Nueva_ (4593 ft.), the chief mountain-pass in the island, where we have a grand *View of the abrupt rocks and the pine-woods of the central chain, of the fertile plains to the W., and of the distant Peak of Teneriffe. Then we proceed through pine-forest, past the venerable ‘Pino de la Virgen’, to _El Paso_ (2060 ft.; inn), whence we may ascend the _Cumbrecita_ (4445 ft.) and the _Idafe_, the sacred mount of the Guanches, on the S. margin of the Caldera. Finally we descend to the (3 hrs.) little town of _Los Llanos_ (1000 ft.; poor inn, bargaining advisable). From Los Llanos it takes a day (7–8 hrs., there and back) to visit the *=Caldera=, a vast basin, nearly 5900 ft. deep and 3–4½ M. in diameter, situated in the heart of the island and rarely quite cloudless. A tedious ride up the _Barranco de las Angustias_ brings us to the farm-building of _Tenera_ (3642 ft.), whence we look down on the floor of the Caldera, which is partly clothed with pines. The best way to return from Los Llanos to Santa Cruz is to drive (34½ M.) by the road passing _Las Manchas_, _Fuencaliente_ (2297 ft.), _Mazo_ (1312 ft.), and _Breña Baja_; or we may ride across the _Cumbre Vieja_ (6660 ft.), the pass between Las Manchas and the _Barranco Aduares_.

III. ANDALUSIA.[5]

Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Preliminary Notes 49 5. Gibraltar 52 6. From Gibraltar to Seville 56 a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera 56 b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz 57 7. Seville 59 a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the Cathedral, 61.—b. The Central and Eastern Quarters (Casa del Ayuntamiento, Casa de Pilatos, University), 65.—c. The Western and South-Western Quarters (Museo Provincial, Hospital de la Caridad, Public Gardens), 66. 8. From Seville to Cordova 68 9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada 72 10. Granada 73 a. The Lower Town, 75.—b. Darro Valley and Albaicín, 78.—c. The Alhambra, 79.—d. The Generalife, 87. 11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga 88

_Andalusia_, the southmost region of Spain, is geologically of somewhat recent origin. In the tertiary period the sea still washed the southern shores of the Iberian tableland, until a pressure acting in a direction from S. to N. gradually lifted up a new coast in long parallel folds, while the Mediterranean forced a new passage to the ocean through the Straits of Gibraltar (comp. p. xxix). Latest of all appeared the Guadalquivir Bay, the highest point of whose coast scarcely rises 490 ft. above the sea. The coast-hills, which have their counterpart in the Rîf Mts. on the African side (p. 93), stretch in the main from E. to W., descending abruptly to the sea. Transverse fissures, in which volcanic activity is still indicated by frequent earthquakes, divide the coast into several different chains, which culminate in the _Sierra Nevada_ (11,421 ft.; ‘snow-mountain’), the highest peak in Spain. The W. chain (_Serranía de Ronda_) trends round to the N. In contrast to the _Andalucía Alta_, the folded region facing the Mediterranean, the _Andalucía Baja_, the basin of the Guadalquivir, opens towards the Atlantic. The _Guadalquivir_ (Arabic _Wâd al-Kebîr_, ‘the great river’), the _Bætis_ of antiquity, rises indeed in the Sierra de Cazorla, apart from the coast-mountains, but receives its more copious affluents, particularly the _Guadiana Menor_, from the Sierra Nevada. After a wild career it enters the plain beyond Montoro, becomes navigable at Cordova, and even carries sea-going vessels at Seville.

Footnote 5:

Fuller details in _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.

The HISTORY of the country dates from hoar antiquity. It was the _Tarshish_ of the Bible, being already named in the generations of Noah (Gen. x. 4), and was called by the Greeks _Tartessós_, the home of precious metals, especially of silver, the source of the wealth of Tyre. Here, too, are the rich copper mines of _Rio Tinto_ and _Tharsis_, which were already worked in the ancient Iberian age. The Mediterranean peoples contented themselves with visiting the harbours established in the bays of the coast, leaving it to the natives to bring the produce of the interior down to them across the mountains or by the river Bætis. Thus arose, probably even before the foundation of Cadiz, the Phœnician towns of _Málaca_ (Málaga) and _Kalpe_ (Gibraltar), besides other small settlements. About 1100 B.C. _Gadîr_ or _Gades_, the westmost of these, appears in history, and afterwards became dependent on Carthage. The art of writing, the first and most potent aid to commerce, was propagated from Gades, which thereby laid the foundation of the higher civilization of the peninsula. Summoned to their aid by the Gaditanians, the Carthaginians, who had already gained possession of the Balearic Islands, invaded Iberia. After the Punic Wars (p. 345) came the domination of the Romans, who in 27 A.D. gave the whole of S. Spain the name of _Provincia Baetica_. On the break-up of the Roman Empire Andalusia was overrun by the Vandals (p. 322), the Suevi, and the Visigoths. At length the Arabs and the Berbers of Morocco obtained a footing here, after they had crossed the Straits of Gibraltar under Târik (p. 54). By them this region, and afterwards the whole peninsula which they conquered, were named _El-Andalûs_ (‘land of the West’). Down to the 13th cent. the Moors occupied Andalusia, and it was not till 1492 that Granada was captured by Ferdinand V., the Catholic.

These vicissitudes in the country’s history are still reflected in its present INHABITANTS. Half African, half European, like the Maltese, the Sicilians, and the Sardinians, the Andalusians have inherited something of the character, the customs, and the language of all the nations that once held sway in this region. To this day the Andalusian dialect swarms with Arabic words; almost all the terms used in agriculture and irrigation are Arabic. The popular dances and music are of Oriental origin. To their Oriental ancestry the Andalusian (_Andaluz_, _Andaluza_) also owes his exuberant imagination. There can be no greater contrast than that which the calm and proud Old-Castilian presents to the volatile and excitable Andalusian, who is apt to substitute fancy for fact, who sees everything as through a magnifying glass, and who is therefore much given to exaggeration (_fanfarronadas_). On the other hand nothing can be more charming than the bearing of an Andalusian ‘maja’, who is admired rather for her wit, her grace, and her power of repartee than for her beauty. The _Sal Andaluza_ is as proverbial as the Attic ‘salt’ of the ancients.

Andalusia can boast of possessing, not only some of the finest and most interesting Moorish BUILDINGS in Spain, such as the mosque at Cordova, the Giralda and Alhambra at Granada, but also several of the grandest monuments of the ‘reconquista’ period. Among these are the Alcázar of Seville, one of the most brilliant creations of the so-called Mudejar, or Moorish-Christian style, and the grand cathedrals of Seville and Granada in the Gothic and ‘plateresque’, or Spanish early-Renaissance, styles.—Nor is the SCENERY of this region less attractive. Andalusia may be said to stand in the same relation to Spain as Sicily to Italy, or as Provence to the rest of France. It combines all that the rest of the peninsula possesses locally or partially. To the E. are vast plateaux and steppes, frozen in winter and parched in summer; to the S. rise snow-clad mountains; on the S.W. are the sand-dunes of the Atlantic coast; olive-groves thrive on the Guadalquivir; and on the shores of the Mediterranean are well-watered vegas where the cotton-plant, the banana, and the sugar-cane flourish.

MEDITERRANEAN TRAVELLERS will hardly have time for more than a circular tour from Gibraltar to Tangier, Cadiz, Seville, Cordova, Granada, and back to Gibraltar, or, in unfavourable weather, to Algeciras, Bobadilla, and Seville only. The Spanish railways (see the _Guía general de Ferrocarriles_; 1 p., smaller edition 75 c.) are far inferior to the British or to the French, and their speed is very low. The natives travel mostly in the second or third class, but the carriages cannot be recommended. The first class often has a _berlina_, or coupé-carriage with four seats, which affords an unimpeded view (higher fare).

In the larger towns one may book luggage (_facturar el equipaje_) 1–2 hrs. before the departure of the train, at the _despacho central_, or town-office. Booking it at the station itself is a very slow process. As in France luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) is free. The ticket for it is called a _talón_ or _boletín de equipaje_. The porter (_mozo_), often most importunate, receives 30–50 c. or more.

Andalusia possesses few first-class hotels. The better second-class inns are similar to the French and Italian. Even for a stay of a single day it is usual to pay an inclusive charge for bed and board (_pupilaje_, from 6 to 20 p.). Déjeuner or lunch (11–1 o’clock) is called _almuerzo_; dinner, _comida_ (at or after 7); table-wine, _vino común_ or _de mesa_. No allowance is made for meals omitted. An extra charge is often made for breakfast (coffee, etc.), which Spanish travellers usually take in their own rooms. Notice of departure should be given as early as possible, lest a whole additional day be charged for. The usual fee to the servants (_camarero_, waiter; _muchacha_, chamber-maid; _mozo_, boots), who are apt to be lazy and inattentive, is 1 p. per day, divided among them, or more in proportion for families.

The beer-houses are called _cervecerías_. The cafés are usually open in the afternoon and evening only. _Café con leche_ is coffee with milk; _café solo_ is without milk. Newspapers (_periódicos_) are not provided by the cafés. Tobacco and cigars are a government monopoly; the shop is called _estanco_; there are also special shops for the better Havana cigars.

The post-offices (_correo_), even in the larger towns, are often open for a few hours only. The hours for obtaining poste-restante (_cartas en lista_) or registered letters (_cartas certificadas_) are often changed; the addressee must show his visiting-card (_tarjeta_) at the office. Stamps (_sellos de correo_; for the town 10, country 15, abroad 25 c.) and post-cards (_tarjetas postales_, 10 c.) are obtainable at the tobacco-shops only. Telegrams (_telegramas_) must be prepaid with special stamps (_sellos de telégrafos_), for the sale of which there are separate offices.

The Spanish _peseta_ (p.), divided into 100 _centimos_ (c.), is scarcely equal to the franc in value. The only valid banknotes are those of the Madrid _Banco de España_. The 5 p. piece is popularly called a _duro_; the 10 c. and 5 c. copper coins are often termed _perro grande_ and _perro chico_ (‘big and little dog’) in jocular allusion to the lions in the coat-of-arms. Change should be examined carefully, as base coin is common.—At Gibraltar the currency is English, but Spanish money is received, except at the post and telegraph office.

5. Gibraltar.

=Arrival.= The ocean-going steamers land and embark their passengers in their own steam-tenders at any time before sunset at the Commercial Pier (fare for each pers. 1_s._ either way). The tariff for small boats is 1_s._ 6_d._ for a row in the harbour, or to or from the steamboats, for 1–2 pers., and 1_s._ for each addit. person; luggage up to 56 lbs. free; excess, 6_d._ per 56 lbs.; or a bargain may be made (l–2_s._ for passenger, incl. luggage). In bad weather the tariff is raised, in accordance with the signals (red, blue, bluish-white), to one-third more, or double, or triple fare. The porters are notorious for their extortionate demands. The charge for conveying luggage to the hotel should be fixed beforehand.—The _Custom House Examination_ at the harbour-gate is confined to tobacco, spirits, and weapons. Foreigners require a permit from the _Police Office_ (Pl. 2) to spend the day on shore, and if they intend to spend the night the permit must be renewed by their landlord. Between 5.30 and 8.15, according to the season, a cannon-shot (gun-fire) announces the closing of the Land Port (p. 55). The other gates remain open till 11.

=Hotels= (the inclusive charge for the day should be ascertained). HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. a), Cathedral Square, quiet and pleasant; GRAND HOTEL (Pl. b) and HÔT. CECIL (Pl. c), both in Waterport St.; these three have high charges, from 10–12_s._ a day and upwards; HÔT. PARIS (Pl. f), opposite the post-office, new, pens. 8–15 fr.—Plainer: HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. d), Turnbull’s Lane; HÔT. VICTORIA, Church St., café-restaur.; NUEVO HOT. ESPAÑOL (Pl. e), Irish Town, pens. 8_s._, tolerable.—The drinking-water (rain-water from cisterns) is not good.—CAFÉS. _Universal_, Church St.; also at the _Assembly Rooms_ (p. 53).

=Cabs= (stands at Waterport Gate, Commercial Sq., and Cathedral Sq.). _Drive_ for 1–2 pers. in the lower town, between Waterport Gate and Alameda, 6_d._; in the upper quarters (Governor’s St.) 9_d._; to Catalan Bay 1_s._ 3_d._; to the lighthouse 1_s._ 4_d._; to Governor’s Cottage 1_s._ 9_d._—_Per hour_, for 1–2 pers., 1_s._ 6_d._; for each addit. ½ hr. 6_d._; 3_d._ extra for each addit. pers., or 5_d._ extra for the longer drives (lighthouse, Governor’s Cottage, etc.).—Each trunk 2_d._—The tariff is in force only from daybreak till midnight. A bargain should be made beforehand.