Part 62

*_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.

From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of _Knossos_, the ancient capital of the island. The *_King’s Palace_, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period.

The steamer next crosses the _Cretan Sea_, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the _Cyclades_ (p. 492): _Anaphe_ (1349 ft.) and _Santorin_ or _Thira_ (1857 ft.), the ancient _Thera_. Close to _Cape Oia_ (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. 492), are seen the ruins of _Thera_, the ancient capital.

Next, on the left, we sight the island of _Iós_ or _Niós_ (2408 ft.). We then pass through the strait between _Amorgós_ (1233 ft.; lighthouse), the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group of _Eremonisia_, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side.

The high mountains of _Naxos_ (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades, remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of _Donusa_ (1600 ft.). The islands of _Delos_, once the religious and economic centre of the Cyclades, and _Mykonos_ (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far distance in very clear weather.

The ship presently nears the W. coast of _Nikaria_ (p. 492), an island belonging to the _S. Sporades_ (p. 490), and then (as do also the steamers from the Levant) passes through the _Strait of Chios_ (p. 492) and across the _Gulf of Smyrna_ (comp. p. 530).

_Smyrna_, and thence to _Constantinople_, see pp. 530, 533–536.

67. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said.

1174 or 1278 M. STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at Alexandria, p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437). =1.= _North German Lloyd_: (a) from (Marseilles) Naples to Alexandria, in Jan.-April, on Frid. at noon (from Marseilles on Wed. aft.) in 4 days; returning from Alexandria Wed. aft. (from Naples Sat.); fares from Naples 240–480 or 140–180 marks (from Marseilles 280–520 or 160–200 marks); (b) E. Asiatic Line. (R. 24), from (Algiers, Genoa) Naples to Port Said every second Frid. night (returning Frid.), in 4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks; (c) Australian Line (R. 21), from (Genoa) Naples to Port Said every fourth Wed. night (returning Frid.), in 3–4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=2.= _German E. African Line_: E. circular tour (RR. 17, 23) from (Marseilles) Naples to Port Said every third Mon. in 4 days; W. circular tour (RR. 4, 17, 23) from Port Said to Naples every third Sat.; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=3.= _Rotterdam Lloyd_, Batavia Line, from Marseilles every second Thurs. direct to Port Said (returning Tues.) in 5 days.—=4.= _Nederland Royal Mail_, Batavia Line, from Genoa direct to Port Said in 5 days.—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean Line, from Marseilles direct to Alexandria (Port Said, Jaffa, Beirut, R. 72), every Thurs. noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 4 days; fare 315 or 240 fr.; return-ticket (‘interchangeable’), available also for the quick boats of the Austrian Lloyd (R. 68), 603½ or 433¼ fr.—=6.= _Società Nazionale_, Line V (Genoa to Alexandria), from (Genoa, Leghorn) Naples on Thurs. aft. to Alexandria (returning Thurs. aft.), in 4 days; fare 252 or 172½ fr.

The great liners of the P. & 0., Orient Royal, Royal Mail, White Star, Bibby, and other British companies are almost exclusively for through-passengers from Gibraltar or Marseilles to Port Said, India, Australia, etc.

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to _Naples_, see RR. 23, 24; from Naples to the _Straits of Messina_, see R. 27.

On the left, beyond Messina, are seen the ruins of _Reggio_ (p. 159), at the foot of the _Aspromonte_, the S. point of Calabria.

Leaving the Straits of Messina, we steer across the _Ionian Sea_, to the E.S.E., in a direct line for Egypt. _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159) remains long in sight. For two days we lose sight of land. The mountains of Crete (p. 415) are visible on the voyage to Alexandria only in perfectly clear weather; but on the voyage to Port Said we pass within a few miles of Crete and near the island of _Gavdos_, Ital. _Gozo_ (1063 ft.; lighthouse), which flanks Crete on the S.W.

On the ALEXANDRIA VOYAGE, nearing land, we overlook the long isthmus of _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), from the sand-hill near _Abusîr_, on the E. shore of the _Arabian Gulf_ (p. 415), to _Ramleh_ (p. 436) and _Fort Abukîr_ on the W. shore of that gulf. The chief landmarks are the lighthouse of _Râs et-Tîn_ (p. 434) and _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (p. 434).

We pass through the strait of _Boghaz_, amidst the chain of cliffs between Râs et-Tîn and the fortified _Marabout Island_, and sight the two lighthouses of _El-Meks_ in succession. Lastly we steer through the outer harbour, with its breakwater, and past the _New_ or _Gabbari Mole_ (Môle aux Charbons), 1000 yds. long, into the inner harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 434).

* * * * *

On the PORT SAID VOYAGE the flat coast of Egypt is generally approached at night. We first sight the lights of _Damietta_, on the E. bank of the Damietta branch of the _Nile_, the ancient _Phatnitic Arm_. This and the Rosetta arm are now the only mouths of the river, which had seven in ancient times.

A conspicuous landmark is _Fort Jemil_, between the former _Mendesian_ and _Tanitic_ mouths. It rises on the low downs flanking _Lake Menzaleh_ (970 sq. M.), the largest lagoon in the Nile delta.

The entrance to _Port Said_ (p. 436), 766 yds. in breadth, is marked by a lighthouse, several minor lights, and a number of buoys. On the W. pier (r.) rises the Lesseps monument (p. 437).

68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi.

BETWEEN VENICE AND ALEXANDRIA (1423 M.), _Società Nazionale_ (Line VII: Venice, Alexandria, Port Said) on the 14th and 28th of every month (returning 1st and 15th), viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi, in 5–6 days; fare 280 fr. 95 or 191 fr. 30 c. (from Brindisi 195 fr. 25 or 132 fr. 15 c.). Agents at Venice, see p. 420; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND ALEXANDRIA (1383 M.), _Austrian Lloyd_, two lines: 1st. Quick steamer from Trieste on Thurs. noon (from Brindisi Frid. aft.), in ca. 4 days (returning from Alexandria Sat. aft., from Brindisi Tues. foren.); fare 360 or 245 fr. (from Brindisi 300 or 200 fr.). 2nd. Trieste and Syria Line (R. 72), on Sat. foren., viâ Gravosa (occasionally) and Brindisi, in 5 days (returning Thurs. aft.); fare 250 or 175 fr. (from Brindisi 200 or 135 fr.). Agents at Trieste, see p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND PORT SAID, _Austrian Lloyd_, Syrian Line, see above; also the Bombay steamers (usually 1st and 16th of every month; to Port Said in 4 days), the Calcutta steamers (12th and 25th of each month; 6 days), and the Japan steamers (27th of each month; 6 days). Agent at Port Said, see p. 437.

From Brindisi to Port Said, _P. & O._ on Sun. morn., corresponding with Calais and Brindisi express, chiefly for through-passengers to India.

=Venice.=—At the RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 3; Restaurant, good), where care of heavier luggage may be left to the hotel porters, are a gondola station and two piers for the local steamers (see below).—Agents for sleeping-cars, _Thos. Cook & Son_ and _P. Faerber_ (see p. 420).

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor in the Canale di San Marco, opposite the Punta della Salute (Pl. G, 6). Custom-house examination on board. Gondola tariff, see below.

=Hotels.= HÔT. ROYAL DANIELI (Pl. a; H, 5), on the Riva degli Schiavoni with its fine views, R. 7–30, B. 2, déj. 4, D. 7–10, pens. 15–25 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’EUROPE (Pl. b; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entrance Calle del Ridotto, R. 5–8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 14–18 fr., frequented by American and French travellers; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. o ; F, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Via Ventidue Marzo, Ramo Minotto 2322, R. 7–30, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 7 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. BRITANNIA (Pl. c; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Corte Barozzi, similar charges; four high-class houses.—Less pretending: *GR.-HÔT. D’ITALIE (Pl. h; G, 6), in Campo San Moisè and on the Canal Grande, R. 3½–15, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5–6 fr., often full; *GRAND CANAL HOTEL & MONACO (Pl. l; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Vallaresso, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *HÔT. REGINA (Pl. t; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. 5–18, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., frequented by English and American travellers; HÔT. DE MILAN & BRISTOL (Pl. u; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3–3½, D. 4½–5 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-RIVAGE (Pl. r; H, I, 5), Riva degli Schiavoni, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr., patronized by English and American travellers.

=Restaurants.= *_Bauer-Grünwald_, Via Ventidue Marzo, adjoining the Gr.-Hôt. d’Italie; _Pilsen_, in the Moderne Hôt. Manin, N.W. corner of the Piazza of St. Mark.

=Cafés.= _Florian_, _Aurora_, _Quadri_, all in the Piazza of St. Mark.—TEA ROOM. _Ortes_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2288.

=Gondolas=, the famous and picturesque boats which are the cabs of Venice, have their chief station on the Molo (Pl. H, 6; p. 422). Tariff: in the town, per hour, 1–2 pers. 1½, 3–4 pers. 2, 5–6 pers. 2½ fr. (after dusk ½ fr. extra); half these charges for each addit. ½ hr.; from the _Molo_ to the sea-going steamers, or the reverse, 20 c. each passenger; trunk 20, small packages 5 c.—A boat with two _gondolieri_ costs double. (As a rule one, ‘basta uno’, is enough.) In case of dispute with the boatmen, often insolent and especially towards ladies travelling alone, a _vígile municipale_ (policeman) may be applied to.

The =Local Steamers= (_Vaporetti Comunali_), which do not carry luggage, ply (except in fog) on the main line through the Canal Grande every 10–15 min., from 6 a.m. till midnight; fare 10, to the Lido 20 c. (money changed on board; fare paid on landing). The chief landing-stages (_Pontoni_), beginning from the station, are: 1. _Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3), near the exit from the station; 2. _Cerva_, Riva del Carbón (Pl. G, 4), for the Rialto bridge (p. 421) and streets (p. 421) leading to St. Mark’s; 3. _San Tomà_ (Pl. E, 5), for the church of the Frari (p. 422); 4. _Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6), for the picture-gallery (p. 422); 5. _San Marco_ (Pl. G, 6; near the Calle Vallaresso), for St. Mark’s; 6. _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, 5), for the Riva degli Schiavoni and St. Mark’s; 7. _Giardini Pubblici_ (Pl. L, 7); 8. _Lido_ (p. 424; April-Oct. only). In the reverse direction the steamers call at the _Riva del Carbón_ (Pl. G, 4) instead of Cerva, and at _Santa Lucia_, close to the entrance to the railway-station (see above), instead of Scalzi.

A minor line connects the Riva degli Schiavoni (comp. Pl. H, 5, 6) with the islands of _San Giorgio Maggiore_ (Pl. H, I, 7; p. 424) and _Giudecca_; in April-Sept. every ½ hr., in winter hourly.

A third line plies from the Riva degli Schiavoni (dep. near the Ponte della Paglia, Pl. H, 5, 6) direct to the _Lido_, every 20–30 min. Ticket 15, return 25 c.; or, incl. adm. to bath-house 40 c., incl. bath 1 fr. 30 c.

=Post Office.= Fóndaco dei Tedeschi (Pl. G, 4; p. 421), near the Rialto bridge, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; poste restante in the court, on the left.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. G, 6; also branch post-office), Bocca di Piazza, behind the W. side of St. Mark’s Piazza.

=Banks.= _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2188; _Società Bancaria Italiana_, San Marco, Bocca di Piazza 1239; _Guetta_ (_American Express Co._), Campo San Moisè; _Thos. Cook & Son_, see below.—BOOKSELLER. _Istituto Veneto di Arti Gráfiche_, Piazza San Marco 40.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazzetta dei Leoni 289 (N. side of San Marco); _P. Faerber_, in Hôt. d’Italie (p. 419), also town-agent for the railway.

=Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_, Piazza San Marco 118; _Hamburg-American_ (for winter pleasure-cruises by ‘Meteor’), P. Faerber, see above; _Società Nazionale_, Campo Morosini 2802; _Austrian Lloyd_, for the Venice and Trieste Line (p. 425), in the Piazzetta (p. 423); _Hungarian Croatian Co._, Thos. Cook & Son (see above).

=Consuls.= British, _E. de Zuccato_, Traghetto San Felice, Grand Canal.—United States Consul, _J. V. Long_, Campiello Querini Stampaglia 5257.

=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), Campo San Vio 731; _Presbyterian_, Piazza of St. Mark 95.

ONE DAY may suffice for a hurried glance, but a week or more should if possible be devoted to this unique city. Sail through the _Grand Canal_; inspection of the piazza and the church of _St. Mark_ and the _Doges’ Palace_ (p. 423).—Of the _Churches_ St. Mark’s (p. 423) is open throughout the day, Santi Giovanni e Paolo (p. 424) and Frari (p. 422) save from 12–2 (adm. in the afternoon, till their restoration is completed, 50 c.). The _Doges’ Palace_ is open on week-days, 9–3 (adm. 1 fr., or incl. visit to the Archæological Museum and the Prigioni 2½ fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free. _Academy_ (p. 422) on week-days 9–4 (adm. 1 fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free.

_Venice_, Ital. _Venezia_, once the most brilliant commercial city in the world, now a provincial capital, with 148,500 inhab., of whom one quarter are practically paupers, is a commercial and naval port. It lies 2½ M. from the mainland in the lagoons, a shallow bay 25 M. long by 9½ M. broad, separated from the Adriatic by narrow sandy strips of land (_lidi_). The city is built on piles, on 117 islets, and is intersected by over 150 canals, which are crossed by 378 bridges. The interior of the town consists of a labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes, some of them scarcely 5 ft. wide. The centre of traffic is the _Piazza San Marco_ (‘la Piazza’), with the adjacent _Piazzetta_. The other open spaces are called _campi_ or _campielli_. The local name for a street is _calle_ or _salizzada_, and for a narrow canal _rio_.

The tribe of the _Veneti_, the ancient inhabitants of N.E.Italy, were of Illyrian race, but became Romanized in the 3rd cent. B. C. The havoc committed on the mainland by the barbarian Huns compelled the inhabitants of the coast to seek refuge in the islands of the lagoons, where in 697 they formed the Venetian League, headed by a doge (_dux_). In 811 _Rivoalto_ (now Venice) became their capital. Aided by its close connection with the Byzantine Empire (p. 541), the town rose to be a rival of Genoa in its important traffic between East and West. In its art also Venice was under Oriental influence throughout the middle ages. After the conquest of Constantinople by the great doge _Enrico Dandolo_ in 1204, the lion of St. Mark laid his mighty talons on the coasts and islands of Greece and Asia Minor. On the Italian continent also the republic gradually extended its conquests to Bergamo.

The 15th cent. saw the zenith of the republic’s glory, when her fleet commanded the whole of the E. Mediterranean. But after their capture of Constantinople in 1453 the Turks began to menace the Venetian supremacy. The discovery of America and of the new sea-routes to India carried the world’s traffic into new channels, while her continental possessions involved her in the wars between the rival powers of France, Austria, and Spain. Her protracted conflicts with the Turks led in 1718 to the final loss of all her Oriental possessions, and in 1798 her political independence was destroyed by the French. From 1814 to 1866 Venice belonged to Austria, and since 1866 has formed a part of the kingdom of Italy, under whose auspices her trade has somewhat revived.

The *=Canal Grande= or _Canalazzo_, the main artery of Venice, intersects the city from the _Railway Station_ (Pl. C, D, 3) to the harbour (_Canale_ or _Bacino di San Marco_, Pl. G-K, 6, 7), from N.W. to S.E., and resembles an inverted _S_ in shape. The voyage through it by steamer (p. 419; 25 min.) or by gondola (p. 419; 1 hr., preferable) conveys a most striking impression of the magnificence of mediæval Venice. The canal is bordered with fine old guild-houses, sumptuous churches, and stately palaces of the 12–18th cent., and each of its bends reveals a new and picturesque vista.

LEFT. │ RIGHT. │ _Chiesa degli Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3; │ church of the barefooted friars), │ in the highly ornate baroque style │ (1649–89). │ │ │_Fóndaco dei Turchi_ (Pl. E, 3; │‘trade hall of the Turks’), a late │Romanesque edifice (11th cent.), │restored in 1861–9, now the _Museo │Civico_. *_Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi_ (Pl. │ E, F, 3), the most beautiful │ early-Renaissance palace in Venice │ (1509), in which Richard Wagner │ died in 1883. │ │ │_Palazzo Pésaro_ (Pl. F, 3), the │most brilliant example of │late-Renaissance (1679), now the │_Gallería d’Arte Moderna_. *_Cà Doro_ (Pl. F, 3), the most │ elegant Gothic palace (15th cent.).│ │ _Fóndacodei Tedeschi_ (Pl. G, 4; p.│ 420), once the warehouse of the │ Germans (1505). │

The *_Ponte di Rialto_ (Pl. G, 4; ‘Rivo Alto’, the ancient name of Venice; comp. p. 420), is a marble arch of 29½ yds. span and 74 ft. in breadth, flanked with shops (1588–92).

Near the bridge are the │ steamboat-piers of Cerva and Riva │ del Carbón (p. 419), whence the │ _Mercería_ (Pl. G, 4, 5), a street │ of shops, and the Calle dei Fabbri │ (Pl. G, 5) both lead in 5 min. to │ _St. Mark’s_. │ │ _Pal. Loredan_ (Pl. F, 5) and _Pal.│ Farsetti_, once Dándolo, both │ Romanesque (12th cent.). │ │ *_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance, │_Pal. Papadópoli_ (16th cent.). Sanmicheli’s masterpiece (16th │ cent.). │ │ │_Pal. Pisani_ (_a San Polo_), │Gothic (15th cent.). │ _Pal. Corner-Spinelli_, │_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance early-Renaissance, in the style of │(16th cent.). the Lombardi. │ │ │Near it is steamboat pier San Tomà │(Pl. E, 5; p. 419), for the old │Franciscan church *_Frari_ (Pl. E, │5; adm., see p. 420; ticket valid │also for San Tomà), in the Gothic │style (1380–1417), the │resting-place of many eminent │Venetians, with admirable │altar-pieces by Giov. Bellini and │Titian (temporarily in _San Tomà_, │close by; adm. 9–5, ticket 50 c. │admitting also to the Frari │church). │ │*_Pal. Fóscari_ (Pl E, 5), Gothic │(15th cent.). │ │_Pal. Rezzonico_ (Pl E, 6), built │in 1680. Robert Browning died here │in 1889.

Between the Campo San Vitale (Vidal) and the Campo della Carità is the _Ponte di Ferro or dell’Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6).

│Near the bridge is steamboat pier │Accadémia (p. 419) for the │*_Accadémia di Belle Arti_ (Pl. E, │6), containing admirable Venetian │pictures (G. Bellini, Carpaccio, │Titian, P. Veronese). Adm., see p. │420. │ _Pal. Cavalli_ (Pl. E, 6), now │ _Franchetti_, Gothic (15th. cent.).│ │ _Pal. Corner della Cà Grande_ (Pl. │ F, 6), by Jac. Sansovino (1532). │ │ _Pal. Contarini-Fasan_ (Pl. F, G, │*_Santa Maria della Salute_ (Pl. F, 6), Gothic (14th cent.). │G, 6), by Bald. Longhena (17th │cent.); fine pictures by Titian in │the sacristy. │ │_Dogana di Mare_ (Pl. G, 6), │custom-house (1676–82), on the │point between the Grand and the │_Giudecca_ canals. │ _Giardino Reale_ (Pl. G, 6), or │ royal garden, behind the Procuratie│ Nuove (p. 423). │ │ _Molo_ (Pl. H, 6), adjoining the │ Piazzetta (p. 423). │

From the Molo, or from one of the steamboat-piers (p. 419) of San Marco (Pl. G, 6) or San Zaccaria (Pl. H, 5), we next visit the **=Piazza di San Marco= (Pl. G, 5), the centre of the traffic of the city. Even now this far-famed piazza (182 yds. long, 100 yds. wide at the E. end, 61 at the W. end; paved with slabs of trachyte and marble) conveys an admirable idea of the ancient glory of Venice.

On the N. and S. sides of the piazza rise the PROCURATÍE, once the residences of the nine procurators or highest officials of the republic. The _Procuratíe Vecchie_, on the N. side, were erected in 1480–1517. The _Procuratíe Nuove_, now used along with the adjacent old Library (see below) as a royal palace, were begun by Vinc. Scamozzi in 1584. The _Atrio_ or _Nuova Fábbrica_, on the W. side, dates only from 1810. The groundfloors of these buildings, flanked with arcades, are now occupied by cafés (p. 419) and shops.

The old CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, at the corner of the Old Library, collapsed in 1902, but has been rebuilt. The top of the tower (adm. 15 c.) commands a fine and extensive *View. The _Torre dell’ Orologio_, a clock-tower built in 1496–9, adjoining the Old Procuratie, forms the entrance to the _Mercería_ (p. 421).