Part 59
Route Page 63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse) 396 64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta 404 65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna 412 Leptis Magna, 412.—The Cyrenaica, 413. 66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete 415 67. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said 417 68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi 418 Miramar. Divača, 427. 69. Alexandria 431 70. Port Said 436 71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo 437 Cairo 439 History, 443.—History of Art, 444.—a. Northern Quarters (The Ezbekîyeh Garden, the Muski, Gâmia el-Azhar, Muristân Kalâûn, Gâmia el-Muaiyad), 445.—b. The S.E. Quarters (The Arab Museum, Gâmia Ibn Tulûn, Gâmia Sultân Hasan, Citadel, Gâmia en-Nâsir, Gâmia Mohammed Ali), 450.—c. The New Town (The Ismaîlîyeh and Tewfîkîyeh Quarters, Egyptian Museum, Gezîreh), 454.—d. Environs (The Mameluke Tombs, Heliopolis Oasis, Heliopolis-On, Old Cairo, Pyramids of Gîzeh, Memphis, and Sakkâra), 458. 72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut (Smyrna, Constantinople) viâ Jaffa 466 From Haifa to Nâbulus; to Damascus viâ Derât (Nazareth, Tabarîya), 468. 73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem 470 From Jerusalem to Bethlehem, 480. 74. Beirut. Excursion to Damascus 481 75. From Beirut to Smyrna (and Constantinople) 489 76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (and Constantinople) 491 77. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Athens (and Constantinople) 493 78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (and Constantinople) viâ Brindisi and Patras 496 Corfu, 496. 79. Athens 502 History, 505.—a. Walk from the Palace round the S. side of the Acropolis (The Olympieion, Stadion, Monument of Lysikrates, Theatre of Dionysos, Odeion, Areopagus), 508.—b. The Acropolis (The Temple of Nike, Propylæa, Parthenon. Erechtheion, Acropolis Museum), 512.—c. Walk from the Palace to the Theseion. Dipylon. Hill of the Nymphs. Pnyx. Monument of Philopappos, 520.—d. The Modern Quarters (Academy of Science, University, Library, Polytechnic Institute), 525.—e. The National Archæological Museum, 526.—f. Walks (Lykabettos, Kolonos, New Phaleron), 528. 80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople 529 81. Constantinople 536 History, 541.—a. Galata and Pera (Galata Tower, Petits Champs, Dolma Bagcheh Palace, Top Haneh), 542.—b. Stambul (Yeni Valideh Jami, Seraglio, New Museum, Chinili Kiosque, Aya Sophia, Mosque of Ahmed I., Great Bazaar, Mosques of Bayazid, Suleiman the Great, and Mohammed II., Land-Wall), 545.—c. The Golden Horn (Eyub, Sweet Waters), 555.—d. Scutari, 556.—e. The Bosporus, 557.
=63. From Tunis to Malta= (_Syracuse_).
258 M. STEAMERS (agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Malta, see p. 400). =1.= _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (Marseilles, Tunis, and Malta line, R. 21) on Wed. (returning Thurs.) afternoon, in 18 hrs. (55 or 40 fr.).—=2.= _Hungarian Adria_ (R. 22) once a month (cabin, without food, 25 fr.).—Other steamers calling at Malta (P. & O., German Levant cargo-boats, etc.) are mostly bound for distant ports. Embarking and landing, comp. p. 399.—English money is the currency at Malta, but French and Italian gold are in general use.
The steamers follow the Palermo and Naples course (comp. R. 26) as far as _Cape Bon_, and then steer to the E.S.E. into the _Straits of Pantelleria_ or _Sicilian Straits_ (p. xxx).
The island of _Pantelleria_ (p. 154), which is sighted in clear weather off Cape Bon, is passed by the French steamers at night. The lighthouse of _Spadillo_ (68 ft.), on the N. E. point of the island, long remains in sight. The distant _Linosa_ (610 ft.; ancient _Æthusa_), with a lighthouse, is visible only in very clear weather.
In the early morning the abrupt coasts of _Gozo_ (p. 403) and _Malta_ (p. 399) appear in the distance. The vessel rounds the island of Gozo, whose lighthouse on the _Giurdan Hill_ (499 ft.) on the N. side, is visible for 27 M.
Beyond _Râs el-Kala_, the E. point of Gozo, we sight the narrow _Straits of Flieghi_ or _Comino Channels_, lying between Gozo and Malta, and named alter the island of _Comino_ (p. 397).
On the N. E. coast of _Malta_, above which soon appears the huge dome of Musta (p. 403), we pass the _Baia di Melleha_ or _Mellieha Bay_, with the pilgrims’ resort of that name in the background, the _St. Paul’s Bay_ (p. 403), and _Salina Bay_, with its salt-works.
Next appear the village of _St. Julian_ (_San Giuliano_), on the bay of that name, and the town of _Sliema_ (p. 400). We then pass _Fort Tigné_ (p. 401; lighthouse) and the entrance to the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (p. 399). The entrance of the _Grand Harbour_, the chief harbour of _Valletta_, between _Fort St. Elmo_ (p. 400; lighthouse) and _Fort Ricasoli_ (p. 401; lighthouse), is protected against N.E. gales by the new _St. Elmo_ and _Ricasoli Breakwaters_.—Arrival, comp. p. 399.
* * * * *
The =Maltese Islands= (_Isŏle Maltesi_), composed of tertiary rock formation, were considered by earlier geographers to belong to Africa, but are now assigned to Europe. They lie halfway between the Straits of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, on the chief route from the Atlantic to the Levant and to India. The principal island is _Malta_, with the capital _Valletta_ and many small towns and villages (_casal_). It is 20 M. long, 9¾ M. broad, and, at its culminating point, 847 ft. in height. The island is much over-peopled. So is the island of _Gozo_ (600 ft.), which measures 10¼ by 5¼ M.; but _Comino_ (248 ft.), 1¼ by 1 M., is uninhabited. The mean temperature of the year is 66½° Fahr., of January 53½° (almost the same as that of Djerba and Tripoli), of August 79½°. Gales, particularly the dreaded N.E. wind (_Gregale_), often make a winter residence in Malta uncomfortable, while the _Sirocco_ (p. 321), here very moist, is specially trying in autumn.
At first sight the islands seem destitute of vegetation, the fields and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls, while the growth of trees is prevented by the violent winds. By means of laborious tilling and artificial irrigation about a third of the area of the islands has been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. After the corn and hay harvest in May and June the land is sown a second time, mostly with cotton, afterwards manufactured in the interior. Among other valuable products are early vegetables and potatoes, which yield two crops in the year. The oranges are excellent but other fruits are scarce. Cattle, poultry, and eggs are largely imported from Turkey, Tunisia, Tripolitania, and Barca (p. 412).
The population of Malta (96½ sq. M.), is ca. 184,000, apart from the garrison (nearly 9000 soldiers); that of Gozo (27 sq. M.) is 21,200. The British and foreign residents number about 10,000. The natives, especially in the seaports, Phœnician in origin, are partly descended from the various races that have here held sway. The _lingua Maltese_ is akin to Arabic, but has borrowed much from the Sicilian dialect of Italian, and of late from English also. The educated classes speak Italian which is used also in the law-courts. The language of commerce is English. The _faldetta_, the peculiar black head-dress of the women, is the sole relic of the old national costumes.
The Maltese are much attached to the church of Rome, and nowhere in so small a community are the churches so numerous and gorgeous. About one-third of the soil is said to belong to the clergy. The Maltese are well-known throughout the Mediterranean as enterprising mariners, merchants, and fishermen. Their island being the most densely peopled region in the Mediterranean next to Monaco, an immense number of the inhabitants have emigrated during the last century. From 1807 onwards they settled largely in the Tunisian seaports, from Tabarca to Zarzis, where they formed the bulk of the Christian population, but of late they have had to contend against the growing competition of the Sicilians and other Italians. In Algeria they have formidable rivals in the Italians and Spaniards. Within the last few decades the stream of emigration has flowed chiefly to Tripolitania, Barca, Egypt, and even to Zanzibar and Delagoa Bay.
Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of _Ogygia_ described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N. coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000 B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years, traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular ground-plan, an affinity with the _sesi_ of Pantelleria, the _nuraghi_ of Sardinia (see p. 145), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary, S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. 370) on the Tunisian coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now called it _Melita_ and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts, xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. 322), and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in 1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530 Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. 400) in 1565, when they were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut (p. 370), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept. 1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is _Lt.-Gen. Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B._
The island of =Malta= presents an undulating and richly varied N.E. coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The _Grand Harbour_ and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_, the two grand natural harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by 3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden.
=Valletta.=—ARRIVAL. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek (p. 400); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6_d._, with baggage 9_d._ (at night 1_s._). Passports may sometimes be useful at custom-house, post-office, etc.
=Hotels= (all more or less in the English style). =1.= _At Valletta_: HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9_s._, good; ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, Strada San Paolo 226, pens. 9_s._, well conducted; HÔT. ROYAL, Strada Mercanti 30, pens. 10_s._; WESTMINSTER, Strada Reale 11; IMPERIAL, Via Santa Lucia 134; QUEEN’S, Strada Mercanti; HÔT. D’AUSTRALIE, Strada Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½ fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, OXFORD (No. 29), GREAT BRITAIN (No. 67), and OSBORNE (No. 50), all in Strada Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—=2.= _At Sliema_ (p. 400), for some stay: *NEW IMPERIAL, Strada Ridolfo; SAVOY, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden, pens. (with bath) 6–8_s._, good; these two in an open site.
=Restaurant.= _National Restaurant_, Strada Reale 253.—CAFÉS. _Risazza_, near the Exchange Buildings; _Regina_, Piazza Tesoreria; _Anglo-Maltese_ (Engl. beer), _Commerce_, both in Strada Reale; Express.
=Post Office=, Strada Mercanti 4.—=Telegraph Office=, Strada Reale 38.
=Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Strada Reale 233; _Banco di Roma_; _Anglo-Maltese_ and _Banco di Malta_, Exchange Buildings, Strada Reale.—MONEY CHANGERS. _Coppini_, Strada Mercanti 58; _Thos. Cook & Son_, Strada Reale 308.—BOOKSELLER. _J. Critien_, Strada Reale, and others.—NEWSPAPERS. _Daily Malta Chronicle_, _Malta Herald_, _Gazzetta di Malta_, etc.
=Shops.= LACE at the _Malta Lace School_, Strada Mezzodì 28; _Borg_, Strada Reale 269; _Mifsud_, Strada Santa Lucia.—FILIGREE WORK at _Amabile’s_.
=Theatres.= _Royal Opera_, Strada Reale, at the corner of Strada Mezzodì (Nov.–April, Ital. opera); _Teatro Manoel_, Strada Teatro, built by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401) in 1731, for operas and varieties.—VARIETIES at the Alhambra.
=Cabs.= Within Valletta and Floriana, incl. the Marina 4_d._ (luggage according to bargain); to Sliema 1_s._ 2_d._, to Burmola, Senglea, or Vittoriosa 1_s._ 8_d._, to Musta 2_s._, to Notabile or Krendi 2_s._ 6_d._, to Boschetto 3_s._, to Mnaidra or St. Paul’s Bay 4_s._—By time: ¼ hr. 6_d._, ½ hr. 1_s._, 1 hr. 1_s._ 6_d._, each addit. ¼ hr. 4_d._
=Lift= from the harbour to the Upper Barracca (p. 402), 1_d._
=Tramways= from Porta Reale (1) viâ Marsa and Casal Paula (2_d._) to Burmola, (2) viâ Curmi to Zebbug, (3) viâ Hamrun to Birchircara.
=Steam Ferry= across the Grand Harbour to Senglea (½_d._); across Marsamuscetto Harbour to Sliema (½_d._); to Pietà and Misida (1_d._); in summer to St. Julian’s also (2_d._).—STEAMER TO GOZO every week-day at 7, on Sun. at 8 a.m.; on Sun., Tues., Thurs., Sat. at 1 p.m. also; returning at 10.30 or 4.30; return-fare 1_s._; dep. from Grand Harbour; to or from steamer 4_d._
=Malta Railway= (station between Royal Opera and Porta Reale), 24 trains daily (more on Sun.) to Attard 3_d._ or 1½_d._, to Notabile (Città Vecchia) 7_d._ or 3½_d._
=Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Worcester, Strada Mercanti 41; _Cunard_, Lowe, Strada Stretta 81; _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 396), Vadala, Strada Reale 292; _Società Nazionale_ (R. 64), Civitelli, Strada San Paolo 225; _German Levant_, P. Cutajar & Co.; _Hungarian Adria Co._ (RR. 22, 23), Kohen, Piazza Regina 6.
=United States Consul=, _J. O. Laing_; vice-consul, _James A. Turnbull_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Gollcher & Sons_, Strada Zaccaria 21.
=Sights.= _Cathedral_ before 8 and from 10 to 10.30 a.m.; also after 2 p.m.—_Library_ on week-days, 9 to 3.30.—_Governor’s Palace_ daily, 9–12 and 1–5, 6_d._ (guide unnecessary).—_Valletta Museum_ on week-days 9–1 (in June-Sept. 3–6 also), 6_d._, Sat. 3_d._ ; Sun. 9–12 free.
ONE DAY. Visit to _Cathedral_, _Palace_, and _Museum_ (p. 401), and view from _Barracca Superiore_ (p. 402) in the forenoon; in the afternoon, trip to _Notabile_ (p. 403; cathedral, bastions, museum), or to _Gozo_ (p. 403).
_Valletta_ or _Valetta_ (197 ft.; pop. 25,000, or incl. Floriana 32,000), the capital of Malta, is the seat of the Governor (see p. 399), of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Forces (Gen. Sir Ian Hamilton), and of a University founded in 1769. It lies in 35°34′ N. lat. and 14°31′ E. long., at the extremity of the peninsula, formerly called _Monte Sceberras_, 1½ M. long and ½ M. broad, between the _Grand Harbour_ (to the S.E.) and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (to the N.W.). Enthroned above its harbours, with its grand fortifications partly hewn in the rock, the model of a 16th. cent, fortress, it presents a very striking appearance when approached from the sea.
Opposite Valletta, on the three central creeks of the Grand Harbour, lie the ‘Three Cities’ of _Borgo_ (Malt. _Birgu_; pop. 6200), the oldest seat of the Maltese Order, also called _Vittoriosa_ since the great Turkish siege, _Sénglea_ (pop. 8100), and _Búrmola_ or _Cospicua_ (pop. 14,100), with the naval arsenal. In the Marsamuscetto Harbour lies the island of _Jezira_, with the Lazzaretto, beyond which, on the _Sliema Creek_, rises the town of _Sliema_ (pop. 12,000).
The =Fortifications= were an object of ceaseless attention under the rule of the Order. The oldest part of them is _Fort St. Angelo_, originally built by the Moors in 870 and renewed in 1530, which in the siege of 1565 proved the chief bulwark of Borgo. _Fort St. Elmo_, originally built in 1488 but now entirely altered, fell into the hands of the Turks in 1565. The town-wall of _Borgo_ was built in 1530 and that of _Sénglea_ in 1554. The *Town Walls of _Valletta_, with their thirty bastions, deep moats, drawbridges, and casemates, date chiefly from the time of the foundation of the town (1566–71). The outworks of _Floriana_ are of 1635. The older ramparts of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Burmola, called the _Firenzuola Lines_, were strengthened by the addition of new outworks in 1668 called the _Cottonera Lines_. The later harbour-forts are _Fort Ricasoli_, of 1670, _Fort Manoel_ in Jezira, of 1732, and _Fort Tigné_, of 1792. All these works are supplemented by the British _Harbour Batteries_.
The streets ascend steeply from the two harbours, many of them by means of long flights of steps. The main business streets are the STRADA REALE, leading on the top of the peninsula from Fort St. Elmo to Porta Reale (over ½ M.), and the Strada Mercanti. From the latter the Strada Cristoforo descends past the _University_, established in an old Jesuit college (Strada San Paolo 109), to the _Lower Barracca Gardens_, a bastion affording a good survey of the mouth of the harbour and the ‘Three Cities’.
The plain PALACE, once the seat of the Grand Master and now that of the governor of Malta (see p. 399), was erected in 1573–7 by _Girolamo Cassar_ in the Strada Reale and Piazza Tesoreria, in the centre of the town. The garden court on the left is adorned with a bronze statue of Neptune by _Giovanni da Bologna_; in the court on the right rises a huge Araucaria excelsa. Adm., see p. 400; entrance by the green gate in the upper court.
The chief attraction is the PALACE ARMOURY on the first floor, containing armour, weapons, flags, and trophies of the Order (catalogue 5_s._). The principal hall, 88 yds. long, contains also state-coaches in the pseudo-classical style and charters of Pope Paschalis II. (1113) and Charles V. (1530; investiture of the Order). On the walls of the adjacent corridor are painted views of old Malta. The Council Room on the left is hung with superb Gobelins, designed by _Franç. Desportes_ (1703). The wall-paintings represent naval battles fought by the Order.
An inscription on the Doric portico of the _Main Guard_, opposite the N.W. façade of the Palace, records the cession of Malta to Great Britain. A band often plays in the square in the evening. In the Piazza Tesoreria, opposite the S.W. façade of the Palace, is the _Public Library_ of 56,000 vols. (adm., see p. 400; entrance under the arcades).
The CATHEDRAL OF SAN GIOVANNI (_St. John’s_), to the left in the second side-street in the direction of the Porta Reale, built in 1573–7 by _Girol. Cassar_, and lavishly decorated in the interior, was the Order’s temple of fame. Adm., see p. 400.
INTERIOR. The oil-paintings on the barrel-vaulting are by _Mattia Preti_ (‘il Cavaliere Calabrese’; 1613–99). On the floor are about 400 slabs of coloured marble, tombstones of the knights. The chapels dedicated to the nine nations of the Order are lined with a number of tombstones of Grand Masters, mostly in the baroque or rococo style. In the Portuguese chapel (2nd on the right) are those of Ant. Manoel de Vilhena (1722–36) and Manoel Pinto de Fonseca (1741–73), the founder of the university.—In the Crypt, below the high-altar (of 1686), repose, among others, L’Isle Adam (1530–4), the first Maltese Grand Master, and Jean de la Valette (1557–68), the gallant defender of Borgo (see p. 398).
Sumptuous Brussels tapestry (1697–1701), after designs by _Rubens_ and _Mattia Preti_, is hung up in the church on festivals.
The *VALLETTA MUSEUM, Strada San Giovanni 38, opposite the façade of the Cathedral, affords an admirable survey of the history of Maltese art and culture from the prehistoric age down to the close of the Knights’ period. Adm., see p. 400; no catalogue; curator, Dr. Themistocles Zammit.
ENTRANCE ROOM. On the left the ‘sacred stone’ from the Torre dei Giganti (p. 404); Roman inscriptions from Gozo (about 140 A. D.); a fine Norman capital, Norman and Cufic (early Arabic) inscriptions, etc.; also models of stone balconies and of a Norman window at Victoria (p. 404).
FIRST FLOOR. Prehistoric objects from Egypt (the Faiyûm); the Lord Grenfell collection of Egyptian antiquities; Greek vases from Benghazi and Cyrene; Arabian glass, etc.