The Mediterranean

Part 54

Chapter 543,884 wordsPublic domain

We may thence walk in ½ hr. to the _Prise d’Eau_ (902 ft.), the reservoir of the new conduit which supplies both Zaghouan and Tunis with water from the _Aïn Ayed_. The direct route leads from the station past the barracks of the tirailleurs; or we may follow a rough but romantic path from the little town, through a secluded valley, where numerous nightingales nest among the oleander-bushes by the bed of the stream. From the Prise d’Eau a rocky path leads to the S.W. to the (12 min.) *NYMPHÆUM (_Temple des Eaux_; Arabic _Henchir Aïn-Kasba_, ‘ruined castle of the fountain’), the well-house of the Carthage aqueduct (p. 348), shaded by groups of splendid old trees. Near the basin are two flights of steps leading to the semicircle of the fountain-shrine, with its colonnade, twenty-four empty niches for statues, and a domed central chamber, the ante-room of the cella.

*=Jebel Zaghouan= (4245 ft.), the ancient _Mons Ziquensis_, the finest mountain in Tunisia, offers from the summit, called _Râs el-Kasa_, a superb panorama of the greater part of N. Tunisia and of the E. coast as far as Susa. It is ascended from the Nymphæum path in 4 hrs., past the kubba of _Sidi Sala Bou-Ghobrin_ (2264 ft.) and the zinc-mines (with their humble canteen), and lastly by rough and toilsome paths. Less extensive, but also very grand, is the view near the _Poste Optique_ (3199 ft.), 2 hrs. above the Prise d’Eau (bridle-path; mule 2–3 fr.).

Our train, running to the S.W. with a fine view of Jebel Zaghouan on the left, now intersects the Smindja plain and reaches the _Fahs er-Riah_, the fertile upper basin of the valley of the Oued Miliane, which is here formed by the _Oued Jarabia_ and the _Oued el-Kébir_. Its inhabitants are of the Riah tribe, descendants of the Beni Hilal (p. 323).

40 M. _Pont-du-Fahs_ (574 ft.). The village (Hôt. Calega, poor), occupied by immigrants, lies ½ hr. to the N.E., on the left bank of the Miliane. Behind it, on the spurs of _Jebel Djaffar_ (1185 ft.), are the extensive ruins of _Henchir-Kasbat_ (702 ft.), the ancient _Thuburbo Majus_; in the forum are two ruined temples, one of them, dedicated to Mercury, dating from 211 A.D.; there are also triumphal arches, thermæ, and a Byzantine fortress.

On the right rises the curiously shaped _Jebel Klab_ (1204 ft.). We cross the Oued el-Kébir and run to the W. through the Jarabia valley to (48½ M.) _Tarf ech-Chena_, 3 M. to the N.W. of _Apisa Majus_. Farther on almost the only habitations visible are the tents and gourbis (twig-huts) of nomadic tribes.

Beyond (55½ M.) _Bou-Arada_ we cross the watershed between the Oued Miliane and the _Oued Siliana_ (p. 354).

65 M. _El-Aroussa_, station for _Ksar Hellal_, which has an early-Christian chapel of trefoil form. 70 M. _Sidi-Ayed_, on the Oued Siliana. We then ascend the winding valley to the S.W.

75 M. =Gaffour= (about 1080 ft.; Rail. Restaurant, with rooms), with its railway-works, is the station for the large estate of the Société Foncière de Tunisie, 72,500 acres in area, where extensive corn-fields are seen in spring. From Gaffour a road, tolerably fit for driving in dry weather, leads over _Jebel Sidi Abdalla Ben-Cheid_ (2070 ft.) to _Teboursouk_ (Dougga; comp. p. 354).

82 M. _El-Akhouat_, in the valley of the _Oued Soufi_, near the zinc-mines on _Jebel el-Akhouat_ (2061 ft.); 86½ M. _Le Krib_, on the S. edge of the fertile _Plaine du Krib_.

93 M. _Sidi Bou-Rouis_, on the _Oued Tessa_ (p. 357), which here forms a wide bend to the E. round _Jebel Maïza_ (2920 ft.). To the left rises the chain of _Jebel Massouge_ (3019 ft.). 103 M. _Le Sers_, on the N. margin of the broad dale of that name (Arabic _Bled es-Sers_), one of the most fertile inland districts in Tunisia.

106 M. =Les Salines= (Rail. Restaurant), junction for Kalaâ-Djerda (see p. 361), lies on the highroad from Le Kef to Souk et-Tléta and on a rough road to (19 M.) Maktar.

=Maktar= (3117 ft.; inn), the _Maktarium_ of the Libyans and the _Ælia Aurelia Augusta Mactaris_ of the Romans, to the W. of the richly wooded _Hammada Kessera_, is now a small village of ‘colonists’ with a fortified bordj (Contrôle Civil; containing an epigraphical collection), and is the administrative centre for the district of the Ouled Aoun and Ouled Ayar. Extensive orchards and Sunday market. Among the antiquities are numerous dolmens, Roman ruins (arch of Trajan of 116 A.D., mausolea, an aqueduct, etc.), and an early-Christian basilica.

The train next ascends to the N.W., between Jebel Maïza, on the right, and _Jebel Lorbeus_ (2641 ft.), on the left, and crosses the _Oued Lorbeus_, up whose valley once lay the Roman _Lares_, later _Lorbeus_, a small town destroyed in 1048 by the Hilalides (p. 323).—118 M. _Zafran_, on the spurs of _Jebel Zafran_. Traversing the bleak mountain plain of _Bled Zafran_ we soon have a fine view of Le Kef and the barren _Dyr el-Kef_ (p. 357).

125½ M. =Le Kef= (2477 ft.; Hôt. Dalban, Milano, etc., very plain; pop. 7000, incl. 1400 Europeans, 900 of them Italians), superbly situated near an abrupt rocky slope, the S.W. spur of Dyr el-Kef, was down to modern times the chief town in W. Tunisia. In its earliest period it was famed for its temple of Astarte. After the first Punic war the discontented mercenaries (p. 332) were banished hither. Under Augustus the town became a Roman colony named _Sicca_, with the cognomen of _Veneria_ derived from its temple of Venus. Under the later Roman empire it was of great strategic importance, lying at the junction of the roads to Thacia (p. 357), Theveste (Tebessa), Thagaste (p. 313), and Simitthu (p. 326); by the Arabs it was even regarded as the key of Algeria. During the Turkish period fierce battles were fought under its walls (in 1694, 1705, and 1807) between the beys of Tunisia and Algeria, and during the French advance in 1881 Le Kef was hardly a less important objective than Tunis itself. Since then the mosques have been open to visitors (tickets at the Contrôle Civil).

From the station (omnibus) we ascend through the new European quarter, with its red-tiled roofs, to (20 min.) the Boulevard de Tunis, once the rampart on the N.W. side of the town, where we have an extensive view. The only Roman ruins are the basin of _Aïn el-Kef_ and the _Thermae_ at the W. angle of the old town.

The old town, still enclosed on three sides by the mouldering Turkish wall, consists of narrow and irregular streets built partly out of Roman and Byzantine ruins. The old _Dâr el-Bey_ is now the Hôtel de Ville. The _Chief Mosque_ (Djamâa el-Kebîra) is built into the ruins of an early-Christian basilica (?).

The early-Christian *CHURCH OF ST. PETER (Arabic _Dâr el-Kuss_) was a small columnar basilica of the early 5th cent, with nave and aisles (23 by 10½ yds.); but the narthex (vestibule, now used as a church) and the fine choir-recess have alone been left standing. Many Roman sculptures, mostly from a temple, have been built into the walls of the aisles, which were originally vaulted. The nave, which once had a timber roof, retains relics of its old mosaic pavement.

The zaouïa of _Sidi Kaddour el-Mizouni_, one of the three largest Tunisian establishments of the widely diffused Mohammedan brotherhood of the Kadria (p. 183), enjoys a high reputation. The zaouïa of _Sidi Salah ben-Aïssa_, belonging to the Rahmania, contains a fine modern cenotaph of the saint.

Steep lanes and passages in steps connect the old town with the Turkish _Kasba_ (now barracks).

Outside the town is a third early-Christian church, the so-called _Kasr el-Ghûla_ (‘castle of ghosts’). The _Roman Cisterns_ to the N. of the Kasba are still used.

From Le Kef to _Souk el-Arba_, see p. 326; to _Tunis_, see R. 55.

* * * * *

The RAILWAY TO KALAÂ-DJERDA runs to the S.W. from Les Salines (p. 360) through the pass of _Khanguet Fras_ to (112 M. from Tunis) _Les Zouarines_, in the plain of the _Bled Zouarine_.

119 M. _Ebba-Ksour_ is the station for the ruins of _Ebba_, the _Obba_ of the Carthaginians and Romans, destroyed by the Hilalides (p. 323) in 1048, and for the village of _Ksour_ (2164 ft.), on the N. edge of the rocky upland plain of _Ouartane_, the site of a Libyan-Phœnician town.

We cross the _Oued Medeïna_ below the ruins of _Medeïna_, the Roman _Althiburus_ (with theatre, capitol, triumphal arch, etc.). 125 M. _Aïn-Mesria_; 128½ M. _Fedj el-Tameur_, junction for (19½ M.) the mines of _Slata_.

The train next passes over the saddle between the lofty plateau of _Khremensa_, rich in phosphates, on the right, and _Jebel Ayata_ (3480 ft.), on the left, and then descends past _Jebel Zrissa_, on the right, with its iron-mines, into the valley of the _Oued Sarrath_, the chief feeder of the Oued Mellègue (p. 327).

138½ M. _Oued-Sarrath_ (ca. 1900 ft.), on the right bank.

BRANCH LINE from Oued-Sarrath (18½ M., in 1¼–1¾ hr.) down the left bank of the Sarrath viâ _Majouba_ to =Kalaât es-Senam= (Hôt. de Jugurtha), the station for the great phosphate deposits of the Comp. des Phosphates du Dyr on the _Jebel Kalaât es-Senam_ (4111 ft.). The top of the huge mountain, conspicuous far and wide, consists of a tableland, occupied by a deserted Berber village and an old Byzantine fort, accessible only by steep paths with steps.

The train skirts the Sarrath and then ascends the side-valley of _Oued Haidra_. On the left, _Jebel Bou el-Hanèche_ (4040 ft.).

146 M. =Kalaâ-Djerda= (about 2130 ft.; hotel), near the rich phosphate mines of an Italian company on the hills of that name (2886 ft.).

A most interesting excursion may be taken to (11 M.) =Haidra= (about 2790 ft.), the Tunisian frontier custom-house, on the site of _Ammaedara_ (_Colonia Augusta Emerita Ammaedara_), founded perhaps by Vespasian as a Roman colony of veterans, and in the later Roman age no less important than Tebessa. Originally a frontier-fortress it was, like Timgad (p. 289), a model Roman camp. The Carthage and Tebessa road formed the Decumanus Maximus and the Kasserine and Gafsa road the Cardo Maximus. On the left bank the ruins have partly fallen into the bed of the Oued Haidra. The much smaller suburb lay on the right bank. The castellated *_Byzantine Fortress_ of the time of Justinian (p. 541), the largest in N. Africa, was built to guard the passage of the stream. Within the vast enclosure, 219 by 120 yds., are remains of a Byzantine basilica, cisterns, etc.—The imposing *_Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Septimius Severus (p. 407) was used by the Byzantines as a fort also. Near it are an early-Christian _Basilica_, with aisles and extensive Byzantine additions (curious, unexplained holes in the masonry; comp. p. 317), and a second _Basilica_ with double aisles and numerous tombstones. A column, 33 ft. high, is the sole relic of a Roman _Temple_, the only one of which there is a trace. High above the stream, almost intact, rises a Roman *_Mausoleum_, with an open loggia on the upper story.—From Haidra over (10½ M.) _Jebel Kouïf_ to (26 M.) _Tebessa_, see p. 318.

A ROAD leads from Kalaâ-Djerda to _Kasserine_ (43 M.; diligence to Thala daily, thence to Kasserine on Tues. and Frid. only) over the central Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and through the valley of the _Oued Hathob_ (p. 320), by which of old the Arabs invaded Algeria. (From Kasserine to Feriana, see p. 371.) The only village on the route, as in the time of Marius (p. 384) it was the only settlement between Lares (p. 360) and Gafsa, is (8¾ M.) Thala (3337 ft.; Hôt. Recli, Hôt. Gros, both rustic; pop. 800, incl. 80 Europeans), which holds market (Sat.–Mon.) for the Arab-like Berber tribes of the Fraichich (the Frexes of Ptolemy) and Madjeur. It lies on the N.E. slope of _Jebel Char_ (4321 ft.), 40½ M. to the N.E. of Tebessa (p. 315). The Roman antiquities of the town, which was most prosperous under Diocletian, are uninteresting. Near the Esplanade, in the centre of the Roman town, are traces of a temple of Cælestis (p. 356).

57. From Tunis to Susa.

93 M. RAILWAY, two trains daily in 4½–5 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 80, 12 fr. 75 c., 9 fr.); also local trains between Tunis and Hammam-Lif (return-fares 3, 2, 1 fr., or, in summer, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 60 c., 80 c.); also a train to Bir Bou-Rekba (Nabeul). Views on the left.—Railway Restaurants at Bir Bou-Rekba, Enfidaville, and Kalaâ-Srira.—STEAMERS to Susa, see R. 64.

From Tunis to (2½ M.) _Djebel-Djelloud_, see p. 358. Our train turns to the E. to (3¾ M.) _Mégrine_, a station amidst vineyards. Pretty views of Tunis, behind us, to the left.

6¼ M. _Maxula-Rades_, in a marshy site, at the S. end of the tongue of land between Lake Bahira (p. 129) and the open sea. On a height, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station, lies the picturesque little town of =Rades=, which, like Sidi Bou-Saïd (p. 351), is a favourite summer residence of the wealthy Moslems of Tunis. Near the _Fort_ (184 ft.) behind the town we have a splendid view of Lake Bahira, the hills of Carthage, the bay of Tunis, and the fertile Mornag (p. 358).

To the N. of the station lies _Maxula_, a colony of the villas of European families in Tunis, on the site of the Roman town of that name. A road leads thence to (1¼ M.; tramway in summer) the bathing-beach on the bay of Tunis.

A ROAD, enlivened by many vehicles, especially on Sundays and holidays, leads from Maxula to (3½ M.) _Goletta_ (p. 343). It runs to the N. through the isthmus, past swamps and fig-gardens, and, on the left, past large salt-ponds, where in summer salt is obtained by evaporation, and finally it skirts the sea. About an hour’s walk brings us to the steam-ferry (bac à vapeur; free) across the new _Bahira Canal_ (p. 129), opposite the station of the electric tramway to Carthage (p. 343).

We cross the _Oued Miliane_ (p. 358), below a five-arched bridge (1749; not visible from the train) and close to the shore, which is here marshy at places.

10½ M. =Hammam-Lif= (Hôt. de Paris, near the sea, plain; Terminus Hôt., near the station, humble; pop. 1000, incl. 650 Italians), formerly oftener called _Hammam el-Enf_, the ancient _Naro_, is prettily situated at the N. base of Jebel Bou-Kornin (see below). On the wooded slope, to the right of the railway, where the hot salt-springs rise (117–120° Fahr.), is the old _Dâr el-Bey_, a palace now converted into barracks, on the foundations of the Roman baths _Aquae Persianae_, so called from the founder, C. Julius Perseus. Near it is the ‘_Fondouk_‘, the modern unpretending bath-house. Of the late-Roman _Synagogue_ (3rd cent.), discovered here in 1883, scarcely a trace is left.

To the N.E. of the station is (¼ M.) the _Bathing Beach_, with a summer casino. Fine view of Goletta, the Carthage hills, and the peninsula of Cape Bon.

The *=Jebel Bou-Kornin=, or _Bou-Kournine_, so named from its two ‘horns’, the W. (1890 ft.) and the E. (1626 ft.), separated by a deep hollow, commands a splendid panorama of N. Tunisia. The W. peak, once crowned with a temple of Saturnus Balcaranenis (Saturn-Baal of Mt. Karnaïm), the most famous shrine of Baal in the land, is ascended by a new bridle-path on the E. slope or by a steep old path on the W. margin of the N. spur (925 ft.).

A little farther on we pass between the eucalyptus groves and vineyards of the estate of _Potinville_, where many negroes are employed, to (15 M.) _Bordj Cédria_. To the left we sight Jebel Korbous (see below).

The train next runs to the N.E. across the _Plain of Soliman_ (see below), a depression between the main chain of the Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and the hills of the peninsula of _Cape Bon_, passing at first through a steppe where browsing camels are often seen.

18 M. _Fondouk Djedid_, a village of immigrant settlers on the wooded spurs of _Jebel Zaïana_.

FROM FONDOUK DJEDID TO MENZEL BOU-ZELFA, 8½ M., branch-line in ¾ hr. (through-carr. from Tunis to Soliman by the morning train; return-fares 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 55 c.). Also from Tunis (Auto-Palace, p. 330) motor-omnibus Sun. and Thurs. at 8.30 a.m., in 1½ hr. (fare 8, return 10 fr.). The only intermediate station is =Soliman= (145 ft.; Hôt. Zammit, humble; pop. 2200, incl. 150 Europeans; Frid. market), a picturesque little town founded by Andalusian Moors in 1616, with a lofty minaret. Thence through venerable olive-woods to _Menzel Bou-Zelfa_ (or _Zalfa_; 197 ft.), famed for its luxuriant orchards, with a zaouïa of the Kadria brotherhood and an important cattle-market (Thurs.).

A ROAD FROM SOLIMAN, where a hotel-omnibus from Korbous meets the morning train (fare to Korbous 2, there and back 3, luggage 1 fr.; other vehicles also), leads at first to the N.E. through pleasant olive-groves, and then, beyond the _Oued Bezirk_, runs behind the low coast-dunes to _Mraïssa_, the ruins of the little Roman town of _Carpis_. At (7½ M.) the kubba of _Sidi Raïs_, near which are seen fragments of walls of the harbour of Carpis, begins the new coast-road to Korbous. This skirts the rocky slopes of _Jebel Korbous_ (1375 ft.), being strongly buttressed at places, and affords a delightful view, especially in the morning, of Tunis, the Carthage hills, and the W. shore of the bay as far as Cape Farina (p. 129). 11 M. =Korbous= (Hôt. des Thermes, R. 2–6, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.), a small watering-place, and of late a winter resort also, has hot springs (alkaline and saline, 111–151° Fahr.), an old palace of the beys situated on the shore and now used as a bath-house, and scanty ruins of the Roman baths (_Aquae Carpitanae_).

22 M. _Khanguet_, for Khanguet el-Hadjadj (p. 358); 23½ M. _Grombalia_ (154 ft.), a village of colonists; 30 M. _Bou-Arkoub_ (236 ft.). We then cross the watershed between the bay of Tunis and the _Gulf of Hammamet_.

37½ M. =Bir Bou-Rekba= (Rail. Restaurant), at the foot of bare hills, 10 min. to the W. of _Kasr ez-Zit_, the ruins of _Siagu_ (early-Christian basilica, Byzantine fort, etc.).

FROM BIR BOU-REKBA TO NABEUL, 11 M., branch-line in about ¾ hr. (1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 45 c., 1 fr.). The only intermediate station is (2½ M.) =Hammamet= (82 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, on the shore, R. 2 fr., B. 60 c., déj. or D. 2, pens. 5–6 fr., quite good; pop. 6000, incl. 200 Europeans; Wed. market), most picturesquely situated on a small headland, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station. The ramparts of the ruinous _Kasba_ (now partly a Poste Optique) afford a charming view of the bay as far as Hergla (p. 365). Pretty bathing-beach. The coast between Hammamet and Nabeul has unfortunately been entirely denuded of wood, but the climate in winter is the mildest and healthiest in Tunisia next to that of Djerba (p. 393). The lemons, mandarins, oranges, and other fruits are considered the best in the land. The finest *Fruit Gardens, some of them shaded by groups of old cypresses, lie to the W., in the direction of the ruins of _Pupput_, now called _Souk el-Abiod_, and also on the Nabeul road.—Beyond Hammamet the train crosses numerous torrents.

11 M. =Nabeul= (43 ft.; Hôt. de France, R., déj., D. 2½ fr. each, omn. ½ fr., good; Hôt. des Voyageurs; carr. to Hammamet 5–6 fr.; pop. 11,900, incl. 2000 Jews and 400 Europeans; Frid. market), with its small _Souks_ (p. 335) and pretty gardens, is the chief town on this part of the coast. Its famed old pottery is again thriving. Fayence with geometrical patterns, after Punic and late-Roman models, and porous, unglazed water-jugs (gargoulettes) are the chief products. The small _Poterie Artistique_ (Tissier’s), behind the church, is worth seeing. Pleasant walks are to the N.E. to (20 min.) _Dar-Chabane_, a purely Moslem village; to the S. to the small anchorage near the kubba _Sidi Slîmân_, or to the ruins of _Neapolis_, now largely submerged; a little seaport destroyed at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.), to which Nabeul owes its name and much of its building-material; to the E. to (3¾ M.) _El-Mamoura_, near the caverns in the _Râs Mamoura_, the N.E. boundary of the bay of Hammamet; to the N. to the (½ hr.) _Râs Tefal_, where the potters dig their clay.

The SUSA TRAIN turns to the S.E., quitting the highroad, on which, beyond _Pupput_ (see above), is the so-called _Kasr Menara_, a large Roman circular building resembling the tomb of Cæcilia Metella, the only monument of the kind in Barbary. We approach the spurs of the Sahara Atlas. All around is scanty underwood, with occasional tents of nomads and many pasturing cattle. To the left we have a glimpse of the N. coast of the bay as far as Nabeul (see above). To the W. towers _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359).

Beyond the _Oued er-Rebia_, at (49 M.) _Bou-Ficha_, begins the =Enfida=, an estate of 300,000 acres owned by the Société Franco-Africaine, the ancient granary of central Tunisia, but a wilderness for centuries after the irruption of the Beni Hilal (p. 323). Among the farm-labourers are many Sicilians. There are still, however, great desolate tracts, dotted with Roman ruins and old irrigation-works, inhabited only by the nomadic _Oulad Saïd_, descendants of the Hilalides.

54½ M. _Aïn-Hallouf_, near the ruins of _Aphrodisium_, now _Sidi Khalifa_ and _Henchir Fradiz_, close to the salt-marshes of the _Sebkha Djiriba_, which are 19 M. long.

62 M. =Enfidaville= (131 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. d’Enfidaville, déj. 2½ fr., well spoken of; pop. 6700, incl. 500 Europeans), a rising town of colonists, the largest in the Enfida, is a pretty oasis of trees and vegetable-gardens. Alfa (p. 171) is largely exported. Near the station is a village of nomad-tents.

Above the Zaghouan road (p. 359), about 4 M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Takroun_ (657 ft.), is perched the interesting Berber village of _Takrouna_ (pop. about 500), not easily accessible.—In the valley of the _Oued Boul_, 7½ M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Garci_, rises the chalybeate spring of _Aïn-Garci_, on the site of the Roman _Aggersel_.—Some 9½ M. to the S.E. of Enfidaville lies _Hergla_ (reached also by a branch of the road from Sidi Bou-Ali; see p. 366), the ancient _Horrea Caelia_, the corn-mart and export-harbour of the Enfida.

The steppe-like character of the landscape again asserts itself. Wild asparagus abounds. To the right in the distance are the bare hills of central Tunisia behind Kairwan (p. 372). 71 M. _Menzel Dar el-Bouar_, not far from the _Sebkha Halk el-Menzel_. On the road, to the N.E. of the station, is an ancient Berber cemetery, with numerous dolmens (p. 324), mostly ruined of late.

76½ M. _Sidi Bou-Ali_, a smiling oasis, with olive and fruit-trees and a few date-palms. We again traverse a stony hill-region, dotted with stunted olive-trees, and then descend into the thickly peopled _Sahel_ (see below), with its many thriving little towns.

85 M. _Kalaâ-Kebira_ (161 ft.; pop. 6500). To the left, farther on, we see the little town of _Akouda_, on a low hill; then the distant _Hammam-Sousse_ in the valley of the _Oued Laya_.

88 M. _Kalaâ-Srira_ (181 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), on the right bank of the Oued Laya, where visitors for Kairwan (R. 58) change carriages. Our train descends the _Oued Kharoub Valley_ to the E. to the coast, with a view of the sea on the left.

93 M. =Susa.=—The STATION (Pl. B, C, 1) for Tunis, Kairwan (R. 58), Mehdia (p. 369), and for the future line to Sfax (R. 59), is in Boul. René Millet, 3–5 min. from the hotels, or 6 min. from the quay.

ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. R. 64). The steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (office, Banque de Tunisie, see below), the Società Nazionale (agent, Rue Villedon), and the Comp. de Navigation Mixte (Rue Jules-Ferry 4) all moor at the N. quay (Pl. D, 2). Harbour-tax 4 or 3 fr.—Cabs, see below.