Part 53
The train crosses the plain, to the N., towards the _Garaet Ichkeul_ or _Achkel_, the _Sisara Lacus_ of the ancients, a freshwater-lake abounding in fish, but very shallow and rapidly filling up. On the S. side is a marshy tract where within the last few decades a large herd of half-wild Italian buffaloes has sprung up. Above it towers _Jebel Ichkeul_ (1667 ft.), noted for its marble, the chief landmark of the bay of Bizerta.
50 M. _Oued-Tindja_ (Hôt. de la Gare) lies on the strip of land, barely 2 M. broad, between Lake Ichkeul and the =Lac de Bizerte= (Arabic _Garaet Tindja_). The latter, the ancient _Lacus Hipponensis_, ca. 30,000 acres in area and 40 ft. deep at places, is now the chief French naval harbour on the Mediterranean next to Toulon.
A strategic railway and a road (omn. 20 c.) lead to the E. from Oued-Tindja to (2 M.) =Ferryville= (Hôt. de l’Amirauté; Hôt. de l’Arsenal; pop. 3000, largely Italian dock-labourers), the youngest town in Tunisia, named after Jules Ferry (p. 333), and to (2¾ M.) the small bay of _Sidi-Abdallah_, on which, 9½ M. from the open sea, a _Naval Arsenal_, with five large dry-docks, was built in 1899–1908.
The train crosses the _Oued Tindja_, the sinuous effluent of Lake Ichkeul, and rounds the marshy W. bank of Lake Bizerta. 55½ M. _Sidi-Ahmed_, opposite _Djezira el-Kebira_, the largest island in the lake.
59 M. _La Pêcherie_, on the _Goulet_, a narrow arm of the sea to the N., which, with the new harbour-canal (p. 353), connects the dockyard with the open sea. On the small _Baie Ponty_, now used as a torpedo-boat station, rise the _Arsenal de la Défense-Mobile_ and the handsome _Amirauté_.
A road leads to the S. from the station through olive-woods to (½ M.) the =Barrage des Pêcheries=, two fish-dams about 1000 yds. long, adjoining the S.W. end of the Goulet (here 55 yds. across), where the fish descending from the lakes to spawn in the sea are caught in great numbers. The yield, a few years ago ca. 580 tons, but now much reduced, is sent to Tunis and Marseilles.
We pass the _Baie de Sebra_, the inner harbour of Bizerta, as yet little used, and the _Artillery Arsenal_, intersect the new S. wall of the town and the garden-suburb of _Bijouville_, and reach the station of (61 M.) _Bizerta_, on the harbour-canal.
=Bizerta.=—_Railway Restaurant._—HOTELS (comp. p. 324). *_Grand-Hotel_, Place d’Europe, in an open site near the station, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10–12, omn. ½ fr.; _Hôt. de la Paix_, _Hôt. de France_, etc.—CAB. Drive 30, for 3 pers. 40, with pair 50 c.; hour 1–1¼ or 1½–2 fr.; ½ day (6 hrs.) 4, 5, or 7 fr.; whole day (12 hrs.) 6, 7, 12, or 14 fr.
BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Hon. T. Bourke_, Rue de Provence.
_Bizerta_, Fr. _Bizerte_, Arabic _Bent-Zert_ (pop. 17,300, of whom 9500 are Moslems, 5100 Italians and Maltese), a town strongly garrisoned with 7000 men, the ancient _Hippo Diarrhytus_ (_Zarytus_), was one of the earliest Phœnician settlements on the Tunisian coast. It lies on the W. shore of the _Bay of Bizerta_, between a range of hills on the N.W., culminating in _Jebel Kebir_ (900 ft.), and a strip of land (once bounding the Bizerta Lake, and also fortified), to the S.E., beyond the harbour-canal.
The old town, to which many Moors flocked after the fall of Granada (p. 75), and which was occupied for a short time by Charles V. on his way back from Tunis in 1535 (p. 323) and was to a great extent destroyed by a Venetian fleet in 1785, rises on the hill-side between the ruined _Kasba_ and the _Fort d’Espagne_, both originally built by the Spaniards. The _Old Harbour_, unimportant in ancient times, became in the 16th cent. a favourite haunt of pirates, but is now used by fishing-boats only. Of the _Old Harbour Canal_, completely choked up with the mud of centuries, the mouth alone now exists. The new town, with its busy market (Tues. and Thurs.), is still in embryo.
The _Avant-Port_, 215 acres in area, constructed by the Compagnie du Port de Bizerte in 1890–5, is sheltered by two piers, the Jetée du Nord (1337 yds. long) and the Jetée du Sud (1041 yds.), and by a new mole or breakwater (670 yds.). The commercial harbour consists of the _New Harbour Canal_, 1 M. long, 263 yds. broad, and 33 ft. deep, the entrance to the Goulet (p. 352), and also of the Baie de Sebra (p. 352). Two steam-ferries (bacs à vapeur; passage free) cross to the N.E. bank of the canal, where there are large coal-stores near the village of _Zarzouna_.
The HIGH ROAD FROM TUNIS TO (37½ M.) BIZERTA diverges to the N., between the Bardo (p. 339) and Kassar-Saïd (p. 342), from the road connecting Tebourba with Medjez el-Bab (p. 328), intersects the Roman *Aqueduct of Carthage (p. 348), which was here restored in the 16th cent., and ascends through olive-woods to the saddle (269 ft.) between the hills of Ariana (p. 338), on the right, and _Jebel Ahmar_ (1060 ft.), on the left.
10 M. _La Sebala_ lies on the S. edge of the marshy Medjerda delta (p. 129), now called _Sebala_. 16 M. _Fondouk el-Kantara_, a caravanserai on the right bank of the Medjerda, near the old seven-arched bridge.
Just beyond (19½ M.) _Oued Cherchara_ a road branches off, to the N.E., past the spurs of _Jebel Menzel Roul_ (541 ft.), once a cape, to (2 M.) the ruins of =Utica=, the earliest Phœnician settlement in this region. Before the rise of Carthage it was the richest trading town in Barbary, and from 146 to 29 B.C. it was the capital of the province of Africa and seat of the Roman proconsul. It was here that the younger Cato committed suicide (46 B.C.) on the overthrow of Pompey’s party in the civil war against Cæsar. The harbour, entirely silted up since the middle of the 3rd cent., lay between the cape and a small island off the coast. The sea is now 5½ M., and the mouth of the Medjerda, near the Porto-Farina lagoon (p. 354), is nearly 10 M. distant. The Roman town was destroyed by Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. 322) in 698, at the same time as Carthage. The ruins, now called _Henchir Bou-Chateur_, consist chiefly of the aqueduct and cisterns, a theatre, a vast amphitheatre, and large thermæ.
Beyond Jebel Menzel Roul the Bizerta road traverses a desolate plain, strewn with Roman ruins. On the S.E. side of _Jebel Kechbata_ (1370 ft.), and also in the marshy plain beyond it, roads diverge to the right (one 12½, the other 15 M.) to =Porto-Farina= (pop. 1400, incl. 320 Europeans, mostly Maltese), the _Ruscinona_ of antiquity, a notorious pirates’ harbour in the Turkish period. In 1665 it was destroyed by an English fleet, but it was restored and fortified by Ahmed Bey (1837–55). Potatoes are largely cultivated in the neighbourhood. The _Lac de Porto-Farina_, on the S. side of _Jebel Nadour_ (883 ft.), once abounding in fish, has been filled up by the deposits of the Medjerda since the middle of last century.
Beyond the dunes of _Aïn Bou-Ras_, where the new water-conduit of Bizerta, 8½ M. long, has its source, our road runs close to the lake of Bizerta, passes (34½ M.) _Menzel Djemil_, and ends on the old neck of land on the harbour-canal of (37½ M.) _Bizerta_ (see p. 353).
55. From Tunis to Dougga (_Le Kef_).
Excursionists to Dougga usually start from the station of _Medjez el-Bab_ (Hôt. des Colons; p. 328), 41 M. by train from the S. Station at Tunis (in 1¼–2½ hrs.; fares 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 95, return 10 fr. 35, 7 fr. 85, 5 fr. 55 c.). Thence by motor-omnibus (starting every morning; 5 fr.) to Dougga direct. Or we may take a carriage (30 fr.; ordered in advance at the Hôt. des Colons) or the diligence (6 hrs.; 2½ fr.) from Medjez el-Bab to (28 M.) _Teboursouk_, whence we go on to (3¾ M.) Dougga by carr. (5–6 fr.) or on mule-back (3–4 fr.).—The journey may be made also from the station of _Pont-de-Trajan_ (p. 327; 66½ M. by railway in 2¾–4 hrs.; fares 12 fr., 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 40 c.); ride thence (mule being ordered beforehand at Béja, p. 328) viâ _Henchir Maâtria_ to (17½ M.) Teboursouk; or from the station of _Gaffour_ (p. 360; 75 M. in 4½–5½ hrs.; fares 13 fr. 55, 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 25 c.); ride thence across _Jebel Sidi Abdallah Ben-Cheid_ to (19 M.) Teboursouk.
The excursion from Tunis to Dougga and back, in one day, is far more easily made by motor-car (p. 330). Motoring parties are occasionally formed at the tourist offices (p. 331).
From Tunis to (41 M.) _Medjez el-Bab_ by railway, see pp. 329, 328.—The two roads from Tunis to Medjez el-Bab, one direct (35½ M.) viâ _Bordj el-Amri_, the other, passing the station and running viâ _Djedeïda_ and _Tebourba_ (p. 329), unite on the left bank of the Medjerda, near the bridge (p. 328).
Our road leads from Medjez el-Bab in the same direction as the Roman road from Carthage to Tebessa (see p. 328), to the S.W., generally a little apart from the Medjerda, past a good many Roman ruins. 9 M. _Slouguia_ (299 ft.; the ancient _Chidibbia_), a village with a slender minaret, lies on a hill on the right bank.
The road then leads through olive-woods and vineyards to (12 M.) =Testour=, on the site of the Roman _Tichilla_, now a little town of 3500 inhab., mostly descendants of Andalusian Moors, with thriving potteries and a large Friday market.
We cross the _Oued Siliana_, not far from its influx into the Medjerda, and then ascend in long windings above the valley of the _Oued Khalled_, a tributary of the Medjerda.
18 M. _Aïn-Tounga_ (821 ft.; no inn), on the N. slope of _Jebel Tounga_ (1575 ft.), the site of the small Roman town of _Thignica_, has the ruins of two triumphal arches, a temple of =Mercury= (170 A.D.), and a Byzantine fortress.
We descend, in sight of Teboursouk and the distant capitol of Dougga, into the valley of the Oued Khalled. We pass through many side-valleys, cross the river, and then ascend a branch of the road to the right, soon joining the Gaffour road (p. 360).
28 M. =Teboursouk= (1378 ft.; Hôt. International, R. 3½) B. ½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10 fr., quite good, but charges should be agreed upon beforehand; Hôt. de la Poste, humble; pop. 3000, (incl. 300 Europeans) has a fine open site on the olive-clad slope of _Kef Teboursouk_, high above the valley of the _Oued Zebbès_. Into the walls of the narrow and picturesque streets are built many fragments from the ruins of the once considerable town of _Thubursicum Bure_. We note also the _Byzantine Fortress_ (with remains of a Roman triumphal arch in its N. wall) and the _Neo-Punic Burial Ground_, to the S.W. of the town. A superb distant view is obtained at the ruined tower at the upper end of the town.
The rough, hilly road from _Pont-de-Trajan_ (p. 327) to Teboursouk leads through the rugged hill-region to the S. of the Medjerda, and passes (12½ M.) _Henchir Maâtria_, the ruins of the small Roman town of _Numluli_ or _Numiulis_ (foundations of the capitol of 170 A.D., early-Christian chapel in quatrefoil form with four apses, and Byzantine fort). It ends at the N. gate of (17½ M.) _Teboursouk_.
The ROAD TO DOUGGA, 3¾ M. from Teboursouk, leaves the Le Kef road (p. 357) after ½ M. and ascends to the S.W. over a plateau thinly overgrown with scrub.
=Dougga= (about 1970 ft.), a poor Berber village on the S. margin of _Kef Dougga_, is the ancient _Thugga_, one of the oldest and most important places in the heart of Tunisia. The site of the ruins, which vie with those of Gightis (p. 392), is the most beautiful in the whole country. The name is of Berber origin (_thukka_, pasture). It appears to have been the seat of a Berber dynasty allied with Carthage. It then belonged successively to the Carthaginian dominions and to those of Masinissa (p. 321), and attained its prime about the end of the 2nd cent. A.D. The grand late-Roman ruins, partly excavated since 1891, the venerable olive-woods on Kef Dougga, and the view of the Oued Khalled valley and of the N. Tunisian hills, stretching far away to Jebel Zaghouan and Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. 363), combine to form a fascinating picture. On the N.W. horizon is _Jebel Gorra_ (3160 ft.), famed ever since ancient times for its lead and zinc mines.
Comp. ‘Thugga’, by _Dr. Carton_ (Tunis; 2½ fr.).
The old _Porte de l’Est_, where a branch of the Tebessa road ended, and the _Thermae_ near it are entirely ruined.
From that gate we walk along the S. slope of the hill to the *=Mausoleum= of a Berber prince (5th or 4th cent. B.C.), probably the oldest existing Punic-Libyan monument of the kind.
Built in the style of the Egyptian and Syrian tombs of kings, the mausoleum, originally about 55 ft. high, consisted of a pile of huge limestone blocks. The substructure, resting on a foundation of six steps, is adorned with narrow corner-pillars and three blind windows. The middle part, which is square, rises above three steps and has two portals flanked with Ionic mural columns and an Egyptian concave moulding instead of a cornice. Three more steps, once embellished at the angles with figures on horseback, bore a small pyramid crowned with the figure of a lion. The upper part was unfortunately destroyed in 1842 by natives employed by Sir T. Reade, with the bey’s permission, to remove the inscription in the Phœnician and the Libyan language, which is now in the British Museum. The monument, however, has been recently completely restored The tomb-chamber is probably underneath the monument.
Passing through the village, to the W., we come to the ruins of other _Thermae_ and the so-called _Dâr el-Acheb_, a Roman building of some kind, of which the steps and façade alone remain. We ascend thence to the N.E., past the foundations of _Roman Houses_, to the hill of the Capitol.
The *=Capitol= (comp. p. 288), the conspicuous landmark of Dougga, is one of the finest ruined temples in Tunisia, vying with the three temples of Sbeïtla (p. 371). It is a Corinthian pseudo-peripteros, with a lofty flight of eleven steps and a portico of six columns, 43 ft. high and 24 ft. deep, the whole consisting of great limestone blocks. The square cella, 15 by 14 yds., has been destroyed, with the exception of the portal and the stone-panelled back-wall, with its semicircular niche in the centre and two square side-niches for images. The inscription on the frieze of the portico, of the time of Marcus Aurelius (166–9 A.D.), names two citizens of Thugga as the founders. In the Byzantine period the temple formed the nucleus of the citadel.
The **=Roman Theatre=, on the hill-side a little to the E. of the Capitol, is not only the best-preserved in N. Africa but is unique in the richness and beauty of its embellishment. The twenty-five tiers of seats in the Cavea, or auditorium, are almost intact, except that the upper colonnade has fallen into the orchestra. The stage (pulpitum) still has the old pavement, the front-wall, articulated like similar structures in Algeria, and the superb rear wall, with its three niches and remains of rich columnar decoration. The founder of the building, as recorded by the inscription now lying on the ground, was the flamen perpetuus L. Marcius Quadratus.
Of the _Forum_ and of the street connecting it with the Capitol fragments of the pavement only have been unearthed.
The *=Temple of Cælestis=, in the olive-wood to the N.W. of the Capitol, is the strangest ruin at Dougga. The crescent-shaped court represents the half-moon, the symbol of the Punic goddess Tanit, or Astarte, whose name was Latinized in the Roman period.
The ruin stands on the hill-side, supported by huge substructures. The court terminated in a rectangular antechamber, 46 by 20 yds. The two entrances, with dedicatory inscriptions, lay at the sides, preceded by square chambers (or towers). The semicircular wall of the court (57 yds. in diameter), in concrete, is partly preserved. A large hall here, with two corner-pillars and twenty-three Corinthian columns, formed along with the antechamber the meeting-place of the congregation. The temple itself, in the centre of the court, which was probably planted with trees, was a rectangle of 18½ by 10½ yds., but its foundations alone survive. The flight of steps and the two semicircular apses at the back of the cella date from a restoration in the Byzantine period. The inscription names a wealthy citizen of the time of Alex. Severus as the founder (222–35).
We next walk through olive-wood to the E. to the _Roman Cisterns_, once fed by the partly preserved aqueduct of Aïn el-Hammam (S.W. of Dougga), and then, past the ancient N. gate of the town, the _Arch of Alexander Severus_, called by the Arabs _Bâb er-Rûmia_ (‘gate of the Christian woman’), to the ruins of the _Numidic Citadel_ and the _Roman Hippodrome_. Near this is the ancient _Berber Burial Ground_, containing several dolmens.
On the steep slope of a bare hill to the N.N.E. of the Theatre, and once no less conspicuous than the Capitol, was enthroned the =Temple of Saturn=, founded by a rich citizen in 195 A.D. The ruin probably stands on the site of a Punic temple of Baal Hâman. The peculiar ground-plan is reminiscent of the Phœnician temples, whose open colonnaded courts contained altars for burnt offerings.
The pronaos or vestibule, resembling a corridor, to which there was an approach at the S. end only, had a portico of four Corinthian columns facing the E., high above the Oued Khalled; but of all this there are but scanty traces. From the pronaos a small gate admitted into a quadrangle, paved with limestone slabs, and enclosed on three sides by Corinthian colonnades. On the W. side these were divided by partitions into three sections, forming ante-rooms to the three cellæ. The raised central cella, once railed in, was the chief shrine, richly adorned with wall-paintings and reliefs in stucco.
* * * * *
THE HIGH ROAD (FROM MEDJEZ EL-BAB) TO LE KEF, which is joined by the road from Teboursouk 3 M. to the S. of the latter, runs high above the Oued Khalled, and soon passes (32 M. from Medjez el-Bab) _Aïn-Hedja_ (about 1300 ft.), below the ruins of _Agbia_ (Byzantine fortress, etc.). Farther on, leaving the zinc-mines of _Jebel Fedj el-Adoum_ on one side, we traverse the hill-country to the N.W. of the _Plaine du Krib_ (p. 360).
38 M. _Aïn-Rharsalla_ (about 1600 ft.), below the Byzantine castle of _Aunobaris_. 39 M. _Kubba Sidi Abd er-Rehou_, not far from _Henchir Mest_, the ruins of _Mustis_ (including two arches on the Tebessa road, one being a triumphal arch of Gordian III.).
46 M. _Bordj Messaoudi_, a large caravanserai, with Friday market for the peasants of the Krib, adjoins the ruins of the small town of _Thacia_, near which the Roman road to Le Kef diverged from the road to Tebessa. We descend into the valley of the _Oued Tessa_, a tributary of the Oued Mellègue (p. 327), and then, on the N. slope of _Jebel Kebouch_ (2723 ft.), pass a _Roman Bridge_ and the ruins of _Ucubis_.
The road now skirts the _Dyr el-Kef_ (3570 ft.; ‘rock-plateau’), with its Poste Optique, and in the plain of _Bled Zafran_ (p. 360) joins the road from Maktar (p. 360) and, a little farther on, that from Souk el-Arba (p. 326).
70 M. _Le Kef_, see p. 360.
56. From Tunis to Le Kef and Kalaâ-Djerda.
FROM TUNIS TO LE KEF, 125½ M., railway, two trains daily in 8¼–9 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 60, 17 fr. 15, 12 fr. 10 c.); also local trains from Tunis to Pont-du-Fahs and Gaffour.—FROM TUNIS TO KALAÂ-DJERDA, 146 M., two trains daily in 10–11 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 30 c., 20 fr., 14 fr. 10 c.); also a local train between Gaffour and Kalaâ-Djerda.—Railway Restaurants at Gaffour and Les Salines only.
_Tunis_, see p. 329. Our line diverges, to the S.E., near Bab Alleoua (p. 339), from the Algeria and Bizerta line (RR. 51, 54) and skirts Lake Bahira below the _Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen_ (p. 339).
2½ M. _Djebel-Djelloud_, close to the _Jebel Djelloud_ (138 ft.) is the junction for Susa (R. 57) and has railway-works, large quarries, and lime-kilns.
The train now runs to the N.E. to (5 M.) _Bir-Kassa_.
BRANCH LINE TO LA LAVERIE (17½ M. from Tunis, in ca. 1¾ hr.; 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 40 c.; many stops). Beyond (6 M. from Tunis) _Bordj-Gourbel_ the _Oued Miliane_ (p. 363) is crossed. On the right bank is the fertile, olive-clad _Plaine du Mornag_. 13 M. _Haut-Mornag-Crétéville_, at the S. base of _Jebel Bou-Kornin_ (p. 363). Crétéville lies on the road from Tunis to Grombalia (p. 364), near the grand _Khanguet el-Hadjadj_ (‘pilgrim-pass’), a deep ravine between Jebel Bou-Kornin and Jebel Ressas (see below), through which formerly passed the traffic between the interior and the harbours on the E. seaboard. In this defile, now clothed with vineyards, lay the little town of _Neferis_, which was destroyed by the Romans at the same time as Carthage. 17½ M. (from Tunis) _La Laverie_ (377 ft.) is a village of Italian miners, at the W. foot of _Jebel Ressas_ (2608 ft.; ‘lead-mountain’), where lead-mines were already worked in Roman times.
Beyond (8 M.) _Nassen_ we cross the Miliane. 12½ M. _Khledia._
15 M. =Oudna.= In the hill-country, ½ hr. to the S.E., is the large Ferme Ducroquet, situated among the ruins of _Uthina_, one of the wealthiest towns of N. Tunisia in the Roman age. Of the public buildings nothing remains but the _Cisterns_ and scanty traces of the _Theatre_ and _Amphitheatre_. Among the ruins of private houses is the _Palace of the Laberii_ (end of 3rd cent. A.D.), a fine specimen of a sumptuous African-Roman dwelling, with a large peristyle as its centre (comp. p. 290) and numerous mosaics (now mostly in the Bardo Museum). The adjoining Balineum (baths) was long used, from the 5th cent. onwards, as a potter’s workshop. Fine view from the highest hill (407 ft.); on a lower hill is a _Byzantine Fortress_.
Beyond Oudna the line intersects the Roman *_Aqueduct of Carthage_ (p. 359), in a landscape bright with flowers in spring.
17½ M. _Bou er-Rébia_, on the Tunis and Zaghouan road (p. 359).
22½ M. _Djebel-Oust_ lies at the N. base of _Jebel Oust_ (1800 ft.), on which are noteworthy remains of two large piscinæ, Roman irrigation-works, and marble quarries, worked since ancient times.
30½ M. _Smindja_ or _Depienne_ (450 ft.), a village of ‘colonists’ in the _Plaine de Smindja_, a dale, containing numerous ruins, at the foot of the Zaghouan hills.
BRANCH LINE TO ZAGHOUAN (8 M., in ½ hr.; fares 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c., 75 c.; return-ticket from Tunis 9 fr. 75, 7 fr. 35, 5 fr. 20 c.). At _Moghrane_ (525 ft.), the only intermediate station, the two Roman aqueducts and the modern conduits (p. 339) from Jebel Zaghouan and Jebel Djouggar unite.
The ROAD FROM TUNIS TO ZAGHOUAN (34½ M.) leads past the _Abattoirs_ (beyond Pl. E, 7) and the _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_ (p. 332) to (8 M.) _La Mohamédia_, a poor village, with the decayed residence of Ahmed Bey (p. 344). It crosses the Oued Miliane near the arches of the Roman aqueduct, here 66 ft. high, and beyond _Bou er-Rébia_ (p. 358) leads along the E. slope of Jebel Oust to (34½ M.) Zaghouan. A branch of the road from La Mohamédia, passing _Oudna_ (p. 358), also leads to Zaghouan.
=Zaghouan= (821 ft.; Hôt. de France, déj. 3 fr., plain but quite good, orders should be given in advance; pop. 1200, incl. 530 Europeans, mostly Ital.), Arab. _Zaghwân_, a charming place, specially in spring, lies amidst olives, oranges, and cypresses on a terrace at the foot of Jebel Zaghouan (see below), ¼ hr. above the station. The Roman _Triumphal Arch_, at the entrance to the village, is the sole relic of the small town of _Onellana_ (_?_); the columns of the nymphæum now adorn the _Chief Mosque_.