Part 6

=Tramways= (_Carris de Ferro_) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do Arsenal to the Largo do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets bearing the word ‘_paragem_’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone 10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special importance.

1. ‘RIO DE JANEIRO’ CAR [‘ROCIO’]: _Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade_ (Pl. F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5) - Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (_Circulação completa_) 50 rs.

2. ‘RUA GOMES FREIRE’ CAR [‘GRAÇA’]: _Rocio_ - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4) - Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - _Sé_ (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - _São Vicente de Fora_ (Pl. H, 4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl. H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro (Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo (Pl. F, 1), and the _Avenida_ (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs.

3. ‘LARGO DAS DUAS EGREJAS’ CAR [‘ESTRELLA’]: Upper end of _Rua Garrett_ (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - _Largo da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) - Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D, 1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E, 2, 3) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett.

=Steamers= to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America, etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the _Messageries Maritimes_ from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_ for Madeira, and the _Empreza Insulana de Navegação_ for the Azores (comp. also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African, Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, _E. George_ (p. 9); for the Compañía Trasatlántica, _H. Burnay & Co._

=Banks.= _London & Brazilian_, Rua do Commercio 96; _Crédit Franco-Portugais_, Rua Augusta 61; _Banco de Portugal_, Rua Aurea (entr. Rua do Commercio 148); _Weinstein & Co._, Rua do Commercio 49 (1st floor).

=Theatres= (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called _camarotes_, stalls _cadeiras_, the pit _platéa géral_). _Theatro de São Carlos_ (Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet; _Theatro da Republica_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; _Nacional_ (Pl. F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places for variety entertainments.

=Bull Ring= (_Praça de Touros_; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets at Praça dos Restauradores 18.

=British Minister=, _Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers_, Rua São Francisco de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—=U. S. Minister=, _Henry T. Gage_, Largo do Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4).

=Consuls.= British, _P. A. Somers Cocks_, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26; vice-consul, _H. E. Jones_.—U. S. Consul-General, _Louis H. Aymé_, Avenida da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, _H. E. Bradford_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Rawes & Co._, Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F, 5).

=Goods Agent.= _E. George_, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—TOURIST AGENTS, _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5).

=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, _Rev. E. P. Lewis, D. D._—_Presbyterian_ (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 & 7.30; minister, _Rev. R. M. Lithgow_.

=Club.= _Royal British Club_, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B, 4), also for temporary members.

=Sights.= THE CHURCHES, few of which are interesting, are open from 7 to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m.

_Museu d’Artilheria_ (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free.

_Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes_ (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden.

_Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free.

Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain a general survey of the town. The _Graça Church_ (p. 13; *View) should be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon, _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) or _Estrella Church_ (p. 12). The trip to _Belem_ (p. 14) should on no account be omitted.

TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon: _Praça do Commercio_ and _Rocio_ (pp. 10, 11); _Avenida da Liberdade_ (p. 11); *_Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11); *_Botanic Garden_ (p. 11); _Estrella Church_ (p. 12; *View). Afternoon: _Belem_ (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *_Cintra_ (p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8.

_Lisbon_, Portuguese _Lisbóa_, the capital of the new republic of Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N. lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad _Bay of the Tagus_, which forms an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces, affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with Naples and Constantinople.

The town, which is girdled by the _Estrada da Circumvallação_, a road 5 M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or _Lisboa Oriental_, on the slope of the _Collina do Castello_. On the low ground between the old town and the new is the _Cidade Baixa_, which has sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is _Lisboa Occidental_, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks, constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in 1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America.

The ancient name of Lisbon was _Ulisipo_ or _Olisipo_, which led early Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously, with the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera (711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it _Aloshbuna_ or _Lishbuna_. In 1147 it was retaken by king _Affonso Henriques_, aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M. Stephens).

The importance of Lisbon began under _Affonso III._ (1248–79), who transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and the conquest of India by _Francisco d’Almeida_ (d. 1510) and _Affonso de Albuquerque_ (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892, Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German _Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary_, consort of _Queen Maria II._, and to his sons, _Pedro V._ (1853–61) and _Luis I._ (1861–89). Party strife in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister _João Franco_, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of _Carlos I._ and the crown-prince _Luis Philippe_ (comp. p. 14). Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as _Manuel II._ He had, however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the provisional government _Theophilo Braga_. The republican colours are green and red.

a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental.

Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the =Praça do Commercio= (Pl. F, 5). In the centre of the square rises an _Equestrian Statue of Joseph I._ (1750–77); on the S. side is the _Caes das Columnas_, a quay affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping, and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in the distance.

To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned =Cidade Baixa= (‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua Aurea lies the—

PRAÇA DE DOM PEDRO QUARTO (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called =O Rocío=, one of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze _Statue of Pedro IV._ (d. 1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of _Igreja do Carmo_, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the ‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the _Theatro Nacional_ (p. 8). The _Market_ in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the E., deserves a visit in the early morning.

From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the _Central Station_ (p. 6) to the *=Avenida da Liberdade= (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is the Praça dos Restauradores, with the _Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal_, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish ‘Intrusos’ was shaken off.

To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7) ascends to the *=Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara= (Pl. E, F, 3), where we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa.

From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of _São Roque_, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom Pedro Quinto to the—

PRAÇA DO RIO DE JANEIRO (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in =Lisboa Occidental=. From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella church (p. 12) and the Tagus.

Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the _Rua da Escola Polytechnica_ to the POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an interesting _Natural History Museum_ (entrance on the N.W. side), an _Observatory_, and a _Meteorological Station_. To the Polytechnic belongs also the—

*=Botanic Garden= (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. angle of the Polytechnic, and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part are the _Estufas_ or greenhouses.

We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town. From the _Campo dos Martyres da Patria_ (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma (funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below.

We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular.

From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the LARGO DO RATO (Pl. D, 1) to the _Aqueducto das Aguas Livres_, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to _Buenos Ayres_, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the _Jardim da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 2).

The =Estrella Church= (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the _Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús_, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up.

The *ASCENT OF THE DOME (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the _Lantern_, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean.

The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the =English Cemetery= (_Cemiterio dos Inglezes_; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of _Henry Fielding_ (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the _English Church_ (p. 9).

To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the _Palacio das Côrtes_ (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the PRAÇA DE LUIS DE CAMÕES (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet _Camões_ (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen.

From the Praça de Camões we return through the RUA GARRETT and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. 11).

* * * * *

Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to =Lisboa Oriental=, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of—

NOSSA SENHORA DA GRAÇA (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below).

We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to the (5 min.) chapel of NOSSA SENHORA DO MONTE (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.). The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon, the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém.

From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends to the old Augustinian monastery of =São Vicente de Fóra= (Pl. H, 4), now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters contain the _Pantheon Real_, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards.

We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the CASTELLO DE SÃO JORGE (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S. Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the—

=Sé Patriarchal= (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in 1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town.

b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem.

In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio (p. 10), rises the church of—

=Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha= (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of _Nossa Senhora da Misericordia_, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of the _Casa dos Bicos_, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways proceed farther to the _Arsenal do Exército_ (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing the _Artillery Museum_ on the first floor (adm., see p. 9).

From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which stands a so-called _Pelourinho_, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic jurisdiction.

The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the =Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes= (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by _Alb. Dürer_.)

The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the _Mercado_, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early morning.

The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the suburb of _Junqueira_ to that of =Belem= (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F. Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height, of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the PAÇO DE BELEM. In the S.E. corner of the building is the _Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages.

Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the PRAÇA DE VASCO DA GAMA, with the famous—

**=Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem= (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an orphanage (_Casa Pia_) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with _motifs_ from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies.

The church of _Santa Maria_, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which, according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage and to the grand *_Cloisters_, the master-work of João de Castilho.

On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *=Tower of Belem= (_Torre de Belem_), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the river (best viewed at a distance).

c. Excursion to Cintra.

17½ M. RAILWAY (in ¾–1 hr.). Nine expresses in summer, besides several slow trains (tranvias), but fewer in winter (fares 530, 360, 230 rs.), starting from the _Central Station_ (p. 6).

The train passes through a tunnel 1½ M. long to (3¾ M.) _Campolide_ in the valley of the Alcántara. To the left are the arches of the aqueduct (p. 12). At (13 M.) _Cacem_ our line diverges to the left from the railway to Alfarellos (Coimbra and Oporto).

The country becomes more hilly; eucalypti, pines, and olives abound. To the left rise the hills of Cintra.

17½ =M. Cintra.=—HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Costa_, _Netto_, _Lawrence_, _Nunes_, _Central_, déj. or D. 800 rs., some closed in winter.

TRAMWAY from the station (to the left of the exit) to the Praça da Republica (20 rs.).—CABS (good; with two horses) to the Castello da Pena 2500 rs.; to the Quinta do Monserrate and back, 2000 rs.; but lower fares are often accepted on application to the cab-owner himself.