Part 5

1. TO GIBRALTAR DIRECT. The chief Steamboat Lines (offices, comp. pp. xviii-xx) are the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, once weekly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said, etc.; the _Orient Royal Line_, fortnightly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the _North German Lloyd_, fortnightly from Southampton to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the _Anchor Line_ almost weekly from Liverpool or Glasgow for Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Port Said, etc.; fares to Gibraltar in all these from 12_l._ 2_s._ downwards. Less expensive are the _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.’s_ steamers, fortnightly from London; and from Liverpool, the _Moss Line_ fortnightly and the _Papayanni Line_ occasionally; fares in all these range from 6_l._ to 8_l._

2. COASTING STEAMERS. _Hall Line_, weekly from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz; the _Pacific Line_, fortnightly from Liverpool to La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America (passengers for the Mediterranean requiring of course to tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent); the _Nederland Royal Mail Steamers_, fortnightly from Southampton for the Mediterranean and Batavia, touch at Lisbon, and so also those of the _Rotterdam Lloyd_, fortnightly from Southampton, for Tangier, the Mediterranean, and Batavia; _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon; _Booth Line_, thrice monthly from Liverpool to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), etc.; _Ellerman Line_, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto; the steamers of the _German East African Line_, once every three weeks from Southampton, call at Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, and Naples, on their way to Port Said; the Atlantic liners of the _Hamburg-American_ and _Hamburg & South American Cos._, calling several times monthly at Southampton, also touch occasionally at Lisbon; _Royal Holland Lloyd_, monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc.; the vessels of the _Compañía Trasatlántica_, monthly from Liverpool, call at Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, Cartagena, Valencia, Barcelona, and Genoa, on their voyages to Colombo and Manila.

3. EXCURSION STEAMERS. Many of the above companies and others besides organize Mediterranean cruises and circular tours at very reasonable fares, whereby everything is made easy and comfortable; but the more enterprising and independent traveller will greatly prefer to piece his tour together for himself, combining the various routes to suit his own convenience, and often lingering for days in profoundly impressive historic places or amid glorious scenery, where the hurriedly conducted tourist can spend a few hours only. Among the excursion steamers may be mentioned the ‘Vectis’ of the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, which offers a trip of 10 days from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Tangier, Málaga, and Marseilles for 10–15 guineas, and another, of 21 days, from Marseilles to Palermo, Constantinople, the Piræus, Naples, and Marseilles, for 21–40 _gs._ Similar cruises are offered by the _Cunard Line_, starting from Liverpool for the Mediterranean and Adriatic, the _Orient Royal Line_ from London (20 days; fares from 18 _gs._), and by ‘_Continental Travel_’ (5 Endsleigh Gardens, London), some of the last-named (either from Southampton or from Marseilles) extending to Egypt and the Holy Land, and lasting from 13 to 34 days (fares 10–26 _gs._).—The voyage from London to Lisbon (about 1170 M.) usually takes 3½ days, and thence to Gibraltar (about 350 M.) one day more; but some of the steamers take longer, while much of course depends on the number of ports called at and on the length of stay made at each. For details as to the sailings, which, as well as fares, are liable to frequent alteration, application should be made to the various companies, or to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.) or other tourist-agencies.

TO GIBRALTAR DIRECT. As indicated at p. 1, most of the great steamers bound for Port Said, India, Australia, and other distant parts steer for Gibraltar direct.

Of the COASTING STEAMERS to Gibraltar some touch at Lisbon only, others at Leixões (or Oporto) and Lisbon, and others again at various additional stations. All the important stations are here mentioned in their order.

The Hamburg-American steamers call at _Boulogne_ (see Baedeker’s N. France) to take up passengers for Lisbon and America. Most of the vessels pass the _Cap de la Hague_, a little to the N.W. of Cherbourg, and the _Channel Islands_, which belong to Great Britain. The first of these is _Alderney_ (Fr. _Aurigny_); next comes the islet of _Burhou_; beyond it, behind the dangerous rocks called the _Casquets_, marked by a triple flashing light, lies _Guernsey_ (‘green island’), and farther away, to the left, is _Jersey_. The coast of Brittany or Bretagne is visible in clear weather only.

All the steamers leave the English Channel near _Ushant_ (_Ouessant_; lighthouse), an island near the coast of Brittany, and steer to the S.S.W. across the _Bay of Biscay_ (_Viscaya_), where, even in fine weather, the heavy swell of the open Atlantic is distinctly felt. The steamers of the Pacific Line and of the Rotterdam Lloyd touch at =La Pallice=, 3 M. from _La Rochelle_. From La Rochelle, an interesting historic town, by railway to (145 M.) Bordeaux, see Baedeker’s Southern France. The Bay of Biscay is bounded on the S. by the N. coast of Spain, with which the W. coast of France forms a right angle. In this angle, far to the E. of the steamer’s course, lie Bayonne and the famous health resort of Biarritz. To the S.W. of the latter is (8 M.) St. Jean de Luz, and 8 M. farther is Hendaye, on the Spanish frontier (see Baedeker’s S. France).

In Spain, 12 M. to the W. of the frontier, is situated San Sebastián, a strikingly picturesque town and fashionable seaside resort; 71½ M. farther to the W. lies Bilbao, famed for its iron and steel, 74 M. beyond which is Santandér, with its important harbour. About 280 M. farther to the W. are the N.W. headlands of Spain which mark the S.W. end of the Bay of Biscay.

The steamers of the Pacific Line, the Compañía Trasatlántica, and some others next call at =Corunna=, Span. _La Coruña_, a picturesque and important seaport famed in history, and the chief arsenal of N. Spain (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal; debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Time permitting, passengers may spend an hour or two on shore in walking through the new town (_Pescadería_) and the loftily situated old town (_Ciudad Vieja_), and in ascending to the _Torre de Hércules_ (185 ft.; lighthouse), about 1 M. to the N. of the town, for the sake of the splendid view it affords. Some 35 M. to the W. of Corunna lie the small _Sisargas Islands_, beyond which all the vessels steer to the S., past _Cabo Villano_ (lighthouse), _Cabo Toriñana_ (lighthouse), and _Cape Finisterre_. To the E., in clear weather, we may descry the long outlines of the Galician mountain-range (‘sierra’). Beyond Cape Finisterre we pass a number of far-penetrating inlets (_rias_) which abound on the W. coast of Galicia. Many steamers touch also at =Vigo=, a seaport and sea-bathing place most picturesquely situated on the _Ria de Vigo_, the southmost inlet of Galicia, which runs 19 M. inland (debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Fine view near the lofty Castillo del Castro, to the S. of the town. Some eight or nine hours’ steaming carries us from Vigo, past the mouth of the _Minho_, the boundary between Spain and Portugal, to—

=Leixões= (pron. layshŏengsh; Brit. vice-consul, T. Coverley), the first Portuguese port, lying at the mouth of the little river _Leça_ and forming the outer harbour of _Oporto_. About 2½ M. farther to the S. is the mouth of the _Douro_, usually entered by the smaller steamers bound for (3½ M.) Oporto itself.

Passengers who wish to go ashore at Leixões are conveyed by motor-boat or rowing-boat (about 225 reis or 1_s._, and half as much more for luggage) to the custom-house. Visitors with heavy luggage require to take the train (Leça station, near the Alfándega or custom-house) to Oporto (Estacão da Boa Vista, in the N. of the town); others may take the electric tramway (120 rs.), running from Leixões through the villa-suburb of _Leça da Palmeira_ and the watering-places of _Mattosinhos_ and _São João da Foz_, and up the right bank of the Douro, to Oporto (about 5 M., in 1 hr.). It goes as far as the Praça de Dom Pedro; but those in haste will alight in the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique (comp. p. 4).

=Oporto.=—HOTELS. *_Hot. do Porto_, _Hôt. de Paris_, _Hôt. de Francfort_, etc.—_Café-Restaurant International_, Praça de Dom Pedro 14; _Café Suisse_, same square, No. 122; _Café Marques_, in the Crystal Palace.

CAB 500 rs., or about 2_s._ 3_d._, per hour.

CONSULS. British, _H. Grant_.—United States Consular Agent, _W. Stüve_.—ENGLISH CHURCH (_St. James’s_), in the Campo Pequeno, to the N. of the Crystal Palace.

_Oporto_, or briefly _Porto_ (‘harbour’) in Portuguese, is a busy commercial town of 172,400 inhab., the industrial capital of N. Portugal, and the place from which the famous wines of the upper valley of the Douro are chiefly exported. It lies 3½ M. from the sea, on the lofty right bank of the Douro, which has forced its passage here through the granite rock. The old town, with its quaint balconied houses, whose walls are often faced with coloured tiles, rises in terraces on the rocky slopes. The new town lies on a lofty plateau to the N., E., and W. of the old.

To the N. of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the _Exchange_ (Bolsa), with its showy hall in the Moorish style. To the E. of it stands the _Monument of Prince Henry the Navigator_ (p. 5). Adjoining the exchange is the Gothic church of _São Francisco_ (entrance on the W. side), containing elaborate gilt wood-carving of the 17–18th centuries. Near the E. end of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the so-called _English Factory House_ (Associação Britannica), an imposing building erected by an Englishman in 1785 and now used as a kind of club. The nearest tramway-car conveys us to the Praça de Dom Pedro, the business centre of the city, with an _Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV._ (p. 11) commemorating the granting of the constitution (1826). We ascend to the W. by the steep Calçada dos Clérigos to the church of _Igreja dos Clérigos_ (427 ft.), the tower of which (246 ft.; ticket of admission 100 rs.) commands a panoramic view of the city, the river, and the coast. Adjoining the church on the W. is the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, with the beautiful grounds of the _Jardim da Cordoaria_. We next proceed by the electric tramway ‘Palacio’ to the _Crystal Palace_ (adm. 20, 50 or 100 rs.) with its beautiful pleasure-grounds and superb view of the city, the river, and the sea. The same electric tramway, now entitled the ‘Praça de Dom Pedro’, returns viâ the Rua da Cedofeita to the Praça de Dom Pedro; we, however, change tramway-cars in the former and proceed by the tramway ‘Campanha’ viâ the Praça de Dom Pedro to the pretty _Jardim de São Lázaro_. From the S.W. angle of the garden the Rua das Fontainhas descends to the _Passeio das Fontainhas_ with a view of the river, its S. bank, and both bridges. Following this promenade to the W. we reach the Largo da Policia with a fountain, where remains of the _City Walls_ are to be seen. Hence the Rua de Saraiva de Carvalho leads us, before it descends in an abrupt curve to the left, into the vicinity of the _Sé_, or Cathedral, now almost entirely modernized. We may now traverse the upper roadway (toll 5 rs.; tramway-car if desired) of the magnificent _Ponte de Dom Luiz Primeiro_, spanning the Douro with a single iron arch of 564 ft. On the S. bank, on an eminence immediately to the left, lies the ruinous Augustine convent of _Nossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar_ where Wellington effected his celebrated passage of the Douro against the French (1809). The view, especially from the dome of the church, is very fine. We make our way, at first by steps, then by a steep descent, to the lower roadway of the bridge. Returning to the N. bank of the Douro we follow the Rua Cima do Muro to the Praça da Ribeira which affords an insight into popular life and commands a striking retrospect of the Ponte de Dom Luiz. In the neighbourhood we may take the electric tramway ‘Leça’ which conveys us back to Leixões. In the reverse direction we regain the Praça de Dom Pedro.—Comp. _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.

While the greater OCEAN STEAMERS rarely sight the land, those bound for Lisbon skirt the flat Portuguese coast for some 150 M., from Oporto to _Cabo Carvoeiro_, steering past the _Berlengas Islands_ (lighthouse), and then rounding the _Serra de Cintra_ (p. 15), which ends in the _Cabo da Roca_ (472 ft.), the westmost point of Europe, with its great lighthouse. Passing the _Cabo Raso_, we now steer due E. into the _Bay of Cascaes_, the ‘Riviera’ of Portugal, and enter the month of the _Tagus_ (_Tejo_), where the lighthouses of _Torre de São Julião_ and _Torre de Bugio_ rise conspicuously. On the left we next observe the _Torre de Belem_ and the extensive streets of =Lisbon= (see R. 2).

Leaving Lisbon, several of the great liners steer due W. across the Atlantic to America. Other vessels head to the S.W. for Madeira (p. 17), and others again due S., past the _Cabo de Espichel_, on their way to Gibraltar or Tangier. About 120 M. to the S. of Lisbon we are off *_Cape St. Vincent_ (Cabo de São Vicente), the ancient _Promontorium Sacrum_. This huge rocky plateau, with its reddish-brown precipices rising sheer above the sea, presents an imposing appearance. Just beyond it are an old monastery and a lighthouse and then the _Cabo Sagres_. Between these capes we obtain a glimpse of the dreary and sunburnt interior of the country, with its few poor villages. Beyond the Cabo Sagres lies the little town of _Sagres_, founded by Henry the Navigator (1421) as headquarters for his voyages of exploration. Both before and after rounding these two capes we sometimes obtain a pleasant view of the _Serra de Monchique_ (2963 ft.), and before leaving the coast of _Algarve_ we may distinguish the little towns of _Lagos_ and _Albufeira_ and the _Cabo de Santa Maria_. Steering now due E., the smaller trading-vessels call at _Huelva_, a little beyond the Spanish frontier, noted as the shipping-port for the great Tharsis and Rio Tinto mines, and as the starting-point of Columbus (pp. 115, 64) for his voyage to America in 1492, while other vessels call at _Cadiz_ (p. 58); all the larger steamers however proceed direct across the Bay of Cadiz to the S.E. to the Straits of Gibraltar, and either call at Gibraltar itself, or pass it on their eastward voyage without stopping; a certain number touch at _Tangier_ (p. 98).

The *_Straits of Gibraltar_, anciently called _Fretum Gaditanum_ or _Herculeum_ (comp. Map, p. 49), from Gades (p. 58) or from the Pillars of Hercules (p. 54), date from the pliocene age, when the action of tides and waves forced a passage from the Atlantic into the great inland cavity of the Mediterranean. The straits are widest at the W. entrance, between _Cape Trafalgar_ (p. 58) on the left, and _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the right. The narrowest part (8 M.) is between the _Punta Canales_ (p. 6) and _Cape Ciris_ (p. 123). The E. entrance, between _Europa Point_ (p. 55) and the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 123), is 12½ M. in breadth. Between the ocean and the inland sea run strong currents, the upper and lighter, from W. to E., sometimes setting at the rate of 5 M. an hour, while the lower, being more strongly impregnated with salt and therefore heavier, flows in the opposite direction. These currents, coupled with the conflict of winds at the meeting of the waters, often cause serious trouble to sailing-vessels.

To the right, far to the S.E. as we steer into the straits, appears the lighthouse on Cape Spartel, to the E. of which opens the bay of _Tangier_ (p. 98), bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_. To the left, on the treeless coast of Andalusia enlivened only by the numerous ancient watch-towers, lies the town of _Tarifa_, preceded by an isthmus ending in the _Punta Marroquí_, the southmost point of the mainland of Europe (36° N. lat.).

The steamers then pass the _Punta Canales_ and _Punta del Fraile_, round the _Punta Carnero_, the southmost spur of the _Sierra de los Gazules_, and enter the broad _Bay of Algeciras_ or _Gibraltar_, where they usually anchor in the open roads of _Gibraltar_ (p. 52), to the N.W. of the government harbour.

From Gibraltar to _Tangier_ and _Mogador_, see RR. 6 b and 14; to _Genoa_, see R. 15; to _Naples_, see R. 16; to _Marseilles_, see R. 17.

2. Lisbon.[4]

ARRIVAL BY SEA. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G, 5). Landing or embarking by boat (_bote_) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs. for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house (bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil), cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.); for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the through-passengers (_passageiros em transito_) are conveyed without luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on board till next morning.

Footnote 4:

MONEY. The monetary unit in Portugal is the _real_ (equal to 0.549 of a centime, or roughly ¹⁄₂₀ of a penny or ⅒ of a cent), which is used, however, in multiples (_reis_) only. The copper coins are 5 rs., 10 rs., and 20 rs. (_vintem_, pl. _vintens_). In nickel there are pieces of 50 and 100 rs. (_tostão_, pl. _tostões_). In silver there are coins of 200, 500 (_corõa_), and 1000 rs. (_um milreis_, worth about 5 fr. or 4_s._ 2_d._ or $1). Gold is never met with in ordinary traffic. The banknotes are for 5000 rs., 10,000 rs., and 20,000 rs. A sum of 1000 milreis is called _um conto da reis_.—Small amounts are often reckoned in _tostões_ and _vintens_.

The =Central Railway Station= (_Estação Central_ or _Lisboa Rocio_, Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of the _International Sleeping Carriage Co._ (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace Hotel (see below).

=Hotels= (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *AVENIDA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs. upwards; *HOT. BRAGANÇA (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—HOT. DE INGLATERRA (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of; HOT. CENTRAL (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800, D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; HÔT. DE L’EUROPE, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl. F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—HÔT. DURAND (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores 71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000 rs.—AVENIDA HOTEL (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good second-class house.

=Cafés-Restaurants.= *_Tavares_, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800 and 1000 rs.; _Impérial_, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; _Suisso_, Largo de Camões 8, opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—BEER. _Cervejaria Jansen_, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do Alecrim 30); _Cervejaria Trindade_, Rua da Trindade 110.

=Post and Telegraph Office= (_Correio e Telegrapho_; Pl. F, 5) in the Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices (_estações auxiliares_). Postage of letters (_cartas_) for Portugal and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (_bilhete postal_) 10 rs.; for abroad (_para o estrangeiro_) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee (_registado_) 50 rs.

=Cabs= (_Trens de Praça_) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer should ask the driver (_cocheiro_) for a ticket or token (_senha_). The tariff is called _tabella_. ‘Impedido’ means engaged.

│ In the old town │ To the suburbs ─────────────────────────┼─────────┬─────────┼─────────┬───────── │1–2 pers.│3–4 pers.│1–2 pers.│3–4 pers. Per drive (_por corrida_)│ 400 rs.│ 500 rs.│ 1000 rs.│ 1200 rs. Per hour (_ás horas_) │ 600 „│ 700 „│ 600 „│ 700 „ Two hours │ 1200 „│ 1400 „│ 1200 „│ 1400 „ Three hours │ 1500 „│ 1800 „│ 1500 „│ 1800 „ Four hours │ 1800 „│ 2200 „│ 1800 „│ 2200 „

The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50 kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs.

TAXIMETER CABS (_Trens com Taximeter_) are rather cheaper.—MOTOR TAXIMETERS (_Automovies da Praça_), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4), comp. the tariff written in French.

=Lifts and Cable Tramways= (_Ascensores_ or _Elevadores_), mostly every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called _subida_, down _descida_, return _ida e volta_.

1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs.

2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20 rs.

3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs.

4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs.

5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl. F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs.