Part 69

We ride straight to the *_Step Pyramid_ (Arab. El-Hâram el-Mudarrag), the great landmark of Sakkâra. This was the tomb of king Zoser (3rd Dynasty, about 2900–2850 B.C.), and is still older than the pyramids of Gîzeh. It is 196 ft. high, and each step recedes about 6½ ft.

About 330 yds. to the S.W. of the Step Pyramid rises the _Pyramid of King Onnos_ (or Unis; about 2550 B.C.), which is easily scaled. The view embraces all the pyramids from Dahshûr to Gîzeh. The central chamber and burial-vault in the interior (shown by the custodian) are full of hieroglyphic inscriptions, the oldest religious Egyptian text known.

Beyond the Step Pyramid, in the direction of Mariette’s House, we suddenly obtain a striking view of the pyramids of Abusîr and Gîzeh to the N.; in the palm-shaded Nile valley, bordered by the yellowish-grey desert, we observe in the distance the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454).

When the road forks we ride to the left to the _Mastaba of Ptahhotep_, the tomb of the highest state-official of a king of the 5th Dynasty (about 2700–2550 B.C.). The interesting, delicately executed wall-reliefs, like those of the almost contemporaneous mastaba of Ti (p. 466), are among the finest of the Ancient Empire but are imperfectly lighted. The richest wall-decoration is in the sacrificial chamber (funeral repast, rural scenes, etc.).

We now repair to _Mariette’s House_, a little to the N., where the famous Egyptologist lived during the excavations. We rest and take luncheon on the terrace here. (Custodians 2½–5 pias.; Arabian coffee provided if desired.)

A few min. to the W. of Mariette’s house is the *_Serapeum_, with the underground rock-tombs of the sacred bulls of the god Ptah.

Apis, the sacred bull, had a temple of his own at Memphis, and after death was buried with great pomp. He represented man in a future state as identified with the god Osiris, and his tomb was a favourite goal of pilgrims. Hermits too sometimes lived in the narrow cells of the tomb. After Ptolemy I. had introduced the cult of Serapis (p. 435) into Egypt, this new god was identified with Osiris-Apis (Egyp. Oser-hapē, Gr. Osorapis).

The temple over the Apis tombs has disappeared, and so too has a second temple erected here by Nektanebos (358–341 B.C.), to which the great sphinx avenue ascended from the plain below. The main passage to the tombs, which was constructed by Psammetichos I. (663–609), is now alone accessible. In the tomb-chambers are still preserved 24 of the huge sarcophagi in which the mummies of the Apis bulls reposed.

The famous *_Mastaba of Ti_, to the N.E. of Mariette’s house, is still deeply imbedded in the sand. This was the tomb of the royal architect of king Nuserrē (5th Dyn.). The most beautiful of the reliefs are in the tomb-chamber, which is entered from the road through two vestibules and two passages. We note particularly, on the E. wall, Harvest and Boat-building; on the S. wall, Sacrifices to the dead; on the N. wall, *Scenes from life in the Delta marshes.

Those who do not intend to ride on to Gîzeh may, on their way back, glance at the _Tomb of Merekura_, of the early 6th Dynasty, and at the _Street of Tombs_ near it, of like date (including the _Tomb of Enkhmē-Hor_, also called the ‘Tomb of the Physicians’, etc.)

For full details, see _Baedeker’s Egypt_.

=72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut= (_Smyrna_, _Constantinople_) =viâ Jaffa=.

464 (or 261) M. STEAMERS (mostly small and old; agents at Alexandria, see p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437; at Jaffa, p. 467; at Beirut, pp. 481, 482). =1.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean line (coming from Marseilles, and touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Frid. (returning Mon. or Tues.) to Beirut, alternately direct in 1 day and viâ Jaffa in 2 days; fare from Port Said to Jaffa 35 or 25 fr., to Beirut 65 or 55 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Trieste and Syria line; comp. R. 68; touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Mon. aft. viâ Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut in ca. 2½ days (returning Thurs. night); fare from Port Said to Jaffa 33 or 22 K, to Beirut 75 or 52 K.—=3.= _Khedivial Mail Co._ (coming from Alexandria), from Port Said on Sun. aft. viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 1½ days to Beirut (going on, every alternate week, to Alexandretta and Constantinople), returning from Beirut Sun. foren.; fare from Port Said to Jaffa £ 1 E 35 pias. or £ E 1, to Beirut £ 2 E 60 pias. or £ E 2.—=4.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Syria and Egypt circular line; coming from Alexandria), from Port Said on Mon. or Sat. nights viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 2 days to Beirut (going on to Smyrna and Constantinople), returning from Beirut Tues. or Wed. aft.; fare 60 or 44 fr. (to Jaffa 36 or 26 fr.).—=5.= _German Levant Line_, cargo-steamers from Alexandria twice monthly viâ Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut (comp. R. 65).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Lines VII, VII bis; coming from Alexandria), from Port Said each monthly viâ Jaffa to Beirut in ca. 2 days.

As to passports, see p. 491; Turkish money, p. 536.

_Alexandria_, see p. 431; _Port Said_, see p. 436. The flat Egyptian coast disappears soon after we leave Port Said.

Nearing Jaffa we survey the hill-country of _Judaea_, with the heights around Jerusalem and (to the N.E.) the mountains of _Samaria_, The broad coast-plain, flanked with low dunes, is the ancient _Peleshet_, the ‘plain’, stretching from the Egyptian frontier to Mt. Carmel (p. 468), once inhabited by the _Philistines_ (Pelishtîm).

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=Jaffa.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the open roads. In winter, when a westerly gale is blowing, it is often impossible to land. Passengers must then go on to Haifa (p. 468) or to Beirut (p. 481). The arrangements for landing are unsatisfactory; in rough weather as much as 20 fr. is demanded. It is best to land in one of the boats belonging to the hotels or tourist-agents (see below; 6–7 fr. to station or to hotel, incl. baggage, on which a watchful eye should be kept), and to decline the services of other boatmen or of porters and dragomans (Arabic terjumân). The passport office and custom-house are in the S. angle of the harbour. Customs examination, see p. 537.

RAILWAY STATION to the N.E. of the town, 1½ M. from the harbour.

HOTELS (charges should be ascertained at once; advisable to order rooms beforehand in the height of the season). _Jerusalem Hotel_ and _Hôt. du Parc_, both in the German colony, pens. 12½, in the quiet season 8 fr.; _Hôt. Kaminitz_, in Rue Boustrous, leading to the German colony; _Frank_, in the German colony, with restaurant.

TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, opposite the Jerusalem Hotel; _Clark_, in the Hôt. du Parc; _Dr. Benzinger_, at Frank’s Hotel; _Hamburg-American Line_, _Agence Lubin_, both at the harbour.—STEAMBOAT OFFICES all on the quay, to the N.E. of the custom-house.

POST OFFICES. _Turkish_ in Rue Boustrous (also International Telegraph); _German_ and _Austrian-Hungarian_, at the N.E. end of the quay; _French_, farther to the N.E.; _Russian_, on the quay, opposite the Quarantine Station.

CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _J. Falanga_.—United States Consular Agent, _J. Hardegg_.

PHYSICIANS. _Dr. J. M. Keith_ (medical superintendent of the _English Hospital_); _Dr. Lin_ (French); _Dr. Lorch_, _Dr. Saad_ (both German).

BANKS. _Anglo-Palestine Co._, _Banque Ottomane_, both in the Gaza Road; _German Palaestina-Bank_, _Crédit Lyonnais_, both on the quay.

ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICES, on Sun. at 9.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.

CARRIAGES. Drive 1 beshlik (3½ pias.); ½ day 10, day 20 fr.; to Jerusalem (7–8 hrs.) in the season 50–60 fr. (single seat 10–15 fr.), to Haifa (1½–2 days), 100–140 fr., according to weather.

_Jaffa_, Arabic _Yâfâ_, Gr. _Joppa_ (pop. 47,000, viz. about 30,000 Moslems, 10,000 Christians, and 7000 Jews), originally a Phœnician colony in the land of the Philistines, is mentioned as early as the reign of Solomon (p. 472) as the seaport of Jerusalem. The Maccabees (p. 472) brought it under Jewish domination. During the Crusades it was repeatedly wrested from the Christians, and in 1267 it was destroyed by the Mameluke sultan Beybars. In 1799 the town was stormed by the French under Kléber (p. 444).

The old town rises on a rock 118 ft. high, behind the _Quay_, built towards the end of the 17th century. Its streets are very dusty and in wet weather muddy.

The quay and its prolongation, the main arteries of traffic, lead in a curve towards the E. to the _Market_ (Sûk), where the Semitic type of the inhabitants is very noticeable.

Beyond this market is a public garden with a _Clock Tower_ erected by the town of Jaffa to commemorate the 25th year of the reign of the now deposed Sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909), and several Arabian cafés. The Gaza road leads thence to the right through the S. suburb. The Jerusalem road leads straight on through the new town and a number of orange-groves; after 12 min. a road diverges to the left to the Russian settlement, where we are shown the site of the house of _Tabitha_ and her rock-tomb (Acts ix. 35). The Rue Boustrous leads to the left to the railway-station and the pleasant houses of the _German Colony_, founded in 1868 (about 350 inhab., chiefly of the ‘Temple’ sect).

A second colony of these Templars is _Sarona_, 1 M. to the N.E., behind the dunes, in the coast-plain of _Sharon_ between Jaffa and Cæsarea, famed ever since ancient times for its fertility. The vine in particular thrives here admirably.

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Beyond Jaffa the STEAMER soon passes the mouth of the _Nahr el-Aujâ_, the largest river in Palestine next to the Jordan, and then, near the N. boundary of Judæa, the site of _Apollonia_ (now _Arsûf_). Farther on we sight the scanty ruins of _Caesarea Palaestina_ (Arabic _El-Kaisarîyeh_), a seaport founded by Herod the Great, which in the Roman period surpassed Jerusalem.

Beyond the _Nahr ez-Zerkâ_ (‘blue river’, p. xxxiii), the _Crocodile River_ of Pliny, come the little town of _Tantûra_, the _Dor_ of the Old Testament, which classical authors say was a Phœnician colony, and then _Atlît_, the _Castellum Peregrinorum_ of the Crusaders, the seat of the Knights Templar in 1218–91, with its grand ruins.

The beautiful outlines of *_Mt. Carmel_ (1811 ft.; _Jebel Mâr Elyâs_, ‘sacred mount of Elijah’) become more distinct. On the hill-side is the _Carmelite Monastery_ (558 ft.), the original seat of the order, which extended its sphere to Europe in 1238. Below it, on the evergreen N. slope of the range, rises a _Lighthouse_.

Most of the steamers call at the open roads of =Haifa= or _Khaifa_ (Hôt. Karmel or Krafft, pens. 8–10 fr.; carr. at the tourist-office of Unger & Hermann, at G. Sus’s, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., P. Abela; U. S. cons. agent, Th. Struve; pop. 16,000), a rapidly rising commercial town, beautifully situated at the N. base of Mt. Carmel and on the S. shore of the _Bay of Acre_, not far from the site of the _Sycaminum_ of antiquity. The trade is chiefly in the hands of the German ‘Temple’ sect, whose settlement presents a striking contrast to the prevailing Oriental squalor.

A ROAD leads from Haifa viâ _Atlît_ and _Tantûra_ (see above), and then inland viâ the Jewish agricultural colony of _Zammarín_ (Hôt. Graff) and _Kakûn_ (410 ft.) to =Nàbulus= or _Nâblus_ (1870 ft.; Hôt. Nablus, German,) once _Sichem_, the capital of _Samaria_. After the war of 67 A.D. (p. 472) it was re-founded by Vespasian as _Flavia Neapolis_. It is now a town of 27,000 inhab. (incl. 700 Christians and 170 members of the Samaritan sect). Fine view from _Mt. Gerizim_ (2848 ft.; Arab. _Jebel et-Tôr_), to the S. of the town. A new road leads from Nâbulus, past _Jacob’s Well_ (St. John, iv. 5–30), viâ _El-Lubban_ and _El-Bireh_, to _Jerusalem_ (p. 470).

FROM HAIFA VIÂ DERÂT TO DAMASCUS, 177 M., Railway. One train daily in 10 hrs.; fares, 1st cl., 142½, 3rd cl. 65½ pias. (note exchange at rail. stat.: 1 mejidieh = 19 pias.; 20 fr. = 86½ pias.; £ 1 = 109¼ pias.; £ 1 Turkish = 96 pias.). Most travellers, however, prefer the following profoundly interesting route, joining the train at _Samakh_ (p. 469).

We drive from Haifa to (24 M.) _Nazareth_ (1145 ft.; Hôt. Germania, pens. 8–12½ fr.), the home of Christ, whence the Christians in the Levant are still called Nazarenes (Nasâra). Then past _Mt. Tabor_ (1844 ft.; _Jebel et-Tor_; fine view), the traditional scene of the Transfiguration, and _Kafr Kennâ_, the _Cana_ of the Bible (St. John, ii), to (4½ hrs.) =Tabarîya= (82 ft. below sea-level; Hôt. Tiberias or Grossmann, pens. 10–12½ fr.; pop. 7500, incl. many Polish Jews), the ancient _Tiberias_, once the capital of _Galilee_, and, after the destruction of Jerusalem (p. 472), the chief seat of the Jewish nation. It lies high up on the W. bank of the _Lake of Gennesaret_, or _of Tiberias_, or _Sea of Galilee_ (682 ft. below sea-level; 13 M. long, 7½ M. broad), through which flows the _Jordan_. During half of the year the climate in this profound Syrian valley is extremely hot.

From Tiberias we row down the lake in 2 hrs. to the rail. station of _Samakh_ (610 ft. below sea-level; 54½ M. from Haifa). The train ascends the *_Yarmuk Valley_ to (100 M.) _Derât_ (1735 ft. above sea-level; Buffet), where it joins the main Hejâz line to _Damascus_ (p. 484; Kadem station).—For details, see _Baedeker’s Palestine and Syria_.

Beyond Haifa all the steamers skirt the coast of ancient _Phoenicia_ at some distance from land, as the cliffs here endanger navigation, but the numerous small headlands, bays, and islands adapt it admirably for settlement. It once extended, far beyond Beirut, to the river _Eleutheros_, now _Nahr el-Kebîr_.

From afar we sight the lighthouse and forts of _Akka_ or _Acre_, the ancient _Akko_ (later _Ptolemais_). In 1104 it became the naval station of the Crusaders. Taken by Saladin in 1187 it was recaptured by Richard Cœur-de-Lion in 1191 and for a century was a great bulwark of Christianity. Under the name of _St. Jean d’Acre_ it was the seat of the knights of St. John (p. 475) after their expulsion from Jerusalem. Far to the N.E. rises _Mt. Hermon_ (p. 489).

Beyond the white _Râs el-Nâkûra_, the ancient _Scala Tyriorum_, and _Râs el-Abyad_, the _Promontorium Album_ of Pliny, we sight a low headland on which lies the poor little town of =Sûr=, with a ruined church of the Crusaders, ruins of their fortifications, and a lighthouse. This was the ancient seaport of _Tyre_, once situated on two islands, but connected with the mainland by an embankment built by Alexander during his famous siege (332 B.C.).

Farther on we pass the mouth of the _Nahr el-Lîtânî_ (p. 483), here called _Nahr el-Kâsimîyeh_, and obtain a fine view of the coast-region in front of _Lebanon_; to the E. rise _Jebel er-Rihân_ and _Tômât Nîhâ_ (6070 ft.; ‘twins of Nîhâ’), snow-capped in winter, and to the N.E. the distant _Jebel Sannîn_ (p. 483).

Beyond _Sarafant_ (ancient _Zarpath_ or _Sarepta_) opens the broad bay of =Saida=, formerly _Sidon_, the oldest and, next to Tyre, greatest port of the Phœnicians, now girdled by rich vegetation.

Passing the mouth of the _Nahr el-Auwâlî_ (ancient _Bostrenus_) and the _Râs er-Rumeileh_, the N. limit of the bay of Saida, we come to the far-projecting _Râs ed-Dâmûr_ and the _Nahr ed-Dâmûr_, the ancient _Tamyras_, which in winter is one of the most copious rivers in the Lebanon region. Near Beirut begin the mulberry and olive groves and the vineyards of the fertile coast-plain.

We round the reddish hills of _Râs Beirût_ (p. 483), with the pigeons’ grottoes and lighthouse, and enter _Beirut_ harbour (p. 481).

73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem.

54½ M. RAILWAY. Two trains daily in 3 hrs. 40 min. (1st cl. 70½ pias.; 2nd, inferior to good Engl. 3rd, 25 pias.). Railway rates of exchange: 1 mejidieh = 20 pias.; 20 fr. = 94 pias.; £ 1 = 124 pias.; £ 1 Turkish = 108 pias. (comp. p. 536).

_Jaffa_, see p. 467. The train skirts the orchards around Jaffa (with Sarona on the left) and turns to the S.E. through the plain of Sharon (p. 468), following the depression of the _Wâdi Miserâra_. On the right is the agricultural colony of the Alliance Israélite. To the E. rise the bluish hills of ancient _Judaea_.

12 M. _Lydda_, Arabic _Ludd_, Old Test. _Lod_, Gr.-Rom. _Diospolis_, was severed from Samaria by the Maccabees (p. 472) in 145 B.C. and annexed to Judæa.

14 M. =Er-Ramleh= (accommodation at the Franciscan convent; pop. exceeding 7000, incl. 2500 Christians), founded by the Omaiyades (p. 485) in 716, was the _Ramula_ of the era of the Crusades, when it was even more important than Jerusalem. The chief sight is the *_Minaret_ of the oldest mosque (_Jâmi el-Abyad_, ‘white mosque’), famed also for its view. It was erected by En-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1318, in a style recalling the Romanesque transition buildings of the Crusaders (p. 474), but has lost its original summit.

The train crosses the Jerusalem road and runs to the S. through marshy flats to (18 M.) the village of _Nâaneh_. At some distance from the railway _Akir_, once _Ekron_, one of the five chief cities of the Philistines (p. 466), lies on the right (W.), and on the left (E.) are the famous ruins of _Tell Jezer_, mentioned in the letters found at Tell el-Amarna (p. 456), originally the Canaanitish (Phœnician) city of _Gezer_ (a drive of 1 hr. from Er-Ramleh).

24½ M. _Sejed._ Soon turning to the E., we ascend the _Wâdi es-Sarâr_ (‘valley of Sorek’, Judg. xvi. 4), which beyond (31 M.) _Deir Abân_ narrows to a wild rocky gorge.

47½ M. _Bittir_, the ancient _Baither_ or _Bethar_, was heroically defended against the Romans during the revolt of Bar Cochba (p. 472). The train then ascends in the _Wâdi el-Werd_ (‘valley of roses’) and crosses the plain of _El-Bukeia_ to (54½ M.) _Jerusalem_.

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=Jerusalem.=—The STATION (2451 ft.; see Pl. C, 9) lies ¾ M. to the S. of the Jaffa Gate; carr. into the town 2–5 fr., according to the season.

HOTELS. *_Fast’s Hotel_ (Pl. a; C, 4, 5), Jaffa Road; _Grand New Hotel_ (Pl. c; D, 5), New Bazaar; _Hôt. Hughes_ (Pl. d; C, 4), Jaffa Road; _Olivet House_ (Pl. e; C, 2); _Hôt. Kaminitz_ (Pl. b; C, 4), Jaffa Road. Pension at all 12–15 (out of season 8–10) fr. per day. Agreement advisable. Wine of the country 1–2, French wine from 3 fr. a bottle.

HOSPICES. _Prussian Johanniter-Hospiz_ (Pl. g; F, 4), pens. 5 fr.; _German Catholic Hospice St. Paulus_ (Pl. h; E, 2), outside the Damascus Gate; _Austrian_ (Pl. i; F, 3), Via Dolorosa; _Casa Nuova_ (Pl. k; D 4, 5), of the Franciscans; all good, pens. 5–8 fr.

RESTAURANTS. _Deutsche Bierhalle_, Jaffa Road; _Lendhold_ (brewery), in the German Temple colony.

POST OFFICES. _Turkish_ (Pl. C, 5: with the International Telegraph), outside the Jaffa Gate; _French_ (Pl. C, 5), adjoining it; _German_ (Pl. D, 5), etc.

TOURIST OFFICES. _Thos. Cook & Son_, inside Jaffa Gate; _Clark_, _Hamburg-American Line_, _Dr. Benzinger_ (North German Lloyd), _N. Tadros_, all in Jaffa Road.

CARRIAGES at the Jaffa Gate. Drive ¼ hour, ½ mejidieh. Excursions are best arranged for by tourist-agent or landlord of hotel. So also HORSES, half-day 5, whole day 8 fr.; donkey per day 4–5, half-day 2–3 fr.

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 5; A, 1), _H. E. Satow_.—United States (Pl. 13; E, 5): consul, _W. Coffin_.

BANKS. _Anglo-Palestine Co._ (Pl. 1; E, 6), opposite the citadel; _Crédit Lyonnais_ (Pl. 2; D, 5) and _Banque Ottomane_ (Pl. D, 5), Jaffa Road; _German Palaestina-Bank_ (Pl. 3; D, 5), inside Jaffa Gate.

PHOTOGRAPHS. The best are those of the _American Colony_, of _Bonfils_ of Beirut, and (coloured) of the _Photoglob_ of Zürich, to be obtained from _Vester_ (American Colony Store), _Boulus Meo_, _Sfeir_, and _Shammas_, all in the Grand New Hotel; _A. Attallah_, at the Bâb el-Jedîd; _Salman & Co._, Jaffa Road.—Other favourite SOUVENIRS of Jerusalem are carved olive-wood and mother-of-pearl objects, in which there is a brisk trade; the largest choice is to be found in the square in front of St. Sepulchre’s, but half at most of the price asked should be offered; higher class work is best purchased at the shops mentioned above.

CHURCHES, convents, missions, schools, etc. abound (see Baedeker’s Palestine & Syria). Among them may be mentioned the _Collegiate Church of St. George_ (with the Bishop’s House; services at 9 a.m. and 4.30 p.m.), to the N. of the town; _Christ Church_ (Pl. E, 6; services at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.); _St. Paul’s_ (Pl. C, 1, 2; Arabic services at 9.30 a.m. and 3 p.m.).

TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Mt. of Olives_ (p. 479), _Kidron_ and _Hinnom Valleys_ (p. 480); afternoon, _Church of the Holy Sepulchre_ (p. 474), _Mûristân_ (p. 475), and _Zion_ (p. 473).—2nd. Forenoon, _Haram esh-Sherîf_ (p. 476); afternoon, excursion to _Bethlehem_ (p. 480).

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is open before 11.30 and after 3; a forenoon visit may usually be prolonged by giving a fee to the Moslem custodian (1 fr.).

Leave to visit the Haram esh-Sherîf must be obtained from the Turkish authorities through the visitor’s consulate (see above). He is then escorted by a Turkish soldier and usually by a cavass of the consulate also. The cavass receives 8–10 fr., or 4–5 fr. from each member of a party, which covers all fees and outlays. On Fridays and during the Moslem festival of Nebi-Mûsâ (Wed. of Holy Week to Easter Mon.) the mosque is closed to strangers.

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KEY TO PLAN OF JERUSALEM. _Banks_, see above.—_Bazaars_, Old (Sûks) and New, F 5; E 5.—_Churches._ Christ Church (English), E 6; Church of the Redeemer (German Prot.), E 5; Holy Sepulchre, E 4; St. Anne’s, H 3; St. George’s (English), with Bishop’s House, a little to the N. of E 1; St. Mary’s, K 3; St. Mary Magdalen’s, K 4; St. Paul’s (Arab.-Prot.), C 1, 2.— _Consulates_, see above.—_Monasteries._ Abraham’s (Greek), Pl. 19, E 4, 5; Abyssinian, Pl. 14, E 4; Armenian Catholic, Pl. 15, F 4; Coptic, Pl. 16, E 4; Gethsemane, Pl. 20, E 5; Greek (Great), D E 4, 5; Panagia (Greek), Pl. 21, E 4; Panagia Melæna (Gr.), Pl. 22, E 5; St. Basil (Gr.), Pl. 23, D 4; St. Caralombos (Gr.), Pl. 24, E 4; St. Catharine (Gr.), Pl. 25, E 4; St. Demetrius (Gr.), Pl. 26, D 5; St. George’s (Coptic), Pl. 17, D 5; St. George’s (Greek), Pl. 27 & 28, D 4 & E 7; St. John the Baptist’s (Gr.), Pl. 29, E 5; St. John Euthymius (Gr.), Pl. 30, E 4; St. Michael’s (Gr.), Pl. 31, D 4; St. Nicholas (Gr.), Pl. 32, D 4; St. Salvator’s (Latin), Pl. 36, D 4; St. Stephen’s (Dominican), E 1; St. Theodore’s (Greek), Pl. 33, D 4.—_Mosques._ El-Aksâ, H 5, 6; Kubbet es-Sakhra (Dome of the Rock), H 4, 5; Sîdni Omar, Pl. 37, E 5.—_Synagogues_ (indicated by the letter ‘S’ on the Plan), many, E, F 5–7.

_Jerusalem_ (Hebrew _Yerushalayim_, Gr. and Lat. _Hierosolyma_, Arabic _El-Kuds_) lies in 31°46′ N. lat. and 35°13′ E. long., on an arid limestone plateau (cold in winter) which rises in the form of a peninsula from the _Kidron Valley_ (_Wâdi Sitti Maryam_, ‘Mary’s Valley’), on the E., and from the _Valley of Hinnom_ (_Wâdi er-Rabâbi_), on the S. side. The narrow E. height (2441 ft.), the ancient _Temple Hill_, is separated from the W. hill, that of the old _Upper Town_ (2550 ft.), by a depression, now very slight, called _Tyropoeon_ (‘dung valley’) by Josephus, the Jewish historian. Still higher is the N.W. angle of the present town (2591 ft.).