Part 57

_Sfax_, Arabic _Sfakês_ (pop. 70,000, incl. 6400 Europeans, of whom 3100 are Italians and 1300 Maltese), the second-largest town in Tunisia, is also its chief seaport next to Tunis. It lies on the shallow N. shore of the _Gulf of Gabes_, adjacent to the _Kerkenna Banks_ and opposite the _Kerkenna Islands_ (p. 405). Many of the natives live in small houses outside the town, amidst the beautiful orchards which girdle Sfax for nearly 10 M. around. Beyond the gardens lies the olive-zone, like them artificially irrigated, covering some 500 acres, and numbering three million trees. It lies chiefly in the _Terres Sialines_, a region named after the Siala family, but now owned by the state. After the Arab incursions it became a mere desert, but modern cultivation has restored its ancient prosperity. Sfax owes its rapid rise to the export of olive-oil, almonds, figs, and vegetables from the interior, dates from the Djerid (p. 386), alfa from the steppes, of which cables are made in the Kerkenna Islands, and above all to its trade in the phosphates of Metlaoui (p. 386) and Redeyef (p. 372). It is important also as a fish-market and as a mart for the sponges of the bay, especially from the Kerkenna banks. In the sponge-fishery Greeks, Maltese, and Sicilians vie with the Kerkenna islanders.

Sfax, the ancient _Taparura_, which was one of the smallest seaports on the bay of Gabes, is of little historical note. In the first half of the 12th cent. it fell, along with Mehdia (p. 369), into the hands of the Normans (p. 323), and in 1539 it was occupied for a time by the Spaniards, who possessed also the Kerkenna Islands. Its harbour was much benefited by the French occupation of Algeria, as the caravans from the Sudan thereafter went to Sfax, Gabes, and Tripoli (p. 406). It was not till 1832 that Christian merchants were allowed to settle outside the Bâb Diwân, the sea-gate. When the French arrived in 1881 Sfax, like Kairwan, was a camp of the warlike nomads of central and S. Tunisia, owing to whose resistance the town had to suffer a bombardment and to pay a war-indemnity of 15 million francs. For that disaster and for the decline of its trade with inland Africa the colonization of the environs and the improvement of the harbour (1895–7) have since made amends.

From the open roads at the end of the Kerkenna inlet, where larger vessels formerly had to anchor, a _Harbour Canal_, 2952 yds. in length and 44 in breadth, now leads into the =Bassin= (Pl. D, E, 4) of 25 acres, adjoining which is the _Bassin des Torpilleurs_ (Pl. C, D, 4). On the quay bordering the town, 492 yds. long, are the _Douane_ and two large warehouses. On the N.E. quay are the stores of the phosphate railway, whence ships are loaded by means of a long shoot. The _Chenal pour petits Bateaux_ connects the main harbour with the small _Darse_ (Pl. B, 4), the harbour for fishing-boats.

The mud-banks between the new harbour and the old quay (now Boul. de France) have been artificially raised and converted into an area of 50 acres for building. The projected new quarter, with its straight and shadeless streets, has made little progress as yet. Between it and the older suburb, built since 1832, are the Avenue de Paris and the palm-avenue of the BOULEVARD DE FRANCE (Pl. B, C, 3), where most of the public buildings are situated.

In the Ave. de Paris are the Contrôle Civil (Pl. 1; C, 3), the Post Office (Pl. 6; C, 3), and the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 3). The last has a small museum (open daily except Sun.) containing Roman antiquities, mostly from Thænæ (p. 383). Among the mosaics are fishing scenes, Arion on the dolphin, and Pugilists.

Beyond the E. end of the Boul. de France and the Place Carnot (Pl. C, 2) lies the _Jewish Quarter_. The Boul. de France leads to the W., past the Rue de la République, the chief business street of the new quarters, to the _Marché aux Céréales_ (Pl. B, 3), which may be reached also by the Rue Victor-Hugo. Near this, adjoining the harbour of the fishing-boats, is the _Marché_ (Pl. B, 3, 4) for pottery, where the large ‘jarres d’huile’, made chiefly by the Metellits (p. 380), resemble the ancient amphoræ.

The picturesque but not over-clean old town is still enclosed by its battlemented *=Town Walls=, with their numerous towers and bastions. The fortifications next the sea, the _Kasba_ (Pl. A, 3; barracks, no admittance) and the _Bordj en-Nar_ (Pl. C, 2), were the chief objects of attack by the French ships and troops in 1881.

The old town is entered by the _Bâb Djedid_ (Pl. A, 3), the _Bâb Diwân_ (Pl. B, 2), at the end of the Rue de la République, and the new _Porte Delcassé_ (Pl. B, 2; 1903). Its main streets are the Rue de la Grande-Mosquée, the shortest way to the Souks (see below), and the RUE DU BEY (Pl. B, 2, 1).

In the Rue des Aïssaouas (No. 12), a few paces to the right of the Rue du Bey, is the _Zaouïa Sidi ben-Aïssa_ (p. 373), with its fine portal. The castigations practised by the sect may be seen here on Fridays, from 2.30 to 5 p.m.

In the Rue de la Driba, the third street to the right off the Rue du Bey, No. 4, on the left, is the _Driba_ (Pl. 2; B, 2), a fine type of an aristocratic mansion, with a picturesque colonnaded court on the first floor (fee ½ fr.). Opposite, at No. 5 Rue Régulus, one of the _Portals_ has the geometric ornamentation so common in every part of the town.

At the end of the RUE DE LA GRANDE-MOSQUÉE rises the venerable _Chief Mosque_ (Pl. B, 2), with its square whitewashed minaret, whose upper half is of the 13th century. The main façade recalls Syrian types (Kalat Simân), and the ten arcades of the interior are like those of the Sidi Okba mosque (p. 374).

Just beyond the mosque are the =Souks=, or markets. Their centre is the vaulted _Souk des Etoffes_ (Pl. B, 2), with a large assortment of ‘gadrouns’, the chief garment of the people of Sfax, blankets from Gafsa, etc. Its continuation, the Rue des Teinturiers, leads to the _Bâb Djebli_ (Pl. A, 1), the picturesque N.W. gate.

To the right the town-wall is skirted by the Rue des Forgerons (Pl. B, 1), with its balconies. To the left, Rue Abd el-Kader 62, is the law-court of the _Ouzara_ (Pl. A, 1; sits Wednesday and Saturday forenoons), with a pretty court.

Outside Bâb Djebli is the bustling cattle-market, enclosed by fondouks or caravanserais, where we have a pretty view of several saints’ tombs and palm-shaded gardens.

A pleasant glimpse of the country and its inhabitants is afforded by a drive to the Toual el-Chridi (tariff, see p. 380; but bargain advisable). Beyond the Bâb Djebli we pass the large _Feskias_, or rain-water reservoirs, and then numerous _Nasrias_ or small cisterns. The *Orchard Zone extends about 5 M. inland. Passing through olive-groves and flanked with straight rows of trees the road ascends to the (13½ M.) =Toual el-Chridi= (433 ft.), a hill with a geometric signal, a kind of pyramid in steps, where we have an extensive view stretching to the sea.

On the road to Gabes (p. 389), beyond the S.W. suburb of _Picville_ and the Rond-Point, is the _Jardin Public_, watered by large basins, with the Jardin d’Essai, or botanic garden.

In the sea, nearly 1 M. outside the harbour, is a _Biological Station_ for the promotion of the sponge-culture (comp. p. 381).

From Sfax to _Gafsa_ and _Metlaoui_, see R. 60; to _Djerba_, see R. 62; to _Tunis_ by sea, see R. 64; to _Tripoli_ and _Malta_, see R. 64.

60. From Sfax to Metlaoui viâ Gafsa.

151 M. NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY (Comp. des Phosphates et du Chemin de Fer de Gafsa), in 9¾–10¼ hrs. (27 fr. 20, 20 fr. 65, 14 fr. 60 c.); to Gafsa, 127 M., in 8–9 hrs. (22 fr. 95, 17 fr. 45, 12 fr. 30 c.; return-ticket, valid for 5 days, 32 fr. 15, 24 fr. 40, 17 fr. 20 c.). Railway Restaurant at Graïba only; it is advisable to take provisions.

_Sfax_, see p. 380. The train skirts the inland side of the town and then runs to the S.W., near the coast. To the left rises the lighthouse of _Râs Tina_ (p. 405), near the ruins of _Thaenae_, once the chief harbour for the export of olive-oil from the interior.

18 M. _Oued-Chaffar._ 22½ M. _Maharès_ (pop. 1000), a fishing village and market for the _Mehadla Tribe_, is the last fruit-tree oasis to the S.W. of Sfax. Above it rises an old fortified Bordj. On the left, close to the shore, near the Gabes road (R. 62), is seen the castle of _Ounga_, with its eight towers, which is said to have been built by the knights of Malta (p. 398).

Leaving the coast the train runs to the W., through an almost uninhabited sandy waste, to (39½ M.) _Graïba_ (Rail. Restaurant), from which a diligence plies to Gabes (p. 389).

In the distance appears the bare S. Tunisian hill-country, with _Jebel Bou-Hedma_ (2559 ft.). On the left lie the flats of the large _Sebkha en-Nouaïl_.

61 M. _Mezzouna_, at the N. base of _Jebel Mezzouna_ (1329 ft.), where alfa abounds. 76½ M. _Maknassi_ (hotel), a village of colonists, with olive-groves, and an important alfa station, lies in the _Bled Maknassi_, a monotonous plain on the N. spurs of _Jebel Maknassi_ (1332 ft.). To the N.W. appears _Jebel Majora_ (2871 ft.).

98 M. _Sened_ (1575 ft.), the highest point on the line, with large alfa-stacks, is the station for Sened (1706 ft.), a village 5 M. to the S.E., on the olive-clad slope of _Jebel Biadha_ (3248 ft.).

We now descend through cactus plantations, and in spring through corn-fields, to the _Bled el-Hamra_, a lofty plain to the N. of _Jebel Oum el-Alleg_ (3839 ft.), in the territory of the great nomadic tribe of the _Hamama_. 110½ M. _Aïn-Zannouch_, the only station with good drinking-water. On the right are extensive dunes, formed by disintegration.

The train rounds _Jebel Orbata_ (p. 385) and then enters the valley of the _Oued Baïech_.

127 M. =Gafsa.=—The STATION (about 1000 ft.) lies on the left bank of the stream, 2¼ M. to the S.E. of the old town (diligence twice daily in ½ hr.).

HOTELS. _Hôtel de France_, Place de la Kasba, R. 3–5, B. ¾, déj. or D. 3, pens. 8–10, omn. 1 fr., plain; _Buffet-Hôtel_, at the station.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Place de la Poste.

CARRIAGES (limited in number), 20–25 fr. per day; to Tebessa (p. 315) or to Kairwan (p. 372) 120 fr.—DILIGENCE to Tebessa, see p. 318.—HORSE or MULE (3–5 fr. per day), best obtained through the Contrôle Civil, where tickets for the mosques also are obtained.

_Gafsa_ (1067 ft.; pop. 4500, incl. about 1000 Jews and 360 Europeans), the ancient _Capsa_, is a peaceful little oasis-town, with two hot springs (88–91½° Fahr.) and several cold, rising in or near the river-bed. The old town lies on the edge of the plateau, on the right bank of the Oued Baïech, which almost everywhere else is dry. It has formed a valley about 3 M. broad, between _Jebel Orbata_ (3839 ft.; p. 385), on the E., and the spurs of _Jebel Bou-Ramli_ (3609 ft.) on the N.W., this being the only considerable pass between the S. Tunisian steppe and the shotts (p. 320). The town is sheltered by _Jebel Ben-Younès_ (3002 ft.) and _Jebel Assalah_ from the cold N.W. and N. winds, and like El-Kantara (p. 276) is a portal of the desert. Its mild climate and beautiful oasis render it a fine winter residence for persons of moderate requirements.

Capsa is said to be one of the oldest towns in the interior of Tunisia. Owing to its remote situation in the extreme southern part of his dominions Jugurtha (p. 321) made it one of his headquarters and his treasury; but one morning at dawn, after a nine days’ march from Lares (p. 360), so graphically described by Sallust, it was surprised by Marius and razed to the ground in 106. Under Augustus the town was still in ruins, yet in the 2nd cent. it vied with Thelepte (Feriana, p. 371) as one of the wealthiest towns in S. Tunisia. Through Capsa ran the important caravan-routes between Tebessa and Gabes, those to Feriana, Sbeïtla, and Susa, and viâ Tozeur to the Limes Tripolitanus (p. 412). With the exception of the Piscinæ (see below) all the Roman structures have been demolished for modern building purposes. The town-walls were rebuilt by Solomon (p. 315) in Justinian’s reign, and in the Moorish period were succeeded by a triple mud-built wall, of which scarcely a trace is left. The Byzantine citadel, built of Roman materials, was succeeded by the Moorish Kasba, which the French have now converted into barracks. Since the entry of the French troops in 1881 the mosques have been regarded as desecrated.

From the new _Gafsa-Gare_ quarter a street leads to the Oued Baïech, crosses it, where native washerwomen and thirsty camels often present an entertaining scene, and ascends on the border of the oasis (p. 385) to the old town, dominated by groups of palm-trees and two minarets.

The large Champ de Foire and the _Fondouk_ (p. 281), on the E. side of the town, are full of life when caravans arrive with their dates from the Djerid (p. 386). The corn-market in the _Halle aux Grains_ also is of some importance.

From the Place du Marché (market on Wednesday), at the S. end of the Champ de Foire, the Rue du Gén.-Philebert leads through the town to the Place de la Kasba. Here, on the W. side, rises the _Kasba_, with its towers and white pinnacled walls, once the chief sight at Gafsa, but now the barracks of military convicts. View from the Poste Optique (adm. on application). The _Jewish Quarter_ with its narrow streets, lies to the N.E. of the Place de la Kasba, on the N. side of the town.

The dilapidated Roman PISCINÆ (Arabic _Termid_, from ‘thermæ’) are still used as baths. The Jewish Bath is fed by the Kasba spring. The largest basins, supplied by the hot spring outside the Kasba and chiefly used by the Moslems, are in the _Dâr el-Bey_, to the S.E. of the Place de la Kasba. The men’s bath (Termid er-Rayel), where the children love to dive for sou-pieces, is worth seeing. In the beautifully clear water tiny fish (Chromis, occurring also in the underground waters of the Sahara), little black snakes, and small tortoises disport themselves among the bathers.

A little to the S. of the Piscinæ are the _Souks_. Foremost among their wares are bright-coloured blankets (frechias), burnouses, and carpets (guétifs), mostly made by the _Hamamas_ (p. 383).

The _Sidi Yakûb Mosque_ (Grande Mosquée), to the S.W. of the Dâr el-Bey, one of the oldest in Tunisia, is noteworthy for its interior with nave and eighteen aisles, in the style of the Sidi Okba mosque at Kairwan (p. 374). The minaret, especially towards evening, affords a charming *View of the town and the oasis, and of the finely shaped hills and the yellow desert to the S.

The **=Oasis=, nearly 4 sq. M. in area, the richest and greenest palm-oasis in all Barbary, offers many delightful walks. Most of the paths conveniently overlook the little gardens lying below them, watered by numerous runlets from the Piscinæ.

In the shade of the palms grow apricots, peaches, figs, pomegranates, quinces, almonds, pears, and olives, and here and there oranges and lemons. The vine, with its vigorous and picturesque tendrils, climbs up the palm trees or the nettle-trees (Celtis australis) planted for its support, yielding ripe grapes as early as June. Below all these trees the soil is carpeted, in the cooler season, with vegetables, melons, wheat, and barley. The W. margin of the oasis, however, where water is scarce, yields olives only.

Fine points of view are the hill of _Sidi Bou-Yahia_, crowned with a kubba, on the N.W. margin of the oasis, the _Ksour Nala_, a spur of Jebel Ben-Younès, and, separated from the latter by the depression of the _Foum el-Maza_, _Jebel Assalah_, whence we survey also the steppe stretching to the N. to Jebel Sidi Aïch.

From Gafsa to _Maâjen Bel-Abbès_ (Feriana), see p. 372; viâ Feriana to _Tebessa_, see p. 318.

A ROAD leads to the S.E. viâ the olive-oasis of _El-Ksar_ to (3¾ M.) _Leïla_, a charming little palm-oasis; then, aside from the _Sebkha d’el-Guettar_, to (12½ M.) =El-Guettar= (952 ft.; two caravanserais; pop. 1800), a palm and olive oasis at the S. base of _Jebel Orbata_ (3839 ft.; fine view from the Poste Optique; ascent by bridle-path 2½–3 hrs.). The route from El-Guettar to (83 M.) _Gabes_ (p. 389), leading almost all the way through an arid wilderness, is fit only for those who are used to fatigue and privations. (Poor quarters at _Bir Saâd_ and _El-Haffey_ only.)

Beyond Gafsa the train crosses the Oued Baïech and beyond the oasis it enters the sandy and stony waste between the salt-marsh _Garaet el-Oglal_ (on the right) and the chain of _Jebel Rosfa_ (1411 ft.) and _Jebel Jellabia_ (1346 ft.; to the S.). Beyond the dry bed of the _Oued Melah_ the long range of _Jebel Tarfaoui_ (p. 388) appears far to the left.

We skirt the S. base of _Jebel Stah_ (2953 ft.), _Jebel Tarfai_ (2166 ft.), and _Jebel Metlaoui_ (1805 ft.), all rich in phosphates. These hills, overgrown with alfa-grass only, are, like those near Gafsa, a favourite haunt of the gazelle; the maned sheep (p. 277) also occurs.

151 M. =Metlaoui= (643 ft.; Hôt. Rey, R., déj., D., 3 fr. each, quite good), Arabic _Metlâwi_, on the S. slope of _Jebel Seldja_, not far from the _Oued Seldja_ (p. 372), lies in the heart of the S. Tunisian phosphate-region, which extends to Redeyef (p. 372), to Aïn-Moularès (p. 372), and to Jebel Mrata on the Algerian frontier. The phosphate is detached from the hill-sides by blasting (foudroyage) and then spread out to dry on the ground, where it is turned over several times by ploughs. The works employ about 5000 hands, mostly Italians and natives, and yield about 800,000 tons per annum. Adm. to the ‘Grande Recette’ of the works by leave of M. Bursaux, the manager.

Interesting walk or drive to the (3 M.) *=Gorges du Seldja=, a wild rocky defile (about 4½ M. long) between Jebel Seldja and _Jebel Alima_ (2559 ft.).

For the new railways to _Henchir Souatir_, _Redeyef_, and _Aïn-Moularès_, see p. 372.

61. From Metlaoui to the Djerid.

ROAD viâ (35½ M.) _Tozeur_ to (51 M.) _Nefta_ (railway to the former under construction). A carriage may be hired at one of the inns at Metlaoui, but as the road is bad a mule is preferable. It is best to ride direct to Tozeur (carrying provisions, wine, etc.). Nefta may be visited from Tozeur, El-Oudiane best on the way back from Tozeur to Metlaoui (early start required).

The *=Djerid= (Arabic _Belad el-Jerid_), the narrow isthmus between the _Chott Djérid_ (65–80 ft. above the sea), the largest salt-marsh in Barbary, and the _Chott Rharsa_ (65 ft. below sea-level), with its four picturesque oases of _Tozeur_, _Nefta_, _El-Oudiane_, and _El-Hamma_ (_du Djérid_), is the largest date-palm region in N. Africa. The number of palm-trees is estimated at about a million, but nearly half belong to the ‘hakhana’, an unfruitful species. The yield of dates is 12½–15,000 tons annually, of which 500 tons only are of the transparent variety. They are exported chiefly viâ Gafsa and Sfax. The mildness of the climate (p. 321) adapts Tozeur in particular for winter residence, but malaria is prevalent in summer. The population (about 30,000), which is said to have included scattered remnants of Christian communities down to the 18th cent., is chiefly of Berber origin, but with the Arab nature fully developed.

_Metlaoui_, see above. The road leads to the S.W., through an almost bare waste, at first near the left bank of the Seldja and then down its dry bed.

15½ M. _Bordj Gouïfla_ (269 ft.; no drinking-water), a deserted caravanserai, lies at the junction of the Gafsa road, beyond the influx of the Oued Seldja into the _Oued Melah_ (p. 387). We then skirt the spurs of _Jebel Tarfaoui_ (p. 388). The road to El-Oudiane (p. 388) branches to the left.

Not far from the delta of the Oued Melah we near the _Chott Rharsa_, which in the hot season is reduced to a few streamlets and pools, and next reach the E. border of (30 M.) the oasis of =El-Hamma du Djérid= (164 ft.; Bordj, quarters 1 fr.). This oasis, the smallest in the Djerid, with 900 inhab., about 54,000 palms, and a few olive-trees, has of late had mud-walls (tabias) built to shelter it from sand-drift. The _Hammâm_, a piscina in a kind of palm-hut, whose water (109° Fahr.) is in high favour with the natives, is of Roman origin.

The road crosses the (32½ M.) downs of _Drah Tozeur_ or _Drâht en-Nadour_ (269 ft.), and reveals a striking *View of the green oasis of Tozeur and the glittering surface of the _Chott Djérid_.

35½ M. =Tozeur= (197 ft.; Hôt. Bellevue, R. 3, B. ½, déj. or D. 3 fr., unpretending, with attentive landlady; pop. 10,000, incl. 65 Europeans), the ancient _Tusuros_, Arabic _Tûzer_, is the seat of the authorities of the Djerid. The houses, mostly one-storied, built of crude (tobs) and burned bricks, have a peculiar geometric ornamentation in brick network, which differentiates them from most of those in the other oases. The _Souks_ are less important than those of Nefta (see below). Interesting *Views are obtained from the minarets of the _Zaouïa Sidi Abid_ and the new _Sidi Mouldi Mosque_ (tickets at the Contrôle Civil).

The *OASIS, which is hardly inferior to that of Gafsa in richness and variety of vegetation (p. 385), contains about 420,000 palms. Several hours may be pleasantly spent in riding to the chief points of interest. Leaving the town we ride to the W., viâ _Chabia_ village, with its curious huts of palm-logs, to the _Râs el-Aïoun_, where 194 springs unite to form the _Oued el-Mechta_. We then skirt the S.W. border of the oasis and descend viâ the villages of _Zaouïet-Sahraoui_, _Djehim_ or _Djem_, and _Abbas_ or _Abbès_ to the kubba of _Sidi Ali Bou-Lifa_, near the shott, with a huge and venerable lotus-tree. Thence we should return to Djehim and ride to _Bled el-Adhar_, a village in the W. half of the oasis. The interesting mosque here, the oldest in the Djerid, stands on the site of a Roman temple, which is said to have been converted into a Christian basilica. The *Mihrâb, or prayer-niche, unfortunately whitewashed, dating from 1194, is most elegantly decorated in stucco. We return thence to Tozeur, where the half-dead lotus-tree and the little mosques present a picturesque bit of scenery.

A ROAD, with fine points of view, leads from Tozeur to the W., viâ _Chabia_ (see above) and along the S. margin of the dunes of _Koudiat Oum el-Arouah_ (558 ft.), to (51 M.) =Nefta= (200–300 ft.; Djerid Hotel, R. 3–4, B. 1, déj. or D. 3–4, pens. 8–10 fr., quite good; carr. at the Khalifa’s only; pop. 14,000, incl. many Jews but only a few Europeans), the Roman _Aggarsel Nepte_. The houses resemble those of Tozeur in style, but blocks of gypsum from the vicinity also have been used as building-material. We are struck with the great number of small mosques and zaouïas, among which is the zaouïa of the Kadria (p. 361), the most important in S. Tunisia and a religious house of the Rahmania order. The souks, which are much patronized by the Sahara caravans, offer all the products of the Djerid, such as white frechias (p. 385), burnouses (‘djeridi’), silk haiks, etc.