Category: Travel Writing

Visits to Monasteries in the Levant

Navarino--The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets--Alexandria--An Arab Pilot--Intense Heat--Scene from the Hotel Windows--The Water-Carriers--A Procession--A Bridal Party--Violent mode of clearing the Road--Submissive Behaviour of the People--Astonishing Number of Donkey...

Chapters

47. CHAPTER XVII.

Albania--Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country--Its reported abundance of Game and Robbers--The Disturbed State of the Country--The Albanians--Richness of their Arms--Their...

58. CHAPTER XXVII.

The Monastery of Russico--Its Courteous Abbot--The Monastery of Xeropotamo--Its History--High Character of its Abbot--Excursion to the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionis...

48. CHAPTER XVIII.

Start for Meteora--Rencontre with a Wounded Traveller--Barbarity of the Robbers--Albanian Innkeeper--Effect of the Turkish Language upon the Greeks--Mezzovo--Interview with the...

45. CHAPTER XVI.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Processions of the Copts--The Syrian Maronites and the Greeks--Riotous Behaviour of the Pilgrims--Their immense numbers--The Chant of the Latin Mon...

59. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Caracalla--The Agoumenos--Curious Cross--The Nuts of Caracalla--Singular Mode of preparing a Dinner Table--Departure from Mount Athos--Packing of the MSS.--Difficulties of the W...

57. CHAPTER XXVI.

The Monastery of Stavroniketa--The Library--Splendid MS. of St. Chrysostom--The Monastery of Pantocratoras--Ruinous Condition of the Library--Complete Destruction of the Books--...

55. CHAPTER XXIV.

Monastery of St. Laura--Kind Reception by the Abbot--Astonishment of the Monks--History of the Monastery--Rules of the Order of St. Basil--Description of the Buildings--Curious...

40. CHAPTER XII.

The Island of Philœ--The Cataract of Assouan--The Burial Place of Osiris--The Great Temple of Philœ--The Bed of Pharaoh--Shooting in Egypt--Turtle Doves--Story of the Prince Ana...

49. CHAPTER XIX.

Meteora--The extraordinary Character of its Scenery--Its Caves formerly the Resort of Ascetics--Barbarous Persecution of the Hermits--Their extraordinary Religious Observances--...

33. CHAPTER V.

Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha--Mode of lighting a Room in Egypt--Personal Appearance of the Pasha--His Diamond-mounted Pipe--The lost Handkerchief--An unceremonious Attendan...

44. CHAPTER XV.

Expedition to the Monastery of St. Sabba--Reports of Arab Robbers--The Valley of Jehoshaphat--The Bridge of Al Sirat--Rugged Scenery--An Arab Ambuscade--A successful Parley--The...

42. CHAPTER XIII.

Journey to Jerusalem--First View of the Holy City--The Valley of Gihon--Appearance of the City--The Latin Convent of St. Salvador--Inhospitable Reception by the Monks--Visit to...

35. CHAPTER VII.

Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes--The Desert of Nitria--Early Christian Anchorites--St. Macarius of Alexandria--His Abstinence and Penance--Order of Monks f...

36. CHAPTER VIII.

View from the Convent Wall--Appearance of the Desert--Its grandeur and freedom--Its contrast to the Convent Garden--Beauty and luxuriance of Eastern Vegetation--Picturesque Grou...

54. CHAPTER XXIII.

Coom Calessi--Uncomfortable Quarters--A Turkish Boat and its Crew--Grandeur of the Scenery--Legend of Jason and the Golden Fleece--The Island of Imbros--Heavy Rain Storm--A Roug...

50. CHAPTER XX.

The great Monastery of Meteora--The Church--Ugliness of the Portraits of Greek Saints--Greek Mode of Washing the Hands--A Monastic Supper--Morning View from the Monastery--The L...

53. CHAPTER XXII.

Constantinople--The Patriarch's Palace--The Plague, Anecdotes, Superstitions--The Two Jews--Interview with the Patriarch--Ceremonies of Reception--The Patriarch's Misconception...

56. CHAPTER XXV.

The Monastery of Caracalla--Its beautiful Situation--Hospitable Reception--Description of the Monastery--Legend of its Foundation--The Church--Fine Specimens of Ancient Jeweller...

51. CHAPTER XXI.

We made our way from the plain and rocks of Meteora by a different path from the one by which we had arrived, and travelled along the north side of the valley of the Peneus; we...

38. CHAPTER X.

Ruined Monastery in the Necropolis of Thebes--"Mr. Hay's Tomb"--The Coptic Carpenter--His acquirements and troubles--He agrees to show the MSS. belonging to the ruined Monastery...

30. CHAPTER II.

Rapacity of the Dragomans--The Mahmoudieh Canal--The Nile at Atfeh--The muddy Waters of the Nile--Richness of the Soil--Accident to the Boatmen--Night Sailing--A Collision--A Ve...

29. CHAPTER I.

Navarino--The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets--Alexandria--An Arab Pilot--Intense Heat--Scene from the Hotel Windows--The Water-Carriers--A Procession--A Bridal Party-...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Caracalla--The Agoumenos--Curious Cross--The Nuts of Caracalla--Singular Mode of preparing a Dinner Table--Departure from Mount Athos--Packing of the MSS.--Difficulties of the W...

32. CHAPTER IV.

Early Hours in the Levant--Compulsory Use of Lanterns in Cairo--Separation of the different Quarters of the City--Custom of sleeping in the open air--The Mahomedan Times of Pray...

43. CHAPTER XIV.

The Via Dolorosa--The Houses of Dives and of Lazarus--The Prison of St. Peter--The Site of the Temple of Solomon--The Mosque of Omar--The Hadjr el Sakhara--The Greek Monastery--...

39. CHAPTER XI.

The White Monastery--Abou Shenood--Devastations of the Mamelukes--Description of the Monastery--Different styles of its exterior and interior Architecture--Its ruinous condition...

37. CHAPTER IX.

The Convent of the Pulley--Its inaccessible position--Difficult landing on the bank of the Nile--Approach to the Convent through the Rocks--Description of the Convent and its In...

34. CHAPTER VI.

Mohammed Bey, Defterdar--His Expedition to Senaar--His Barbarity and Rapacity--His Defiance of the Pasha--Stories of his Cruelty and Tyranny--The Horse-shoe--The Fight of the Ma...

31. CHAPTER III.

National Topics of Conversation--The Rising of the Nile; evil effects of its rising too high; still worse consequences of a deficiency of its waters--The Nilometer--Universal Al...

41. PART II.

27. Ante-room to the Holy Sepulchre. In the center is the stone where the Angel sat; on either side the two windows from whence the Holy Fire is delivered to the multitude.

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Processions of the Copts--The Syrian Maronites and the Greeks--Riotous Behaviour of the Pilgrims--Their immense numbers--The Chant of the Latin Mon...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Early Hours in the Levant--Compulsory Use of Lanterns in Cairo--Separation of the different Quarters of the City--Custom of sleeping in the open air--The Mahomedan Times of Pray...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

Meteora--The extraordinary Character of its Scenery--Its Caves formerly the Resort of Ascetics--Barbarous Persecution of the Hermits--Their extraordinary Religious Observances--...

5. CHAPTER V.

Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha--Mode of lighting a Room in Egypt--Personal Appearance of the Pasha--His Diamond-mounted Pipe--The lost Handkerchief--An unceremonious Attendan...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

The Monastery of Russico--Its Courteous Abbot--The Monastery of Xeropotamo--Its History--High Character of its Abbot--Excursion to the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionis...

7. CHAPTER VII.

Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes--The Desert of Nitria--Early Christian Anchorites--St. Macarius of Alexandria--His Abstinence and Penance--Order of Monks f...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

View from the Convent Wall--Appearance of the Desert--Its grandeur and freedom--Its contrast to the Convent Garden--Beauty and luxuriance of Eastern Vegetation--Picturesque Grou...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Albania--Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country--Its reported abundance of Game and Robbers--The Disturbed State of the Country--The Albanians--Richness of their Arms--Their...

10. CHAPTER X.

Ruined Monastery in the Necropolis of Thebes--"Mr. Hay's Tomb"--The Coptic Carpenter--His acquirements and troubles--He agrees to show the MSS. belonging to the ruined Monastery...

3. CHAPTER III.

National Topics of Conversation--The Rising of the Nile; evil effects of its rising too high; still worse consequences of a deficiency of its waters--The Nilometer--Universal Al...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

The Via Dolorosa--The Houses of Dives and of Lazarus--The Prison of St Peter--The Site of the Temple of Solomon--The Mosque of Omar--The Hadjr el Sakhara--The Greek Monastery--I...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

The Monastery of Stavroniketa--The Library--Splendid MS. of St. Chrysostom--The Monastery of Pantocratoras--Ruinous Condition of the Library--Complete Destruction of the Books--...

12. CHAPTER XII.

The Island of Philœ--The Cataract of Assouan--The Burial Place of Osiris--The Great Temple of Philœ--The Bed of Pharaoh--Shooting in Egypt--Turtle Doves--Story of the Prince Ana...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

Journey to Jerusalem--First View of the Holy City--The Valley of Gihon--Appearance of the City--The Latin Convent of St. Salvador--Inhospitable Reception by the Monks--Visit to...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

The Monastery of Caracalla--Its beautiful Situation--Hospitable Reception--Description of the Monastery--Legend of its Foundation--The Church--Fine Specimens of Ancient Jeweller...

1. CHAPTER I.

Navarino--The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets--Alexandria--An Arab Pilot--Intense Heat--Scene from the Hotel Windows--The Water-Carriers--A Procession--A Bridal Party-...

11. CHAPTER XI.

The White Monastery--Abou Shenood--Devastations of the Mamelukes--Description of the Monastery--Different styles of its exterior and interior Architecture--Its ruinous condition...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Mohammed Bey, Defterdar--His Expedition to Senaar--His Barbarity and Rapacity--His Defiance of the Pasha--Stories of his Cruelty and Tyranny--The Horse-shoe--The Fight of the Ma...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

Start for Meteora--Rencontre with a Wounded Traveller--Barbarity of the Robbers--Albanian Innkeeper--Effect of the Turkish Language upon the Greeks--Mezzovo--Interview with the...

20. CHAPTER XX.

The great Monastery of Meteora--The Church--Ugliness of the Portraits of Greek Saints--Greek Mode of Washing the Hands--A Monastic Supper--Morning View from the Monastery--The L...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Expedition to the Monastery of St. Sabba--Reports of Arab Robbers--The Valley of Jehoshaphat--The Bridge of Al Sirat--Rugged Scenery--An Arab Ambuscade--A successful Parley--The...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

Monastery of St. Laura--Kind Reception by the Abbot--Astonishment of the Monks--History of the Monastery--Rules of the Order of St. Basil--Description of the Buildings--Curious...

9. CHAPTER IX.

The Convent of the Pulley--Its inaccessible position--Difficult landing on the bank of the Nile--Approach to the Convent through the Rocks--Description of the Convent and its In...

2. CHAPTER II.

Rapacity of the Dragomans--The Mahmoudieh Canal--The Nile at Atfeh--The muddy Waters of the Nile--Richness of the Soil--Accident to the Boatmen--Night Sailing--A Collision--A Ve...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

Coom Calessi--Uncomfortable Quarters--A Turkish Boat and its Crew--Grandeur of the Scenery--Legend of Jason and the Golden Fleece--The Island of Imbros--Heavy Rain Storm--A Roug...

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Constantinople--The Patriarch's Palace--The Plague, Anecdotes, Superstitions--The Two Jews--Interview with the Patriarch--Ceremonies of Reception--The Patriarch's Misconception...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Return Journey--Narrow Escape--Consequences of Singing--Arrival at the Khan of Malacash--Agreeable Anecdote--Parting from the Robbers at Messovo--A Pilau--Wet Ride to Paramathia...

52. PART IV.

46. PART III.