CHAPTER VII.

Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes--The Desert of Nitria--Early Christian Anchorites--St. Macarius of Alexandria--His Abstinence and Penance--Order of Monks founded by him--Great increase of the Number of ascetic Monks in the Fourth Century--Their subsequent decrease, and the present ruined state of the Monasteries--Legends of the Desert--Capture of a Lizard--Its alarming escape--The Convent of Baramous--Night attacks--Invasion of Sanctuary--Ancient Glass Lamps--Monastery of Souriani--Its Library and Coptic MSS.--The Blind Abbot and his Oil-cellar--The persuasive powers of Rosoglio--Discovery of Syriac MSS.--The Abbot's supposed treasure 75