CHAPTER V.

Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha--Mode of lighting a Room in Egypt--Personal Appearance of the Pasha--His Diamond-mounted Pipe--The lost Handkerchief--An unceremonious Attendant--View of Cairo from the Citadel--Site of Memphis; its immense extent--The Tombs of the Caliphs--The Pasha's Mausoleum--Costume of Egyptian Ladies--The Cobcob, or Wooden Clog--Mode of dressing the Hair--The Veil--Mistaken Idea that the Egyptian Ladies are Prisoners in the Harem; their power of doing as they like--The Veil a complete Disguise--Laws of the Harem--A Levantine Beauty--Eastern Manners--The Abyssinian Slaves--Arab Girls--Ugliness of the Arab Women when old--Venerable Appearance of the old Men--An Arab Sheick 47