A dictionary of men's wear

Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men’s wear trades expressiv of raw and finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling...

=Army trunk=—any t. designed for army (or navy) officers’ use, commonly provided with trays and compartments for saber, hats, shoes, in addition to the usual provisions for suit...

=Bellows pocket=—an outside or patch p. made with an extension strip or bellows-fold around sides and bottom, making such p. larger and more capacious than the flat patch p., an...

=Breaking test=—in general, linen fabrics are more difficult to break than those of cotton. The broken edge of linen shows threads that are long and irregular, the projecting fi...

=Cape Ann suit=—a s. of oiled or painted waterproof material worn by fishermen, sailors, et al., consisting of a coat buttoning or clasping close to the throat with a laid over...

=Clerical collar=—(1) a coat and waistcoat c., straight standing, not turned over, similar to that known as military c. (qv); on the waistcoat, however, the clerical c. buttons...

=Cotton classification=—the New York commercial classification is (1) full grades: fair, middling fair, good middling, middling, low middling, good ordinary, ordinary; (2) half...

=Dinner jacket=—an informal dress coat without tails, somewhat like a sack coat, for dinner wear, men’s evening parties, but not where ladies are present, as at balls, operas, e...

=Eau de Cologne=—a strongly perfumed toilet water; properly, that for which the city of Cologne is celebrated. In this city the industry was establisht in the beginning of the 1...

=Felt=—properly a fabric made by interlocking or compacting wool, fur or hair, or a mixture thereof, by rolling or pressure, without weaving, often with the aid of glue and heat...

=Foulard=—properly a light-weight silk fabric, woven plain or twilled, printed with an all-over pattern, the designs of which are white or color of the fabric, the background so...

=Gag=—investiture for the mouth, of any sufficient model, style, or material, worn at discretion when the alternativ might be hurtful, usually applied by burglars who object to...

=Hand shaping=—term generally applied to shoulders and coat fronts, indicating that the interlinings were cut and sewed together by h., being workt into shape during the latter...

=Insignia of rank=—(=army=) devices worn on the collar of the uniform, as follows: general and lieutenant general, such as they may prescribe; major general, two silver stars; b...

=Lay-up=—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp knife a number of collars or par...

=Mercerized=—a term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated and the fabric finisht by a combined chemical-mechanical process described below; also appl...

=Navajo blanket=—a stout, heavy woolen b. primitivly woven by the Navajo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico, of fantastic color combinations and so closely woven and compacted th...

=Oxford mixture=—in woolen cloth weaving an effect produced by combining two threads of black and white or gray into one yarn in the spinning process, or by blending two shades...

=Plunge dyed=—term for leathers dyed by immersion and consequently of one color on both sides; used principally in glove trade to distinguish from leathers dyed only on the surf...

=Raglan=—a loose overcoat, the sleeves of which continue over the shoulders up to the collar. Named after Lord Raglan, who devised a similar garment for the protection of his so...

=Saber belt=—(=army=) a waist b. with detachable slings, to be worn outside the full dress coat, by all officers except chaplains. For general officers, except brigadier general...

=Service coat=—(=army=) for officers: a single-breasted sack c. of olive-drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, made with 4 outside choked-bellows pockets (2 above and 2...

=Side edge=—a sort of ornamental welt, placket or rever inserted into the plait seam of the (skirt-) back of skirted uniform and livery coats, variously shaped but usually contr...

=South street=—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s., N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap...

=Street railway conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads and in different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat double-breasted in winter and si...

=Thread-about=—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-w...

=Undress=—(=navy=) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions. Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers, except bandmasters, officers’ stewards a...

=Warp=—in mill parlance “a warp” is the quantity of chain required to fully equip a loom, about 400 yards or enough for eight 50-yard pieces of a pattern, which is the least a m...

=Wool=—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to classify it into three grand divisions, to wit: (1)...

─────────────┬───────┬──────┬───────┬────────┬───────┬────┬──────── │EVENING│TUXEDO│CUTAWAY│ SACK │NORFOLK│TOP │RAINCOAT │ DRESS │ COAT │ OR │ COAT, │JACKET │COAT│ │ COAT │ │WAL...

Compare the measurements as written on the order sheet with the foregoing chart. While there may be some variation, due to physical differences, and for which scientific allowan...

═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════ SIZE │ LENGTH │ AGES ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 2 │ 29 in. │...

=New Haven Grays=, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1816. The dress uniform of iron-gray cloth, consisting of a coatee with nine rows of braid across the front and three rows of butto...