Part 18
=Oxford mixture=—in woolen cloth weaving an effect produced by combining two threads of black and white or gray into one yarn in the spinning process, or by blending two shades of raw wool in the carding process, the finisht effect being a cloth of black or dark steel ground, lightly sprinkled or mixt with white. In the lighter shadings frequently called “Cambridge mixture”.
=Oxford shirting=—a soft, plain-woven cotton fabric having loom-produced checks, stripes, or figures.
=Oxford tie=—a low shoe, laced and tied at the instep, and by extension any low shoe, as “buttoned oxfords”.
P
=Pack basket=—a b. of splints or rattan covered with canvas, with shoulder straps; used by hunters, prospectors, et al.
=Pack cloth=—a rectangular length of waterproof canvas useful to campers, hunters, et al.
=Pack harness=—an arrangement of leather straps for converting hunters, prospectors, et al., into beasts of burden.
=Pad=—in tailoring a flat, compact cushion or mattress-shaped implement laid upon the lap-board or any other pressing-board and used in “pressing-off” and giving form and finish to a garment. Its elasticity accommodates it to any inequalities of the garment and therefore the whole surface is reacht by the pressure of the iron and made smoother and solider than it could be without its use. See Looney.
=Pad=—see Hat p.
=Pad=—(1) to stuff or build up a garment with wadding; (2) to apparently increase one’s proportions.
=Padded=—given a false physique.
=Padded dress=—an obscene way of emphasizing the d. of trousers once current among certain Michigan college boys.
=Paddies=—pantalets.
=Padding=—felt, cotton or wool used for giving shape to garments; wadding.
=Padding stitches=—(tailoring) similar in appearance to zigzag or herringbone basting s.; in making, the needle may or may not go entirely thru one of the pieces of goods, according to the nature of the work in hand; also the s. may be held together in close rows or loosely spaced; properly made, these s. aid much in shaping of garments.
=Paddock=—according to the best authorities this is a single-breasted frock overcoat with sewed-on skirts, tho this form is more popularly known as the “Paletot” (qv), while the “Paddock” is usually shown as a coat with skirted back and one-piece front with a waistline cut partly into same, from which underarm V’s extend and give shapeliness. The two terms are used interchangeably by most American tailors’ journals.
=Padisway=—an old name for peau de soie.
=Page’s livery=—short, tight-fitting jacket with one or three rows of buttons, closing at the throat with military collar; trousers without side or back pockets (tho two large watch or waistband pockets are permissible), corded or piped at side seams to match trimming, if any, of coat.
=Paisley=—a town in Scotland famous for its textil manufactures and especially for a fine class of shawls resembling the finest India shawls; also a name given to the distinctiv “palm” or figure of such shawls.
=Pajamarite=—proprietary name for a combination sleeping garment resembling pajamas but made in one piece, with certain features of the union suit (undergarment) embodied.
=Pajamas=—loose cotton or silk sleeping drawers or trousers, fastened around the waist with a draw-string; by extension the term now includes the loose coat or blouse sold with the foregoing. In the East Indies p. are worn by both sexes, both as sleeping and lounging wear.
=Paletot=—popularly a single-breasted frock overcoat with skirts sewed on at the waistline, but according to the best authorities a coat with a skirted back and a one-piece front into which a waistline is partly cut, extending therefrom being one or two underarm V’s. Compare “Paddock”.
=Pall=—a large square of cloth thrown over a coffin.
=Pall-bearers=—friends complaisantly wearing crepe for a few hours prior to finally dumping us into the dirt.
=Pallium=—an ecclesiastical vestment of the Roman Catholic church worn by the pope, patriarchs and archbishops; it is a band of white woolen webbing, about 3 inches wide, embroidered with black crosses worn around the neck, and from which two narrow bands of same material depend, one falling on the breast and the other over the back.
=Palm=—that part of a glove covering the inside of the hand.
=Panache=—variegated.
=Panama hat=—a h. made from the young, unexpanded leaves of the stemless screwpine (also called jiji japa) specially treated to remove the soft part of the leaf, soaked in water until pliable, the hats then being woven by hand in exceedingly moist atmosphere, the very finest h. often requiring six months to weave.
=Pancake=—the flat cap worn by tars in the grandoldamerican navy.
=Pancake heel=—a h. of imitation sole leather composed of leather scivings and cement prest to look like sides of sole leather, called “pancake”.
=Paneled back=—tailoring term for the inside back of a coat made with broad facings of the coat material around seams and edges, and filled in with (panels of) silk or other lining.
=Panjam=—see Punjum.
=Pantalet=—a child’s underdrawer.
=Pantaloon trousers=—the same upward as pantaloons but cut straight to the instep from the calf downward; substantially the same as our modern trousers (qv); when finisht with loops or buttons at the side (bottom) they were called Wellingtons, doubtless from having been first worn by the military. (Early 1900.)
=Pantaloonery=—a little used trade term for fabrics of which pants or trousers are made. The proper term is “trouserings”.
=Pantaloons=—close-fitting nethergarments reaching midway between the calf and the ankle, with an opening therein closing with buttons, worn with gaiters, boots or over the stockings only, during the early part of the last century.
=Panties=—familiar term for (1) children’s knee pants; (2) children’s drawers; and more loosely or jocularly (3) men’s ditto.
=Panting=—cloth suitable for trousers. See Trousering.
=Pantorium=—coined name for pressing and cleaning institutions where it is pretended to care for your clothes, usually at a rate per month.
=Pants=—“gent’s” trousers.
=Pants block=—see Tailor’s b.
=Pants maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes trousers his specialty.
=Paper cloth=—see Xylolin and Wood yarn.
=Paper collar=—a shirt c. made of paper stamped into a resemblance of linen, formerly used in enormous quantities (the consumption prior to 1883 being estimated at 70,000,000 annually), but now comparativly unknown.
=Paper garments=—a recent invention. The idea contains the germ of untold possibilities.
=Paper sole=—derisiv of thin-soled shoes.
=Paper yarn=—a textil y. made of wood cellulose and more properly known as wood y. (qv). See Xylolin.
=Para rubber=—wild r. from Brazil and Bolivia; the finest commercial grade.
=Pappoose frame=—an Indian baby cradle and perambulator.
=Paragon frame=—the metal ribs of an umbrella; a proprietary name for ribs of U shape.
=Paring-off=—in tailoring the process of paring- or trimming off the surplus cloth along the margin of a garment, when the edges are to be finisht raw.
=Paring-shears=—tailor’s s. or scissors made expressly for paring the edges of garments.
=Park coat=—a sort of cutaway frock c., worn for riding exclusively, fitting snugly at waist and having extra ample skirts.
=Partridge=—a hard, variously markt, striated wood used for walking sticks.
=Partridge cord=—a name sometimes given to mottled corduroy resembling in effect the markings of the partridge.
=Paspol=—in tailoring, a cloth-bound edge or piping employed as a finish to pockets.
=Passe=—faded; old-fashioned; worn out; behind the times.
=Paste=—formerly used to stiffen coats, but not nowadays.
=Patch=—(1) any ornamental bits of court plaster used on the face as adjuncts to beauty; (2) a mended place in our clothes with reminiscences of our youth or as a badge of indigence.
=Patch flap=—a pocket f. laid-on outside.
=Patch pocket=—a p. made of the goods of the garment and patcht or sewed on to the outside thereof, no cutting thru and no lining being required. Also called patcht p. See also Bellows p.
=Patchouli=—a strong, peculiar oriental perfume, as offensiv to some as it is pleasing to others; once of considerable popularity amongst ladies of definit reputation (which reputation still clings to it), which may account for its masculin popularity.
=Patcht welt pocket=—a p., the slit or opening of which is cut thru a patcht-on piece of the garment material, which may be of fancy shape, generally so made for extra strength, as in conductors’ coats. (=Patched p.=)
=Patent beaver=—a superior quality of beaver cloth with an especially hard finish and fulled to a degree making it practically waterproof; similar to Castor b. (qv).
=Patent leather=—name synonymously applied to all so-called “shiny” leather; that is, upper leathers that have been treated with a coat of japanning or varnish on one side, giving the leather a very glossy, black, smooth finish.
=Patent neckband=—general name for shirt n. having a split or pocketed division in the back so that the back collar button does not touch the skin of the wearer because of an interposing layer of cloth.
=Patrolmen’s uniform=—see Police u.
=Patten=—a thick-soled overshoe, or one having a device for raising the foot out of the wet and mud; a clog; a sort of slipper. Term now in disuse. See Overshoe.
=Pattern paper=—rough-surfaced drafting p. put up in rolls, used by cutters; usually black, dark green or blue; also manilla.
=Pauldron=—a detachable piece of plate armor for the protection of the shoulders.
=Pavilion=—the lower pyramid of a diamond. See Brilliant cutting.
=Pea coat=—a seaman’s jacket. See P. jacket.
=Pea jacket=—a short, heavy coat of thick, closely woven cloth, as pilot cloth, worn in rough weather; a sailor’s j.
=Peacockery=—ostentatious display of fine clothes; affectation in attire and manner; distressing vanity.
=Peak=—visor.
=Peakt lapel=—having the notch or step cut at an acute angle.
=Pearl=—the beautiful concretion found in the interior of the shells of many mollusks, resulting in the deposit of nacreous substances around some nucleus usually of foreign origin; the p. oyster of the Indian seas yields the most numerous and finest specimens.
=Peascod bellied=—referring to stuft doublets.
=Peau de soie=—a heavy, close-woven, soft finisht, plain colored silk fabric having minute weftwise ribs, the better grades finisht alike on both sides, the cheaper face finisht only.
=Peau d’espagne=—a perfume having the characteristics of the scent of Spanish leather, whence name.
=Pebble goat=—a shoe leather having a surface grain achieved by means of machinery.
=Peddler=—a peripatetic merchant; a street hawker.
=Pedometer=—a good thing to prove walking lies by.
=Peeler=—general term for long-stapled cotton grown in the Mississippi valley.
=Peepiehole=—the little opening in front of a boy’s first pants.
=Peg leg=—wooden.
=Peg-top=—trousers cut wide and full around the hips and narrowing sharply down to the ankle.
=Pegging jack=—a clamp for holding a shoe while it is being pegged.
=Pegging machine=—a m. for nailing (or pegging) soles to the uppers (of shoes).
=Pekin=—textil designing term for warpwise alternating stripes of different colors.
=Pelage=—the coat or covering of a fur mammal.
=Pelerine=—a long, narrow cape (now in disuse).
=Pelisse=—(1) a long outergarment or cloak with openings for the arms, originally of fur or lined with fur; (2) a dragoon’s jacket with shaggy lining.
=Pelt=—a skin or hide.
=Peltry=—same thing.
=Pen clothes=—see Prison uniform.
=Pen-knife=—originally a pocket k. intended for the making of quill-pens.
=Penang lawyer=—a cane with a very large round head, common in Penang and on the Malay peninsula.
=Pencil curl=—hatter’s term for a brim the edge of which is turned over upon itself, forming a cable-like edge of about the thickness of a pencil.
=Pencil pocket=—a small, narrow p. for pencil, fountain pen, etc.; usually a partition of one of the regular breast pockets of a waistcoat.
=Pencil stripe=—in weaving, fine stripes of color on a contrasting ground; a hairline or slightly coarser.
=Peplum=—loosely, a short skirt to a jacket.
=Pepper-and-salt=—a textil color effect, as of a dark or light ground, sprinkled or dotted with light or dark specks, properly achieved by two-color twisted yarns, usually in combinations of black and white.
=Pepperell=—a slightly twilled muslin.
=Per cent=—the fetich of Israel.
=Percale=—a fine, close, plain-woven cotton fabric, similar to cambric, woven of smooth, round yarns, carefully drest without gloss and usually printed in shirting patterns, tho also solid white and also in printed stripes for garment lining, the fabric being slightly sized in this case; the lower grades not much better than calico.
=Percaline=—a fine, light-weight cotton lining material.
=Perching=—the process of inspecting woolen fabrics as taken from the loom and removing knots, burs, and other imperfections preparatory to fulling; holes, if any, being first darned.
=Perching=—a process in leather manufacture following that of knee staking, the skins being held in a long vise, the operator adjusting the crutch of a long circular knife against his armpit and pressing hard against the flesh side of the skin to remove the last vestige of flesh.
=Perfect fit=—something you might be ashamed to be seen in.
=Perfumery=—formerly used to disguise the odors of the unbathed body—and still so used, of course.
=Periwig=—a formal wig; not such a bundle of vanity as a peruke.
=Perrin’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine French kid gloves manufactured by Perrin Freres (lately changed to Perrin et Cie), Paris, of world-wide fame.
=Persian lamb=—the fur of the young black Persian sheep of Southern Persia, further enhanced in luster by dyeing; one of the most valuable and best wearing furs. Compare Astrakhan and Broadtail.
=Perspectiv glass=—Briticism for field g.
=Peruke=—a voluminous and prolix wig.
=Perruquier=—wig maker; barber; hair dresser.
=Peter=—slang for watch, especially a repeating watch, as a jeweler might say to a customer comparing time, “How’s your peter?”
=Peter pan=—a boy’s blouse or shirt; a vogue of the Buster Brown and Fauntleroy virulence.
=Petersham=—a kind of heavy woolen cloth for overcoats. It has a rough, knotty surface, and is sometimes called “niggerhead”. A very heavy, close-felted variety of this cloth is called “cordington”; the finer, softer kinds, “chinchilla” (qv).
=Petticoat=—originally an undercoat or waistcoat as worn (1400–1600) under the longer outer coat.
=Petticoat breeches=—wide, flaring knee b. of colonial sailors.
=Petticoat trousers=—a kind of kilt formerly worn by seamen in general but latterly principally by fishermen. See Galligaskins.
=Phelonion=—a white or reddish vestment similar to the Latin chasuble (qv) but reaching only to the waist, worn by lectors and readers in the Greek and Russian churches.
=Photograph case=—usually a leather, folding, screen-like affair for holding portraits of actresses.
=Phylactery=—a strip or strips of cowhide parchment inscribed with passages of Scripture and encased in a black calfskin case having thongs for binding it on the forehead or around the left arm in memory of the early history of the Jewish race and of one’s duty to observe the law, or, also, to serve as an amulet.
=Picayune=—a Spanish coin worth 6¼ cents, current during Civil war times; later applied to the 5-cent piece.
=Piccadilly=—a fashionable residence street in London, whence many names for articles of masculin attire.
=Piccadilly collar=—a standing shirt c. with points sharply turned back forming triangles or wings; also called “white wings” and wing c.
=Piccadilly toe=—a name once given to a sharp-pointed t.—but which, like most shoe names, is now almost forgotten.
=Pick=—(1) the insertion of a thread of weft; (2) the blow which drives the shuttle thru the warp threads; (3) the speed per minute of a loom; (4) the number of threads countable within a definit space.
=Picker=—a machine for opening, cleaning and mixing cotton or wool.
=Pickle=—see Tan liquor.
=Picklock=—see Wool.
Picot—an ornamental loopt edging on ribbons, etc.
=Piece dye=—trade term for cloths dyed after weaving or in the piece, as serges, clays, broadcloths, unfinisht, etc. Compare Skein dyes.
=Piece goods=—woolens and other textil fabrics sold by the bolt or piece.
=Piece goods trade=—the jobbing trade. Compare Cutting-up trade and Selling agent.
=Piecing-out=—in tailoring the act of sewing together added or spliced pieces which are sometimes necessary in facing garments, or in making the crotch or back-waist part of trousers, is called “piecing them out”; also “dog-rabbitting”.
=Piffle=—(1) the customer’s expressions of his needs and desires; (2) the salesman’s arguments in favor of something else.
=Pig-tail=—the common twisted chewing tobacco.
=Pig-tail wig=—a w. with a long tail worn hanging down or tied up with a bow. Tempus George II.-III.
=Pigeon-toed=—the toes inclining or pointing inwardly.
=Pigskin=—a stout, coarse-grained leather made of hog’s hide.
=Piker=—the smallest thing living; an ostentatious buyer and heavy canceller; a short-string merchant; a trifler; a kike.
=Pillow=—slang for catcher’s mitten.
=Pillow-case=—a good thing to hit when ausgespielt.
=Pilot cloth=—a heavy, woolen overcoating c., smooth faced, similar to kersey or beaver, usually dyed navy blue, and intended for marine wear.
=Pimento=—a peculiar and handsome wood grown in Jamaica, possessing a grain or texture susceptible of a very high polish; much used for walking sticks.
=Pin=—a little article having many worthier uses than to bend crookedly for teacher’s chair.
=Pin check=—in weaving, a name given to minute checks or squares, effected thru colored yarns, resembling pin heads in size.
=Pin rib=—a very delicate rib or cord.
=Pin seal=—trade term for s. leather (qv) having a very fine, close grain. Compare Cow s.
=Pin tucks=—plaits about one-sixteenth of an inch wide.
=Pinafore=—the sleeveless aprons we wore to keep our dresses clean, at table and elsewhere, when we were young.
=Pince nez=—eye-glasses held in place by a spring that clamps the nose.
=Pinch collar=—same as meeting folder.
=Pinchbeck=—4 parts copper, 1 of zinc, looks like gold.
=Pine tree=—trade name for a cloth made of long fleece wool, knitted 108 inches wide and by washing in hot water and soap shrunk to 56 inches wide; mostly used for outdoor clothing in the North.
=Pine wool=—the decorticated fiber of pine shats, spun into a coarse yarn and used in a limited way for knitted “health garments” and for bagging. Also called fir-wool. See also Vegetable flannel and Wood w.
=Pining out=—in hat making the act or process of squeezing the water out of a hat body with a round stick similar to a kitchen rolling pin.
=Pink=—alleged English for red; used only in connection with hunting coats (properly scarlet refines).
=Pink=—a color not to be worn by boy babies.
=Pink coat=—imputed English name for red hunting coats.
=Pinkie=—the little finger (colloquial).
=Pinking=—(n) puncht scallops along the edge of a lining or other part of a garment or article, taking the place of and needing no binding or other finish; (v) the act or process of punching a scallopt pattern on the margin of fabrics, leather, etc.
=Pinking iron=—a cutting tool used in scalloping leather, cloth, etc.—driven by blows of a mallet.
=Pinning blanket=—one of our first acquaintances among clothes; a barrow coat.
=Pipe=—jewelry trade term for collar buttons, rings, cuff buttons, etc., made of hollow metal instead of being cast, forged or drawn solid.
=Pipe case=—a pocket container invented for the presumable purpose of preventing the odor of a foul pipe from permeating one’s clothes.
=Pipe-clay=—a white clay used in whitening military accoutrements, and by wearers of white shoes for making a muss around the house.
=Piped-edge=—in tailoring an e. finish obtained by placing a strip of cloth, usually contra color, between the joined edges so that the extra strip or piping, which usually encloses a cord for firmness and prominence, shall slightly project or show beyond the turnback of the e.
=Piped pocket=—made as a jetted p., but with an edge piece of other contrasting material as velvet, colored cloth, etc.
=Piped seam=—see Corded s.
=Piping=—a covered cord for trimming, applied along edges and seams.
=Pique=—a stout ribbed or welted cotton fabric woven of two sets of warp (1) “slack”, forming the face, and (2) “tight”, engaging the “slack” in the ribs or welts, which are filled in with soft weft to swell them. Also woven in figured patterns, in which case better known as Marseilles.
=Pique seam=—(glove term) one edge of the join overlapping the other and stitcht thru and thru, much used for back seams. Also called flat s. and lap s.
=Pistol pocket=—usually the right hip p. in trousers.
=Pitch=—balance, as, of a coat; hang.
=Pitcher’s toe plate=—see T. plate.
=Pith helmet=—a light h. made from the pith of an Indian tree, first worn by the English army in Egypt.
=P. K.=—glove trade abbreviation for pique, which see.
=Placket=—an arrangement for closing any open part of a garment by means of concealed buttons or snaps; a fly (qv).
=Plaid=—colored bars or stripes crossing each other at right angles; a tartan pattern.
=Plaid=—a traveling rug or shawl, so called from the commonest patterns being plaids.
=Plaid=—a long piece of Scotch woolen, in clan or tartan colors, worn over the shoulders and fastened at the belt in such a manner as to form a kilt (qv); the name applies even if the goods are plain.
=Plaid-back covert=—see Albert cloth.
=Plaiding=—(1) a stout twilled woolen fabric, similar to flannel; (2) one of the old names for kersey, of a grade used for men’s plaids or kilts.
=Plain clothes man=—a policeman out of uniform.
=Plain edge=—in tailoring, a finish to the edges of garments showing no rows of stitching on the outer surface; properly attained by means of a felling or prick stitch and in manner as described under those terms; a blind e.
=Plain seam=—tailoring term for goods sewed together, face to face, and then turned right side out, each side of the s. turned back and prest flat. Also called regular s.
=Plain weave=—that in which every second warp thread is above the filling thread, while the alternate threads are below, and the positions of the warp threads are reversed for the next filling thread; or to say it differently, one set of threads crossing another series at right angles, passing over and under each other in regular alternation and succession.
=Plait=—a flattened sewed fold or gather.
=Plaited bosom=—a shirt b. arranged in one way or box plaits.
=Plaited trousers=—see Cossacks.
=Planter=—a wide brimmed, soft felt hat with a fairly large crown, worn without dents or creases.
=Plastron=—a sort of shield bosom effect noticed principally on uniform coats.
=Plastron=—a protecting shield worn by fencers.
=Plastron=—a flat scarf or cravat of white wash goods, worn by coachmen; also called punjaub and claudent.
=Plated=—jeweler’s term for baser metals electro-plated with gold or silver; also for cheap jewelry made thereof. Compare Washt, Rolled gold, Gold filled, Solid gold, etc.
=Plated=—term in knitting for hosiery and underwear woven with an outer-face of silk on a wool foundation, or silk on cotton, or wool on cotton, etc.
=Plated=—hatters’ term for hats of which the face or nap is of fur on a body of wool.
=Pleat=—plait is correct.
=Pleating=—a process in leather manufacture where the skins, after staining and trimming, are folded flesh to flesh, preparatory to going to the coloring department for color-finishing. (Plaiting?)
=Plebeskin=—a West Point term for the fatigue jacket.
=Plisse=—a shirred effect produced in weaving.