Part 24

=South street=—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s., N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap clothing.

=Southern ties=—laced low shoes, slightly higher than Oxfords, similar to the Blucher model, but with the tops beginning farther back toward the sides of the foot.

=Sou’wester=—a tarpaulin hat with a broad, drooping brim, especially so behind to protect the neck.

=Sox=—vulgar for half hose (qv).

=Spaced front=—trade term for folded shirt collars more or less cut away in f., meeting or not meeting at point of fold. Compare Meeting folder. Term also applied to straight standing collars having an opening or space in f.

=Spanish cape=—a semi-military c.

=Spanish linen=—a strong, plain woven fabric of l. warp and cotton filling, 27 inches wide. Said to be fast color, non-creasable and washable without mildew; of weight suitable for office coats, shirts, pajamas, etc.; formerly made entirely by hand, but nowadays by machinery.

=Sparkler=—diamond.

=Sparrowtails=—see Swallowtail.

=Spat puttee=—a p. legging covering the instep.

=Spats=—overgaiters.

=Spatterdash=—a sort of overgaiter or legging.

=Special full dress=—(=army=) see Evening d. uniform.

=Special full dress=—(=navy=) worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving the President, any foreign ruler or member of royal family; at special ceremonies or entertainments; at general muster on first Sunday of every month; receptions to ex-Presidents, to Vice President or Secretary of Navy. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—special f. d. coat, f. d. trousers, cockt hat; epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, white gloves, medals and badges; for the commissioned officers excepted above, and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as “full dress”; (=marine corps=) worn on the same or similar occasions. Consists of—for major general commandment: f. d. coat, special f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword, f. d. sword, belt and knot, epaulets, white standing collar, black shoes, white gloves (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for all officers of the line: a similar uniform except that chapeau and sash belong to the higher rank, and that f. d. trousers are worn; for staff officers: a uniform similar to that of the major general commandant excepting there is no sash and that shoulder knots and aigulets are worn instead of epaulets; for leaders and all members of the band (to be worn on occasions of indoor functions at which the band has to play, or other special occasions when ordered): special f. d. coat, special f. d. trousers, special f. d. cap, sword with f. d. sword knot and belt (leader only), shoulder knots (leader only), white gloves and black leather shoes.

=Special full dress cap=—(=marine corps=) for leader of the band, of blue cloth, same pattern and style as f. d. cap of officers of the line. For second leader and musicians, of scarlet cloth, same model as f. d. cap of other enlisted men.

=Special full dress coat=—(=navy=) for officers: a full-buttoned, double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth, lined with white silk serge, waist descending to top of the hip bone, the skirts commencing at about one-fourth of the circumference from the middle of the front edge and descending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee with two large navy buttons on the waist behind and one near the bottom of each fold or plait; two rows of large navy buttons on the breast, 9 each; standing collar with V opening; the collar and cuffs covered with gold lace, braid, bands of colored cloth, etc., as prescribed in regulations according to rank of officer, and with appropriate epaulets, etc.; (=marine corps=) for leader of the band, a sack c. of scarlet cloth made after the same pattern as prescribed for first lieutenant marine corps, except no opening for sword; the front edges, around bottom, vents and sleeves trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid, backed with ⅛ in. gold tracing braid; collar similarly trimmed; gold tubular braiding across breast in the same manner as prescribed for first lieutenant, with gold crochet buttons and olives; seams between side body and backpart trimmed with 2 rows of gold tubular braid; other details as prescribed. For second leader of band, the same, except that the cuffs are trimmed with black mohair braid. For musicians of band, a fly-front sack c. of scarlet cloth, cut half close, standing collar of black broadcloth piped with white, pointed cuffs ditto, shoulder straps ditto; edges, bottom and vents trimmed with 1 in. black mohair braid backt with ⅛ in. black mohair tracing braid, side body seams trimmed with black mohair tubular braid; fronts trimmed with black mohair tubular braid, 5 across, terminating in frogs, olives, etc.; otherwise as prescribed.

=Special full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. gold lace with a 3–16 in. scarlet silk stripe thru center; for staff officers, the same without scarlet stripe; for line officers, of sky-blue cloth, outseams trimmed with 1½ in. gold lace with edges of scarlet cloth welted ¼ in.; for leader of band, of dark blue cloth, the same as prescribed for staff officers, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid. For second leader and musicians, the same except a 1 in. stripe of scarlet cloth down outer seams.

=Special patrolman’s uniform=—(New York) a double-breasted sack coat of gray cloth reaching halfway to knee, buttoning close to throat with 5 buttons, no outside pockets. Trousers to match with a red welt on outer seam. Overcoat, of same color, double-breasted sack style, reaching 3 inches below knee, closing with 6 buttons (2 rows), with rolling collar. Cap, navy pattern of same color. In summer, uniform may be of gray flannel.

=Special sale=—an advertising makeshift when goods move slowly or times are dull.

=Special uniforms=—thruout the military and naval services of the United States, whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of these services are required to appear together in uniform, as prescribed under designations Uniform A, Uniform B, and Uniform C, which see.

=Specialty mark=—(=navy=) an embroidered device forming a part of the rating badge (qv), indicating occupation of the wearer, as master at arms, boatswains mates, blacksmiths, yeomen, printers, etc.

=Specie bag=—a medium-sized strong leather hand b., carried by bank messengers.

=Spectacle case=—a c. for holding and protecting spectacles when not in use. See Eyeglass holder.

=Spectacles=—a device for aiding eyesight—a pair of lenses attacht to a metal bridge and hinged bows, the latter usually curved to hook around the ears, tho formerly made to clasp the temples; the lenses sometimes enclosed in a frame or rim.

=Spence cotton=—a variety of c. grown in India, having a strong, wiry staple of 1 to 1¼ inches in length, the “trees” producing it frequently attaining a hight of 6 to 7 feet.

=Spencer=—a short, scant, top coat not covering the undercoat, invented by Lord Spencer, about 1792, on a bet that he could set a fashion, wholly meaningless and unnecessary, that would be the vogue within six months. He then took shears and amputated the tails of the coat he was wearing and appeared in it on the street. Being a leader of fashion, the idiosyncrasy spread within a week and in a few months reached America.

=Spent tan=—roughly ground tanbark from which the tannic acid has been extracted by infusion.

=Spick-and-span=—new, fresh, clean, tidy; showing off one’s glad rags.

=Spiff=—clerk’s slang for premium or bonus.

=Spinage=—long whiskers.

=Spindle=—(1) a slender rod in a spinning wheel carrying thread which is to be twisted and wound on bobbins; (2) a rod used in hand spinning on which is wound the thread from the distaff.

=Spinning=—the process of drawing out and spinning textil fibers into thread, either by hand or machinery; a process in woolen manufacture by which the drawn fleece or yarn is twisted into yarns or threads of required thickness, technically known as “counts”, according to the fabrics for which intended. As spun, the yarn is wound onto large bobbins for warp or on to smaller spools for weft. Practically the same for other fibers. See Encyclopedia.

=Spinning jenny=—see Jenny.

=Spinning mule=—see Mule.

=Spitalfields=—a district of London, England, noted specially for its silk weaving industries; the name is also applied to silk goods therefrom, as a mark of quality.

=Spladder dashers=—one of the old forms of “spatterdash” (qv).

=Splay-footed=—toes turning outwardly.

=Spliced=—generally, a makeshift extension. See Crotch piece, Wheel piece, etc.

=Spliced heel=—trade term for hosiery with the heel made much heavier than the body of the stocking, usually spoken as s. heels-and-toes. See Double sole.

=Split falls=—same as Narrow f.

=Split foot=—trade term for stockings whereof the underfoot part is knitted separately from the upper or leg part, altho these may be seamlessly joined with practically the same motion or reciprocal interchange of loops, or otherwise. See English f.

=Split patterns= (=to=)—tailoring term for the operation of first drafting a pattern according to the subject’s actual measurements, then splitting it open from top to bottom, and inserting an allowance for a superfluous amount of goods for ease and style, a new pattern being usually drafted from the split one.

=Split straw=—(1) hat s. split into narrow strips; (2) hats of such straw (usually “yacht” shapes).

=Split tree=—a shoe t. divided longitudinally and expanding when placed in position.

=Splits=—weaving term for cloths woven with a center selvaged motion, so that when the piece is taken from the loom the wide fabric can be split into two or more practically perfect cloths; in weaving designated one s., two s., etc.

=Sponge=—general term for (1) the process of extra-shrinking fabrics preparatory to manufacturing into garments; see Shrink; (2) the act of lightly cleaning a slightly soiled garment with a damp sponge before pressing it.

=Sponge=—a fibrous and porous substance from the sea-depths, the framework of a marine animal.

=Sponge bag=—a light rubber or waterproof fabric b. for use of travelers, designed to hold bathing sponges.

=Sponge silk=—a soft, porous, knitted fabric of low grade spun silk, used for underwear, draperies, polishing cloths, etc.

=Sponging=—see Sponge.

=Spongy=—trade term for cloths, such as raincoatings, which have lost their firmness and finish and have become open, soft or porous; also applied to cloths imperfectly fulled or finisht.

=Sporran=—a leather or fur purse or pouch worn in front of the kilt by Highlanders in clan dress.

=Sporting tailor=—one who makes a specialty of, and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of hunting, golf, polo, motoring garments and clothes for “sporting” wear generally.

=Sportsman’s knife=—a pocket k. having numerous conveniences in the way of blades, etc., especially a k. with an extra long blade for skinning hides, etc.

=Spot delivery=—immediately.

=Spread front folder=—a folded shirt collar, the ends of which are broadly rounded or cut away.

=Spring=—a belled or flaring effect.

=Spring bottom trousers=—same as ordinary t. except that the bottoms flare out over the foot.

=Spring buckle=—a buckling device consisting of two pronged buckles connected by coiled wire springs, used on some trousers, overalls, suspenders, etc.

=Spring button=—a “snap” or “clasp” fastening.

=Spring heels=—term for shoes made without h. and worn by boys and children, the outer sole being sprung outward slightly at the heel and a small wedge of leather inserted between the outer sole and the innersole at the heel of the shoe before it is finally attacht by nailing.

=Spring mink=—m. caught in the spring, when the fur begins to change—naturally of quality inferior to winter-caught m.

=Spring needle=—term given to underwear knitted on round frames by means of a peculiar kind of n. so that the fabric is particularly elastic or springy.

=Spring tree=—see Extension t.

=Spring weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 15 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 22 ounces are so called. Compare Winter w., Summer w., Fall w., Tropical w.

=Sprinting pants=—see Athletic p.

=Sprinting shoes=—see Running s.

=Spruce=—kind o’ nice; dapper.

=Spun silk=—trade term for (1) floss, damaged cocoons, husks, waste, etc.; (2) s. yarns, fabrics, etc., from waste s. and damaged cocoons.

=Spun silver=—s. thread for weaving, especially a fiber thread covered with a s. filament.

=Spunk seed=—see Wig.

=Spur=—a heel-thing worn by men-brutes to jab into horses.

=Spy glass=—a small telescope for ship or field use.

=Squam hat=—a round h. of oiled waterproof material, made with a stiff crown and stiff rim, with ear tabs buttoning under the chin, worn by fishermen, seamen, etc. Compare Cape Ann h.

=Square=—see Tailor’s s.

=Square shouldered=—shoulders high and set well back.

=Square-toe=—a shoe made somewhat square at the t. as compared with a round or oval shape.

=Square-toes=—an old-fashioned, punctilious person.

=Squaring=—in hat making, the act of coating or saturating the inside of the crown with a solution of shellac for the purpose of hardening.

=Squash hat=—a low crowned soft felt h.

=Squirrel=—a small tree-living animal, the fur of which is highly prized for winter garments.

=Squirt=—dude.

=Stable cap=—a round c. with a visor, usually of material to match the groom’s suit, as whipcord, corduroy.

=Stable suit=—groom’s sack s. of whipcord. See Livery undress.

=Stall=—see Finger cot.

=Stamin=—a variety of linsey woolsey (obsolete).

=Stampt gloves=—die cut. Compare Table cut. (=Stamped-g.=)

=Stand-and-fall collar=—same as standing Prussian c.

=Stand-up=—same thing.

=Stander=—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.

=Standing band=—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See Falling b.

=Standing Prussian collar=—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over; also called Russian c.

=Stanley helmet=—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing a circulation of air.

=Staple=—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton, etc.

=Staples=—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales. Compare Fancies and Novelties.

=Start-up=—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.

=Station coat=—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear, made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is unlined.

=Stay tape=—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for reinforcing edges, seams, etc.

=Stays=—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the foot.

=Stays=—corsets.

=Steam=—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.

=Steam shrunk=—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).

=Steamer rug=—see Rug.

=Steamer trunk=—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom berth.

=Steinkirk=—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.

=Stem-winder=—a keyless watch.

=Step=—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or waistcoat collar.

=Step-back=—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches or more wide.

=Stephanotis=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of the jasmin family.

=Sterling=—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.

=Sticharion=—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the similar garment worn by deacons.

=Stick-pin=—same as Scarf p.

=Stick-up collar=—British for a standing shirt c.

=Stick-up-turned down=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt collar.

=Sticking plaster=—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists and other sports.

=Stiff front=—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.

=Stiffening=—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.

=Stiletto beard=—a long, sharp imperial (qv).

=Stint rule=—see Task system.

=Stirrup hose=—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or girdle.

=Stitches=—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s., back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s., chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s., running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.

=Stoat=—see Stoating.

=Stoating=—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is barely visible.

=Stock=—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk, wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring attacht to keep it in place when worn.

=Stock=—the merchandise in store for sale.

=Stock boy=—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other houses one with similar duties and proclivities.

=Stock covers=—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to be thrown over the stock at night.

=Stock number=—see Lot n.

=Stock-room=—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.

=Stock whip=—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash with snapper.

=Stockinet=—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually white, from which livery breeches are made.

=Stocking=—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg, close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk, especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or half hose.

=Stocking frame=—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting machine.

=Stocking saver=—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear inside of shoes.

=Stocking yarn=—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods, mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.

=Stockinger=—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)

=Stockingless=—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon. “Sockless” Jerry Simpson?

=Stogy=—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)

=Stogy=—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.

=Stole=—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc. At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.

=Stone marten=—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.

=Stonine=—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.

=Stoop shouldered=—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.

=Store=—a place where you buy things.

=Store clothes=—readymade; not homemade.

=Storm boot=—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of stout leather, commonly waterprooft.

=Storm coat=—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.

=Storm collar=—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats; (2) a deep ulster c.

=Storm hat=—a sou’wester.

=Storm hood=—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.

=Storm-proof=—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes; of rainproof overcoatings, etc.

=Storm serge=—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.

=Storm tabs=—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.

=Stormer=—an ulster (qv).

=Stote=—see Stoat.

=Stouts=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.

=Stove-pipe=—a silk hat.

=Straight=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

=Straight box=—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and full backs without center seams.

=Straight collar=—trade term for coat collars made with a straight under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck closely and neatly.

=Straight front sack=—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom corners, but hanging straight down.

=Straight front single-breasted frock=—same as s. b. frock, and s. b. “Prince Albert.”

=Straight jacket=—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane asylums.

=Straight lace=—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals, distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.

=Straight stander=—a plain, standing shirt collar.

=Straightening=—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the edges of coats after being underprest.

=Strand=—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.

=Strap=—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline seam therewith.

=Strap ends=—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the boot (or shoe).

=Strap measure=—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part is joined.

=Strap seam=—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.

=Strapt trousers=—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing beneath arch of shoe. (=Strapped.=)

=Straw=—cattle feed used in making summer hats.