Part 27

=Undress=—(=navy=) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions. Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers, except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.: same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers, blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover). For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only).

=Undress A=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty, when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony. Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed), shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same, without shoulder straps.

=Undress B=—(=navy=) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers; at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)

=Undress belt=—(=navy=) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather, with mountings as per regulation.

=Undress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for officers, same as full dress b.

=Undress cap=—(=marine corps=) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½ in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown, 1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men, except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.

=Undress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c. of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.

=Undress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close, the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices, etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck, single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar, shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.

=Undress jumper=—(=navy=) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as prescribed for dress.

=Undress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.

=Undress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain seams.

=Undress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.

=Undress uniform=—(=marine corps=) by officers: to be habitually worn on duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or appearing before courts or boards, and when calling upon officials of our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band: likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes; when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field, white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat (blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u. belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, accouterments as ordered.

=Undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material, without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the same, but with plain black or white buttons.

=Undrest kid=—see Suede. (=Undressed.=)

=Unfinisht=—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and have a slight nap or roughness. (=Unfinished.=)

=Unfinisht serge=—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u. worsted.

=Unfinisht worsted=—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.

=Uniform=—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare Livery.

=Uniform A=—(=army=) full dress; (=navy=) special full dress; (=marine corps=) special full dress; worn whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of both services are required to appear together in uniform, at the White House, etc.

=Uniform B=—(=army=) dress; (=navy=) service dress; (=marine corps=) undress; worn as stated above in Uniform A and as otherwise prescribed.

=Uniform buttons=—all metal or other b. for police, fire, military, conductors, society or other uniforms, stamped with insignia, monograms, etc.

=Uniform bag=—a b. of canvas, leather, or both, for carrying baseball or other uniforms; usually constructed on the roll-up pattern.

=Uniform C=—(=army=) full dress or evening u.; (=navy=) evening dress A; (=marine corps=) special full dress; worn as prescribed on occasions as stated above in Uniform A.

=Uniform C=—(=navy=) the same as evening dress A but with white waistcoat in place of blue; prescribed at discretion of senior officer.

=Uniform cloth=—(1) a stout, well fulled, woolen c., similar to kersey, commonly dyed in navy blue and shades of gray, etc., used for police, mail and railroad u.; (2) any c. suitable for uniforms.

=Uniform roll=—a blanket-like sort of carry-all of waterproof canvas, with pockets, straps and handle, largely used by army, marine corps, baseball players, etc.

=Uniform tailor=—one who makes a specialty and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of army, navy, band, police, fire and other uniforms and livery.

=Union cassimere=—a men’s wear fabric woven with a cotton warp and a woolen or shoddy weft, of a quality with satinet (qv) but with a woven instead of a printed pattern. See Cassimere.

=Union goods=—trade term for fabrics woven of different yarns. See U. cassimere, U. linen, etc.

=Union label=—neither a little thing to look for nor a great thing to find.

=Union labor=—unobjectionable if “kept in its place”, but nevertheless the only means of bringing many an arrogant, arbitrary, slave-driving employer to his senses.

=Union linen=—a fabric of cotton warp and linen weft.

=Union made=—not made by free workmen.

=Union silk=—fabrics of s.-and-linen, s.-and-lisle, s.-and-wool, used largely for umbrellas.

=Union suit=—an undergarment combining in one piece drawers and shirt.

=Union tannage=—a combination of the oak and hemlock bark processes.

=Unmerchantable=—term applied to wool partially washt on the sheep’s back but not sufficiently to be clast as “washt” (qv).

=Unpluckt=—furs with the long, stiff hairs not removed, as natural seal.

=Unpluckt seal=—wool or fur s. with the long guard hairs left in. Same term applies to other furs, as otter, etc.

=Unspottable=—trade term for broadcloths and other fabrics finisht by a waterproofing process so that rain will not leave spots or soil marks.

=Untwisting test=—(cotton vs. linen) cotton threads when untwisted disclose a number of entangled fibers, while in linen yarn treated the same way the fibers are much nearer parallel.

=Unwasht=—same as “in the grease”.

=Up-and-down stitch=—in tailoring, any s. that is pulled thru before the next one is taken. A prick s. or side s. may be an up-and-down s. and the button s. is decidedly one.

=Up-to-date=—the man who has bought this book.

=Upland=—cotton grown in the inland districts of the Southern States.

=Upper=—that part of a shoe covering the foot proper.

=Upper Benjamin=—a livery coat with a series of shoulder capes; usually of waterproof box cloth.

=Upper ten=—rather more exclusiv than “the 400”.

=Uppers= (=to walk on one’s=)—poor; shabby.

=Urinal bag=—a long, light, rubber b. with straps for attaching to leg and waist; worn by persons afflicted with bladder weakness.

=Usher=—polite name for floorwalker.

=Utica=—a popular brand of shirting muslin.

V

=V=—in tailoring, etc., a triangular dart cut into some part of a garment, as at the waist, for the purpose of giving shape.

=V neck=—term applied to sweaters having no collar or n., but instead a slit or V-shape opening in front. Compare Turtle n.

=Vaccination shield=—a metal or papier mache s. attacht by straps, worn over the point of v. and beneath the underclothing; a device intended to prevent the wasteful and expletiv saying of “ouch”!

=Valencia=—a stout, striped or figured vesting material, of silk or cotton warp with worsted weft, chiefly used for livery waistcoats.

=Valentian=—see Valencia.

=Valet=—the gentleman who reads master’s letters, wears his clothes and at times helps him dress.

=Valet’s brush=—a long, narrow, straightback b. with graduated bristles.

=Valet’s livery=—none at all; the valet dresses quietly like most people.

=Valeting companies=—institutions that “take care” of your wardrobe for a monthly consideration.

=Vamp=—the forepart of shoe-uppers. See Quarters.

=Vampay=—a short woolen hose or stocking reaching only to the ankles, probably the forerunner of our modern footless bicycle stocking.

=Vamping=—the process of stitching a vamp or upper to a top.

=Vandyke=—a short, close-trimmed, sharp-pointed beard.

=Vandyke flap=—in tailoring a doubly roached f.; having an edge of two concave curves, joined, resulting in points at the ends and in the center.

=Vanity=—pride: shallow, conceited and obtrusiv.

=Varnish=—shoe polish.

=’Varsity=—general term for clothes made with some eccentricity favored by college boys.

=Veal calf=—a variety of shoe leather: a skin coming from a large-sized or partly grown calf, or from a younger animal than a skin called Runner (qv).

=Vegetable flannel=—a coarse, heavy fabric woven of the “wool” obtained from pine needles. See Pine wool.

=Vegetable haircloth=—see Imitation h.

=Vegetable ivory=—the fruit or nuts of a tropical palm (phytelephas macrocarpa) found principally upon the banks of the Esmeralda river in South America. While growing the nuts are soft and creamy but soon harden, acquiring a texture not unlike animal ivory and are used, almost entirely, for making buttons. See I. nut.

=Vegetable wool=—a peculiar variety of cotton grown in Peru, rough, crinkly, strong and closely resembling animal w.

=Veldt coat=—similar to the Norfolk or shooting jacket; made very easy in fit, permitting exceptional liberty of action in hunting, golf, etc., usually worn without waistcoat.

=Vellum=—in military parlance a v. is a measurement of width of gold braid.

=Velour=—(1) a soft napt, close-bodied woolen cloth for men’s wear; (2) any fabric of or resembling velvet.

=Velour=—a velvet or silk pad for smoothing a silk hat. See Leur.

=Velour=—a coined or trade name used to designate a peculiar high glaze or finish given to certain kinds of upper leathers.

=Velutine=—a kind of corded merino.

=Velvet=—a silk fabric with a closely woven back and on the face side a thick, short, smooth nap or cut pile; usually woven double and split apart by knives; made with both silk and cotton backs and so denominated. In its various forms and qualities used for coat collars, waistcoats, livery, smoking jackets, etc.

=Velvet collar=—a c. made of v. instead of same goods as body of garment; practically confined to overcoats. See also Inlaid c. and Laid-on c.

=Velvet finish=—a form of f. given to overcoatings and similar cloths having a heavy nap—in some of which it is left curly, while on others it is left standing out. Compare Bareface f., Scotch f., Dress faced.

=Velveteen=—a silk and cotton or all-cotton velvet.

=Venetian=—a stout, closely woven, fine worsted cloth having a roundish, upright twill, commonly dyed in plain colors, moderately fulled, milled and cropt bare in finishing and given a high luster.

=Venetian=—a twilled lining material of cotton warp and worsted weft, also known as Italian cloth. Compare Farmer’s satin.

=Venetians=—a sort of knee breeches, reaching to just below the knee, said to have originated in Venice; same as galligaskins.

=Vent=—in tailoring (1) an opening; usually the lower parts of seams, for varying distances, according to style or taste, not closed but left open and lapt over or finisht to meet; (2) an outlet (qv).

=Ventilated shoe=—a s. having a more or less ornamental series of perforations or cut-out designs in the uppers, in appearance resembling a compromise between shoe and sandal.

=Verger’s gown=—a plain g. of black stuff, with velvet collar, and with short, open-slasht sleeves.

=Vertical pocket=—a slasht or welted perpendicular p., opening thru the lining or not. See Raincoat p.

=Vest=—see Waistcoat.

=Vest corner stiffener=—a device made of flexible copper wire, designed to be inserted between the material at the cutaway or lower corners of a waistcoat, with the intention of keeping the same from curling up. Not needed with a well-made waistcoat—and perhaps not likely to spoil a cheap one.

=Vest maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes waistcoats his specialty.

=Vest sweater=—a sleeveless, collarless s., open in front and closed with buttons.

=Vestee=—see Vestlet.

=Vestlet=—a shaped strip of white linen or other material pinned or otherwise fastened around the neck of a waistcoat, inside, so that a mere edging of white will show.

=Vestment=—loosely, any ecclesiastical garment.

=Vestwo=—proprietary name for a reversible vest or waistcoat made not with an inner lining, as is usual, but of two different fabrics, so that either side may be worn outward.

=Vici kid=—a trade mark name used to designate a particular method of tanning or finishing goat skins; also the shoe leather as produced.

=Vicuna=—(1) the wool of a South American animal of the camel tribe, distinguisht for exceeding softness and lightness—but because of its scarcity fine merino wool is largely substituted and so called; (2) heavily napt suiting and overcoating cloths of fine, soft, silky texture, usually twill woven, and plain dyed or in Oxford mixtures.

=Viscolized=—a coined trade mark word used to designate a particular oily waterproofing process used for finishing or preserving both sole and upper leathers, used for hunting, fishing and tramping boots. See Stuft leather.

=Viscolized calf=—see foregoing.

=Visor=—see Vizor.

=Viyella=—proprietary name for a sort of fine flannel.

=Visiting case=—(1) a variety of suit c.; (2) one of many names for suit cases.

=Vizor=—(1) a projecting piece on a cap, forming a shield for the eyes; (2) the frontpiece of a helmet with openings for seeing and breathing; (3) a mask.

=Vladimir=—a velour-finisht cassimere, made of fine Australian wool, giving a peculiar soft “handle”.

=Vulgar=—not in good taste, as loud colors, readymade scarves, collar springs, dissonant shoe laces, redundant jewelry, inappropriate articles of attire at dress functions.

=Vulgarian=—sartorially, a horrible example, and the chief patron of the cheap tailor and flash readymader; if of the new rich, a shining mark for the gaudy “swell” haberdasher and conscienceless tailor.

W

=Wadding=—the tailor’s expedient for making a lanky, gawky customer look well in the eyes of his best girl and fellow creatures; specifically thin sheets or layers of carded cotton or batting, usually of a dull slate color, the outsides of which are glazed for strength (such as it is). Compare Padding.

=Waders=—rubber hunting boots reaching to the thighs or waist.

=Wading boots=—see Waders.

=Wading pants=—rubber coverings for the legs and lower part of the body, made with rubber stocking feet or with boot soles.

=Wading shoe=—a leather or leather-and-canvas laced s., opening down to the toe, with a sewed on sole studded with hobnails.

=Wading stocking=—long hose of rubber, with soft rubber feet, attacht by a strap to the waist belt.

=Wadmoll=—a very coarse, felted woolen stuff (obsolete).

=Waist=—that part of the body between the chest and the hips lying beneath the ribs or thorax and above the haunchbones; the narrow part of the trunk. The “fashionable waist” of tailors is sometimes above and sometimes below the natural w.

=Waist=—see Shirt-w.; also Under-w.

=Waist-band=—(1) the upper part of trousers and drawers; (2) a sash.

=Waistcloth=—a strip of cotton or linen c. worn around the waist and hanging below it or passed between the thighs, worn by the unregenerate heathen.

=Waistcoat=—a short, sleeveless body garment worn between the coat and the shirt, the foreparts of which are made of cloth to match the suit or of fancy material, the backs being of a silk or mohair or cotton lining material on the outside, with a thinner fancy or plain silk or cotton lining on the inside; usually 4 welted pockets outside and one in the inside lining; vulgarly a “vest”.

=Waistcoating=—the proper name, but see Vesting.

=Waisted=—shaped with or having a waist.

=Waiter’s jacket=—a sort of tuxedo coat, cut off short at the waist, similar to a military mess j.

=Waiter’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress l.

=Waiter’s shoes=—easy s. of soft leather, with light turned soles and low heels.

=Wald wolle=—forest wool (qv).

=Wale=—a ridge, rib or flattish streak appearing above the groundwork of a woven fabric, usually a result of twilling.

=Walking coat=—resembling a cutaway frock c., but a trifle shorter and usually with pocket flaps on hips, and more frequently made of fancy suitings. Also called English walking c. and morning frock.

=Walking frock=—same.

=Walking gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

=Walking stick=—a cane—supposed to complete a man’s street equipment.

=Wall trunk=—a t. so hinged that the top and back form a straight, vertical line when opened and permit setting close to wall.

=Wallaby=—a sort of small kangaroo; hide used in fancy “leather goods”.

=Wallet=—a leather pocketbook for carrying bank notes lengthwise, also other incunabulae such as bills, billet-deux, billets d’amour, etc.

=Wambais=—a name once given to some sort of garment quilted with wool flax or tow.

=Wammus=—a sort of heavy, loose knitted, cardigan jacket, usually belted; a mosey; also spelt wamus and warmus.

=Wampen system=—an “anthropometrical system” which, like all other tailoring systems, is of alleged perfection; invented by a German scientist of that name.

=Wampum=—Indian bead work used variously for necklaces, bracelets, belts, etc., and among the early colonists as money.

=Wamsutta=—a brand of heavy muslin extensivly used for shirts.

=Wangan=—hunters’ term for clothing, cooking utensils, articles of personal comfort and other incommodia taken on a camping-out hunting trip.

=Wangan bag=—a waterproof canvas b., about the size of a meal b., for transporting hunters’ suplies (see Wangan) from camp to camp.

=War paint=—(1) an Indian’s gala decoration; (2) cant for one’s best clothes when donned for purposes of conquest.

=Wardrobe=—(1) one’s collection of garments; (2) a clothes-closet.

=Wardrobe trunk=—a t., variously constructed, but usually intended to stand apparently on end, opening up so that garments are properly held on hangers and kept in place with straps to prevent bunching; also often with a series of drawers or partitions for smaller articles of apparel.

=Warmus=—see Wammus.

=Warp=—the threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed by the filling or weft; sometimes called chain or end.