Part 8

=Dinner jacket=—an informal dress coat without tails, somewhat like a sack coat, for dinner wear, men’s evening parties, but not where ladies are present, as at balls, operas, etc. Also called Cowes coat and Tuxedo coat.

=Dip=—in tailoring, a downward inclination of the waist line of a frock coat or the bottom line of a sack coat.

=Dip-front=—see Dip.

=Diplomatic uniform=—the court dress of American ministers abroad, while officially “the ordinary dress of an American citizen” is, by official approval, a plain dress coat and waistcoat, knee breeches, black silk stockings and low shoes. This simplicity of attire, contrasted with oriental sumptuousness and European splendor makes our ambassadors and ministers peculiarly conspicuous.

=Dirk=—(1) a Scotch dagger generally without chape or guard; (2) a midshipman’s side arm, either straight or curved. (British navy.)

=Dirk knife=—a clasp k. with a large dirk shaped blade.

=Discharge printing=—a method of producing patterns in textil fabrics by dyeing in the piece of a solid color and printing the designs with a bleaching agent. Compare Batik, Extracted, Resist dyeing, Tied-and-dried, etc.

=Discount=—a rebate for prompt pay, or for imperfections, or out of courtesy (as to clergymen), or delusivly as in most advertisements.

=Display=—(1) merchandise appropriately arranged for public view; (2) personal ostentation.

=Distaff=—a rod or staff for holding a quantity of wool or flax in hand spinning; usually held under the left arm.

=Distingue=—very smart; elegant.

=Dittis=—a fabric formerly made in Manchester, used for (and whence the name of) Ditty bags (qv).

=Ditty bag=—(nautical) a small bag to hold sewing gear, shaving tackle, etc.; a sailor’s “housewife”.

=Ditty box=—a small box for holding a sailor’s thread, needles, brushes, combs, etc.

=Diver’s helmet=—see Diving dress.

=Diving dress=—a waterproof, air-tight garment, like a combined blouse and trousers, with helmet, the whole hermetically sealed, heavily weighted, and supplied thru pipes with air for the wearer to breathe.

=Diving suit=—see D. dress.

=Division list=—a proportionate scale of selling prices, used in the clothing trade, showing the relativ prices of suits, coats, trousers, vests and combinations thereof.

=Division square=—a tailor’s s. marked with the various fractional computations commonly required in sub-dividing the taken measures when drafting.

=Dobbie=—that part of a loom that raises and lowers the harness frames. Also called Witch. (=Dobby=).

=Doctor’s cap=—(scholastic) usually of black velvet, with gold tassel. See Mortarboard c.

=Doctor’s gown=—(scholastic) a loose flowing g., usually of silk, with round, open sleeves barred with black velvet and faced down front with same; or the velvet may correspond in color with the binding or edging of hood.

=Doctored=—(1) manipulated; (2) adulterated.

=Doeskin=—a high grade woolen suiting, and trousering material, close woven, fine twilled, fulled to a very considerable degree and finisht as required, usually (1) dry, (2) doeskin, (3) melton or (4) worsted, being respectivly (1) sheared of all nap, baring the weave, (2) smooth nap, weave nearly concealed, (3) a close standing nap, (4) smooth, hard and glossy; there are also other finishes.

=Doeskin=—a fine quality of jean (qv) closely twilled and with a wool filling.

=Doeskin finish=—see Doeskin and Dress faced.

=Dog=—vernacular for affected or redundant finery or style; to put on airs; vulgar ostentation.

=Dog-rabbitting=—see Piecing-out.

=Dogskin=—a stout, dry, inelastic glove leather made from kyudles or sheep in imitation of it.

=Dolman=—a sort of cape or cloak with wide open sleeves; also the uniform jacket of a hussar, worn like a cape, with the sleeves hanging loose.

=Dom Pedro=—a heavy leather brogan.

=Domestic=—made here; not imported—for which thanks often should be given.

=Domestic finish=—laundry term for linen finisht without gloss and with but little bluing.

=Domestics=—cotton goods of American manufacture as distinguisht from imported goods. Always used in the plural.

=Domet=—a loosely woven, napt, all-cotton, flannel, originally woven with a woolen weft; largely used for neglige shirts, night robes, children’s wear, etc. See Outing cloth.

=Domino=—(1) a mask or half mask worn at masquerades; (2) an adjustable robe or hood worn at masquerades; (3) a loose flowing hooded garment of ecclesiastical wear.

=Donegal tweed=—strictly that hand-scoured, homespun tweed made wholly in the county of Donegal, Ireland, on the hand looms of the peasantry; more loosely tweeds made of Yorkshire yarns woven, dyed and finisht in Donegal; falsely, any fabric in imitation thereof.

=Doorman’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress 1.

=Dornex=—a heavy 17th century coarse linen, used for servants’ clothing.

=D’Orsay=—trade term for a certain well-rounded effect in the curl of a hat brim. Compare Pencil curl and Anglesea.

=Double-and-twist=—(1) trade term for weaving yarns doubled and twisted in combinations of two or more colors; (2) fabrics woven from such yarns—Bannockburns and Drummond worsteds, being examples.

=Double-breasted=—loosely, any coat, waistcoat, undershirt or other garment having a double thickness in the front with a double row of buttons and buttonholes or other means of fastening.

=Double-breasted cutaway=—a variation of the single-breasted frock, known about 1840, and but infrequently seen since, despite attempts to revive it. See Cutaway frock coat.

=Double-breasted reefer=—same as D.-b. sack coat.

=Double-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.

=Double cloth=—general term for any fabric composed of two single textures woven and joined at one operation, the conjunction being effected by interlacing part of the warp threads of one texture with those of the opposit texture, as (1) a fabric with two warp surfaces and one of weft in the center; (2) a fabric with two weft surfaces and one of warp in the center; (3) a fabric with two distinct series of warps and wefts, each woven separately, but united at regular intervals to each other during the course of weaving. Unless the object is to produce effects not possible with single cloths the doubling is usually for the purpose of giving weight and body without the expense of weaving the face pattern thru and thru. Also called Backt-c., Frenchback, etc.

=Double collar=—a folded c. (qv).

=Double corkscrew=—see Chain-weave serge.

=Double crepe=—a very crisp, crinkly black silk c. (qv) used for deep mournings. Compare Single c.

=Double cuff=—a c. that is folded and turned back on itself or onto the sleeve. Compare Single c., Fold-back c.

=Double dyed=—dyed twice over; thoroly impregnated; said also of mixt goods dyed once in a cotton dye and once in a wool dye, or otherwise, as the case may be.

=Double faced=—fabrics having a pattern on each side.

=Double knit=—knitted with a double stitch, giving a double thickness to the fabric.

=Double milled=—sheared twice.

=Double pick=—two filling threads run together into the same shed of the warp.

=Double pile=—any fabric with pile or heavy nap on two sides, as double plush, double-faced canton flannel, etc.

=Double satin de Lyon=—a s. having both surfaces glossy.

=Double sole=—trade term for hosiery made with a s. much heavier than the body of the stocking. See Spliced heel.

=Double soled=—term for shoes made with extra thick soles.

=Double-stitcht=—an edge or seam finish obtained by stitching twice in parallel rows of stated width, as “¼ in. d. s.”. See “Single s.”.

=Double-stitcht seam=—same as cord s. (qv) but stitcht twice and with a larger underlay or outlet for the second row of stitching. Also called Lap s.

=Double-width=—generally, all fabrics ranging from 48 to 60 in. wide and folded lengthwise before being rolled into bolts; originally goods were “single width” (27 to 36 in.) and many are still so woven, fine trousering and shirtings particularly; strictly, the proper term is “quarter”, as four-quarter (⁴⁄₄) for 36 in.; six-quarter (⁶⁄₄) for 54 in., etc.

=Double work=—knitting term for the use of two threads together instead of one, and for the fancy effects so produced.

=Doublet=—a close-fitting outer body garment with sleeves and sometimes with short skirts and belted at the waist, worn from 15th to 17th centuries, usually with hose.

=Doupe=—gauze weaving.

=Dowdy=—see Slob.

=Dowlas=—originally, a strong, plain woven linen fabric used for working blouses, etc.; latterly, a sort of stout calico.

=Down at the heels=—poverty; destitution; general seediness; needing clothes.

=Downright=—see Wool.

=Drafting cape=—see Measuring c. and Beatty c.

=Drap=—French word for cloth; seldom applied to cotton fabrics.

=Drap d’alma=—a fine, close, flat ribbed twilled fabric of wool or silk and wool, finisht on but one side.

=Drap d’ete=—a fine double warp worsted fabric with fine lengthwise cords or ridges on the face, and a smooth back, used for dress and clerical wear, summer coats, etc.

=Drape=—loosely, any smooth-faced fine cloth for dress wear; crepe (qv).

=Draper=—a dealer in cloths; also a clothier, haberdasher or dry goods merchant.

=Draw string=—a tightening tape or s. working thru a gathered hem, or eyelets.

=Drawer supports=—any device attacht to trousers (or to suspenders) for the purpose of holding up the nether undergarments.

=Drawers=—nether undergarments.

=Drawing=—a process of woolen manufacture by which the combed fleece assumes a yarn or thread-like appearance; roving.

=Drawing stitch=—a method of making an edge-to-edge join or a seam without a lap, a s. being taken up thru one side, then drawn over and down under and up thru the other side, and so on; usually employed joining collars to coats.

=Drawn in=—see Hold in.

=Dreadnought=—see Fearnought.

=Drech=—trash; trashy. (German.)

=Dress=—general term for garments and articles of apparel and the science and manner of wearing them; more particularly one’s outer attire.

=Dress=—tailor’s term, indicating the manner in which a man disposes himself in his trousers, necessitating a certain difference in the crotch-fulness of one trousers leg, as “right d.” or “left d.”

=Dress=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn upon the reception of various prescribed officers of the government, governors of states and territories, American ambassadors, ministers, etc.; on visits in part to commanding officers; on Sunday morning inspections. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—frock coat, undress trousers, (white may be prescribed) cockt hat, epaulets, sword and undress belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting blue cap for cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets; for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, and for stewards and officers’ cooks; blue dress: blue cloth coat and blue cloth trousers, blue cap, white shirt, white collar and cuffs, black cravat; white dress: white coat, white trousers, white cap, white shirt, white collar, black cravat. For bandsmen; blue dress: full dress coat, blue trousers, helmet, white standing collar, belt, gloves (and for bandmaster, a sword); white dress: same as blue dress but with white trousers. For all other enlisted men; blue dress: blue overshirt, blue cloth trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); white dress: dress jumper, white dress trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (=Revenue cutter service=) worn by officers performing any special duty with enlisted men under arms away from the vessel, and when calling officially upon officers other than commanders of vessels of war or military posts; consists of frock coat, white or blue trousers, cap, shoulder straps, sword and black leather belt over the coat which is worn buttoned.

=Dress belt=—(=army=) see Army b.

=Dress board=—(=navy=) a bulletin b. on which the prescribed dress or uniform of the day to be worn by the crew is described by executiv officer’s orders.

=Dress breeches=—(=army=) for all officers, of same material and with same stripes as d. trousers, cut in the prescribed pattern and fastened from the knee down with dark bone buttons or with lacings. See also Service b.

=Dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, same as Full dress c. (qv) except with certain differences of trimming and insignia. For enlisted men: of dark blue cloth of same style as prescribed for officers, bearing a stripe of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service, with appropriate rating insignia.

=Dress coat=—see Evening dress.

=Dress coat=—(=army=) a sack c. of dark blue cloth or serge. For general officers: double-breasted with high rolling collar and 2 rows of gilt buttons groupt according to rank, 3 buttons on cuff; skirt to extend one-third of distance to knee, with 4 inch slit at hip for saber; all pockets inside. For all other officers: single-breasted with standing collar, c. closing with flap containing concealed fastenings, c. cut form fitting with saber slit and side vents and trimmed around bottom, front edges, collar and vents with 1¼ in. flat black mohair braid; shoulder and collar ornaments per regulations. For enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut with a straight front, fastened with 6 buttons down the front; standing collar; shoulder loops of same goods let in at shoulder seam and fastened to collar with small button; 3 buttons on cuffs; collar, shoulder loops and cuffs piped with cord-edge braid of the color of corps, department or arm of service.

=Dress derby=—a d.-shaped hat, covered with gros-grain or other plain silk; for wear with dinner jacket. Also called Tuxedo hat.

=Dress faced=—a term sometimes given to woolen cloths, such as doeskin, broadcloth, beaver, etc., having a slight nap. Compare Bareface finish, Scotch finish, Velvet finish.

=Dress frock coat=—(=Revenue cutter service=) same as Full dress f. c., but worn without epaulets.

=Dress gloves=—(1) generally, g. of fine kid; (2) specifically, g. of white kid or fabric for evening dress.

=Dress jumper—(navy)= worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of bleacht cotton drill, of pattern similar to the blue overshirt (see naval overshirt) except that the body hangs straight and loose to 2 to 3 inches below the hips; trimmings same as for blue overshirt (but all of white), the collar and cuffs being of dark blue flannel.

=Dress refines=—see Refine cloth.

=Dress reform=—an ever-recurring evanescent dream.

=Dress reformer=—a human by-product of civilization subject to cerebral coruscations, occasionally menacing to the peace of his fellow men.

=Dress shield=—a light rubber or other perspiration-proof device sometimes used in the armholes of coats.

=Dress shirt=—a (loose) trade term for a white or colored s. with a full set-in stiff bosom. Compare Evening d. s.

=Dress shirt protector=—see Shirt p.

=Dress suit=—see Evening dress.

=Dress suit case=—see Suit c.

=Dress tie=—a folded strip of white linen, lawn or dimity to be tied in a bow, worn only with full evening dress.

=Dress trousers=—see Evening dress.

=Dress trousers—(army)= for all general officers, including staff corps and departments but not engineers—of dark blue cloth without stripe, welt or cord; for chief of artillery, of light blue cloth with 1½ in. stripe of scarlet cloth; for all other officers, the same as for full dress. For enlisted men: of sky-blue kersey, of regulation cut.

=Dress uniform—(army)= the prescribed u. worn by officers at reviews, inspections, parades and other ceremonies when the troops are in d. u.; at such other duties under arms as may be prescribed; on courtsmartial, courts of inquiry, and boards of officers when prescribed; also authorized as a mess dress, and for social occasions when full dress is not worn. For all officers, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes; under arms add dress belt (worn under coat) saber and white gloves; same, mounted: dress coat, dress breeches, dress cap, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs; under arms, add dress belt (under the coat) and saber; for chaplains, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, black shoes, white gloves (when occasions require gloves); same, mounted: dress coat and breeches, chaplain’s hat, black boots, spurs; for enlisted men: worn when prescribed by commanding officer; dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes and, when under arms, white gloves, russet leather belt, and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat, service breeches, dress cap, russet leather shoes, leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves and, if under arms, saber belt and cartridge box.

=Dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.

=Dress worsted=—general term for fine grades of unfinisht and face-finisht worsteds, used for dress wear. See Unfinisht worsted. Whipcord, etc.

=Dressed leather=—any l. that has been curried or stuft with oils to increase its flexibility, its resistance to water, etc.

=Dressing=—(1) a process in weaving by which every thread of the warp is uniformly set in its proper position in the loom; (2) last process in shoemaking consisting of final applications of dressing or polish, the treatment of dull or bright spots, stains, etc.

=Dressing bag=—a fashion-writer’s affectation. See Suit case, Kit b., Traveling b., etc.

=Dressing gown=—a loose g. or robe worn while dressing or in undress.

=Dressy=—fond of dress; supposedly elegant or stylish.

=Drill=—trade abbreviation for drilling (qv).

=Drilling=—general term for stout twilled cotton and linen fabrics used for pockets, interlinings, summer trousers, etc.

=Driving coat=—(1) a c. designed for protection or style when driving; (2) a duster (qv).

=Driving gloves=—g. with re-enforced palms and under-fingers, often with gauntlet tops.

=Driving hood=—a knitted covering for the head that may be worn variously, as a h. over a cap or without a cap, or as a throat muffler, etc., according to adjustment.

=Driving rug=—a carriage robe.

=Drop stitch=—knitting term for a skipt or slipt s., done to effect a lacy or other pattern.

=Drum-major’s shako—(marine corps)= see Full dress cap.

=Drummer=—usually the whole band, judging by his noise.

=Drummond worsted=—in general, any plain Oxford w., twill woven, one warp of black and one of one or two shades of gray (or white), both twisted, and then alternated, the filling yarn being of the same colorings and arrangement. Strictly the term belongs to worsteds manufactured by a firm of English weavers of that name and with whom this peculiar plainish effect seems to have originated.

=Dry cleaning=—a naptha or other chemical process; meaning not washed in water.

=Dry finish=—trade term for woolen fabrics (as doeskins) sheared of all nap, baring the weave.

=Drying frame=—any contrivance for drying underwear, hosiery, etc., in shape and without loss of size, the garment being pulled over same and adjusted; some of these frames are made of wood, others of spring wire, etc.

=Dubbing=—a preparation for softening and waterproofing leather.

=Dub=—(1) in weaving, to dress with teazels for raising a nap (see Teazeling); (2) in leather making, the act or process of rubbing in a softening or waterproof mixture or dressing.

=Duck=—a heavy, strong, plain woven linen or cotton fabric similar to, but of lighter weight than, canvas, used for summer clothing, hospital, army and navy uniforms, and as vestings, etc. In weaving, two threads of warp are laid side by side and treated as one.

=Dude=—not worth description.

=Duds=—clothes.

=Duffels=—an old-time heavy woolen cloaking with a thick tufted or knotted nap, originally made in Duffel, Flanders; match cloth.

=Duffle bag=—about the same as Wangan b (qv).

=Dull=—in the shoe trade, a general term indicating a distinction between bright or patent (or enamel leathers) and calf, kid and other mat or dull finisht leathers.

=Dumbbells=—link cuff buttons with rigid bars; name from having originally been made with plain balls at either end, resembling dumbbells.

=Dummy=—a figure on which clothes are displayed; a “form” (qv).

=Dummy box coat=—not a real c.; an unusable c., carried by coachmen for show; an illustration of the economics of snobbery.

=Dummy buttonhole=—not cut thru but stitcht on the surface only, for purposes of ornament.

=Dummy try-on=—a basted-together fictitious “try-on” of linings and interlinings “fitted” to the customer while the actual coat is being made up without t.-o. or fitting; a device of “cheap tailors” to save the expense of try-ons. Compare Bluff try-on.

=Dumps=—skates. See “High dutchers”.

=Dun=—a result of not paying your bills.

=Dunce cap=—a tall, conical paper c. awarded to some luckless scholar in the old days for lack of brilliancy and worn, for the weal of the class, in some prominent corner of the room, or on a seat by the teacher. “Those were happy days”. Also called Fool’s c.

=Dundee=—a twill-finisht thibet, made to imitate unfinisht worsted.

=Dundrearys=—long, flowing side whiskers.

=Dungaree=—in the British navy a fine quality of blue jeans used for sailors’ shirt collars, watch-marks on sleeves, etc.; also in a coarse grade for working clothes; in the American navy a coarse cotton stuff similar to denim; a term commonly used in reference to navy working clothes.

=Dungaree junipers=—(=navy=) a blouse of blue denim, single-breasted sack pattern, buttoned to the neck and loosely fitting; worn by enlisted men on working duty.

=Dungaree trousers=—(=navy=) working t. of blue denim, made with a fly instead of with front falls, worn by enlisted men.

=Dunnage bag=—a large, long b., commonly of canvas, for laundry, etc.

=Dunrobin=—a fine Scotch plaid.

=Durance=—lasting (qv). (Same as below?)

=Durant=—a strong, close-grained woolen stuff of Revolutionary times.

=Dust=—an article kept in stock in large quantities in all mercantil establishments and usually hard to move save by continued exertion.

=Dust coat=—same as Duster.

=Dust shield=—see Wind s.

=Duster=—a light overcoat of linen, mohair or other thin fabric, once extensivly used for traveling or driving.

=Dutch metal=—an alloy from which much of the “gold” lace of commerce is manufactured.

=Duttees=—the coarse brown calicoes of India.

=Duxbak=—proprietary name for a semi-waterproof canvas used for sporting and rough weather clothing.

=Dye bath=—a solution of coloring matter for dyeing purposes.

=Dyebeck=—same as Dye bath.

=Dyeing=—the art and operation of coloring textil fabrics by immersion in a properly prepared bath; dyes are chiefly vegetable or anilin, and a source of anguish if they fade unduly. See an encyclopedia.

=Dyer=—one who dyes fabrics.

=Dyer’s weed=—see Woad.

=Dye-stuff=—any material used for dyeing.

E

=Ear caps=—see E. muffs.

=Ear flaps=—those parts of a cap that may be turned down to cover and protect the ears from cold.

=Ear guards=—padded leather protectors worn by footballers.

=Ear lock=—the lock of hair curling over or near the ear; any lock of hair on the side of the head; a love lock.

=Ear muffs=—pads or m. for wear over the ears in cold weather, usually of velvet, held in place by an elastic cord or metal spring. Popular in St. Louis with the first touch of frost.

=Ear rings=—jewelry worn in the ears, the lobs of which are pierced for the purpose; once upon a time gentlemen wore them; nowadays noticed mostly on foreign laborers.

=Ear tabs=—see E. flaps and E. muffs.

=Ear whiskers=—short tufts of scrub reaching to the depth of the ears.

=Easter=—tailor’s harvest time.

=Eating apron=—a garment for young children, having a bib and sleeves made of one piece; also an a. without sleeves.