Part 9
=Eau de Cologne=—a strongly perfumed toilet water; properly, that for which the city of Cologne is celebrated. In this city the industry was establisht in the beginning of the 17th century by Paul Feminis and Maria Clementine, a nun, jointly possessing the secret and conducting the business; at his death Feminis bequeathed the formula to the Farina family, while the nun left it to Peter Schaeben; both families still carry on the business and are the leading manufacturers.
=Ecru=—raw color, as of silk, linen, etc.; unbleacht.
=Edge baster=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who finishes the work begun by the straighteners, underbasters and edge operators, by turning in the outer part and facing (of a coat) and basting the edges preparatory to final felling and stitching.
=Edge operator=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who does only the first seaming of coat edges.
=Edge setting=—the process of burnishing the edges of shoe soles on a lathe-like machine called an e. setter.
=Edge trimming=—see foregoing.
=Edges=—the e. of coats, waistcoats, etc., are variously denominated, according to manner of making and finish, blind e., bluff e., braided e., bound e., corded e., double-stitcht e., felled e., piped e., plain e., prickt e., raw e., single-stitcht e., etc., which see.
=Effect threads=—weaving term for decorativ threads of different colors added to worsted and woolen fabrics, usually of mercerized cotton or silk, or resist-dyed wool or worsted.
=Effigeen=—an old-time lining fabric.
=Egyptian=—trade term for cotton grown in the Nile districts of Africa; very silky, smooth and strong; more commonly known as Maco.
=Eiderdown=—a thick woolen-pile fabric, woven on a cotton stockinet body.
=Elastic canvas=—a plain-woven fabric of linen or cotton, unbleacht or bleacht, of various weights, used for stiffening garments.
=Elastic gore=—a woven tape-like fabric, made in such a manner with rubber threads that it forms an elastic tape or goring which is inserted in the sides of a shoe immediately over the ankles, made so that the shoe may be stretcht and drawn on and held on the foot by this elastic goring, no lacing being used in this style of shoe which is commonly known as Congress shoe or gaiter.
=Elastic seam=—proprietary term for a make of undergarments of jeans, nainsook, etc., having strips of elastic knitted material let in between seams, or in places of strain, etc.
=Elastic stocking=—a s. of silk and rubber threads for reducing swelling, aiding the muscles, etc.
=Elastic twill=—a fine flexible cloth used for dress wear.
=Elastic webbing=—any garter or suspender w. of silk, cotton or other material having interwoven threads of pure rubber.
=Elasticity test=—to determin the quality and e. of silk thread, take a yard of thread and hold it firmly in each hand on some set table or object, and keeping one hand stationary, start to stretch it. If it breaks off short there is either cotton or other adulterant.
=Elbow sleeves=—term for undershirts with sleeves reaching to the elbows.
=Electric seal=—imitation sealskin, usually muskrat or cat.
=Electric tanning=—treatment by electric current in connection with the astringent liquor, to hasten conversion into leather.
=Elegant=—a French dude.
=Elevator-boy’s suit=—same as Hall-boy’s s.
=Elk skin=—a soft, pliable, oilless leather, usually made of calf s. and tanned by a chemical process; used chiefly for athletic and sporting shoes.
=Ell=—a measure of length as for cloth, having different values in different places, and now rarely used; in England an ell is 45 inches, in Scotland 37 inches.
=Elysian=—a fine grade of overcoating cloth, having the nap laid in diagonal lines or ripples, something like, but rougher than Chinchilla, and with straighter hair.
=Embroidered=—ornamented with fancifully workt designs in stitches.
=Emerald=—a green precious stone anciently considered an enemy of impurity and that would break if it but toucht the skin of an adulterer.
=En regle=—in high ceremonious attire.
=Enameled collar=—a shirt c. made of a material composed of two sheets of white paper between which was a connecting layer of thin muslin showing thru the paper sides, after pressure, with a cloth-like effect; invented in 1857. Since made entirely of paper, the surfaces stampt to imitate cloth.
=Enameled leather=—a heavy kind of upper leather finisht with a shiny surface like patent leather, but in which a figure or pebble has been workt into the surface of the enamel.
=End=—technical term for a thread of warp or weft.
=Ends=—remnants.
=Engagement ring=—something you work hard to save up for so she can “show off” among her friends until she finds someone else to buy her a more gorgeous one, when you may, if lucky, get it back.
=Engineer’s cap=—a flat crowned, nearly straight c., made on a band, with a large visor.
=Engineer’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.
=English foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a seam at either side of the sole. See French f.
=English mourning crepe=—see Crepe.
=English square=—imposing name for a readymade scarf with flaring ends (about 1900).
=English waist=—trade term for trousers made very high in the back.
=English walking coat=—a single-breasted cutaway frock c. with hip pockets, usually made of fabrics less sedate than the formal black goods used for the cutaway frock or morning c. (qv).
=English yarns=—worsted y. that have been well oiled before combing, resulting in a smooth level yarn in which the fibers lie nearly parallel to each other. Compare French y.
=Enlisted men’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u.; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.
=Ensanguined undergarment=—a variant of “bloody shirt”.
=Ensign’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variations.
=Enweave=—to intertwine or intermix by weaving; another form of inweave.
=Epaulet=—an ornamental badge of rank worn by certain officers of army, navy, etc., on the shoulders of the coat, usually a sort of plastron of gold bullion with gold fringe, and bearing insignia of rank. Now largely supplanted by shoulder knots, shoulder straps, etc. (=Epaulette.=)
=Epauls Americaines=—French poking fun (?) at our wadded shoulders. See American shoulders.
=Epigonation=—a lozenge-shaped ornament of stiffened silk bearing a cross or picture, worn hanging from the girdle by the Greek and Russian ministry.
=Epiminikia=—bands resembling the Latin maniple (qv) worn by bishops, priests and deacons in the Greek and Russian churches, those for bishops being richly ornamented.
=Episcopal ring=—a gold r., usually set with a large amethyst, symbolizing that the wearer (a bishop) is wedded to his diocese.
=Epitrachelion=—a long, narrow stole worn by priests of the Greek and Russian churches, resembling the Latin pallium (qv).
=Equi-pede=—a horseman’s coat, ample skirted and long enough to cover the mounted rider (saddle and all) from neck to boots, a coat and apron in one, quickly and easily contracted to the size of a sack covert coat for walking and dismounted work generally.
=Erect=—not stooping.
=Erkens’ worsted=—a fine, close twilled worsted dress or coating cloth resembling Venetian, the twills apparently crossing each other. (From name of German manufacturer.)
=Espardènas=—see Alpargatas.
=Estamene=—similar to serge, but having a rough, nappy face resembling cheviot.
=Etamine=—a light woolen cloth similar to batiste and nun’s cloth.
=Etiquette=—the formalities or usages of social or professional intercourse.
=Etoffe=—French for cloth.
=Eton collar=—a folded shirt c., usually of white linen of medium hight stand, but with a broad turnover of nearly uniform width all around, folded at an angle; worn by boys.
=Eton jacket=—a short j. without collar or lapels, reaching only to the waist line, first worn by the boys of Eton College.
=Etruscan gold=—luster removed by acid, leaving it satiny yellow.
=Eugenie’s wigs=—knitted montero caps (qv) presented by Empress Eugenie to the Arctic exploration of 1875, and so dubbed by the jackies.
=Even exchange=—retail trade term, meaning the exchange of purchases for something else without there being any difference in price.
=Evening dress=—the swallowtail and Tuxedo as opposed to frock coats for day dress and sack coats for business and lounge wear; vulgarly “full dress”.
=Evening dress A=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on occasions of ceremony in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as public balls, dinners and evening receptions. Consists of—for all commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat (blue), full dress trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and full dress belt, black tie, white gloves; for chaplains the same as “Evening Dress B”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets. On occasions where the full uniform would not be appropriate “Evening dress A” may be prescribed without swords and belts and with blue caps instead of cockt hats; or in hot weather, or in appropriate circumstances, mess dress with full dress trousers may be ordered.
=Evening dress B=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at social evening occasions where officers are invited in their official capacity, and at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate by officers for whom the evening dress coat has been prescribed (except when the uniform of the day has been white). Consists of—for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat, blue (unless white is ordered), undress trousers (unless full dress trousers are ordered), blue cap, black tie. In hot weather or under other appropriate circumstances mess dress may be substituted.
=Evening dress coat=—a skirted c. with the foreparts cut off at the waistline, the skirts commencing at the hips and gradually narrowing downward, the front made with long-roll lapels, not to button, tho furnished with buttons and buttonholes on each side, the lapels usually faced with silk; invariably made of fine black cloth and properly lined with black silk.
=Evening dress coat=—(=navy=) a uniform c. similar to a civilian’s e. d. c., of dark blue cloth with 3 large navy buttons on each breast, well spaced, two at the waist behind and one at the bottom of each fold, with sleeve marks and epaulets as prescribed for frock c.; always worn open. For chaplains the same with black silk buttons.
=Evening dress shield=—see Shirt protector.
=Evening dress shirt=—trade term for fine quality white d. s. with extra large bosoms.
=Evening dress trousers=—plain t. of same goods as the coat, but slightly shaped, and sometimes with a stripe of fancy braid down the outside seams; in trousers for wear with the dinner jacket (Tuxedo) the braid is omitted.
=Evening dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, of dark blue cloth, cut after the prevailing style of civilian’s evening dress, but with long snug fitting waist, without pockets or buckle straps, suspender buttons inside the band, outseams trimmed with 1¼ inch stripe of gold lace. Also white t. for wear with white mess jacket, of same cut but without stripe on outseams.
=Evening dress uniform=—(=army=) a special full d. u. authorized for wear on occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as balls, official dinners and receptions, etc.: an evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the civilian dress coat, with regulation gilt buttons, of same number and placed as prescribed, the sleeves ornamented in same manner as full dress uniform coats; an evening waistcoat of dark blue or white with three small regulation buttons; also full dress trousers for all officers except those of engineers, cavalry, artillery and infantry, who wear dark blue trousers without stripes; patent leather shoes and full dress cap; shoulder ornaments, etc., per regulations. For occasions of special formality the u. for evening functions is the same as full dress dismounted u.; and this may be worn at above described occasions at discretion. On proper occasions, which are not official in character, officers are permitted to wear civilian evening dress.
=Evening dress waistcoat=—a w. cut low to expose the shirt bosom, the garment being most properly single-breasted, 3 or 4 buttons and 2 pockets, and the opening either V or U shape, with a shawl collar, which is sometimes trimmed with a row of fancy braid. May be of black cloth to match coat and trousers or of white wash fabrics or silk, which latter may be plain or have a small figured pattern.
=Evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) similar to a civilian’s e. d. w., of dark blue cloth with four small gilt navy buttons (or black silk buttons for chaplains). The “white evening dress” w. to be of same style but of duck or similar material (if for chaplains with white buttons). (=Marine corps=) for all officers; of same material as corresponding mess jacket, single-breasted with four small marine corps buttons, rolling collar.
=Evening jacket=—see Dinner j.
=Everlasting=—a cloth used for breeches during the latter part of the 18th century, mostly for servants’ wear.
=Examiner=—in the apparel trades one who closely scrutinizes finisht garments for detection and correction of errors, flaws, etc. His criticism, which is final, sometimes results in further changes.
=Exchange=—to receive back goods bought and give the purchaser something else in the place thereof.
=Expenses=—the one thing that makes the boss sit up nights.
=Exposure test=—generally, exposing a piece of cloth or other material, article or substance, to the weather, continuously for a number of days (usually on a roof or in some place where it is not likely to be meddled with) for determination of color, quality, etc.
=Express paid=—sent, not (?) at the receiver’s expense.
=Exquisite=—an ineffable clothes-wearing nuisance.
=Extension shoulders=—deceptivly broad.
=Extension tree=—a shoe t. having a spring, ratchet or other device for stretching the shoe longitudinally.
=Extra=—a substitute or temporary clerk.
=Extra stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit extra corpulent or very fat persons.
=Extras=—anything or lots of things not contemplated in the price; the “nigger-in-the-woodpile” reason for many low prices.
=Extract wool=—wool produced from waste or clips which are of mixt wool-and-cotton, the wool being extracted by a process of carbonization.
=Extracted=—dyeing term indicating that patterns or designs in colors differing from the general ground color, or in white, have been achieved by (1) acid treatment, (2) bleaching, (3) tying and dyeing, (4) mordanting, etc. See Batik, Bandanna, etc.
=Eye shield=—a silk or papier mache s. worn to protect weak eyes against light; also to hide the effects of “somebody bumping into it the night before.”
=Eyeglasses=—lenses suitably mounted for attachment to the bridge of the nose, differing from spectacles in needing no bows across the temples or behind the ears; pince nez.
=Eyeglass chain=—a safety device of gold or other metal.
=Eyeglass cord=—a light silk c. for attaching eye-glasses to the clothes or person to prevent loss.
=Eyeglass holder=—a case for holding eye-glasses when not in use; of various styles, as hinged, open-end, etc., usually of leather or leather-covered metal.
=Eyelet=—a small hole, workt around with buttonhole stitching.
=Eyeshade=—a sort of visor for protecting the eyes from the glare of strong light.
F
=Face=—the right side or outer surface of a fabric or material.
=Face=—the table or (exposed) upper part of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.
=Face cloth=—a c. laid on the face of a dead person.
=Face cloth=—a wash c.
=Face finish=—meaning, in the textil trades, the manner in which the face or outerside of a fabric is finisht; as clear f., doeskin f., unfinisht, etc., which see.
=Face guard=—a mask or covering worn by workers in chemical laboratories; or by fencers, or baseball players, etc.
=Faced=—having an over or underlying strip of same or different material for purposes of appearance or re-enforcement. See Facing.
=Faced cloth=—fabrics having a finisht face, as worsteds, in opposition to fabrics such as tweeds, cheviots, etc.
=Facet=—one of the small triangular plane surfaces of a diamond or other gem.
=Facing=—tailoring term for an underlying or overlying strip or re-enforcement of material, the same as or different from that of the garment, as (1) the strip along the inside of coat openings which also form the face of the lapels or revers; (2) the strips of goods inside the openings of pockets so that the eyes shall not be offended with lining showing thru; (3) the covering of silk laid on lapels or revers, to the edge or to the buttonholes; (4) the contra-colored cloth, showing on the turned back skirts or revers of old-time military coats; (5) the strip of cloth extending all around the inside edges of a waistcoat from neck to bottom side seam, which is sometimes of undercollar cloth for the sake of a thinner edge; and so forth.
=Faconne=—figured; usually employed in connection with fancy silks.
=Factory cotton=—unbleacht domestic cotton goods in contrast to those which are imported.
=Factory yarn=—coarse, unscoured woolen y., used for knitting hose, mittens, etc.
=Fad=—the current vogue; transient popularity.
=Fad=—a hobby.
=Faga=—a narrow strip or sash of silk wound several times around the waist. (Spain).
=Faille Francaise=—a soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than gros-grain, but narrower than ottoman.
=Fair=—see Cotton classification.
=Fair shake=—a fair bargain.
=Fal lal=—any gaudy or trifling ornament or trinket; foppish frippery.
=Falding=—a kind of frieze, mentioned by Chaucer, approximating the coarse red woolen stuff still worn by Irish peasant women for petticoats and jackets.
=Fall bearer=—that part of broadfall trousers forming the front waist band, and to which the fall or flap is buttoned; the b. also contains the pockets. See Broadfalls. Compare Narrow falls.
=Fall down=—one of the old names for broadfalls (qv).
=Fall weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 12 to 16 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 24 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w.
=Falling band=—(1) a sort of wide turned down collar, usually of linen, plain or ornamented, sometimes with floating ends or tabs; worn over the neck of the doublet or jerkin of old days; (2) an ecclesiastical neckdressing.
=Falling collar=—see Prussian c.
=False face=—what we begged pennies for when young.
=False hair=—someone else’s tho it covers your own bald spots.
=False teeth=—of great utilitarian value but, alack! also signs of immoderate vanity.
=Family umbrella=—facetious term for old-fashioned extra large u.
=Fan=—once fops carried them; nowadays women.
=Fan=—the side of a cockt hat.
=Fancies=—any merchandise not classed as staples or regulars; novelties.
=Fancy back=—general term for fabrics having a pattern on the back or underside differing from that on the face, as certain fancy overcoatings, raincoatings, etc.
=Fancy dress ball=—an occasion where one can spend a good deal of money on a costume that may never be worn again—unless he rents some trumpery from a costumer, which nice folk are squeamish about doing.
=Fang=—a broken or protuberant tooth.
=Farmer’s satin=—properly a satin wove fabric having a cotton warp and worsted filling, finisht with a high luster, used for coat linings, etc.; also called Italian cloth.
=Fashion=—the prevailing mode.
=Fashion artist=—a perverse individual who has trances twice a year or oftener for the benefit of clothing manufacturers and fashion journals.
=Fashion doll=—a device once extensivly used to display fashions in miniature.
=Fashion monger=—one who affects scrupulous attention to fashion; a dandy.
=Fashion-plate=—an engraving or other pictorial representation of the prevailing fashions of any period.
=Fashion writer=—a has-been or going-to-be literary hack who need never be taken seriously.
=Fashionable=—conforming to the prevailing mode; approved.
=Fashionable back width=—tailoring term indicating a change in measurement of the back to correspond fashionably with width of shoulder.
=Fashionable tailor=—one who gets the highest prices and who consequently caters only to the wealthy classes; one to whom every manufacturer of readymade clothing goes for his own clothes and for ideas for his business.
=Fashionable waist=—tailoring term. See Waist.
=Fast color=—applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or thru exposure.
=Fast dye=—fast color; unfading.
=Fat man’s frock=—a cutaway frock coat, only the top button of which is intended for use; also called “one button cutaway”.
=Fat man’s sack=—a sack coat made to be buttoned only at the top button, and cut away slightly from that point downward.
=Fatigue blouse=—(=masonic=) a 5 button, single-breasted, straight front sack coat, without pockets and with Prussian collar. Compare Commander’s coat and Sir Knight’s coat.
=Fatigue coat=—(=army=) for enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of brown cotton duck, of prescribed pattern.
=Fatigue trousers=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of brown cotton duck, without stripes.
=Fatigue uniform=—(=army=) for enlisted men dismounted: worn on fatigue or stable duty: f. coat, and trousers, service hat, russet leather shoes.
=Favors=—more or less costly trivialities distributed at cotillons.
=Fay, to=—to fit. “Your coat fays well”. This obsolete form, a curtailment of “fadge”, and in use during the Augustan age of English literature, is occasionally encountered in New England.
=F. B. Q.=—proprietary name for a well-known make of ready-to-wear clothing, meaning “finest beyond question”.
=Fearnought=—a heavy fulled woolen fabric used for sailors’ overcoats and clothing; sometimes called Dreadnought.
Fearnought—(weaving term). See Mixing picker.
=Feather=—a channel about ⅛ inch deep, extending around the edges of a shoe sole, along and into which holes for the stitches are pierced obliquely.
=Feather top=—see Wig.
=Feathers=—when commingled with tar a punitiv form of clothing worn next the body; occasionally met with in communities of zealously guarded morality.
=Featherweight=—very light or summery.
=Fedora=—a soft felt hat, the crown having a crease in the center from front to back. See Hombourg, Alpine, Tyrolean, etc.
=Feel=—see Handle.
=Fell=—felling is the act of sewing one piece of material onto another; to turn in a seam.
=Fell=—archaic for hides or pelts; also used in the sense of hairy.
=Felled edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv), hand-finisht, with a felling stitch (qv), obtaining a perfectly plain surface.
=Felled pocket=—a jetted p.
=Fellers=—see Finishers.
=Felling, French=—see French f.
=Felling silk=—see Sewing s.
=Felling stitch=—an over-and-over continuous s. used to fasten linings onto the outer body, to hold bindings to the edge, join under-collars to body, etc., the closeness of the stitches being regulated according to the purpose for which they are used.
=Fellmonger=—a trader in skins, furs, etc.
=Fellware=—skins, furs, etc.