Part 29
=Wool=—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to classify it into three grand divisions, to wit: (1) carding or clothing w. (also called “short staple” [2 to 4 inches long]), such as merino, having special felting properties; (2) combing w. (also called “long staple” [4 to 10 inches long]), in which length of staple is first consideration and felting properties are not desired, being appropriate for hardspun worsted yarns; (3) miscellaneous, a grouping of long, strong, coarse w. suitable for blankets, carpets (sometimes known by these and other names), coarse clothing, etc. These, again, are subdivided into the following grades:
XX Combing, or the very finest, 6 inches and above in length. No. 1 Combing, or 2d. finest, 6 inches and above in length. No. 2 Combing, or 3d. finest, 6 inches and above in length. Braid Combing, or coarse hair, 6 inches and above in length. Fine No. 1, medium stapled, 5 to 6 inches in length. Medium or No. 2, 5 to 6 inches in length. Carding No. 1 and Kid, less than 5 inches in length.
Short staple wools are also known as picklock (finest), prime, choice, super, head, seconds, abb and breech or livery; long staple or worsted wools are also classed as fine, blue, neat, brown, breach, downright, seconds, abb. Wools are further graded according to the parts of the body from which sheared, the physical condition of the fleece (as common hair, dead, kemp, crossbreed, ½ blood, ¼ blood, etc.), the country where produced (as Australian, territory, Oregon, Ohio), etc. The manufacturer in turn makes from fifteen to twenty or more sorts, according to the kind of yarn and goods he produces, and each mill has its own standard and nomenclature. Short staple wools are the finest and long staple the coarsest. The value of combing hair increases with every inch of length, other conditions being equal. The scope of this work does not permit an extended treatis (which the subject merits)—so you had better consult some authoritativ book on wools and weaving, or some good encyclopedia.
=Wool backt=—a worsted fabric, of typical worsted face, but with a backing of w., the pattern not going thru; plated. See Thru-and-thru. (=W. backed.=)
=Wool clip=—one season’s c. or shearing of w.
=Wool dyed=—d. in the w. before making into cloth. Compare Ingrain dye.
=Wool extract=—see Extract w.
=Wool felt=—hatter’s term for felts (and hats thereof) made from sheep’s w. The process said to have been discovered by St. Clement, who, while on a pilgrimage, pluckt a handful of w. from a sheep by the wayside and placed it in his sandals; the action of walking and heat from his feet formed the w. into a compact mass.
=Wool-in-the-grease=—(1) uncleaned w.; (2) a clip.
=Wool seal=—a heavier and more hairy pelt than the fur s., used for less expensiv garments. Also the hide of this species of seal furnishes the leather and fur pocketbooks, belts, bags, etc. Compare Fur s.
=Wool shears=—a tool very much like lawn (grass) shears.
=Wool sorter’s disease=—a kind of blood poisoning from infected w., probably anthrax.
=Woolenet=—a light-weight woolen fabric.
=Woolens=—general name for cloths made of carded wool in contradistinction to worsteds (of combed w.); usually soft woven.
=Work-in=—see Hold in.
=Working coat=—(1) a weatherproof sack c., either single or double-breasted, worn in place of both suit-coat and overcoat; usually of leather, canvas, corduroy, etc., (2) a jumper.
=Working dress=—(=navy=) attire prescribed to be worn by details of men or others engaged in work for which it may be necessary. For all but ordinary enlisted men, both blue and white w. d. is the same as blue and white undress, but the w. d. prescribed for “all other enlisted men” may be drawn and worn during work such as requires it; for all other enlisted men: blue w. d., blue w. jumper, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, no neckerchief nor knife lanyard. White w. d.: same as white undress, but old clothes may be worn.
=Working jumper=—(=navy=) same as undress j. (qv), but made of dark blue flannel.
=Working shoe=—any stout s. of coarse leather, usually on the brogan order.
=World-beater=—term of real or assumed enthusiasm employed by some salespeople, advertisement writers, et al., in commendation of really or fictionally exceptional values or merchandising “events”.
=Worumbo=—general term for men’s wear fabrics, especially chinchilla overcoatings, made by the Worumbo Mfg. Co., Lisbon Falls, Me.
=Worsteds=—general name for fabrics constructed of combed wool; usually hard woven and variously finisht.
=Wrap=—a sort of hold-all in which various kinds of luggage may be packt or wrapt.
=Wrap-rascal=—a close-buttoned jocky coat with large metal buttons. See also Joseph.
=Wrapper=—(1) any loose flowing outer garment, as a dressing gown (term now almost entirely confined to women’s wear); (2) an infant’s undershirt of the button-down-the-front variety.
=Wrappers=—leggings.
=Wrapping stitch=—a loose s. binding edges and seams; an overcast s.; a whip s.
=Wrinkle=—a pucker or crease; sign of bad tailoring or careless wear.
=Wrist support=—a leather band with strap to prevent spraining the w., worn by baseball players, draymen, etc.
=Wristband=—(1) specifically, the narrow band that terminates a shirt sleeve; (2) a short or narrow cuff.
=Wristfall=—a falling band or ruff once worn about the wrist.
=Wristler=—a knitted band worn on the wrist for warmth.
=Wristlet=—same as Wristler.
X
=Xylolin=—a new textil material made in Saxony, consisting of narrow strips of light paper and cotton or wool spun and woven into a cream-colored cloth fabric. So cheap that a complete plain suit of men’s clothes may be produced from it for as little as three dollars. It is claimed that this fabric can be washt repeatedly without injury to the surface.
Y
=Yacht cloth=—a light, fine twill woven woolen cloth, finisht with a roughish surface and dyed in plain colors; a sort of heavy flannel.
=Yacht hat=—see Boater.
=Yachting cap=—a style of cloth c. with a full crown and a small peak or visor.
=Yachting shoe=—commonly, a low-cut leather or canvas s. with wedge heels and rubber soles.
=Yankee cap=—a cloth c. having a flat or round crown and a closely sticht brim turned straight up behind and down in front (tho the back may be dropt for storm wear); devised for automobiling.
=Yankee notions=—small labor saving contrivances, toilet or dress adjuncts, etc.; anything you can think of; term more used in England than here.
=Yard-and-a-quarter-stick=—very useful in the clothing and tailoring trades.
=Yard stick=—if full length, 36 inches long.
=Yard-wide=—36 inches, of course.
=Yarn=—thread for knitting or weaving.
=Yarn-dyed=—see Skein dyes.
=Ylang ylang=—“flower of flowers”; a perfume derived from or in imitation of the flowers of a Malayan tree of the custard-apple family.
=Yoke=—a band or cross-piece to which other parts of a garment are attacht.
=Yoke coat=—a coat made with a yoke back or front, or both.
=Yolk=—the fatty or greasy matter contained in wool; also called suint.
Z
=Zanella=—a variety of cotton-warp worsted serge used for coat linings, umbrella coverings, etc.
=Zebra stripes=—one of 1907’s foolishnesses in men’s wear woolens—simply, any stark, staring stripe.
=Zerape=—see Serape.
=Zero collar=—proprietary name for a very deep variety of ulster c.
=Zouave cap=—a sort of fez.
=Zouave jacket=—a short j. or blouse reaching about to the waist, and cut away in front.
=Zouave trousers=—bloomers!
=Zouave uniform=—you’ve just read it!
=Zuchetta=—a small, round, clerical skull cap of silk or velvet, covering the tonsure, and of color suited to the wearer’s rank.
Addenda[1]
Footnote 1:
New definitions, afterthoughts, omissions, and the like.
=Adonisbelt=—proprietary name for a sort of suspensory bandage, so that a man, drest a la Henrydixeyadonis, may have his trousers cut “no dress”.
=Arms=—bearings or devices which a person is (or assumes to be) entitled to emblazon upon his escutcheon; something that, like forbidden fruit, is shamelessly coveted (or manufactured) in democratic America.
=Back scye=—the back part of the scye. See Scye and Front of scye.
=Bagman=—British for traveling salesman.
=Bandoline=—a gummy preparation for plastering or glossing the hair.
=Bar coat=—see Bartender’s c.
=Bartender’s coat=—a short jacket, usually of white duck and buttoned to the neck.
=Belwarp=—a name given to English worsteds of peculiar formation, having some resemblance to chain-weave worsteds.
=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.
=Blunt corners=—not coming to a point but given a short rounding, as lapel edges, wing (shirt) collars, etc.
=Body belt=—same as Waist b.
=Bosom shirt=—a s. with a shield or built-up bosom.
=Bottom-fulness=—tailoring term for amplitude of skirt, as in a frock coat; belled.
=Box sack=—a loose, boxy sack coat, usually double-breasted, with a long roll and wide button-spread.
=Breadth=—width; a “breadth” of goods is its square, “two breadths” twice its width (in length), and so on.
=Busby cord=—a sort of aigulet attacht to a busby cap, worn draped over the shoulder.
=Business cutaway=—same as Walking frock and English walking frock.
=Button-spread=—the distance between buttons horizontally, on a double-breasted coat.
=Buttoned oxford=—a buttoned low shoe. See Oxford tie.
=Cabbage=—tailoring slang meaning the amount of material a “jour” can save of the silk thread, tape, linings, etc., given him for the making of a garment, such savings or surpluses being, by custom, regarded as his perquisites and which he quietly “cabbages” (or keeps), whence name.
=Calves=—pre-requisite to the dignified wearing of knee breeches and the chief reason why artistic dress reform invariably fails.
=Cap cover=—a detachable c. for a cap, protectiv or otherwise.
=Captain-general’s coat=—see Knights Templar uniform.
=Cat-stitch=—a crost s. on edges to prevent raveling. See Serging.
=Chin-scale= (=s=)—a chin strap of linkt metal plates or scales, as with certain military caps.
=Cielette=—a name for one of numerous processes of waterproofing woolens, worsteds, etc.
=Clad=—drest.
=Clerical cloak=—a long cape-like overgarment with collar, but without sleeves, buttoned down the front.
=Coat of arms=—originally, a surcoat charged with heraldic devices; hence, the armorial bearings, collectivly, of any person.
=Collar stand=—see Stand.
=Congress gaiter=—same as C. shoe.
=Crest=—(1) modernly, a plume, pompon, tuft, etc., on a uniform cap or hat; (2) in heraldry, a warrior’s device, usually supported upon a wreath or coronet.
=D’Elia indicator=—see Tailoring i. (D’Elia, inventor.)
=Escutcheon=—a shield shaped surface for armorial bearings.
=Everstick=—proprietary name for a make of semi-invisible rubber overshoes so contrived as to cling closely to the edges of the sole of a shoe without covering the uppers in front, but covering the entire heel.
=Exaggerated=—in tailoring meaning made larger than is actually necessary to give a clean fit.
=Extension heel=—see E. sole.
=Extension sole=—in shoemaking, a s. that extends or projects out considerably from the uppers, giving a broad tread.
=False back skirt=—in tailoring, the s. of a frock coat made with a whole back and to which an extra piece of goods has been attacht to the right skirt beneath the opening so there will be no gaping when the skirts spread. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., Stubbed b.
=Field=—the top of a uniform cap.
=First-over=—tailoring term, meaning strap measurement (qv); the first measurement over the shoulder.
=Footless stocking=—a s. made without a foot, but with a retaining strap or band reaching beneath the foot; once a favorit s. with bicyclers who usually wore a light cotton sock beneath, if the footless s. was of wool or tickly worsted. Also called strap-ends, in the trade.
=Footman’s coatee=—a frock coat shaped somewhat like an evening dress coat but of livery cloth and with shorter skirts which are prest flat and have full length side edges; the fronts meet at the end of the roll and are closed with loopt buttons.
=Frock back=—tailor’s term for the b. of a frock coat made with a center seam and open skirts. Compare Stubbed b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt.
=Front of scye=—meaning obvious. Compare Back scye and Scye.
=Full box=—tailoring term for an exaggerated box coat; very full and loose in every way.
=Furnisher=—same as haberdasher.
=Gaiter=—see Congress shoe.
=Gilded youth=—the idol (and eke despair) of multitudinous equivocal ladies and ambitious shopkeepers.
=Gilt edge=—synonym for extra quality.
=Gladstone bag=—a traveling b., usually of leather or imitations thereof, flat sided, taller than its width, hinged at the bottom and opening into equal-sized sides. Also called Railroad b.
=Glottolin=—a German preparation, recently placed on the market, for soothing tender and sensitiv necks; rubbed on a rough-edged collar it will make the collar, it is said, easy and comfortable to wear.
=Gum boots=—vernacular for rubber b.
=Highwater pants=—too short.
=Jimmal ring=—see Gemel r.
=Knights Templar uniform=—the full u. for officers consists of coat and trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, shoulder straps, gauntlets and plumed chapeau; and frequently a cape or cloak of black beaver. Commanders and past commanders wear gold wherever metal appears, but other officers and Sir Knights wear white except for buttons and shoulder straps, which are of gold—the Prelate alone excepted, whose belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a double-breasted military frock coat lined with black.
=Leather goods=—trade term embracing light leather manufactures, such as luggage, pocketbooks, belts, shawl straps and the like, but not applied to shoes, harness, machinery belting and heavy manufactures.
=List=—(1) a price schedule; (2) a price from which a discount is allowed.
=Mackinette=—proprietary name for raincoats. (Not distinctiv.)
=Men’s furnisher=—same as haberdasher.
=Men’s furnishings=—shirts, collars, cuffs, underwear, hosiery, suspenders, neckwear, pyjamas, jewelry, fancy waistcoats, bathrobes, bathing suits, etc.
=Men’s wear=—(1) broadly, anything for men to wear or use as distinguisht from articles or goods for women’s wear; (2) in the woolens trade the heavy suitings, coatings, etc., as distinguisht from the lighter dress goods, cloakings, etc., for women’s wear.
=Muto coat=—proprietary name for an overcoat, recently introduced, convertible from an ordinary dressy street c. into an auto driving or storm c., the feature being a collar which may be adjusted as a stept lapel collar or as a high banded Prussian or cadet collar with coat buttoned to the neck.
=Napkin=—an article of table linen used or misused in a manner indicating one’s breeding.
=Narrow wale=—obviously, the reverse of wide w. (qv); most frequently applied to diagonal suitings of close uniform ribs, whether flat or prominent.
=Netherlings=—humorous (?) for stockings.
=Noose=—only a very small percentage of us ever have to wear one and then but once.
=Past commander’s coat=—(=Masonic=) same as Commander’s c.
=Pickets=—an old word probably meaning the same as picot (qv), of which it seems to be a misspelling.
=Pin ticket=—a device for marking merchandise, samples, etc., with price, size and other memoranda; also more or less (am)usingly left around on chairs, benches, etc.
=Pineapple cloth=—(1) a soft, filmy textil material made from the fibers of the pineapple leaf, and of but little use in men’s wear; (2) another name for a fine thread-about handkerchief linen; also known as shamrock linen.
=Prelate’s coat=—(=Masonic=) see Knights Templar uniforms.
=Raiment=—why, wearing apparel!
=Rainproof=—general term for woolen and worsted coatings, suitings, etc., rendered weatherproof or rain-repellant by any of various processes. See Cravenette.
=Robe=—broadly, a long loose flowing gown worn over other garments, as a judge’s or priest’s r., an academical gown, etc.; more broadly, any kind of a costume used to cover other clothing.
=Rockler=—an old corruption of roquelaure (qv).
=Second-over=—in tailoring, a measurement taken for obtaining the shoulder hight.
=Selling agent=—the accredited representativ (or contractual jobber or middleman) of a mill or factory.
=Sheath coat=—see next.
=Sheath trousers=—one of the idiocies of 1908, ascribable, doubtless, to the hysterical feminin revival of directoire immodesties and their pernicious effect upon some men too invertebrate to uphold the precious responsibilities of their sex.
=Shirr=—to draw into gathers; to give a puckered or drawn effect.
=Shirring string=—a stout tape or cord for drawing a part of a garment or article together in some part or place.
=Short bosom=—a dinky sort of shirt b., supposed to be more comfortable for day wear under a waistcoat, but about as edifying as a flapping dicky when one catches a glimpse of it thru an opened waistcoat.
=Skuffer=—proprietary name for a make of shoes constructed on anatomical lines, having very broad and very heavy (yet flexible) soles and broad, low heels or wedge heels, the innersides of the heels being built to conform to the shape of the human heel and the entire shoe, which is made without nails, moulded into footform.
=Spread=—see Button s.
=Stand=—the inner part of a folded collar (of a coat or shirt) or that portion on which the collar “stands”.
=Store service=—in retailing, a method (any method) of maintaining a high standard of efficiency and esprit du corps among employes, customers also being, in some instances and to a certain extent, taken into the confidence of the house. In general, an effort to prevent mistakes, waste, etc., and adjust such as may happen. A variant of Welfare work (qv).
=Straight leg=—term applied to riding boots having little or no shape to the leg and resembling, above the ankles, flattened cylinders.
=Strap ends=—see Footless stocking.
=Swab=—a wool pompon for a uniform cap, so-called thru resemblance to a gunner’s s.
=Syddo=—a soft, flexible, elastic woolen fabric recently introduced as a substitute for haircloth, claimed to possess certain working advantages for coat fronts, being neither too stiff nor too yielding.
=Tar=—an odoriferous, dark, viscid, oily liquid sometimes applied to the body, after other clothes have been removed, to which a decorativ and protectiv effect is added by means of loose feathers; thus clad one is free to seek sympathy, aid and other clothes wherever they may be had.
=Togards=—proprietary name for a sort of half-foot of stocking material intended for wear inside the stocking to prevent those of thin or sheer texture from wearing out too quickly.
=Tracing braid=—narrow soutache b., used largely for decorating military uniforms, etc.
=Unclad=—nothing on.
=Uric acid test=—a test facetiously proposed during the resist dye-guaranteed dyes agitation of 1908, when woolens and worsteds were subjected to extraordinary tests for permanency; altho a jest, a very practical suggestion.
=Visiting card=—a little bit of pasteboard that causes inconceivable agony to anyone who, having made his pile, tries to break into society.
=Waiter’s jacket=—in the better restaurants (if the dress coat is not compulsory) a sort of mess j. of black cloth or alpaca; in cheaper restaurants a j. of white duck resembling a bartender’s coat.
=Welt flaps=—in tailoring, a welt finish to a pocket, the lower portion being extended and free, like a flap.
Appendix
A BILL OF MATERIALS
To the clothing manufacturer or journeyman tailor this table of materials required for the various garments tells nothing new; but the average retailer of clothes likely knows but little of it; while to the man in the street, the consumer, it is doubtless all news and possibly full of wonderment.
So far as is known, this is the first time such a list has been compiled.
The Cloth Required
Men’s wear woolens, worsteds, etc., are commonly 54 inches wide. These yardages are figured on that basis.
A sack suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. An evening dress suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A Tuxedo suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A cutaway frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards. A double-breasted frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards. A Norfolk jacket and trousers require 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A hunting coat and trousers require 3¾ yards to 4½ yards. A top coat requires 2¼ to 3¼ yards. A Chesterfield overcoat requires 2¾ to 3½ yards. A raincoat requires 3 to 4 yards. An ulster requires 3½ to 4½ yards. A skirted overcoat requires 3½ to 4 yards. Trousers require 1¼ to 1½ yards Hunting and broad fall trousers require 1½ to 2 yards. Riding breeches require 1⅜ to 1¾ yards. Waistcoats, single-breasted, no collar, require ¾ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, single-breasted, notch collar, require ⅝ to 1⅜ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, double-breasted, no collar, require ⅝ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, double-breasted, notch collar, require 1 to 1¾ yards 27″ goods.
Linings, Findings, Etc., Required for Coats