Category: Travel Writing

Wintering in the Riviera With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers

Former and Present Times—Bugbears—Language—Passports—Impedimenta—Guide–Books— Hotels—Money and Exchange—Routes to Paris—Cook’s and Gaze’s Railway Tickets—_Voyages circulaires_—Supplementary Billets —Customs Examination—Time—Railway Arrangements—Billets—_Salle d’attente_—Guards...

Chapters

17. Part 17

After this hot day, we had two continuously wet days. The rain poured heavily, the wind blew violently from the south–west, and the torrent beds of the rivers were filled to an...

37. Part 37

The French and Spanish form the bulk of the visitors during August and September, these months constituting, _par excellence_, what is called the season, while during the winter...

33. Part 33

After we had seen a good deal of Venice we ascended the campanile of St. Mark. This is a wide square tower, and by a commodious sloping internal ascent the belfry is attained, w...

38. Part 38

About half way to Biarritz, a very elegant white stone villa in the Moorish style is passed—the Villa Sophia. There is something very unique in the appearance of this building,...

9. Part 9

There is great variety in these cracks. The crack of the heavy carter’s whip differs from that of the coachman’s lighter one. There is the single crack, the double or back and f...

18. Part 18

The most westerly of the valleys is that of Gorbio, which in some respects is the most beautiful, as it is the most secluded of all the three. It has no broad torrent bed like t...

27. Part 27

The drive to the Catacombs of Calixtus is very interesting; the ground lies by the Appian Way some distance out of the city, and beyond the Porta St. Sebastian. On the way the t...

13. Part 13

The railway to Marseilles passes several interesting places, and among others, the towns of Orange, Avignon, and Arles, which all contain relics of Roman occupation. On occasion...

24. Part 24

Spezia, on arrival, appeared beauteous, and, though a tolerably large town, quite rural after Genoa. We drove to a large new hotel, the Croce di Malta, the omnibus entering the...

32. Part 32

THE rain continued while we proceeded to Venice, but cleared off shortly before we arrived at our journey’s end, about five o’clock. The country for some distance from Bologna i...

14. Part 14

It is at all times difficult to realize a place from description, even with the aid of the pictorial art; but perhaps from this short delineation it may be perceived that there...

34. Part 34

In order to see a little of the town, we took a carriage one afternoon and drove out in the direction of the Piazza d’Armi, a large open space about 2000 feet square, outside th...

7. Part 7

All the Continental hotels are, with few exceptions, prepared to take visitors upon pension—that is, on board. But there are establishments which, _par excellence_, are termed p...

5. Part 5

The speed on Continental railways is, as compared with that on English railways, very slow. There are what are called express trains, but these express trains do not attain the...

3. Part 3

I may also mention that Mr. Cook, the tourist, publishes a series of handbooks for the countries to which his tours apply; and that recently Black has also added to his list of...

16. Part 16

Such are the general outlines of the landscape. I shall have to recur to some of them hereafter. To those who can appreciate scenery, the _tout ensemble_ cannot fail to produce...

39. Part 39

‘The Gave serpentines through the charming undulating country that surrounds the town. Grain, meadows, and vines diversify the scenery, and innumerable country–houses are everyw...

30. Part 30

There are excursions from Sorrento upon the hills which can be accomplished by aid of donkeys, and it is also possible to cross over the hills to Amalfi, though this was not rec...

36. Part 36

Interlachen, with which we had many associations, is a charming spot at which to remain for some time, and I arranged for my family to stay at the Jungfrau Hotel _en pension_, w...

29. Part 29

Naples itself, the largest and most populous city in Italy, is, from a little distance, picturesque, resting, somewhat like Genoa, on a half–circle of sloping heights, with a br...

4. Part 4

On landing in France, it is found that there is a difference of time between Paris and London of ten minutes. All the French railways go by Paris time; all Swiss railways, by Be...

28. Part 28

The grounds of some of the villas about Rome are also opened to the public; but they are not kept with the neatness and tidiness which characterize gentlemen’s grounds at home....

25. Part 25

Some people set about the seeing of sights in Rome in a very methodical, systematic manner, and so as to ensure their missing nothing, planning minutely each night what is to be...

2. Part 2

We have only to go back half a century to the time when a tour upon the Continent of Europe was attended by great expense, inconvenience, and even danger. It consumed much time,...

35. Part 35

We had a continuance of hot weather, and in those glorious days this was generally the even tenor of our way. In the early morning, too soon to rise and dress, but tempted to lo...

20. Part 20

The villas about Mentone are, as already mentioned, like the generality in the Riviera, painted in lively colours, and surmounted by tidy–looking red–tiled roofs. Slate is unkno...

6. Part 6

But foreigners make a more substantial meal a little later on, which they call _déjeuner à la fourchette_, corresponding somewhat to our lunch. This is intended to be the real b...

31. Part 31

On the south side of the cathedral, in the piazza, we found the little church of the Misericordia, belonging to that peculiar body of monks who, dressed in long black cloaks, wi...

15. Part 15

Nice is a large town in the province of Nice, formerly part of the Sardinian kingdom, when the boundary line between France and Italy lay about four miles to the westward of the...

26. Part 26

Of these, the one which predominates, and by its imposing mass generally claims the first examination, is the Colosseum. It stands nearly free from other buildings, in all the s...

40. Part 40

When these difficulties were overcome, the British portion of the population at least were disquieted by the attitude taken by England in regard to affairs in the East. Before w...

12. Part 12

Out of Paris and Rome, there is hardly a ‘Dissenting’ Church represented; and as the worship of the other churches does not fundamentally differ, it may be convenient, in what I...

23. Part 23

About three miles from San Remo, looking up a valley, one of those curious old towns which are perched on the top of a hill becomes visible. I had thought it to be Ceriana, whic...

11. Part 11

It was not often that we were induced by curiosity to go into a Roman Catholic Church on a Sunday. The proceedings are unintelligible to the uninitiated, and the service seems t...

8. Part 8

A more objectionable course to obtain remuneration has sometimes been taken at Mentone, of asking the visitors to buy tickets for a raffle. Of course, each visitor is expected t...

21. Part 21

It is commonly thought that it must be a disagreeable feature of Mentone that visitors encounter in their walks so many invalids there. No doubt there are a good many invalids a...

22. Part 22

San Remo is, like Mentone, surrounded by a half circle of mountains, but of a much softer–looking character. Bignole, the highest, is 4300 feet high. They do not approach so clo...

10. Part 10

In some towns of Italy, such as Milan, there are laid stone–ways, being two parallel courses of flat stones, each course perhaps about a foot broad, embedded in the causeway and...

19. Part 19

And now pass in review before us all the inhabitants—no, not all the inhabitants, but a considerable section of the visitors, intermingled with a few of the residents of this re...

1. Part 1

Former and Present Times—Bugbears—Language—Passports—Impedimenta—Guide–Books— Hotels—Money and Exchange—Routes to Paris—Cook’s and Gaze’s Railway Tickets—_Voyages circulaires_—S...

41. Part 41

We had a beautiful day on which to leave for Aix–les–Bains by the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The view of the snowy mountains was brilliantly clear as we approached them. In about six mi...

42. Part 42

Bourne’s Catechism of the Steam Engine. Fcp. 8vo. 6_s._ — Examples of Steam, Air, and Gas Engines. 4to. 70_s._ — Handbook of the Steam Engine. Fcp. 8vo. 9_s._ — Recent Improveme...

43. Part 43

Back from or on the other side of the main street, there are many other hotels and pensions, among which may be mentioned, west of the Carrei, the Splendide (on Gaze’s list), a...