Part 1

WINTERING IN THE RIVIERA

WITH

NOTES OF TRAVEL IN ITALY AND FRANCE

AND

_PRACTICAL HINTS TO TRAVELLERS_

BY

WILLIAM MILLER, S.S.C.

EDINBURGH

With Illustrations

LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1879.

[_All Rights Reserved._]

MORRISON AND GIBB, EDINBURGH, PRINTERS TO HER MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE.

THIS VOLUME,

CONTAINING MEMORIES OF HIS BELOVED DAUGHTER’S LAST JOURNEYINGS,

IS INSCRIBED TO

CHRISTOPHER GODWIN, ESQ., J.P.,

STOKE BISHOP, BRISTOL.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

PREFACE, x

I.

_CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING._

Former and Present Times—Bugbears—Language—Passports—Impedimenta—Guide–Books— Hotels—Money and Exchange—Routes to Paris—Cook’s and Gaze’s Railway Tickets—_Voyages circulaires_—Supplementary Billets —Customs Examination—Time—Railway Arrangements—Billets—_Salle d’attente_—Guards and Porters—Carriages—_Dames seules_—Smoking —Carriage Windows—Speed—Train Peculiarities—Stations—Omnibuses —_Petite vitesse_, 1

II.

_HOTEL AND PENSION LIFE._

Hotels—Railway Results—Construction—Lifts—Charges—Bougies—Service—Rooms—Meals —Breakfast—Lunch—_Table–d’hôte_ Dinner—Supplies—Wine—Dining _à la Carte_—Foreign Practices—Life at Table—Pension—Charges —Extras—Fires—Gratuities—Bills—Cook’s and Gaze’s Coupons —Amusements—Tarantella Dance—Remuneration to Performers —Charades—Readings—Plays—Amateur Performances—Musical Bands —Furnished Villas—Cost—Servants, 43

III.

_LOCAL MEANS OF CONVEYANCE._

Private Carriages—Horses—Carriages for Hire—Whip–Cracking —Cruelty to Horses—Italian Cabs and Cabmen—Horse Bells —Fares—_Pour boire_ and _buona mano_—Drives beyond Town —Crossing Swiss Passes—Diligences—Steamboat Travelling —Omnibuses—Tramways, 82

IV.

_POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS._

Post Rates for Letters—Underpaid Letters—Newspapers—Registration —Letters for Interior—Post Cards—Delivery—_Poste restante_ —Pillars—Postmen, 98

V.

_SUNDAY ABROAD._

As observed by Natives—English Influence—Public Music—Museums, etc.—Carnival—Fêtes—Elections—Post Delivery—Dinner—Evening Engagements—Sunday Books—Roman Catholic Service—Protestantism —Native Protestant Churches—France—Mentone—Italy—Switzerland —Protestant Churches for English—Presbyterian—The Chapels —Ministers—English Episcopal—Ritualism abroad—Hours of Service —Growing Liberality of Feeling—A Practical Suggestion —Conclusion of Service, 105

FIRST WINTER IN THE RIVIERA.

VI.

_LONDON TO SOUTH OF FRANCE._

_Folkestone_—Passage—_Paris_—Railway Journey from Paris— _Fontainebleau_—_Dijon_—_Macon_—The Rhone—_Avignon_—_Nimes_ —_Marseilles_, 127

VII.

_CANNES._

Arrival—Description of Cannes—The Bays—Estrelles—Grasse—Lord Brougham—Duke of Vallombrosa’s Villa—the Eucalyptus—Croix de Garde—Promenade—Bathing Places—Drains—Garden of the Hesperides—Arbutus—Croisette—California—S. Marguerite—Fort Monterey—Use of Marble—Mosquitoes, Snakes, and Lizards, 144

VIII.

_NICE._

Cannes to Nice—Appearance of—The Chateau—The Paillon Torrent Bed—Nice as a Health Resort—Hotels and Public Places—Nice to Mentone, 159

IX.

_MENTONE._

First Impression—Old Town—Mountain Shelter—West Bay—Tideless Sea—Drains—Olive Terraces—Valleys—Rivers—Rurality—Quarters —Doctors—The Hotels—Pension Charges—Furnished Houses or Rooms—Helvetia—Churches—School and Classes—Public Institutions —Newspapers—Guide–Books—Mentone by Night—Donkey Excursions —Castellar—Rain and Storm—Gorge of St. Louis—The Carrei Valley —View from Bridge—Boirigo Valley—St. Agnes—Castle—Monastery of S. Annunciata and Chapel—The Gorbio Valley—Gorbio—Rochebrune —Cape Martin—Red Rocks and Caves—The Fossil Skeleton—Hanging Gardens—Belinda—Grimaldi—Promenade du Midi—Life on the Promenade—French Attire and Customs—_Monte Carlo_—Gaming Tables —the Garden—Pigeon–shooting—_Monaco_—Mentone Villas—Gardens —Shops—Circulating Libraries—Industrial Occupations—Washing Clothes—Fishing—Sheep–keeping—Donkey–letting—Woodwork—Town and Rural Labourers—Animal Labour—Birds—Mosquitoes—Deaths—Funerals —Cemetery—the Evenings—Red–letter Days—Christmas Day—New Year’s Day—Conscription Day—Carnival—Corsica—Weather during Winter, 166

ITALY.

X.

_SAN REMO AND GENOA._

Cross Frontier—The _douane_—_Ventimiglia_—_Bordighera_—_San Remo_—Climate—San Remo described—Excursions—Hotels and Pensions—Visitors—Doctors—Churches—Industries–The Women—Photographs—San Remo to Genoa—Italian Money—Fares—Coast Towns—Savona—Pegli—_Genoa_—Position and Appearance—Statue of Columbus—Hotel Rooms—Drive through Town—S. Maria di Carignano —The Streets—Palaces—Churches—Public Park—Campo Santo, 237

XI.

_SPEZIA, PISA, SIENNA._

Railway to Spezia—Hotel—Cold Weather—_Spezia_, a Summer Place—Described—Carrara Marble Quarries—_Pisa_—Leaning Tower —Cathedral Baptistery—Campo Santo—The Town—Drive to _Lucca_ —_Sienna_—Position—Collegio Tolomei—Cathedral—Its Library —Frescoes—Piazza Vittorio Emanuele—Town Hall and other Places —Citadel—Italian Soldiers, 263

XII.

_ROME._

Quarters—Piazza di Spagna—Carriages—The seeing Rome—First Sunday —Scotch Church—Castle of St. Angelo—St. Peter’s—Piazza—Interior —Apostle Peter in Rome—St. Peter’s Aisles and Altars—Mosaics —Ascent of Dome—Palm Sunday—The Vatican—Sculptures—Pictures —Sistine Chapel—Preliminary Drive through Town—The Streets, Buildings, etc.—Lecturers on Rome—The Colosseum—Rome’s Birthday Illuminations—Arches of Constantine and Titus—Old Roman Roads —Forum Romanum—The Capitol—Church of Ara Cœli—The Museums —Palatine Hill—Palace of the Cæsars—Temple of Vesta—Cloaca Maxima—Monumental Pillars, Trajan’s—M. Aurelius—The Obelisks —Aqueducts—Baths of Caracalla—Columbaria—Catacombs of Callixtus —Appian Way—The Churches—Pantheon—S. Pietro in Vincoli—Jesuit Church—Capuccini—S. Clemente—SS. Cosma e Damiano—The Lateran —Santa Scala—S. Maria Maggiore—S. Paolo fuori le mura—The Palaces—Contents of Galleries—Engravings and Photographs of Pictures—Copying Pictures—The Rospigliosi—Guido’s Aurora—The Barberini—Beatrice Cenci—Other Galleries and Studios—The Royal Palace—Borghese Grounds and Casino—Pincian Hill Gardens—Drive to Tivoli—The Campagna—Hadrian’s Villa—_Tivoli_—S. Lorenzo fuori le mura—Shop Purchases—Photographs—Mosaic Jewellery—Bronzes —Copies of Paintings—Old Rome as it was, 275

XIII.

_NAPLES, POMPEII, SORRENTO._

_Naples_, Drive through—Cabs and Cabmen—Population—Thieving—Bay of Naples—Town described—Cathedral—Hotels—Museum—Chiaja—Aquarium—Photographs —Bijouterie—_Castellamare_—_Pompeii_—Museum—Excavations—Old City—Public Buildings—Private Dwellings—Streets—Shops— _Sorrento_—Excursions—Capri Blue Grotto—Sorrento Woodwork —Beggars—Return to Naples—_Puteoli_—Amphitheatre—Solfatara, 322

XIV.

_FLORENCE AND BOLOGNA._

_Florence_—Situation—Lung’Arno—Florence described—Bridges—S. Miniato—Piazza Michel Angelo—Fiesole—The Streets—Cascine —Historical Associations—Churches—Cathedral—Campanile —Baptistery—Misericordia—S. Croce—Chapel and Tombs of the Medici—Museum of S. Marco—S. Spirito—Piazza della Signoria —Loggia—Palazzo Vecchio—House of Michael Angelo—Uffizi Gallery —Pitti Gallery—Artists copying—National Museum—Palazzo Corsini —Academia delle Belle Arti—Association for Encouragement of Fine Arts—Florentine Marbles and Mosaics—Italian Lungs— _Bologna_—Drive through Town—Leaning Towers—Museum and Library —S. Petronio—Villa Reale—Campo Santo—S. Domenico—S. Pietro —Academia delle Belle Arti, 343

XV.

_VENICE AND VERONA._

_Venice_—Railway Station—Hotel Danieli—Bridge of Sighs—S. Marco —The Presbyterio—Clock Tower—Piazza and its Shops—Venetian Glass—Gondola—Island of S. Georgio—La Guidica—Churches of Venice—Palaces—Doge’s Palace—S. Marco—Whitsunday—Mosaics —Campanile—Ponte di Rialto—Museo Correr—Academia delle Belle Arti—Arsenal—Lido—Moonlight—Is Venice healthy? Grand Canal —_Verona_—Drive through Town—Market–Place—Piazza dei Signori —Tombs of Scaligers—Arena—S. Zenone—Other Churches—Tomb and Window of Juliet, 361

XVI.

_MILAN AND THE ITALIAN LAKES._

_Milan_—Cathedral—Ceremonies—Ascent—Piazza—Galleria—Drive about Town—Piazza d’Armi—Arco della Pace—Amphitheatre—S. Ambrogio—S. Lorenzo—Public Park—Novel Mode of Watering—Temperature —_Italian Lakes_—Arona—_Maggiore_—Baveno—_Lugano_—S. Salvatore —Luini’s Frescoes—_Bellaggio_—Hotel Grand Bretagne—_Lake Como_ —Villa Serbelloni—Villa Carlotta—Villa Melzi—Sail to _Como_—St. Giovanni—Hot Days, 380

SWITZERLAND—FRANCE.

XVII.

_THE SPLUGEN PASS, SWITZERLAND._

Sail to Colico—_Chiavenna_—_Splugen Pass_—Campo Dolcino—Madesimo Fall—Summit of Pass—Descent to Splugen—_Switzerland_—_Splugen_ —Via Mala—Thusis—_Ragatz_—Pfäffers Gorge—Lucerne—_Interlachen_ —Run Home—_Chateau d’Œx_—Sepey—Aigle—_Montreux_—_Geneva_, 401

XVIII.

_BIARRITZ._

Lyons—_Cette_—_Toulouse_—Lourdes—Pau—Bayonne—_Biarritz_—Railway Station—Hotels—Cold Winds—Recent Origin of Town—Description —The Season—Natural Attractions—Storms—Breakwater—Boating—Rocks —Tide—Drains—Bathing Establishments—Bathing—The Bathers—Dresses —The Scene—Aquatics—Walks—Light–house—Villa Eugenie—Drive to _Bayonne_—Its Fortifications—Bridges—_St. Jean de Luz_—Excursion to _S. Sebastian_, Spain—Season ends, 415

XIX.

_PAU._

Imposing Appearance—Pension Colbert—The Season—Climate—Writers on—Rise of Pau—Town—View of Pyrenees—Chateau—Public Park —Environs—Excursions—The Cemetery—French General Election, 439

XX.

_SECOND WINTER IN THE RIVIERA._

Pau to Toulouse—_Montpellier_—Climate—Town—Train to Marseilles —_Toulon_—_Hyères_—Hotels—Climate—Garden—La Plage—Hyères to Cannes—Mentone—Cold Weather—Improvements—More Building —Political Position in France—Eastern Question—English Position causes Anxiety—Death of Victor Emmanuel and Pope—Services in Cathedral—Carnival—Gaieties—Mentone to S. Remo—S. Remo to Alassio—_Alassio_—Hotels—Town—Situation—Walks and Views—Dr. Schneer on Climate—_Genoa_—Via Orifici—Galleria, etc.—_Turin_ —View of Alps from Monastery—The Town—Monuments—Waldensian Church—Mont Cenis Tunnel—_Aix les Bains_—Return Home, 450

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

1. Frontispiece—View from Footbridge up the Carrei to North Mountain Range, Mentone.

2. The Estrelles from St. Honorat, Cannes, Facing 147

3. Oil Mills, Carrei Valley, Mentone, ” 191

4. Promenade du Midi, Mentone, ” 205

5. Corsica as occasionally seen before Sunrise, Mentone, ” 235

6. A City set upon a Hill on Road to Lucca, ” 271

7. Sorrento from the West, ” 337

8. Ponte Vecchio, Florence, ” 345

9. Tomb of Juliet, Verona, ” 379

10. Bellaggio, Lake Como, ” 393

11. Port Vieux Bathing Establishment, Biarritz, ” 421

12. Biarritz Bathers, ” 429

PREFACE.

THE health of my wife having rendered it advisable to spend a winter in the South of France, I made arrangements to accompany her, and we left home in October 1876. After a short stay at Cannes and three months in Mentone, with marked improvement, we made a tour of four months in Italy, and then passing the remainder of the summer of 1877 in Switzerland, and the autumn chiefly in Biarritz and Pau, we spent a second winter in the Riviera, principally in Mentone, returning to England _viâ_ Turin in May 1878.

* * * * *

We had visited so many places, and seen so much while thus travelling during our first year, that it occurred to me, during our second sojourn at Mentone, to write out some notes of what had come within our knowledge which might prove both useful and interesting to others, and particularly to those who desired to winter in the Riviera. The field, however, was large, and to bring observation into reasonable compass I could only present general views—indications merely—of what we had seen; and, indeed, more than this I could scarcely have ventured upon, because I had not travelled with any idea of writing on the subject, and the notes I had kept were therefore scanty, although sufficient, with a vivid recollection of so much calculated to impress, to enable me to describe, as far as description is perhaps desirable. We saw much, and might have seen more within the time, but it was necessary to avoid fatigue.

* * * * *

The descriptions contained in the following pages are therefore to be regarded not as finished pictures, but rather as the scenes of a moving panorama, exhibiting in succession views of the more salient points in the various places to which the reader will be taken, and depicted according to the fashion of such scenes, too roughly to bear close inspection or minute criticism.

* * * * *

When people were compelled to travel slowly, they could take with them, and had time to read and digest full narratives of all they were about to see. It was by no means impossible to carry in the lumbering carriage, or to read during the leisurely journey, a whole library of such voluminous and now forgotten books as the _Modern Traveller_. But the rapidity of railway travelling has changed even the character of the guide–book, which, with more copious and complete information, has been so clipped and condensed, been made so concisely and methodically useful,—such a veritable _multum in parvo_,—that every other virtue is forgotten, and to take up a volume of Bædeker in order to beguile an hour, or even to obtain a general notion of a place, would be one of those freaks of which wise men are not readily guilty.

People are therefore more than ever thrown upon reading of a different description; and notwithstanding the various books which have been published upon the Riviera, and the still larger list of those upon Italy, I think none of them, so far as I have seen, are exactly on the same lines as the present. It is, indeed, not a little noticeable that so many, in writing upon Italy, should have chosen to wrap their descriptions in some strange, weird story. In _Corinne ou L’Italie_, Madame de Staël depicts an exotic Scotch nobleman wildly drawn about from one part of Italy to another by a most extraordinary platonic love for an Italian improvisatrice, in order that the different localities may obtain description. The _Improvisatore_ of Hans Christian Andersen, with a difference of mode, is much upon the same model for the same purpose, the machinery by which the hero is blown hither and thither being much more prominent than the places upon which he alights. The _Transformation_ of Hawthorne, in order to describe Rome, forces us into strange scenes and into company with a mysterious ‘faun’ and a beautiful murderess; while _Romola_, by George Eliot, in describing Florence, drags us after a smooth–faced, smooth–tongued, heartless villain, who attains to power with an odd facility, and after blasting a lovely life, is, to every reader’s relief, tragically removed from the world. Even Ruffini’s _Dr. Antonio_, commencing amidst placid scenes with all the softness of a _pastorale_, terminates by breaking hearts, and in the din of a revolution, with guns crashing and roll of death–dealing musketry on the streets of Naples.

Amongst its many deficiencies, the present volume is undoubtedly wanting in this sensational element of popularity.

Neither, on the other hand, can it lay claim to the merit of filling the place either of the guide–book or of the medical adviser. Its chief utility may be in giving in a general way to those designing to go abroad for a period of time, some knowledge which may perhaps aid them where to go and what to see; while there is furnished for the benefit of novices, in the preliminary chapters, some practical information, which the experienced traveller, who knows it all and could state it much better, will be graciously pleased, if so inclined, to skip.

* * * * *

In revising at home what was written abroad, I have studied to ensure accuracy of statement, and have been rather surprised, on comparing authorities, to find how widely they frequently differ regarding matters involving figures, so much so that occasionally I have withheld any statement on the subject. Some of these discrepancies I have noticed.

* * * * *

Accurate ideas of places can be best formed with the aid of the pictorial art. A book of this nature is susceptible of endless illustration, and but for adding to the bulk and the expense, there could have been no difficulty in illustrating every page of the travels. I have preferred selecting a few subjects, nearly all from my own sketches, which have been lithographed by Waterston of Edinburgh. That of the Estrelles is from a sketch in colours by a lady friend.

Of these illustrations, Mentone has carried off the lion’s share, and perhaps rightly, because of all the places of health resort visited by us, we conceived it to be the most charming, and it was in the winter–time our headquarters. There are those who prefer Cannes, Hyères, Bordighera, or San Remo. Even Alassio may become a favourite residence. But it was our opinion that Mentone unites to a well–sheltered, dry, sunny, winter climate (which is, however, not suitable for all invalids), the most beautiful and picturesque scenery, the most delightful walks and excursions, with a fascinating rurality which, I fear, the natives, looking at the matter from a French point of view, are bent on destroying, by way of raising it up as a sort of rival in gaiety to such places as Nice. There is one drawback, in its proximity to the Monte Carlo gambling tables. But to those who can resist temptation, a trip to Monte Carlo—a bright, beautiful, sunny spot, clean and tidy, with its tropical gardens, its broad terraces, flanked by elegant white stone balustrades—is only an additional attraction; while the adjoining unique peninsula of Monaco, running out into the sea from the mountains of the _Tête de Chien_, and crowned by its palace, its fortifications, its dwellings, its trees, is one of the many attractive points which, combined with the beautiful blue of the Mediterranean, lend such a charm to this part of the Riviera.

* * * * *

This book would probably never have been written had it not been begun and all but completed abroad, while in the sunshine of gladness and hope. Looking to the cause of our travels, it was unavoidable that I should mention at its close how sadly all hopes were crushed. But I have striven as far as possible to eschew the introduction of all merely personal allusions. I feel, however, I must take this opportunity of thanking the members of the legal body to which I belong, and of which I had, at the time it became advisable to leave home, the honour of being chief office–bearer, for their courtesy to me then, and for the heartfelt sympathy which so many of them have since expressed. I would only say to them as to others, that we have had of late not a few examples of valued friends who, long after it became really necessary, have toiled, and fagged, and wearied their brains out in the pursuit of an anxious and laborious profession till they have spent their last days or years in utter prostration. Better far, when they can, to obtain thorough relaxation in the enjoyment of a year, or even two years, of Continental travel over such interesting ground as in this book I have attempted in some small measure to describe.

W. M.

GEORGE SQUARE, EDINBURGH, _July 1879_.

ERRATA.

Page 27, 19th line, instead of _for_ read _from_.

” 38, 9th line from bottom, for _any_ read _every_.

” 60, 5th line, for _visible_ read _visibile_.

” 91–3–4, for _manu_ read _mano_.

” 272, 7th line from bottom, for _tombs_ read _tomes_.

” ” 5th ” for _his_ read _this_.

” 305, for _Clementi_ read _Clemente_.

” 320, 11th line, for _have_ read _leave_.

” 369, 1st line, for _et_ read _e_.

I.

_CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING._

I HAVE sometimes thought that if it were possible for a person of mature years now living to return to the world, with memory unimpaired, after a period of five hundred or even of one hundred years hence, how strangely new to him everything would appear! Events succeed each other in these times with such startling rapidity, that he would be a bold man who would venture to predict what even a generation will bring forth. We may speculate on the effects likely to result from agencies now in operation,—as to what, for example, may be the future of Great Britain, looking to the gigantic scale on which hazardous enterprise is carried on; to the contests of labour with capital in which natural laws are set at defiance; to the growth of Ritualism in the English Church; to the penchant which our rulers seem to have for annexing or conquering remote provinces, stern and wild or insalubrious; to a thousand other things which are with more or less force influencing or disquieting our country commercially, socially, or politically,—but none of us can possibly foresee the actual consequences and the condition of things to which they will lead. In the future there is so much dependent on occurrences which appear to us to be fortuitous (though truly under the guidance of Supreme Wisdom), that we can only feel that over all there hangs an impenetrable veil of mysterious darkness. A single unexpected event may turn aside the policy of an age, or even alter the divisions of the world. A single man by a foolish blunder may plunge nations into protracted war. A single happy discovery, a single clever invention, may affect the fortunes or alter the habits of a whole people. A single convulsion of nature may change the aspect of a state. But when we turn from the future to the past, the case is different, and we can pretty well realize what the feelings of one who has lived, say, sixty years ago would be if he could now return to earth. It would, indeed, be some time ere he would begin to grasp the extent of the wonderful changes which, since he formerly lived, have been effected. But of all the changes flowing from the inventions and discoveries which the long peace succeeding Waterloo was instrumental in producing, he would probably be most struck by the revolution accomplished in the matter of travelling.