Part 42

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] _Life of Watt_, 1839, p. 198.

[2] A compilation recently published gives an account of the means of conveyance had in times past in Great Britain, but does not, except very incidentally, touch upon those on the Continent. See Croal’s _Book about Travelling, Past and Present_, W. P. Nimmo, Edinburgh.

[3] The following table, taken from Croal’s _Book about Travelling_, p. 575, shows the extent of the railway system in 1875 on the European Continent:—

Miles Square Miles of Territory of to each Mile of Line. Railway.

Belgium, 2,174 5 Switzerland, 1,300 11 German Empire, 14,472 12 France, 12,376 14 Denmark, 561 18 Netherlands, 1,016 20 Austria and Hungary, 10,154 20 Italy, 4,817 23 Spain, 3,822 50 Roumania, 770 59 Portugal, 596 61 Sweden, 2,237 63 Turkey in Europe, 965 138 Russia in Europe, 11,591 157 Norway, 339 387 Greece, 7 2,658

[4] The normal value of a sovereign is 25 francs 20 centimes.

[5] It may be interesting to give, as far as I have preserved note of it, the rate of exchange received at different places during part of the period we were away:—

At Cannes, Nov. 1876, per £, 25·75 ” Mentone, Dec. ” ” 25·25 ” ” thereafter, ” 25· ” Nice, February 1877, ” 25·75 ” San Remo, March ” ” 27·20 ” Genoa, ” ” ” 27·10 ” Rome, 23d ” ” ” 27·03 ” ” 19th April ” ” 27·90 ” Florence, 28th ” ” ” 28·10 ” ” 7th May ” ” 28·15 ” ” 12th ” ” ” 28·10 ” Venice, 20th ” ” ” 28·25 ” ” 22d ” ” ” 28·15 ” Milan, 26th ” ” ” 28· ” Como, 11th June ” ” 27·10 ” Bellagio, ” ” ” ” 27·47 ” Lucerne, 25th ” ” ” 25·15 ” Interlachen, 13th July ” ” 25·10 ” Paris, Aug. ” ” 25· ” Interlachen, ” ” ” 25·10 ” Montreux, 8th Sept. ” ” 25·12 ” Biarritz, Oct. ” ” 25· ” Pau, 18th ” ” ” 25·05 ” ” 21st ” ” ” 25·12 ” Cannes, Nov. ” ” 25·06 ” San Remo, March 1878, ” 27·03 ” ” April ” ” 27·45 ” ” ” ” ” 27·37

[6] Little monthly time bills or leaflets can be got at the Company’s offices in London and Paris, for which see Bradshaw. Some of them also, like Cook’s and Gaze’s Lists, contain through fares to most places on the Continent.

[7] A quarto publication, called _Voyages circulaires viâ le Mont Cenis et la Corniche_, is issued by ‘Agence de Paris, Rue Auber 1, Maison du Grand Hotel,’ containing circular tours in Italy, starting from Paris, Nice, and Marseilles.

[8] The following may be given as specimens of the menu:—

_At the Grand Hotel du Louvre, Paris._

_Potage._—Consommé aux Quenelles; Hors d’œuvre; Melon. _Relevées._—Saumon Sauce Hollandaise; Pommes de terre nature; Train de Côtes à la broche; Aubergines à la Provençale. _Entrées._—Timbales à la Joinville; Poulardes à la Demidoff. _Rot._—Canetons de Rouen au Cresson; Salade de Romaine. _Entremets._—Petits Pois à l’Anglaise; Biscuits Princesse; Garnis d’Allumettes. _Desserts._

_At a Provincial Hotel in France, somewhat more meagre than usual, however (verbatim)._

_Potage._—Tapioca. _Relevées._—Epigrammes d’Agneau Bretonne. _Entrées._—Poulets Sautés Maringa. _Legumes._—Choux de Bruxelles. _Rôtis._—Ros bief. _Entremets._—Charlotte de Pommes Parisien, etc. _Dessert._

[9] _A Winter’s Sketches in the South of France and the Pyrenees_, p. 7.

[10] At Naples I sat next a German who helped himself to four thick slices of roast beef, then, according to German custom, began by placing one above another, and cutting the whole into little squares by drawing his knife first lengthways and then crossways through them, and having so divided the beef, took his knife and shovelled, in quick succession, all the pieces into his mouth. Fish is often a scarce commodity, yet I have seen German ladies, after having liberally helped themselves to it, call for more as they would for more of any other course, though it is unusual for others to ask a second supply of any course.

[11] Since this chapter was written, alterations have been made on the French postal rates, and, _inter alia_, the postage to England is reduced to 25 centimes, and for the interior to 15 centimes; but I have allowed the text to stand as referring to the time we were away. There may be other changes of which I am not aware.

[12] The _Guide_, arranged alphabetically, contains information regarding the following countries and places:—Austria, Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Italy, Norway, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey in Europe, and the Mediterranean. In Denmark and Greece the number of Protestant churches is very limited. The Mediterranean embraces fifty–four towns, including towns in Egypt and Palestine.

[13] The figures in this chapter are all given subject to correction.

[14] Bowing the head or bowing the knee at the mention of the name of Jesus, is one of those literal renderings sometimes put upon words of Scripture, of which in reading through, long ago, as a student, the _Corpus Juris Canonici_, I found examples. The subject is disposed of in Mr. Thomas Spalding’s _Scripture Difficulties_, p. 269.

[15] In Mr. Birrel’s interesting _Life of Dr. Brock_, a man of great power and, I believe, of much liberality of mind, the following passage (p. 241) occurs in reference to a Sunday in crossing the Atlantic:—’Next day was all that a Sunday at home could be. We had service, Mr. Nolan again officiating—the captain, however, this time reading the prayers himself. One thing struck me painfully: when the absolution came to be read, the captain gave way to the priest, who alone stood and alone spoke; he alone had authority in the great matter of remission. The captain had none. Of what is this the germ?’

[16] A French kilometre is equal to 1093·633 yards; an English mile is 1760 yards. Two miles are therefore more than three kilometres, and two kilometres are equal to about one mile and a quarter (1¼). But all the foreign measures differ, and it is puzzling therefore to know from the railway guides and others what are the distances in English miles. A uniform mileage system would be exceedingly useful. In fact, the statesman who could effect uniformity in measures, weights, and coinage throughout Europe, would do more real good than is obtained by more glittering acts.

[17] _Vide_ Figuier’s _World before the Deluge_, p. 317.

[18] I have seen the numbers produced by a single insect in the course of a year stated in a newspaper, but unfortunately did not preserve a note of the information, which is not given in the usual books about insects.

[19] It would be hardly possible for me to give from recollection a complete list of all the hotels and pensions in Mentone, but I may note some at least of the most prominent. Having had friends in many of them, we had occasional opportunities of seeing them, and learning a little regarding them; but only residence in each could enable anybody to speak authoritatively, and therefore observations now made must be taken in a very general way, and subject to all allowances, and as perhaps mistaken.

At the extreme west, the Pavillon is, I believe, a well–appointed hotel; but it is fully half a mile outside the town, to some a recommendation. Between it and a small house, now called the Hotel Anglo–Americaine, near to the Boirigo Bridge, there are several elegant villas, some of them to let furnished. East of this bridge, facing the promenade, are the Pension Condamine (small and moderate) and some other minor houses and pensions; then the Hotel de Russie (one on Gaze’s list); and crossing the Carrei, the first house beyond, and overlooking the public gardens, is called the Pension Americaine, in reality an hotel, with good cuisine, kept by an active, clever, and attentive landlady; near to it, the Pension Camous, a tall, overtopping, narrow building, at which the town street may be said to commence; adjoining it, the Pension or Hotel de Londres; and a little farther east, and more in town, the Hotels Westminster, Victoria, and Menton—all large, and, I believe, expensive; and, last of all, the Hotel du Midi. Beyond the Promenade, close to the market–place, and not far from the harbour, the Hotel Bristol. With the exception of the two last, all have gardens of more or less size between them and the promenade, and all have access on the other side to the public street.