Category: Cooking & Drinking
Garum--Pilau seasoned with garum, 2. The Feast of Trimalchio in Petronius, 2. Macrobius’s description of a supper given by Lentulus, 2. Hedge hogs, raw oysters, and asparagus, and purple shell-fish, 2. Panes picences, 2. Greeks and Romans children in preparation of viands, 3....
Garum--Pilau seasoned with garum, 2. The Feast of Trimalchio in Petronius, 2. Macrobius’s description of a supper given by Lentulus, 2. Hedge hogs, raw oysters, and asparagus, a...
2. CHAPTER II.--ON MODERN COOKERY AND COOKERY BOOKS.The object of sensible people should be to adopt all that is good in the cookery of France, 61. French potages and purées, 61. The gigot à l’ail aux haricots, 62. The filet de b...
3. CHAPTER III.--ON DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING.Jules Janin, 66. Dr. Johnson, 66. Sydney Smith, 67. Apicius, 67. Nonnius, 67. Lémery, 68. Dr. Lister, 68. Dr. Kitchener, 68. Drs. Pereira and Lankester, 68. London dinners, 69....
4. CHAPTER IV.--ON LAYING OUT A TABLE.5. CHAPTER V.--HOW TO CHOOSE FISH, FLESH, FOWL, AND GAME.Salmon in and out of season, 98. How to choose various fish, 98–109. How to choose venison, 109. Mutton, 111. Lamb, veal, and pork, 112, 113. Bacon and hams, 114, 115. Poultry,...
6. CHAPTER VI.--ON SOUPS AND BROTHS.Grand bouillon, 124. Rules for making nourishing broth, 125. How to make a stock-pot, 126. Celery to flavour soup, 129. Broth, 130. The great English soups and broths, 131. Carè...
7. CHAPTER VII.--HOW TO CLEAN AND BOIL FISH.8. CHAPTER VIII.--ON FISH.Fish naturally most voracious, 145. As a diet wholesome and palatable, 146. Fish rarely served as an entrée in England, 146. Various ways of serving turbot in France, 146–7. Tur...
9. CHAPTER IX.--THE ROAST.Definition of roast, 160. Rôtisseries, 161. Rôtisseurs, 161. The traiteur, 161. The cuisinier traiteur, 161. The maître cuisiniers, 162. The art of roasting, 162. The best joint...
10. CHAPTER X.--BOILING.11. CHAPTER XI.--POULTRY.Definition of poultry, 174. Requisites in a poultry yard, 174. Best modes of feeding and cramming poultry, 175. Wholesomeness of poultry, 175. Lémery on fowls and capons, 176–7....
12. CHAPTER XII.--GAME AND PASTRY.Definition of game, 186. Keeper and taker of pheasants, 186. Swanherd, 186. 17 Hen. VIII., falconry, 187. Cookery Book of Taillevant, cook to Charles VII.; receipts for dressing...
13. CHAPTER XIII.--CHEESE AND SALADS.Soft and rich cheeses the best, 196. Stilton and Gruyère, 196. Best English cheeses, 196. Best cheeses in France, 198. Roquefort, 198. Gruyère, 198. Italian cheeses introduced i...
14. CHAPTER XIV.--ON SALAD.John Evelyn “On Salets,” 202. Fournitures of salads, 202. Chicorée, 203. Winter salads, 203. Roman or Coss lettuce, 204. Hotchpotch salads, 204. Salade à l’italienne, 204. Carèm...
15. CHAPTER XV.--THE DESSERT.Carème’s opinion of dessert, 213. La Chapelle’s opinion of dessert, 214. Forced cherries sent from Poitevins, in 1560, to Paris, 215. La Quintinié, head gardener of Louis XIV.,...
16. CHAPTER XVI.--ON ICES.17. CHAPTER XVII.--COFFEE.Coffee, 235. Drank in Paris in 1657, 235. Praises of coffee by Rousseau, Buffon, Voltaire, Montesquieu, Delille, and Lebrun, 236. The retreat from Russia and coffee, 237. Twinin...
18. CHAPTER XVIII.--ON DIFFERENT LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS, ANDLiqueurs, 245. Alkermes and rossolis, 245. Liqueurs of Batavia’, Jamaica, Martinique, and Montpelier, 246. Ratafias; absinthe, noyau, and curaçoa, 246. Eau d’or and eau de vie d...
19. CHAPTER XIX.--ALE, BEER, CIDER, AND PERRY.Bass’s, Allsopp’s, and Guinness’s ale and stout, 263. Cider, its origin and history, 264. Cocky Gee, 265. Perry and hydromel, 266. Different kinds of beer, 267. The zythus and c...
20. CHAPTER XX.--ON WINES, ANCIENT AND MODERN.Lord Bacon, Bacci, Barry, Redding, Shaw, and Denman on wines, 275, 276. Hippocrates on vinous mixtures, 276. Plato and Homer’s praises of wine, 277. Virgil, Pliny, and Columella...
21. CHAPTER XXI.--THE CELLAR FOR WINES.Luxuries of the table in France and England in mediæval and modern times, 373. Menu of a dinner given by Mathieu Molé, in 1652, 375. Menu of a supper of the Regent Orleans, 376....
22. CHAPTER I.The traditions of classic cookery may be said to be nearly effaced; but sufficient remains recorded to afford grounds for comparison, and he must be prejudiced who hesitates for...
23. CHAPTER II.I am, in the matters of the kitchen, as will be learned from the previous chapter, no admirer of the wisdom of our ancestors. Cookery is eminently an experimental and a practica...
24. CHAPTER III.Dinner is unquestionably the most important and substantial meal of the two, three, or four, in which civilized man indulges, and it is a meal which any healthful and laborious...
25. CHAPTER IV.The manner of laying out a table is nearly the same in all parts of the United Kingdom: yet there are trifling local peculiarities to which the mistress of a house must attend....
26. CHAPTER V.Fish of all sorts is best when short, thick, well-made, bright in the scales, stiff and springy to the touch, the gills of a fresh red, and the belly not flabby. When the gills...
27. CHAPTER VI.At every great dinner--indeed I may say at every dinner of the least pretension in the most civilised countries--you begin by eating soup. Often in Paris and at Brussels, betwee...
28. CHAPTER VII.The great thing to be attended to in the preparation of fish, is to have every particle that is foul or offensive cleansed away. This must, however, be accomplished in such a ma...
29. CHAPTER VIII.Plutarch tells us that Symmachus and Polycrates wrote treatises to prove that the “innocent fishes” should be respected, and that they who ate of them were among the most feroci...
30. CHAPTER IX.The definition given of the word roast in the “Dictionnaire des termes du vieux François,”[15] is a very curious one. Here it is:--“Rost et raust du rosty. Ce mot vient de _rust...
31. CHAPTER X.All meats should be boiled slowly, in sufficient water; and a ham should not be allowed to boil until a very short time before it is taken out of the pot, in which it has been a...
32. CHAPTER XI.The term Poultry, includes all the domesticated birds reared for the table--fowls, capons, turkeys, geese, ducks, and guinea fowl. Those who live in the country and intend to re...
33. CHAPTER XII.Game in England is declared to include hares, pheasants, partridges, grouse, heath or moor game, black game, and bustard. Snipe, quail, landrail, woodcock, and conies are not ga...
34. CHAPTER XIII.There is a great deal of difference in cheese. Much depends on the preparation and seasoning, much on its being new or old, much on its taste and smell. That is the best cheese...
35. CHAPTER XIV.In 1664, if my memory serves me rightly, John Evelyn wrote a treatise “On Salets,” in a small volume, which I possess in my library; but I cannot, at this moment, lay my hand on...
36. CHAPTER XV.The Dessert, if by that word be understood the agreeable mingling together of cakes, of fruits, and sweetmeats, is an Italian invention. It was cradled in the sweet south, and i...
37. CHAPTER XVI.At regular set dinners ices are always served. For a party of ten or fourteen there is generally a cream and water ice, with biscuits, &c. The French generally serve a greater n...
38. CHAPTER XVII.The coffee tree is a native of Arabia. The use of the berry extended itself to Mecca, Medina, and then to Cairo in Egypt. It continued its progress northward; and in 1554, under...
39. CHAPTER XVIII.The name of _liqueurs_ is given to preparations composed of spirits of wine, brandy, sugar, and the extracts of certain substances more or less aromatic. The desired result is o...
40. CHAPTER XIX.Ale or beer are rarely if ever produced at regular set dinners now-a-days, though at quiet family parties of three or four, or in private houses _en famille_, table beer, ale, a...
41. CHAPTER XX.Several treatises have been written on wine in most European countries. Lord Bacon, in the days of Elizabeth, did not disdain to give his attention to the subject; and his Itali...
42. CHAPTER XXI.The cellar for good wine should be a suitable lodging for this welcome guest in every well arranged household. A great deal of wine, good and middling, is spoiled beyond redempt...