CHAPTER XV.--THE DESSERT.

Carème’s opinion of dessert, 213. La Chapelle’s opinion of dessert, 214. Forced cherries sent from Poitevins, in 1560, to Paris, 215. La Quintinié, head gardener of Louis XIV., served strawberries in March, peas in April, and figs in June, 215. Preserved pines at dessert in Paris, in 1694, 215. Italian liqueur prepared from the pine, 215. Dates, 216. Tunisian dates the best, 216. Oranges, 216. Fondness of Louis XIV. for, 216. Portuguese oranges, 217. Sweet citron, carried by ladies, to produce red lips, 217. Figs common at dessert in France 270 years ago, 217. Fig-trees placed in wooden boxes by the gardener of Louis XIV., 218. Figs at Worthing and Hampton Court, 218. Pomegranates, 218. Chestnuts, 219. Madame de Sévigné on chestnuts, 219. Cherries, 220. Apricots, 220. The reine claude, or greengage, 221. The peaches of Corbeil, of Troyes and, Dauphiné, 222. Pêches de vigne, 223. Abricots en plein vent, 223. The New-town pippin, 223. Golden pippin, 223. The paradis de Provence, 223. The capendu, 223. Pears and their different species, 224. Gooseberries, 224–5. The chasselas of Fontainbleau, and other grapes, 225. Strawberries and their varieties, 226. Trois mendiants, 227. Olives of Provence and Languedoc, 227. Gingerbread, 228. The drageoir, 229. Brandied fruits and compotes, 229. Brillat Savarin on the dessert, 230. Melon eaten with bouilli, 231. Madame de Sévigné on melons, 232.