Category: Travel Writing

Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2

CHAP. I.—To Corte through Balagna, 58 II.—The City of Corte, 64 III.—Among the Goat-herds of Monte Rotondo, 73 IV.—The Mountain-top, 85 V.—Vendetta or not? 92 VI.—From Corte to Ajaccio, 95

Chapters

11. CHAPTER VII.

In order to understand the Corsican dirges, we must consider them in their relation to the existent usages in connexion with death—usages which date from a remote antiquity. Amo...

22. CHAPTER V.

When Napoleon came on a visit to Ajaccio, he liked to live and work in Milelli—a little country-house in the neighbourhood of Ajaccio belonging to the family—where the old oak-t...

23. CHAPTER VI.

In the year 1790, two battalions were to be formed in Corsica, the soldiers being allowed to name their _chefs_ themselves. It is worth noticing on this occasion, how the subseq...

39. CHAPTER III.

It was at Aleria that, on the 12th of March 1736, Theodore von Neuhoff disembarked, who was the first of a succession of Corsican _parvenus_, who give a mediæval and romantic ch...

14. CHAPTER III.

————"tomo un puño de bellotas en la mano, y mirandolas atentamente sotto la voz a semejantes razones: Dichosa edad y siglos dichosos aquellos a quien los antiguos pusieron nombr...

40. CHAPTER IV.

Scarcely had Theodore set foot in Corsica, and become famous in the world, than the Republic of Genoa issued a manifesto, wherein they animadverted on him very severely; "and th...

41. CHAPTER V.

The paese of Cervione lies northward from Aleria, on the slope of the hill. I wish that I had visited it, and this desire is now my punishment for neglecting the opportunity of...

30. CHAPTER IV.

The people of the village of Monte d'Olmo were one day celebrating a festival of the Church. The priests had taken their places before the altar, and numbers of devout worshippe...

21. CHAPTER IV.

We dwell with singular interest on the childhood of extraordinary men; the imagination pleases itself with the picture of the boy still lost among his play-fellows, and unconsci...

33. CHAPTER VII.

Alfonso of Arragon, after he had examined the position of the town, took possession of a high hill lying towards the north; and from it and the sea he kept up a perpetual fire o...

13. CHAPTER II.

The arrondissement of Corte, the central district of the island, embraces fifteen cantons and 113 communes, and contains a population of 55,000. The town itself has about 5000 i...

34. CHAPTER VIII.

My locanda stood opposite an old and gloomy house, the marble entablature of whose door attracted my attention. There were old sculptures on it—the arms of Genoa, and Gothic ini...

25. CHAPTER VIII.

The house in the street Napoleon, in which the fugitive Murat lived, has been rebuilt in a style of great magnificence. The arms of the Pozzo di Borgo family, above the door, in...

7. CHAPTER III.

I had become acquainted in Bastia with a gentleman of Balagna, Signor Mutius Malaspina. He is a descendant of the Tuscan Malaspinas, who governed Corsica in the eleventh century...

18. CHAPTER I.

Ajaccio lies at the northern end of one of the most magnificent gulfs in the world. The lines of its two opposite coasts are of unequal length. The northern is the shorter; it r...

26. CHAPTER IX.

I spent some time in wandering through the country round Ajaccio. The uneven nature of the ground allows you to walk only in three directions—along the shore to the north, inlan...

32. CHAPTER VI.

About eight o'clock in the morning I set out from Sartene to Bonifazio, the most southerly town and fortress in Corsica. The road lay along a desolate coast, the hills sloping g...

35. CHAPTER IX.

In the evening, a little before twilight, I love to go through the old fortress-gate, and sit down on some point of the high coast. Here I have around me no common picture,—Boni...

27. CHAPTER I.

The road from Ajaccio to Sartene is rich in remarkable scenery and peculiar landscape. It runs for a time along the Gulf of Ajaccio, crosses the river Gravone, which falls into...

20. CHAPTER III.

The origin of the Bonaparte family can no longer be precisely ascertained. Low flattery has availed itself of the most ridiculous means to procure Napoleon ancient and dignified...

15. CHAPTER IV.

The day was dawning. I went out and refreshed myself in the waves of the sleepless Restonica, which sprang young and fresh from rock to rock, and hastened down into the valley....

9. CHAPTER V.

The miasma of the marsh made the Borgo of Calvi—the little suburb—unhealthy. More salubrious is the air of the fortress above, which encloses the city proper. I ascended to this...

36. CHAPTER X.

One beautiful morning, going out of the town by the old Genoese gate, on whose wall are carved a lion-rampant and the sainted dragon-queller George—the arms of the Bank of Genoa...

6. CHAPTER II.

——"Of which fruit what man soe'er Once tasted, no desire felt he to come With tidings back, or seek his country more. But rather wish'd to feed on lotus still With the Lotophagi...

12. CHAPTER I.

I gave up the thought of a journey which I had at one time intended to make along the coast from Calvi to Sagone, where the large gulfs of Porto and Sagone, and those of Galeria...

37. CHAPTER I.

The localities from Bonifazio upwards, along the east coast, are lonely and desolate. The road runs past the beautiful Gulf of San Manza to Porto Vecchio, a distance of three le...

29. CHAPTER III.

The town of Sartene contains only 3890 inhabitants. It is the capital of the arrondissement, which is divided into eight pieves or cantons, and has a population amounting to 29,...

5. CHAPTER I.—TO ISOLA ROSSA THROUGH NEBBIO.

Crossing from Bastia the hills which form the continuation of the Serra of Cape Corso, you reach the district of Nebbio, on the other side of the island. The excellent road firs...

38. CHAPTER II.

As the traveller approaches the Fiumorbo river, he sees isolated palatial mansions; some of them are the seats of French capitalists who began imprudently, and became bankrupt....

19. CHAPTER II.

The narrow street of St. Charles issues upon a little square. An elm stands there before an oldish three-storied house, the plaster of which has been coloured a yellowish-gray;...

17. CHAPTER VI.

Travelling from Corte to Ajaccio, you keep ascending for several leagues till you reach Monte d'Oro; the road leads southwards through a beautiful and well-cultivated undulating...

8. CHAPTER IV.

My vetturino was not long in informing me that I had the honour of travelling in an extraordinary vehicle. "For," said he, "in this same _char-à-banc_ I drove last year the thre...

10. CHAPTER VI.

The poetry of this evening was not yet exhausted. I had scarcely fallen asleep in my little locanda, when the twanging of citherns, and the sounds of voices singing in parts, aw...

28. CHAPTER II.

The Taravo forms the boundary between the province of Ajaccio and that of Sartene, the most southern of the arrondissements of Corsica. The traveller, on entering it, comes at f...

31. CHAPTER V.

Sartene is encircled by a range of bleak mountains, to the north of which stand the Incudine and Coscione. The Coscione is celebrated for its rich pasture-grounds, which are wat...

16. CHAPTER V.

I was not destined to leave the quiet Corte without some slightly unpleasant recollections, and that owing to my guide of Monte Rotondo. It was not till after I had returned to...

24. CHAPTER VII.

"Where are the princes who held mightiest sway? Where are the heroes all, the wise and bold? The world endures when thou hast pass'd away, And none has read its riddle deep and...

3. BOOK IX.

CHAP. I.—From Ajaccio to the Valley of Ornano, 181 II.—From Ornano to Sartene, 188 III.—The Town of Sartene, 192 IV.—Two Stories of the Vendetta—Orso Paolo and Dezio Dezii, 197...

2. BOOK VIII.

CHAP. I.—Ajaccio, 100 II.—The Casa Bonaparte, 108 III.—The Bonaparte Family, 113 IV.—The Boy Napoleon, 120 V.—Napoleon as Zealous Democrat, 130 VI.—Napoleon's Latest Activity in...

4. BOOK X.

CHAP. I.—The East Coast, 248 II.—Sulla's Colony, 253 III.—Theodore von Neuhoff, 258 IV.—Theodore the First, by the Grace of God and through the Holy Trinity, King of Corsica by...

1. BOOK VII.

CHAP. I.—To Corte through Balagna, 58 II.—The City of Corte, 64 III.—Among the Goat-herds of Monte Rotondo, 73 IV.—The Mountain-top, 85 V.—Vendetta or not? 92 VI.—From Corte to...