Part 27

The clerestory is of beautiful design. Each bay contains an arcade of three arches, the central one, which is opposite the window, being larger than the side arches. The arches are supported on detached piers, behind which runs a gallery. These piers each consist of two shafts, with central fillet. They have first pointed round caps, over which a round block receives the arch mouldings as they descend.

A small portion of the north end of the transept adjoins the above, which shows that the structure has been carried up in two stories of richly moulded windows (see Fig. 420), all in the same style as the adjoining portion of the choir. The remaining portion of the aisle is vaulted with moulded ribs springing from responds and corbels corresponding in style with the choir.

The whole of this part of the church is of very fine design and workmanship, but it is, unfortunately, a mere fragment. Additional interest attaches to it from its forming the last resting-place of Sir Walter Scott and members of his family.

AIRTH CHURCH.[197]

This ruined church adjoins the old Castle of Airth, which lies half a mile from the Forth and eight miles south-east of Stirling. The church is in part a building of considerable antiquity, dating from the transition period about the end of the twelfth or the beginning of the thirteenth century, but it has undergone many alterations, and only a small part of the early structure remains. The building as it now stands (Fig. 423) consists of a

nave and chancel, having a south wing or aisle, containing the Airth vault, and forming a transept, with a tower at the re-entering angle of the Airth aisle, and with indications of an aisle on the north side of the choir. There are also two burial vaults attached to the building, one on the north side and the other at the south-west angle, called respectively the Bruce and Elphinstone aisles. The internal length of the church is 79 feet 3 inches by about 19 feet 9 inches in breadth. The most ancient part of the church (Fig. 424) is on the north side of the nave, and consists of a bay of what has been a nave arcade, opening into a north aisle. One pillar and respond (tinted black on the Plan), with the connecting round arch, still

stand. The original arcade probably consisted of three bays extending to near the west gable, where there are indications, at the ground level, of what appears to have been the western respond. Whether there was originally a south arcade or not cannot now be determined, as this part has been entirely rebuilt, and all traces of the north and south aisles of the nave, if there was a south aisle, have perished. The existing north bay is 11 feet 3 inches wide, and the pillar, which is circular, is about 17 inches in diameter. It has a capital, carved with simple foliage (Fig. 425), and has a square abacus. The arch has a double set of plain arch stones, with plain soffit.

The few details which survive are extremely interesting, and show this to have been a building of some importance. Behind the above bay now stands the burial aisle of the Bruces of Powfoulis. It bears over the doorway the initials of Sir James Bruce and his wife, Dame Margaret Rollox, of Duncrub, and on another part the date 1614. It seems probable that this, as well as the other aisles shown on Plan, contained, on the upper floor, the family seats or galleries of the respective houses whose arms they bear, and a burial vault beneath.

Judging from the few details left, the Airth aisle is a structure of the fifteenth century. It measures about 24 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 3 inches wide, and has contained a large traceried south window, which is now destroyed, and brought to the condition shown in Fig. 426. The external hood moulding of the window remains with nicely carved terminations (Fig. 427). Beneath this window is seen the top of an arched tomb, in which probably the recumbent effigy (Fig. 428) once lay. There is a small square-headed window in the east wall, divided by a mullion; but, as appears from its mouldings, it is an insertion of perhaps the seventeenth century. Adjoining this is the usual ambry. Beneath this aisle is the burial vault (indicated by dotted lines on the Plan), which is reached by the stair shown. On the outside of the east wall there is a niche for a statue (Fig. 429). It has the usual canopy and bracket so frequent on the churches of this late period. The bracket (Fig. 430) contains the Bruce arms--viz., the chief and saltier; the chief being charged with two incised cinquefoils, which may point to an alliance with the Livingstone family. The same arms, but without the cinquefoils,

appear beneath each of the first crow steps of the gable. This aisle was probably erected by Alexander Bruce of Stenhous and first of Airth (1452 to 1483), who was a son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan,[198] and is stated to have married (first) Janet, daughter of the first Lord Livingstone, by whom he had no issue. It was probably “our Ladie Aisle, founded and situated on the south side of the Kirk of Airth,” the chaplainrie of which was presented by Sir Alexander Bruce of

Airth, the patron, to Robert Bruce, younger, his son, on 30th October 1572.

The effigy (see Fig. 428), which, as already stated, probably occupied the tomb in the Airth aisle, lies at present in a mutilated state in the

eastern portion of the church. There is no certainty whom the recumbent figure represents, but it is in all likelihood an effigy of one of the ladies of either the family of Erth or of the Bruces of Airth. It has been stated that another effigy lies beside the one referred to, but we understand from a person who has examined the ground that nothing of the kind is to be found. This effigy, which is 6 feet 3 inches long by 1 foot 10 inches in breadth, is greatly mutilated; but the coverlet extending from the waist downwards is well preserved, and is very finely carved, and, so far as we know, is unique amongst Scottish figures.

In Airth Castle is preserved the stone shown in Fig. 431. It appears to have been taken from the church and to have formed a part of a piscina or ambry. The fragment measures about 2 feet high, with an opening about 12½ inches wide. It doubtless belonged to the Airth aisle.

The Elphinstone aisle, which is separated from the nave by a semicircular arch, presents no architectural features of note; but on the exterior of the gable towards the south there is a well-preserved stone (Fig. 432), with shield bearing the Elphinstone arms, parted per pale with those of Livingstone and Calendar quarterly, with the motto “Cavis Cavis” (Caus Caus), the date 1593, and at either side the letters M A ♢ E and I ♢ L ME, the initials of Alexander, fourth Lord Elphinstone, and his wife Jane, eldest daughter of William, sixth Lord Livingstone.

The tower contains, on the lintel of the doorway, the inscription I V L Y + THE + 15 + 1647, doubtless the date of its erection. The other parts of the church appear to be of late seventeenth century work, and need not be further referred to.

LASSWADE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN.

Lasswade is a village on the south bank of the river Esk, about six miles south from Edinburgh. The old Parish Church stood, till 1866, in the ancient churchyard, on a height above the south side of the river. “It became a mensal church of the Bishopric of St. Andrews in the twelfth century, forming a prebend of St. Salvator’s Church; but was annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, in the reign of King James III.”[199]

The old structure having become unsuitable, a new church was erected in 1793, and the old building was allowed to fall into ruins. Some portions, however, were preserved, and converted into mausoleums. In one of these aisles lie the remains of Henry Dundas, first Lord Melville; in another is buried the poet Drummond of Hawthornden.

The old church (Fig. 433) consisted of a single oblong chamber 20 feet in width, with a tower 16 feet square at the west end. The aisles, or

mausoleums, above referred to, are projected from the north side. The westmost is roofed with stone slabs, and has a picturesque appearance.

The tower and a portion of the church were of considerable age, and may be classed as Transition work. In 1866 the tower had become much crushed and dangerous. While steps were being taken by the heritors

to have it strengthened the tower fell. The accompanying drawings were made before that event.

The tower (Fig. 434) was three stories in height, besides the gables of the saddle roof which crowned it. The entrance to the tower was from the inside of the church by a round-headed doorway (see East Elevation), with simple impost and plain arch with hood moulding. Above this was a large round-arched opening into the roof of the church. The two lower stories had narrow pointed windows. The top story had double-pointed lights, with central mullion in each face. This story had an enriched cornice, above which rose the east and west gables, each with a small round-headed window. A door had been knocked into the tower on the south side (Fig. 435), which, doubtless, helped to weaken it.

In a portion of the south wall of the church, near the tower, there was preserved an original doorway (see Fig. 435) about 5 feet 6 inches wide. It resembled that to the tower in design, having plain jambs, with a string course forming the imposts, and a plain round arch above, enclosed with a hood moulding. All the above features seem to point to the structure being one of the first half of the thirteenth century.

Annexed is a sketch of the effigy of a knight in armour (Fig. 436), which is lying in the churchyard. There is no record of the knight’s name.

BATHGATE CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE.

About one mile east from the town of Bathgate stands the old ruined church, surrounded by an ancient burial-ground. It is a long, narrow,

ivy-covered building (Fig. 437), measuring internally about 91 feet 2 inches from east to west by 19 feet 5 inches from north to south, with walls from 3 to 4 feet in thickness. The doorway, which was probably round arched, is almost the only feature of its architecture left. The opening is unusually wide, showing 7 feet of daylight (see Fig. 437), and, judging from its details, the church belonged to the transitional period. The doorway was decorated with shafts placed in square nooks or recesses, with carved capitals having the square abacus, a certain feature of early work. (Fig. 438.) Both inside and outside the walls are so entirely covered either with ivy or tombstones that almost no part of the masonry can be seen; only one small window on the north side, about six inches wide, being partly visible.

The grave slab (Fig. 439) has lately been fixed into the south wall. Some time ago it was lying on the floor. It measures 6 feet 2 inches long by 2 feet 3 inches wide, and bears a beautifully lettered inscription to the memory of Andreas Crichton. In the centre of the slab there is a cross, with the Calvary steps, and beneath the cross limb a shield with the Crichton arms (a lion rampant), and on the dexter side a long sword.

In the Exchequer Rolls for the year 1497, Andrew Crichton of Drumcorse (the name of the estate adjoining the church on the north) first comes into view. On the 1st May 1502, Crichton entered office as the Chamberlain of the Lordship of Linlithgowshire. He presents his accounts yearly, his last being rendered from July 1513 to July 1514, when he presumably died. His monumental slab was, doubtless, carved shortly after that date.

There is a very beautiful recumbent statue (Fig. 440) lying in the church. It appears to be an early work, but no record exists to tell whose memory it commemorates.

Malcolm IV. (1153 to 1165) granted the church of “Bathket,” with certain lands, to Holyrood.[200] Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died about 1159, confirmed those grants. There was, further, a Papal confirmation in 1164. In 1251, by a taxation of churches in the diocese of St. Andrews, the vicar of the Church of Bathgate was to receive 12 merks of the altar dues, to be assigned him at the sight of William, Archdeacon of Lothian, and Master Alexander, of Edinburgh. This was confirmed by Bishop Gamelin.

The church and lands were afterwards given by the monks of Holyrood to Newbotle, in payment of arrears of rent for lands and salt works in the Carse of Callender, and this was confirmed by Bishop Landels, of St. Andrews, in 1327.[201] The church remained with Newbotle, and was served by a vicar till the Reformation.

The old church was probably abandoned in 1739, when a new church was erected in the town of Bathgate.

INDEX.

Abb’s, St., Chapel, 437.

Abercorn Church, description, 346.

Aberdeen Cathedral, 47.

---- St. Nicholas, description, 426.

Abernethy Tower, 11, 15, 26; description, 175.

Adamnan, 11.

Aidan, St., 11.

Airth Church, description, 465.

Alexander I., 29.

---- II. and III., 50.

Allen, J. Romilly, 2.

Alnwick, 47.

Anchorites, 1.

Anderson, Dr. Joseph, 2, 3, 66.

Antiquaries of Scotland, 101.

Arbroath Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49.

Arched style of building, 32.

Architecture, Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries, 50.

---- Division of, 53.

---- Ceases to be like English, 52.

---- Connection with French, 52.

Ardoilean, 8.

Armstrong, R. B., 465.

Augustine, St., 12.

Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, 83.

Bangor Monastery, 5.

Bathgate Church, description, 474.

Bede, 12.

Beehive Cells, 7, 24, 68.

Benedict Biscop, 12.

Beverley Minster, 54.

Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, 218.

Birsay, Brough of, 135.

Blane’s, St., Bute, description, 292.

Boniface, St., 14.

Boswell’s, St., description, 377.

Brandon’s, St., Birnie, 218.

Brechin Cathedral, 49, 57.

---- Tower, 26, 48.

---- Maison Dieu, 48.

Brendan, St., 67.

Brude, King, 10.

Bunkle Church, description, 314.

Burgundy, 35.

Bute, St. Blane’s, 292.

Buttresses introduced, 34.

Caithness Cathedral, 47.

Cambuskenneth Abbey, 30.

_Candida Casa_, 3, 5.

Canmore, Malcolm, 15, 29.

Canterbury Cathedral, 12.

Cara, Gigha, Kintyre, 82.

Carinish, North Uist, 81.

Carmaig, St., Eilean Mor, 90.

---- Knapdale, 84.

Cashels, Irish, 7.

Catan’s, St., Kintyre, 95.

Cathedrals, Scottish, 49.

Caves, 5.

Cellach, 15.

Celtic Art, 1.

---- Church, 65.

---- Churches standing alone, 78.

---- ---- built with chancel and nave, 93.

---- ---- with pointed or late features, 95.

---- Structures in Scotland, 65.

Chancel architecturally distinguished, 79.

---- added to nave, 79.

Chirnside Church, description, 322.

Churches, dry built, 80.

---- oblong, modified, 82.

---- with nave and chancel added, 88.

---- on islands, 105.

---- in Orkney, 113.

Clonmacnoise, 10.

Coalisport, Loch, 10.

Coldingham Priory, 30, 48; description, 437.

Columba, St., 5, 10, 67, 69.

---- Church, Balivanich, 88.

---- ---- Ey., Lewis, 91.

---- ---- Kiels, Kintyre, 92.

---- Isle, Lewis, 97.

Columban Church, 11, 12, 13.

---- Churches, 25.

Collegiate Churches, 51, 60.

Comgall, St., 5.

Cormac’s Chapel, 28.

Crosses, 9, 10, 17, 20.

Cross, St., Church, 36.

Crosraguel Abbey, 57, 58.

Cruggleton Church, description, 212.

Culbinsbrough Church, Bressay, 157.

Culdees, 14, 15, 30.

Culross Abbey, 48.

Cuthbert, St., 5, 12.

Dalmeny Church, 38; description, 298.

Dalriada, 10.

David I., 29, 30, 38.

Decorated Architecture, 52, 53.

Deerness, Brough of, 68, 101.

Denis, St., 40.

“Deserts,” 8.

Devenish, Round Tower, 27.

Dioceses, Scottish, 29.

Doorways, 55.

Drummond, James, 2.

Dryburgh Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49, 57; description, 448.

Dryden, Sir Henry, 3, 68, 101, 172.

Duddingston Church, 39; description, 333.

Dunblane Cathedral, 38, 48, 49, 50.

Dundrennan Abbey, 30, 47, 48; description, 388.

Dunfermline Abbey, 38; description, 230.

Dunkeld Cathedral, 47, 49, 62.

Dunning, St. Serf’s, description, 204.

Dun Othail, Lewis, 81.

Duns Church, description, 381.

Dunstaffnage Castle, 48.

Durham Cathedral, 37.

Edinburgh Castle, Chapel, 29; description, 224.

Edrom Church, 316.

Edward I., 51.

Egilsey, Orkney, Church on, 26, 127.

---- Choir, 100.

Eilean Naomh, 66.

---- Mòr, 77, 89.

---- Munde, 83.

Elgin Cathedral, 47, 48, 49.

English Cathedrals, 40, 43.

England, Church in, 12.

Enhallow, Orkney, 116.

Eorrapidh, Lewis, 99.

Farne Island, 12.

Finnian, St., School of, 5.

First Pointed Style, 39.

---- ---- in Scotland, 46.

“Flamboyant” Style, 2, 57, 58.

Flannain Isles, 77.

Fortrose Cathedral, 57.

France, Architecture in, 40, 42, 43.

Galloway, William, 297.

Gallowhead, 80.

Germany, 35.

Giles’, St., Edinburgh, 49, 51, 57, 60, 62.

Giric, King, 15.

Glasgow, Bishop of, 29.

---- Cathedral, 47, 48, 49, 50, 57, 58.

Gothic Architecture in Scotland, 2.

Gullane, St. Andrew’s, 339.

Haddington, St. Martin’s, description, 362.

Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, 105.

Head of Holland, Church at, 105.

Helen’s, St., Church, description, 323.

Herdmanston Font, description, 384.

Hermits’ Cells, 73.

Hexham, 12.

Holy Cross Church, Lewis, 83.

Holyrood Abbey, 30, 38, 47, 48.

Howmore, South Uist, 70.

Inchcolm Abbey, 29, 48.

---- Oratory, 24.

Inch Kenneth, Ulva, 98.

---- Mull, 165.

Inchmahome, 48.

Iona, 10, 11, 14.

---- Cathedral, 49, 62.

Iona, Carved Slabs, 23.

---- The Nunnery, description, 421.

Irish influence, 2, 9.

---- Style of building, 8, 9.

---- Round Towers, 26, 27, 28.

Islands, Churches on, 8.

---- Western, Architecture of, 65, 80.

Jarkow, 12, 13.

Jedburgh Abbey, 38, 49; description, 398.

John the Baptist, Church of, Lewis, 95.

---- St., Kirk of, Unst, 148.

Kelso Abbey, 38, 49; description, 347.

Kentigern, St., 11.

Kevin, St., Cell of, 9.

Kiels, Knapdale, 84.

Kilbar, Barra, 71, 72.

Kilbride, Knapdale, 98.

Kilchenich, Tiree, 88.

Kilchenzie, Kintyre, 93.

Kilchieran, Islay, 96.

Kilchieven, Kintyre, 100.

Kilchoman Cross, 22.

Kilchouslan, Kintyre, 92.

Kildalton, Islay, 96.

Killean, Kintyre, 98.

Kilmory, Knapdale, 85.

Kilmuir, Skye, 84.

Kilnaughton, Islay, 96.

Kilneave, Islay, 96.

Kilrimont, 11.

King’s College, Aberdeen, 62.

Kinloss Abbey, 30; description, 416.

Kintyre, 3, 10, 82.

Kirkaby, Westray, Shetland, 147.

Kirkapoll, Tiree, 87.

Kirkliston, description, 366.

Kirkmadrine, Crosses at, 4.

Kirkmaiden, description, 383.

Kirkwall, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, 38, 48, 50; description, 259.

---- St. Ola, 109.

Laggan, Mull, 98.

Lamington Church, description, 376.

Lanark Church, 50.

Lasswade Church, description, 471.

Late or Third Pointed Style, 58.

---- in Scotland, 60.

Legerwood Church, description, 320.

Leuchars Church, 38; description, 309.

Lewis, Butt of, 75.

Lincluden College, 57.

Lincoln Cathedral, 45, 47.

Lindisfarne, 11.

Linlithgow Church, 57.

Linton Church, Roxburghshire, description, 378.

Linton, Shapinsay, 122.

Logierait Cross, 18.

Lombardy, 35.

Lundie, St. Lawrence, description, 382.

Lybster, Caithness, Church, 162.

M‘Alpine, Kenneth, 14.

M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona, 21.

Madoe’s, St., Cross, 17.

Magnus’, St., Cathedral, 259.

Margaret, Queen, 15, 28, 29.

Markinch Tower, description, 193.

Martin’s, St., Church, Haddington, description, 362.

---- Cross, Iona, 21.

Mary’s, St., Lybster, 93, 94.

---- Ratho, description, 371.

---- Rutherglen, description, 372.

Meal Colvidale, Unst, 148.

Medan’s, St., Cave, 5.

Melrose Abbey, 30, 47, 49, 51, 52, 55, 58, 62.

---- Old, 11.

Michael’s, St., Barra, 95.

Middle Ages, art of, 2.

Middle Pointed Style, characteristics, 53.

---- ---- in Scotland, 55.

Moluac, St., Raasay, 98.

---- Teampull, Lewis, 99.

Monasteries established, 31.

---- in Scotland, proportions, 49.

Monkwearmouth, 12, 13.

Monymusk, 30; description, 215.

Mugstot, Skye, 69.

Muir, T. S., 2, 26, 65.

Muthill Church, description, 196.

Nattes, J. Claude, 196.

Ness, North Yell, 151.

Netherlands, 2.

New Abbey, 50.

Newbattle Abbey, 30.

Nicholas’, St., Aberdeen, 39; description, 426.

Nicholas’, St., Strathbroc, description, 342.

Ninian, St., 3.

Ninian’s, St., Sanda, 97.

Norman Architecture, 1, 28.

---- ---- in Scotland, 191.

---- Immigrants, 30.

---- Influence, 79, 84.

---- Style, 35.

---- ---- in Scotland, 38.

Norsemen, 14.

Northumbria, Church in, 11, 12.

Noss Kirk of Bressay, 146.

Nunnery, The, Iona, description, 421.

Nuntown, Benbecula, 83.

Ola’s, St., Kirkwall, 109.

Olrig, Caithness, 99.

Oran’s, St., Iona, 220.

Oratories, Irish, 8.

“Orders” in Architecture, 33.

Orkney, 3.

Orkney and Shetland, Churches, 101.

---- Characteristics, 159.

---- Dates, 162.

---- Monuments, 160.

---- Proportions, 161.

Ornament, 35.

Oronsay, Cross at, 22.

Orphir, Orkney, 141.

Oswald’s, St., Oxstall, 47.

Oxstall, St. Oswald’s, 47.

Pabba, Harris, 84.

Paisley Abbey, 47, 62.

Palladius, St., 5.

Papa Westray, 106.

Parochial divisions, 31.

Patrick, St., 5.

Pennygowan, Mull, 98.

Periods of Architecture, 2.

Perpendicular Style, 2, 57, 58.

Peterhead, St. Peter’s, 371.

Peter’s, St., Peterhead, description, 371.

Petrie, Dr., 3, 26.

Piers, 55.

Pillar Stones, 9.

Pluscardine Abbey, 58.

Pointed Arch, 79.

---- Style, 40.

Pre-Norman Churches, 13.

Ratho, St. Mary’s, description, 371.

“Raths,” Irish, 6.

Reeves, Dr., 3.

Regulus’, St. Andrews, 13, 28; description, 185.

Reilig Oran, 28.

Restennet Priory, 13, 48; description, 178.

Richard II., 51, 57.

Rievaux Abbey, 47.

Ripon, 12.

Robert I., 51, 55, 57.

Roman Church, 12, 14, 15, 65.

---- Masonry, 32.

Romanesque Architecture, 1, 28, 32, 35.

Ronan, St., 73.

Round Churches, 145.

Rossie Priory, Cross at, 19.

Royal Domain, France, 40.

Rutherglen, St. Mary’s, description, 372.

St. Andrews, 15, 30, 38, 47, 49.

Salisbury Cathedral, 41, 44.

Saxon Influence, 1.

Scone, 29, 47.

Sculptured Stones, 3, 15, 16.

Sculptures, Symbolic, 10.

Seven Hunters, 77.

Shetland, 3.

---- Churches in, 101, 145.

Skeabost, Skye, 68.

Skellig Mhichel, 7.

Skipness, St. Columba’s, 48.

Slabs, cross bearing, 9, 15, 17.

Smailholm Church, description, 378.

Spires with open work, 62.

Stobo Church, 39; description, 329.

Stokes, Miss, 3.

Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’, description, 342.

Subordination of Arches, &c., 35.

Suger, Abbé, 40.

Sweudro, Rousay, 108.

Sweetheart Abbey, 49, 57.

Symbols, 16.

Teampull Chalumchille, 89.

---- Pheadair, Lewis, 83.

---- Rona, 73, 74.

---- Sula Sgeir, 75, 76.

---- Na-Trianaide, 81.

Thomas, Captain, 82.

Tigh Beannachadh, 76, 77, 78, 80.

Toehead, Harris, 83.

Transition Style, 387.

---- from Celtic to Norman, 174.

Tredwell’s, St., Chapel, 106.

Trinity College, Edinburgh, 57, 60.

Trophime, St., Arles, 33.

Trumpan, Skye, 84.

Turgot, 29.

Tynninghame Church, description, 326.

Vaults, Barrel, 33.

---- Groined, 34.

---- Late, 58.

---- Pointed, 40.

Vigeans, St., Cross, 20.

Uphall Church, 39; description, 342.

Urquhart, 30.

Uya Church, Shetland, 149.

Wattle Construction, 6.

Wenlock Abbey, 47.