Part 26

The church thus restored is 84 feet in length by 23 feet in width internally, and comprises the ancient north and east walls of the priory choir. The choir never had aisles, the walls having evidently been designed to form the exterior of the building. They are two stories in height (Fig. 398), the ground floor consisting of a series of double round arches, inserted in the intervals between flat Norman-like buttresses. The arches are carved with chevron ornaments, and they spring from slender shafts, each having a square abacus and refined cushion cap. The bases rest on flat corbels, round which a string course breaks. All this Norman-like work is exceedingly fine, and very unlike genuine Norman design.

Its refined character shows that it is of transition style. On the upper story the spaces between the buttresses contain in each a single lancet window, with a nook shaft on each side, and bold first pointed mouldings in two orders in the arches. The shafts have strongly marked early first pointed features in the foliaged caps, with square abaci, central band, and beaded base resting on a string course stepped up to receive it.

The above design extends round the east end, and the whole of the north side, except the two bays at the west end of the latter, where the design is interrupted so as to admit of a porch which seems formerly to have existed there, but is now removed. The angle turrets have a nook shaft at each projecting corner like Norman work. They have now been restored on top with modern masonry.

The design of the interior of the north and east walls (Fig. 399) is very beautiful. It is carried out, like the exterior, in two stories. The lower story consists of a continuous pointed arcade, placed close to the wall, with single detached shafts and bold first pointed arch mouldings. The bases of the shafts rest on a stone bench 1 foot 6 inches high, and the caps are varied with rich transition and first pointed carving (Fig. 400). Curious trefoil and vesica openings are inserted in the spandrils. (Fig. 403.)

The upper story consists of a detached arcade, having a passage behind it in the thickness of the wall (Fig. 401). The arcade comprises an alternation of high and low pointed arches, two of the latter occurring between every two of the former. The shafts are alternately cinquefoil and double in section, as shown in the geometrical drawing (Fig. 402). All these details are prominently first pointed in style, the caps being elaborately carved with foliage of that period, and the mouldings being bold and distinct (Fig. 403). The little bits of foliage introduced at the points of the arches and ends of the labels and strings are also characteristic of early first pointed work.

That the design is late transition or very early pointed work is apparent from all the details. The lower story of the exterior having refined Norman ornaments, and the early date of the first pointed work being emphasised by the whole of the abaci of the caps being square in form, possibly this portion of the edifice may be due to restorations executed after the fire of 1216.

The portions of the south transept still left are very fragmentary, and there are now no traces of a north transept, although in Mr. Hunter’s plan some indications of such a structure are shown. At the north-west angle of the south transept there is an arch, which has been rebuilt, being partly made up of old fragments, but the lower part seems to be ancient. The lower portions of two piers on the east side of the transept still survive (Fig. 404), and exhibit good mouldings. These seem to have formed the piers between the transept and an eastern aisle. When

Grose’s views were drawn in 1789, one of the pier arches still stood, and a corresponding arch of the north transept is also shown as then existing. Part of the west and south walls of the transept, with the shafts (or at least the bases of the shafts) of an arcade, similar to that of the choir, is also still preserved. This building shows a doorway in the south-west angle.

Lying at a distance of 76 feet south from the church, and at a somewhat lower level, are the walls of a great hall (see Fig. 397). The wall, which runs east and west, is fully 100 feet in length, and has attached to it pilasters of segmental form, measuring 1 foot 10 inches across, at

intervals of about 12 feet. From excavations recently made, the width of this building has been ascertained to be 28 feet. The south wall has been 5 feet in thickness, and seems to have been buttressed.

There are three doorways in the north wall, with steps leading down into the building. Part of the east wall also remains, in which is a recess 4 feet 6 inches wide, with splayed jambs, and having an ambry in the back of it. The structure has been vaulted, as is apparent from the remains of ribs and corbels. Part of it may have been the refectory. Unless steps are taken shortly to preserve this building, it will probably very soon disappear.

There seem to have been buildings along the east, extending from this hall to the church. These may have formed the eastern side of a court or cloister, of which the hall formed the southern side and the church the north side.

The east wall of the cloister, which partly remains, has traces of an old doorway (see Plan) about 4 feet 6 inches wide, now built up. It was secured by a sliding bar, the channel for which is still in existence. This doorway is shown in Cardonnell’s _Picturesque Antiquities of Scotland_ as a round arched door. Above it is shown a pointed arched window, and at about 20 feet to the south a great pointed archway, not unlike the arching of the “Pends” at Arbroath. This great archway is also shown by Grose, but the above-mentioned doorway with the sliding bar is not seen in Grose’s view owing to a wall hiding it from his point of view; however, he shows the pointed arched window above. Both the above authors indicate that a wall ran eastward at right angles.

There are several grave-slabs at Coldingham, of which four are illustrated. Three of these are small in size, and the fourth is considerably larger. That shown in Fig. 405 has bevelled edges, with a foliaged cross containing thirteenth century carving. At the top of the cross there is a wasted bust, and at the foot there are Calvary steps. The slab measures 2 feet 2 inches high by 11½ inches wide at the top, tapering to 8 inches at foot. The other three crosses are apparently of a later date.

Figs. 406 and 407 are, like Fig. 405, of small size, the first measuring 32 inches high by 10⅜ inches at the top of the slab, and tapering to 8⅛ inches at the base, and the latter 27 inches high by 10 inches without taper.

Fig. 406 is of an elaborate and peculiar design. On the flat slab a shallow bead with a circular head encloses the design. This consists of two stars at the top, and then of three upright flat-beaded figures about 6 inches high, with corded lines across them; then a Greek cross, a star, and, finally, a double row of three stars. The arrangement of the stars somewhat resembles the similar features at the chancel arch of Legerwood, Berwickshire. The small slab (Fig. 407), which may be

supposed to have covered the grave of a child, appears also to have had an incised sword.

Fig. 408 is 5 feet 2 inches by 16½ inches at the head, tapering to 14 inches at the base, and has bevelled edges, with a flat bead at the sides only. It bears the incised outline of a sword, with a large carved knob for the pommel.

There are several stones at Coldingham preserved from an earlier church than the existing one. Fig. 409 represents one of these, being a Norman cushion capital from a respond. The fragment is 14¾ inches wide by 11 inches high.

DRYBURGH ABBEY, BERWICKSHIRE.

Situated on the north bank of the Tweed (and, consequently, in Berwickshire), this once important abbey belonged to the series of monastic establishments founded in the twelfth century in the valley of the Tweed. It occupies a beautiful position amongst fine woods on an elevated peninsula, surrounded on three sides by a loop of the river Tweed, about five miles below Melrose.

It is said that a religious establishment existed here under the presidency of St. Modan, in the eighth century, but the evidence is scanty.

The monastery, of which the fragmentary remains are still visible, was founded, in 1150, by Hugh de Morville, Constable of Scotland, and received a charter from David I. The canons introduced into it were of the Premonstratensian order, from Alnwick, and, from their dress, were called White Friars.

A large part of the domestic buildings seems to have been erected within fifty or sixty years of the date of the foundation, as they are built in the transition style of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The church appears to have been in progress during the thirteenth century, as in 1242 the Bishop of St. Andrews, owing to the debts incurred in building the monastery, and other expenses, gave the canons permission to enjoy the revenues of the churches under their patronage--one of their number performing the office of vicar in each parish.

The canons took the oath of fidelity to Edward I. in 1296, upon which their property was restored to them. Their possessions were widely spread, and extended into several counties, as appears from letters addressed by Edward regarding them to the sheriffs in the counties of Fife, Berwick, Roxburgh, and Edinburgh.

Amongst the distinguished men connected with the abbey was Ralph Strode, a friend of Geoffrey Chaucer and John Wiclif. He devoted himself

to philosophic studies, and was the author of several works. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Andrew Forman was superior of Dryburgh, a man much occupied with affairs of Church and State under James IV. and V. He was appointed, in 1501, to the Bishopric of Moray, and held at the same time the priories of Coldingham and Pittenweem, and the Commendatorship of Dryburgh. Afterwards he became Archbishop of Brouges, and finally Archbishop of St. Andrews.

Lying, as the abbey did, in the path of the invaders from the South, it received many unfriendly visits, and suffered much at the hands of

the English. In 1322 the monastery received a destructive visit from Edward II. on his return from an unsuccessful invasion of Scotland. His army camped in the grounds of the abbey, and next morning set it on fire, when great damage was done. Large contributions were received from Robert I. for the repairs of the damage thus caused.

The buildings were again destroyed, in 1385, by Richard II. on his retreat from Scotland, on which occasion he likewise burnt the abbeys of Melrose and Newbotle. In 1544 the edifice once more suffered at the hands of Lord Eure, when the fittings were carried off.

The abbacy was held _in commendam_ from the beginning of the sixteenth century, and, in 1587, it was annexed to the Crown. Finally, it was erected into a temporal barony, with the title of Lord Cardross, in favour of the Earl of Mar, from whom it has passed, by purchase, through the hands of several proprietors.[196]

The monastery (Fig. 410) has consisted of the usual buildings surrounding the cloister, having the church on the north side, standing about ten steps above the level of the cloister garth. The sacristy, chapter house, fratery, and other apartments stretch from the transept southwards along the east side; and above these, on the upper floor, were the dormitories, entering by an open staircase from the south transept, in a similar manner to the dormitories at Pluscardine, Melrose, &c. Along the south side of the cloisters lay the refectory, which, owing to the slope of the ground, was raised on a basement floor of vaulted cellars. On the west side of the cloister garth there are now only a few vaulted cellars. A small stream runs along on the south-west side of the monastic buildings, and beyond the stream are the remains of what seems to have been a detached chapel.

The oldest portions of the structure are those forming the eastern range (Fig. 411), which, from their style of architecture, are evidently of transition date, or about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The sacristy is 28 feet long by 13 feet wide. It has a stone bench round the walls and three steps in the floor. There is a door from the transept and an outer semicircular-headed doorway of transition character from the cloister (Fig. 412.) Access is also obtained by a small door in the north side to a wheel-stair leading to the upper floors, and visible as a projecting turret at the south-east angle of the transept (see Fig. 412).

The east window of the sacristy is remarkable, having two round-headed windows, surmounted by a visica-formed aperture (see Fig. 411).

The sacristy has a piscina in the south wall near the east end.

The apartment next the sacristy is 28 feet long by 11 feet wide. It has now been appropriated as a mausoleum, but may have originally been a parlour. There is an ambry in the south wall near the east end. The doorway is semicircular, and of Norman character (see Fig. 412).

The east window is plain, and consists of two round-headed openings enclosed in a large semicircle (see Fig. 411). The above two apartments are on the level of the cloisters; but the floor of the chapter house, which is next in order, is several feet below the level of the cloister walk.

The ordinary central doorway and side windows opening from the cloister (see Fig. 412) are, however, placed in their usual position on the level of the cloister walk. The door is thus some five feet above the floor, and if the doorway was used for access to the chapter house, it must have been provided with a stair down, of which there is now no trace. The

side openings were unglazed, and were used for seeing and listening to what was proceeding in the chapter house below.

The doorway (Fig. 413) is large and deeply recessed, having three shafts on the sloping ingoing, and plain mouldings above in the round arch, divided into several orders. The jambs and arch over them are enriched with a bold dog-tooth moulding. The outer arches of the windows on each side of the doorway are plain semicircles, filled in with two pointed lights, having a central shaft.

The chapter house is 48 feet in length by 23 feet in width, and retains its round barrel vault (Fig. 414), which is about 20 feet in height. It has three pointed windows in the east end (see Fig. 411) and two similar windows in the side walls, where the chapter house projects beyond the general line of the buildings. In the interior a round arched arcade runs along the east side, supported on single shafts, and there are traces of a similar arcade having run round the side walls. There is an entrance doorway in the south wall, which is probably not original, and the approach to it has been modernised. The east gable wall over the chapter house still exists (see Fig. 411.) It has simple flat buttresses of a Norman type at the angles and between the windows, but the pointed arches indicate transition work.

Amongst the fragments of carved work preserved in the chapter house is that shown in Fig. 415. It represents the pascal lamb slain,

and is surrounded by a wreath of foliage, above which are the letters I H S. The vine leaves flowing from the lamb may represent the branches springing from the true vine.

To the south of the chapter house is a large apartment, 50 feet in length by 23 feet wide. It has been vaulted at a late period, and the vaulting shafts still remain attached to the east, west, and south walls. Their details are of the third pointed period. There is a fireplace in the centre of the west wall, and an outer doorway at the south end of the same wall. The apartment was lighted by three plain round arched windows in the east wall, one of which has had tracery inserted in after times. At the north-west angle, opening from the level of the cloister, there is a round-headed doorway, and traces of a staircase, which doubtless served as the day access to the dormitory. The large apartment just described was probably the fratery or monks’ day room. This is the more likely from its having a fireplace, where the monks might warm themselves

in cold weather. At the south-east angle of the room, and in the thickness of the wall, a narrow staircase leads up to where the dormitories were situated. South of the fratery is the slype or passage 10 feet in width, with arched openings to the east and west. It has also a doorway to the fratery, and another to the apartment on the south side. The latter now only exists in part, the south end of the range having been destroyed.

The range of buildings above described still retains its eastern wall to the full height of two stories (see Fig. 411), the upper story being, doubtless, the dormitory. The wall is all built in a simple early style, with flat buttresses between the windows, and the latter are plain round-headed openings, with a single recessed order. The hood mould is in some cases carved with a notch ornament.

On the south side of the cloister, where the refectory once stood, there

are now only the ruins of the vaulted basement on which it stood. At the east end of this range there is a doorway from the cloister giving access to a staircase, which led down to the lower level of the fratery, &c. The remainder of the south side was probably all occupied by the refectory,

which would thus be about 77 feet in length by 27 feet in width. The west wall is almost all that survives. It is ivy clad, and contains a picturesque circular window, with radiating tracery (Fig. 416). Adjoining

this wall in the south-west angle of the cloister there is an arched recess in the west wall, apparently intended for a tomb and monument; but it is empty. Over the doorway in this angle is a large shield (Fig. 417),

which contains the arms of John Stewart, who was commendator in 1555. On the shield are the initials “J. S.,” with the crozier in the centre. He was brother of the Earl of Lennox, and uncle to Lord Darnley, who married Queen Mary. The arms are those of the Stewarts of Lennox.

The cloister occupies a space of 93 feet by 91 feet. It has been surrounded by a vaulted walk, which has entirely disappeared. It is evident that the cloister walk was at least partly vaulted from the small remains of the springing of the vaults which are visible in the eastern wall on each side of the doorway to the chapter house (see Fig. 413). From the way in which these springings die away to nothing against the wall, without corbel or support of any kind, it is apparent that the vaulting must have been of a late date. The corbels which supported the top of the wooden roof over the vaulting are also still visible in the east wall.

The south wall of the nave of the church extends along the north side of the cloister. At the north-east angle is the doorway which led from the cloister into the nave. It is a handsome specimen of the transition style, having a circular arched head deeply recessed in four or five orders, springing from three shafts, and two moulded members in the jambs. It is noteworthy regarding this doorway that the two inner orders of the jambs and arch had been removed and erected in private grounds, and, after many years’ absence, were restored to their original position only a short time ago.

The nave of the church is entered through this handsome doorway by ten steps up from the cloister. It presents a scene of terrible destruction. All the piers of the nave are demolished, and only slight traces of the north wall remain; of the south wall, more is preserved. The west end wall (Fig. 418), however, has to some extent escaped destruction, and shows by the responds attached to it the form of the nave piers, with their caps and bases. The position of the piers along the nave is now roughly indicated by a collection of fragments arranged, as nearly as possible, in the original position and form. The mouldings indicate a late date, and were, doubtless, restorations; but the responds, which were not so liable to destruction, are of first pointed date. The responds which form part of the west wall show that there was a central nave 28 feet wide and side aisles, each about 13 feet 6 inches wide, making a total width of 55 feet. There have been side chapels in the nave, apparently divided by walls, some portions of which remain, with ambries in the chapels.

The western doorway (Fig. 419) has a round arched head, but its details show that it is of late design. This part of the edifice has apparently been restored in the fifteenth century, after the destruction of the abbey by Richard II. in the end of the fourteenth century.

The transept has a slight projection to the north and south. It is 80 feet in length internally from north to south and 37 feet in width, including an eastern aisle.

This part of the building and all to the east of it are evidently of

thirteenth century work, but, unfortunately, only a few detached portions remain. These include (see Fig. 412) the very picturesque gable of the south transept, with its large window filled with simple pointed tracery, rising in steps above the roof of the dormitory (Fig. 420). The arch through which the stair to the dormitory passed is visible in this wall. (See Fig. 420.)

To the east of the transept is a choir of two bays, with aisles, beyond which is an aisleless presbytery, 42 feet long by 24 feet wide, now almost reduced to foundations. The buttresses and base course are traceable, and a doorway in the north-east angle, which probably led to a small staircase. The portion of the structure still preserved to the north is a part of the north transept wall, with the eastern aisle of the transept and the two north bays of the choir (Fig. 421).

These portions are of very beautiful design, both internally and externally. The exterior (Fig. 422) is of very simple, but elegant, first pointed work, while the interior shows symptoms of somewhat more advanced design. The angle pier of the crossing and the piers of the choir consist of round shafts with fillets, divided by square angles. These are surmounted by moulded caps, with round abacus and first pointed mouldings. From these spring the pier arches, composed of three orders of plain splays, with hood moulding. Over the main arches is a low triforium marked by string courses above and below. It has flat arched openings filled in with circles having six cusps.