Part 5

Besides being a good market-woman, the housekeeper ought to be ready at figures, and to understand the nature of common accounts, as it will generally be her business to keep the detailed accounts of the family, to examine the tradesmen’s bills by the checks, to pay them, and pay for all miscellaneous articles as they are brought in, for which vouchers must be given, to be produced when the account is settled; and to avoid the possibility of mistake, this should be done weekly, or at short and stated periods; for this purpose, a book must be kept, in which entry should immediately be made, of all monies paid, and in the evening, the book should be cast up, and compared with the cash in hand, by which means, any omission that might have taken place in the course of the day may easily be recollected and set right, and the account will be ready for inspection when called for.

The elegant and tasteful arrangement of the table is a very essential object in every Establishment; and when that department devolves on the housekeeper, will require her very serious consideration; as much of the credit and respectability of the family will depend on her.—Economy, taste, and tact must necessarily be displayed, and its execution involves much judgment, great attention, and unceasing assiduity. In order to have a table well served, and tastefully arranged, the skill and ingenuity of the cook, as well as the housekeeper, will be required—of the cook to dress it according to the _fashion_, and of the housekeeper, afterwards, to see that it be dished and served up according to the present _costume_.[8]

The etiquette of the table being arranged by the _bill of fare_, previously made out, and the dishes laid in order below stairs; it is the province of the housekeeper, when dinner is served up, to see that the butler has placed them properly on the table above; this requires a quick glance of the eye, and a correct taste to measure distances,—and to see that the dishes accord with each other, and thereby form a pleasing, inviting, and well-grouped picture.[9]

The housekeeper will employ the little leisure time she may have before the servants’ dinner hour, which in most families is generally early, in preparing the best pastry, or in doing any other things she can assist in, preparatory to the family dinner; at any rate, she will look around and see that the household business is, every where, going on regularly, and the culinary preparations getting forward. She then takes her seat at the head of the table, in the steward’s, or her own room, with the principal female servants and the men not in livery. In this situation she will have to carve, and as she will occasionally be required to assist the cook in dissecting a dish to be sent up stairs, it is indispensably necessary that she be proficient in the art of carving: and besides, to carve meat well, is a great saving.[10] It would argue prudence and economy in her, to see that the pieces of bread which are brought down stairs, be eaten at this table, or in the servants’-hall, and it would be extravagance to suffer _new_ bread to be eaten below stairs.

When the dinner is gone up, her attention will be directed to the _dessert_, which she prepares and lays out in her own room, previous to the removal of the cloth above stairs; when she makes her appearance with it, and arranges it on the dining-room table.

The Housekeeper now begins to find herself at leisure; by this time too, the maids will have done the principal part of their work above stairs, and the cook, kitchen-maid, and scullion, have washed up, and cleared away every thing, and cleaned up the kitchen.—After tea, the provident housekeeper will begin to think about _to-morrow_; evening being the best time for preparing all things that are likely to be wanted soon.—Small quantities of spices should be pounded and ground, and laid by in bottles, well corked, ready for use.—Much less spices are necessary, in gravies, &c. when thus prepared, than when boiled whole.—Raisins may be stoned, if wanted next day.—Currants may be washed, picked, and perfectly dried. White sugars should be broken, or pounded, rolled with a bottle, and sifted. Some of the oranges and lemons, to be used for juice, should be pared, and the rind put by to dry; and of some, when squeezed, and the pulp scraped out, the rinds may be kept dry for grating.

[The Salary of the Housekeeper is from twenty-five to fifty guineas per annum, dependent on the extent of the family, and the nature of the business she undertakes.]

_Useful Memorandums._

Provisions that will keep, should be laid in in quantities when cheapest, to be ready when wanted.—The best of all kinds are the most economical, not only because they _are best_, but also, because they go furthest.

As sugar is an article of considerable expense, it is to be understood that, of the _white_ sugars, the most refined goes furthest and sweetens best. Chuse those that are close, heavy, and shining.—The best sorts of the _brown_ have a bright gravelly look. The coarser sorts are strongest and fittest for wines, sweetmeats, &c.

The only certain road to regularity, is to do every thing in its proper time—keep every thing in its proper place—and apply every thing to its proper use.

The great Dutch statesman, De Witt, attributed the whole art of dispatching a multitude of business, to the _doing of one thing at a time_.

The want of regularity gives to families the appearance of chance and confusion; on the contrary, order in a family is productive of much happiness.

Accustom all the servants under your direction to _rise early_, and let them breakfast at an early hour. If orders be given betimes in the morning, there will be more time to execute them,—servants will perform their work with more ease,—and less hands will be required. If the economy of time were duly considered, and a regular plan of daily employment laid down, much business may be effected without hurry or fatigue.

As some preparation is necessary in all families for accidental visitors, care should be taken to have things in readiness for lunch, chocolate, sandwiches, &c.

An inventory of furniture, linen, china, plate, &c. should be kept, and the articles examined by it twice a year, at least, or oftener if the servants be changed, and a correct list of the articles delivered into the care of the new servants should be kept.—House-cloths, knife-cloths, &c. should be numbered, and always be accounted for, either whole or in part—which would be done if a note were inserted at the top of the list of the articles delivered out.

Tin fenders, and other things that are painted, should be painted every year or two.—Tin vessels, if suffered to become damp, soon rust, and are eaten into holes.

The best way to scald fruits or to boil vinegar is, to put it in a stone jar on an iron hearth—or to put the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, called a _water bath_.

THE STORE-ROOM AND STILL-ROOM.

These rooms are entirely under the management of the housekeeper. The STORE-ROOM is appropriated as a depository for such imperishable articles of household consumption as are in continual request, and may be laid up, when purchased in quantities,—at times when cheapest,—most in season, or best—to be ready at hand when wanted.

☞ Let every thing, not only here, but all over the house, be kept in its _proper place_, applied to its _proper use_, and _replaced_ when worn out or destroyed.

_N. B. To save the trouble of referring to different places, for the several methods of storing or preserving many articles which are proper to be kept, we shall insert under this head every thing of this description that may occur to us._

SOAP will be the better for keeping—indeed, it should not be used when newly made. The cakes should be cut with a wire or string, into oblong squares, and laid up, on a dry shelf, a little distance apart, and across each other, so as to admit the air betwixt them, to harden it.—This method will save one third. _Note_,—If dried fast, soap will crack and break when wetted.

CANDLES and SOAP made in cold weather, are best; and when the price of these articles are likely to be high, a reasonable stock of both should be laid in.—Candles, if kept packed in a chest, will be the better for keeping eight or ten months, and may be kept well, if necessary, for two years.

STARCH should be bought when flour is cheap, and may be kept in a dry warm place, if closely covered, as long as may be necessary.

LOAF SUGARS should be kept tied up in paper, and hung up in a dry place. Brown sugars should be kept covered up, and in a moderately dry place.

SWEETMEATS, PRESERVES, &c. must be carefully kept from the air, and in a very dry place.

TEAS, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, DRIED FRUITS, and generally, all kinds of Grocery and Condiments require to be kept dry and free from air.

The various kinds of SEEDS and RICE, PEARL-BARLEY, OATMEAL, &c. must be kept in a dry place, and be _covered close_, to preserve them from insects.

BREAD is best kept in an earthern pan with a cover. A loaf should not be cut till it is a day old. The bread that is cut unnecessarily in the parlour, should be eaten at the second table before more is cut.

Writing and other papers, that are constantly wanted, should be bought by the ream or bundle, and kept in a dry place.

APPLES should be spread, separately, on clean dry straw, on a dry upper floor, and care must be taken to preserve them from frost.—The Americans throw a clean canvas cloth over them, which will answer the purpose.

PEARS should be hung up, singly, by the stalk in a dry place.

GRAPES should be gathered before they are ripe, and may also be preserved hung up in single bunches the same way;—or they may be kept in saw-dust, in boxes with covers, to exclude the air—Every bunch being laid apart.

ORANGES and LEMONS, if bought when cheapest, may be preserved a long time, packed in fine, dried sand, with their stems upwards, and kept from the influence of the air.

FRESH MEAT, POULTRY, FISH, &c. should be kept in a cool, airy place.

All SALTED and DRIED MEATS, hams, tongues, &c. should be tied up in strong paper, and must be kept in a cold, dry place, (not in the kitchen) else they will become musty and rancid.

GREEN VEGETABLES should be kept on a damp stone floor, and excluded from the air by a damp cloth thrown over them.

CARROTS, PARSNIPS, and BEET-ROOTS, must be kept in layers of dry sand for winter use. Neither these nor potatoes should be washed till wanted.

POTATOES must be carefully covered, to protect them from frost, in winter.

ONIONS should be tied in traces, and hung up in a cold dry place. If the root of each onion be seared, it can never grow.

PARSLEY should be cut close to the root, and dried in a warm room.

TRUFFLES, MORELS, &c. must be kept in bags in a dry place.

A bag should be kept to save all the waste rags; this will not only be economical, but will prevent litter.

☞ For the management of SAVOURY and SWEET HERBS, see Vegetables, p. 87.

THE STILL-ROOM MAID.

The business of this servant is to wait on and assist the housekeeper; not only in the distillation of aromatic waters, spirits, and oils,—in the making of essences, perfumery, &c. but also, in the making of pickles, preserves, pastry, and confectionary; in making coffee, &c. to go up stairs; in washing up the china; in the management and arrangement of the STORE-ROOM; and whatever else she may have to employ her in.

[Wages from eight to twelve guineas per annum.]

THE ART OF CARVING.

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The art of carving is an useful and elegant accomplishment; and, according to the fashion of the present day, cannot be too well understood by the _Heads of Families_. It may best be acquired by observation and practice; and to _Young Ladies_ who can attend to the example of their parents, the following plain and familiar instructions may not be unacceptable.—A previous knowledge of the conformation of the several parts, and the peculiar nature of the article to be carved, will, with due attention, render the business easy, and it would be still more so, if the loins, breasts, and necks of mutton, lamb, and veal, were to be _properly jointed_ and divided, before they are sent home.

The master and mistress of the family, who do _The honours of the table_, when dinner is announced, will see, of course, that the upper places are taken by the married ladies of the highest quality that are then present; the dowagers or widows next, and lastly, the unmarried ladies; all, nearly according to their respective ages. The gentlemen will be seated according to the same etiquette, which is perfectly understood by the fashionable world.[11]

BEEF.—_The Surloin._ This joint is brought to table with the skin side upwards—Cut off the outside, in the direction of the ribs, quite down to the bone, and take off slice after slice of a moderate thickness, in the same direction.—Or, you may cut through the middle of the sirloin. Give a little of the soft fat with each slice, which will be found covering the roll, on the inside. Give also, a little of the roll, when preferred, as it is short-grained and tender. To get at this and the fat, turn the joint up, upon the chine-bone, and cut it across the ribs.

_The Ribs_ are to be carved exactly in the same way.

_The Edge-bone_ or _isch (hip)_ bone. Cut off a _thick_ outside slice from the upper surface, the whole length, horizontally, and follow the cut. The delicious soft fat, resembling marrow, will be found at the back of the bone, and the hard fat may be taken, in thin, horizontal slices, from the edge of the joint. The upper part of this joint is the richest and best.

_The Buttock_ is to be carved in the same way.

_The Breast-cut._—Cut off thin slices, either parallel with the ribs, or across. The fat on the upper side is firm and gristly, that on the under side soft, and more delicate; therefore offer that which is best liked.

VEAL.—_The Fillet._ This is the joint similar to a round of beef. Cut off a slice from the upper surface, evenly, as from a round or edge-bone of beef, and this outside is often preferred. The next slices should be cut thin and smoothly. With every slice give a little fat, and some of the stuffing, which lies under the flap.

_The Breast._ Separate the ribs from the brisket, across, where the bones are broken, and again, the gristly part of the breast-cut from the ribs, in the same direction. Give some of the gristly part, with a bone of the ribs or neck, and a little of the sweetbread, cut across the middle, to each person.

_The Calf’s-head._ Every part of this joint is rich and delicious. Cut it lengthwise, from the nose to the neck, passing the knife through the flesh under the eye, quite to the bone, all the way. The throat sweetbread lies in the thick part of the neck end, and delicious short slices of it may be taken off from the lower side, crosswise, to be given with the former. The eye is esteemed a great delicacy and may be taken out with the point of a knife, and divided into two parts. Some fine lean will be found under the jaw-bone, when taken off, and the palate in the lower or under part of the head is deemed a dainty. Both sides of the head are to be carved alike. A part of the tongue and brains, which are usually served up in a separate dish, with egg sauce, must be given to each person.

MUTTON.—_The Shoulder._ This joint should be sent to table with the back upwards, and with paper twisted round the shank. When properly roasted, it is very full of gravy, and has many nice parts. The first cut should be made in the thin, hollow part, and several slices may be taken thence. When that is all cut away, some fine slices may be taken from both sides of the ridge of the blade-bone, cutting straight up the back from the thick end towards the shank. The under side affords several nice cuts of fat and lean intermixed, and is full of gravy. Some prefer the jelly part near the knuckle;—the lean on the under side of the blade-bone, is the most tender. The fat lies in the round prominent part or flap, opposite the hollow part of the shoulder, which is cut lengthwise and a thin bit of this should be given to each person.—A shoulder of mutton _over_ roasted is _spoiled_.

_The Leg._ When boiled, it should be served up lying on its back; but when roasted, with the back upwards. Cut into the hollow part a little distant from the knuckle, through the pope’s-eye, quite to the bone, and take out thin deep slices towards the thickest part. The back of the leg affords some nice slices at the thick end, which must be cut out the long way of the joint.—Slices of fat may also be taken from the under side, or back part of the leg, in the same direction. Some prefer the knuckle part, which, though dry, is full of jelly and very nutricious. The cramp-bone forms a slight prominence at the back of the leg, near the shank, and may be cut out by passing the knife round it. As this is a heavy joint, some writing paper should be wrapped round the shank, to enable the carver the better to turn it up, with his left hand.

_The Haunch_, is to be carved in the same manner as venison.

_The Saddle_, is the two loins together. Cut out long thin slices on each side of the chine-bone, from the tail to the end. If any person like a part of the tail, it may be readily divided, the joints being about an inch apart. Rich gravy is found in the cut along the chine-bone, where the incision has been made.

_The Loin_ may be carved the same way; or it may be cut the other way, in the direction of the bones.

LAMB.—_The Fore-quarter._ Separate the shoulder from the ribs or breast, (by some called the crust or scoven,) taking care not to leave the bones bare. Then squeeze half a lemon or Seville orange, rub a slice of butter, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the ribs, and replace the shoulder for a few moments; after which, put the shoulder on another dish; and proceed to divide the neck from the breast, where the bones have been previously broken; then separate the gristly part from the breast, the whole length, and give a little of the gristle with each bone of the breast or neck, as may be chosen. If any part of the breast is to be put by to be eaten cold, let it be sprinkled while hot, with chopped parsley. All parts of young lamb are nice, but the shoulder of a fore-quarter is the least approved. It is to be carved as mutton.

_The Hind-quarter_, is usually divided into the leg and loin, and is to be carved as mutton. The close firm flesh about the knuckle is reckoned the best.

PORK.—_The Leg_, whether roasted or boiled, is sent to table with the back upwards, like a leg of mutton roasted: it is to be carved as mutton.

A HAM may be carved three several ways; viz. The _first_ and most common way is to cut off the hock, and then to take off thin slices, in a circular manner, round the bone, towards the thick part and proceed as with venison. This is the most economical way.

The _second_ way is to cut a round hole in the top of the ham with a sharp pointed knife, and to enlarge the circle by cutting out thin slices. This is a good way, as it keeps the meat moist, and preserves the gravy.

The _other_ way is, to cut across, near the middle of the ham, quite down to the bone, and then to take off thin slices each way.

TONGUE.—A tongue is to be cut _across_ towards the thickest end; slices taken from that part, both ways, are the most tender and juicy; towards the tip of the tongue, the meat is hardest and dryest. For the fat and kernel, cut off a slice from the lower side of the root.

SUCKING PIG.—The head and collar is usually cut off, and the carcase slit down the back into two equal parts; the head being also divided and laid at each end, and the ears on each side. But if the pig be sent up whole, before any one be helped, the shoulders and legs should be separated from the body, and the ribs divided into two or more parts; the shoulders may each be divided into two or more parts, also; and nice slices may be taken from the gammon and fleshy parts. The ribs are very delicious, but the collar and neck are most esteemed; the chaps are also much approved by many.

VENISON.—_The Haunch._ First make a deep incision across, down to the bone, towards the knuckle end, to let out the gravy; then turn the broad end towards you, and take off thinnish deep slices, _lengthwise_, from the cross cut to the end. The fat, which is the most delicious part, lies, as in a shoulder of mutton, in the round prominent part, which, when the broad end is towards you, will be on the left side. Give some of this, and also some of the gravy, with each slice.

HARE.—The best and readiest way to cut up a hare, is to put the point of the knife under the point of the shoulder, and cut all the way down to the rump, on both sides of the back at equal distances from the back-bone, dividing the body into three parts; the middle or back may then be cut across the spine, into four or more pieces. These are by far the most tender and delicate, and the fullest of gravy. The shoulders or wings must be taken off in a circular direction, and the legs may be easily separated from the belly. The shoulders and legs may each be divided. The pieces of the back, and the fleshy parts of the shoulders and legs, should be given with a spoonful of the stuffing and gravy to those most respected. This method can only be practised when the Hare is young. If it be old, do not endeavour to divide it lengthwise, but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a turn inwards, at the joint, which you must try to hit.—A nice cut or two may then be taken from each side of the back-bone;—then divide the back into parts, and take off the wings, which are called the sportsman’s pieces. When all are helped, cut off the head, and separate the ears, close to the roots, which some may approve; then with your knife divide the upper from the lower jaw, and laying the upper one flat on your plate, enter the point of your knife in the centre near the back of the skull, and divide it in two. The head and brains are liked by some.

RABBIT.—A rabbit is to be carved as a hare in the latter way; but it being smaller, the body may be divided into fewer parts, and the head, the ears having been taken off, may be given, to any one who likes it.