Part 6

GOOSE.—A goose, fowl, turkey, pheasant, and partridge, are to be cut up nearly alike. First cut off the apron of the goose, and pour into the body a glass of port wine, and the gravy, well mixed with a large teaspoonful of ready made mustard; then turn the neck towards you, and cut the whole breast into long slices quite down to the bone, and take them off; turn the goose upon one side, and proceed to take off the leg, by putting the fork through the small end of the bone, and pressing it close to the body, which will raise the leg from the body and shew the direction in which the knife may be passed, in order to separate it; this may then be done by turning it back, but if it be an old bird, it will require some strength. To take off the wing, pass the fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body, then enter the knife at the point of the wing, and divide the joint (which requires some practice to hit cleverly) and separate it from the side. Next take off the merry-thought, at the neck end, across the body, and where it joins the body, on each side, you will find the joint of the neck bones, then put in the knife, and pass it the longest part of the bone, when you will lift it up and break it off from the breast bone, to which it is attached. All parts being thus separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back by cutting through the tender ribs on each side from one end to the other. Then lay the back upwards, fix your fork under the rump, and pressing the edge of your knife hard across the back, lift up the rump, and the body will divide into two parts. The rump part may then be divided into three, cutting it lengthwise through the bones on each side of the back, and taking off the side-bones. It is not always necessary to cut up the whole goose, at once, but as you proceed, the breast may be distributed, the fleshy parts of the wings, when disjointed from the pinions, and the thigh parts of the legs, (the drum sticks being taken off), may next be given, remembering to draw out the sage and onions, gravy, &c. from the inside, and give a spoonful on each plate. The neck-bone and merry-thought are approved by some, and others approve different parts of the carcase, which are very savoury.

A GREEN GOOSE must be cut up the same way; and the best parts are the breast, and the gristle at the lower end of it.

FOWL.—Fowls, whether roasted or boiled, are to be cut up alike. The best way is to take the bird on your plate, and sticking your fork into the breast, upright, cut of slices, down the breast on each side, as long as you can; then proceed to take off the legs, by passing the knife between the legs and the body from the upper part of the thigh towards the rump. Next take off the wings by entering your knife at the point of the shoulder, and with your fork lift up the pinion and drawing the wing towards you, by which means it will separate very nicely without cutting. After this, take off the merry-thought, the neck-bones, and all the remaining parts, as described in the goose. The prime parts of a fowl are the wings, breast, and merry-thought: the legs are coarse dry, and of a darker colour, except those of a chick, which are full of gravy and most esteemed. The drum-sticks should be cut off from the legs of the fowl at the joint, when given.

TURKEY.—A turkey is to be dissected as a fowl or goose, but it has no merry-thought. The white meats of a Turkey are best. The gizzard is sometimes scored in different directions, and when salted and peppered, it is sent down to be broiled; is divided into several parts, and sent round to the company as a _bonne bouche_.

PHEASANT.—This bird is to be carved the same way as a fowl, first cutting off the head. The best parts of the pheasant are the breast, wings, and merry-thought; but the leg has a higher flavour. The head is sometimes preferred, because of the brains.

PARTRIDGE.—Partridges are to be carved as fowls.—The prime parts, as of nearly all birds, are the white meats; viz. the wings (the tip of which is reckoned the most delicious morsel,) the breast, and merry-thought.

PIGEONS.—Pigeons are generally divided into two parts, to do which there are several ways; the most fashionable of which is, to cut from the top of the leg on each side, quite through and across the body to the breast bone.

FISH,—in general, requires but little carving.

_A Cod’s head._ The thick fleshy part on the back and shoulders, close to the head, is most esteemed, but many parts of the jowl are very delicious, particularly those about the jaw-bones, which consist of a fine jelly. The tongue, palate, and firm parts about the back-bone on the shoulders are also considered as dainties.

Take off a large piece across the shoulders, close to the head, and quite through to the back-bone, this will lay bare the sound, which is under the back-bone, some of which should be taken out with a spoon, and given with every slice. Care must be taken to preserve the beautifully fine flakes of this fish entire.

SALMON and all other fish that have a short grain, should be cut with the slices the long way of the fish, and not across. The belly part is the richest and most esteemed of salmon, but the head, and particularly the jowl, afford many rich and delicate bits, which are much prized.

DIRECTIONS FOR MARKETING.[12]

[_We presume that the following will be found to be the best instructions on this important subject that have ever yet appeared in print._]

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BUTCHERS’ MEAT.

_General observations respecting it._

☞ _The best of every kind of provision is cheapest, affords most nourishment, and goes farthest._

As this is the most nourishing of all animal food, and constitutes a considerable portion of our constant aliment, a knowledge, not only of the nature and properties of the several kinds of animals destined for our use, but also of the manner in which they have been bred and fed, would be very essential if to be obtained, as it would enable us to judge of their wholesomeness, and their fitness for our healthful support and nourishment.

The flesh of cattle, of all kinds, fatted in confined and filthy places, on oil-cakes, or rank and half-decayed vegetables, should be rejected, as unfit for use. On the contrary, those animals which have been bred and pastured in open situations, on high lands, extensive downs, dry commons, heaths, and large enclosures, where the air is pure, and particularly where the grass is short and sweet, and where they require much exercise to obtain their sustenance, have their juices pure, their flavour excellent, and the texture of their flesh delicate, nutritive, and wholesome. Hence the superiority of the Welch and South Down mutton, the Scotch and Welch beef, &c. This fact is clearly evinced in the superior qualities that venison, and the flesh of all wild animals possess over that of tame ones.

Buttocks of beef, fillets of veal, and legs of mutton and lamb, as they have most solid meat and least bone, in proportion, are best for large families.

The most economical way for marketing, is to buy what roasting and boiling pieces you want in one lot. Butchers will sell quantities, thus assorted, much cheaper than they will sell single joints; and prime roasting joints, when bought alone, are always charged extravagantly.

Beef and mutton, of a proper age, is more easy of digestion, and more nutritious, than veal and lamb. The same remark holds with respect to pork; for though young pigs are fat and luscious, yet they are not so nutritive as those of more mature age. The heart and other viscera of animals are nutritious, but hard to digest. Pork is a strong meat, but that which is fed at dairies, is mildest and best. Fat meat is not so easy of digestion as the flesh of well fed animals, though not so fat. The flesh of old animals is dry and hard of digestion, and affords but little nourishment.

BEEF.

_Instructions for choosing it._

An ox is in its prime, for food, at five or six years old.

BEEF is never out of season, but it is in the _greatest perfection_ in November, December, and January.

The lean of the finest ox-beef, if of a proper age, has a fine smooth grain, it is of a bright or carnation red, feels tender, and appears to be marled or intermixed with fat. The fat parts are firm, of a cream colour, and rather white than yellow. This latter distinction is of importance, because, if the beef be old, the fat will be yellow and skinny; and if the ox has been unnaturally fed, or in a confined place, and particularly if it has been fed with oil-cake, it will be very yellow, soft, flabby, and greasy. On the other hand, if the beef be too young, the fat will be white, almost like mutton fat, and the lean will be of a pale colour.

The grain of _cow-beef_ is closer than that of the ox, and the lean is of a darker red.

_Heifer-beef_ has all the appearances and qualities of good ox-beef, except that the grain of the lean is of a finer texture.

_Bull-beef_ is coarser and redder than any other, the fat hard and skinny, and it has a strong, rank smell.

_The_ JOINTS OF BEEF, _according to the London method of cutting_.

The best joints are the sirloin, rump, edge-bone, buttock, and the five or six fore-ribs; and the thin-flank, the sticking-piece, the leg, shin, and cheek, are the worst.

VEAL.

_Instructions for choosing it._

Veal is _best_ and _cheapest_ from _March_ to _July_.

Veal ought to be fine in the grain, firm, white, and fat. The leg bone should be small. If fresh, the eyes will be full and bright, the flesh not clammy but dry, and the large vein of the shoulder of a bright red. The kidney taints soonest, and if that be sweet, and neither soft nor slimy, the whole calf is fresh. On the contrary, if any part of the flesh be green or yellow, or feels flabby, it is stale. The fillet of a cow-calf is preferable on account of the udder, but the meat of the bull-calf is generally firmest, whitest, and best, when dressed. The finest calves have the smallest kidneys.

THE JOINTS OF VEAL.

A shoulder is the fore-knuckle and blade-bone together; and a leg is the fillet and hind-knuckle together.

The best end of the loin, the fillet, and the best end of the breast, are the choicest pieces: the knuckle, and scrag end of the neck, are the worst.

MUTTON.

_Instructions for choosing it._

MUTTON is _best_ from _Christmas_ to _Midsummer_.

When, if in its prime, (that is about four years of age,) it will feel tender when pinched with the finger and thumb, but if older, it will feel harder and fibrous. The grain of the lean should be a fine deep red, the colour bright, and the fat firm and white. Wether mutton is the best flavoured, and may be known by a prominent lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part. Ewe mutton is paler than wether mutton, is of a finer texture and of less value; ram mutton is strong flavoured, high coloured, and its fat is spungy.

The mutton of the small Welch sheep, which are driven up, and fatted on Banstead Heath, and the mutton bred and fed on the South Downs, in Sussex, are the most esteemed in London. At Bath, the short-shanked Dorsetshire, and the Lansdown mutton are most in request; in Yorkshire and the northern counties, the Moor mutton; and in Norfolk and Suffolk the long-shanked is most approved; but the sheep bred in the Fens and deep lands of Lincolnshire, and that neighbourhood, are large, coarse-grained, and ill-flavoured.—Mutton tastes strong of the coat in May and June, or just before shearing.

THE JOINTS OF MUTTON.

LAMB.

_Instructions for choosing it._

Lamb, like veal, is fresh when the eyes are full and bright, and the vein in the neck is of a fine blue colour; but if it be green or yellow, or if there be a faint smell about the kidney, it is stale. The earliest house-lamb, in London, is from the Dorsetshire ewes, which are sold in great numbers at Weyhill-Fair, on the 10th of October, whence they are driven towards London, quite forward, frequently dropping their lambs on the road. This comes in at or before Christmas, and is generally cut into quarters. Grass-lamb comes into season about Easter, and when large and plentiful is cut up in joints, like mutton.

PORK.

_Directions for choosing it._

The rind of all pork should be thin, and if young and properly fed, the lean will break when pinched, and will be smooth and of a delicate white; the fat will be white and fine, and the joints will look blue; but if the rind be tough and loose, or thick and hard, and the joints look red, it is old. If the flesh be clammy it is stale. The knuckle part taints first. When measles are seen in the fat, the meat is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. A pig is in its prime at two years old.

THE JOINTS OF PORK.

BACON.

The rind of good bacon is always thin, the fat firm and white, or rather inclined to a pink tinge, and the lean is of a bright red, tender and adhering close to the bone. If there be any appearance of yellow, it is rusty. The Wiltshire and Hampshire bacon is best, but the Yorkshire is much esteemed. Irish bacon is, in general, bad; but this article is now so re-manufactured in London, as to resemble, in appearance, the most beautiful Wiltshire bacon.

HAMS.—The Westphalia or bear’s hams, are the best; but the Westmorland, Wiltshire, and Yorkshire are the most desirable, of the English curing. Choose these latter short in the shank; and to know whether they are good, thrust a picked-pointed knife under the bone, and if it comes out clean and sweet, the ham is good, otherwise it is not.

GAME.

VENISON is chosen by its fat, which should be thick, clear, and bright. A knife stuck in under the shoulder or shank will shew whether it be sweet. If venison looks green, or approaching to black, it is stale.

The _Joints_ of Venison are only four; viz. The haunch, neck, breast, and shoulder.

HARES.—The claws of a young hare are smooth and sharp, the ears are tender and will easily tear, and the cleft of the lip is narrow; but the claws of an old hare are blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, and the cleft of the lip is wide, and the haunch is thick.—If fresh the body will be stiff. A hare is best when kept ten days or a fortnight, which, in favourable weather, may be done; but it should always be dressed as soon as it begins to bleed at the nose.

LEVERETS may be distinguished from hares, by their having a knob or small bone on the fore leg, near the foot, which hares have not. Leverets will not keep, therefore should be dressed as soon as possible.

RABBITS.—The age of Rabbits, whether wild or tame, may be known by nearly the same rules as that of Hares: observe also, that if old, their hairs are intermixed with the wool, their claws will be limber, and their flesh, instead of being white, will have a blue cast, and be slimy.

POULTRY.

(POULTRY _is in the greatest perfection when most plentiful. It is generally dearest from February to Midsummer, and cheapest in September._)

GEESE.—The bill and feet of a young Goose will be yellow, the breast fat and plump, and the fat white and soft; but if old, the bill and feet will be red, and the fat yellow and skinny. If fresh, the feet will be limber, but if stale, stiff and dry. Green-Geese are in season in April, May, and June. They should be scalded. Stubble-Geese come into season in September.

TURKEYS.—Choose cock birds. The very best have black legs, but the white legged birds are nearly as fine. If young their legs will be smooth, and the spurs of the cock will be very short and tender; but if old, the legs will be rough, and the spurs long and hard, unless filed or cut off. But the best criterion, by which to judge of both Turkeys and Fowls with certainty is, that the toes and bills, if they be young, will be soft and pliable, but will feel hard and stiff, if old. A Turkey should be kept without meat thirty-six hours before it is killed, and should be hung up in its feathers a week before it is dressed.

FOWLS.—Young Pullets are in their prime before they begin to lay; but Hen Fowls are best when full of eggs, at which time the vent is soft. The comb, skin, and legs of old Hens are rough. A good Capon has a large rump, and much fat at the shoulders, and its comb is pale.

To know whether any kind of Fowl in its feathers is fit to dress, pull the feathers off the vent very gently, and if they come off easily, it ought to be dressed immediately.

DUCKS and DUCKLINGS.—These may be chosen by the same rules as Turkeys and Fowls; but the bills and feet of wild Ducks are smaller and redder than those of tame ones; their plumage too is different. Young wild Ducks will not keep. All young Ducks should be scalded, as that sweetens them, and improves their flavour.

[Norfolk is famous for Turkeys, Geese, and Ducks; Surrey and Sussex for Fowls and Ducklings. The Dorking Fowls are in high estimation in London.]

PIGEONS.—These birds should be both young and fresh, and when they are so, they are fat and full at the vent; their legs are limber and of a dusky white: young Pigeons have also a yellow down round their necks and heads. If old, their legs and feet are large, harsh, and red, and the vent discoloured and flabby. Tame Pigeons are best, as wood Pigeons are harder and darker coloured.

WILD FOWL.

To judge whether these are young and fresh, observe the rules given above for tame Fowls; recollect also that these birds should be fat, and when they are so, they will be hard at the vent; if stale, the skin will peel off when rubbed with the finger.

PHEASANTS.—Cock Pheasants are best. Hens are excellent when full of eggs.

WOODCOCKS.—These are fine, high-flavoured birds, and when in the best condition, they feel thick and firm, and have a vein of fat down the sides of the breast. When stale they run at the nostrils. _Land Rails and Snipes_ are chosen by these rules.

PARTRIDGES.—The yellow legs of young partridges become blue when old, and their bills changed from yellow to a dark hue.

QUAILS.—These come chiefly from France and Germany, but the finest and best that are sold in London, come from Cambridgeshire, and are fed by the poulterers with herbs, seed, or boiled bread and milk. They are so extremely delicate, in feeding, that two of them will not eat out of the same trough.

TEAL is of a beautiful plumage, and very delicate to eat. Their bills and feet are black, and are shaped like those of a Duck.

RUFFS and REES are chiefly found in Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire; and in April or May, when most in season, they are a perfect lump of fat. If poor, when caught, they should be fattened with white bread and milk boiled, given them in separate troughs.

MOOR GAME, and even GROUSE, may be kept good a long time. Old birds of all kinds will keep longest, and will be the better for keeping; but young birds should be dressed soon.

SMALL BIRDS, of every description, should be dressed immediately.

FISH.

_General Rules for choosing it._

(_The price of fish depends on the supply; and it will often be found, that one kind of fish, equally as good and seasonable as another, may be bought for much less money; therefore, never buy at an extravagant price._)

When fish is fresh, it is firm, bright, and stiff; the gills are of a lively red, hard to open, and smell sweet; and the eyes are full and clear. If stale, the whole fish, and particularly the gills and fins, will always be flabby and limber, the gills will be pale, and the eyes sunk and dull. By these rules alone, good fish may be distinguished from bad; but besides these, some kinds of fish have other distinguishing peculiarities, which are as follow; viz.

STURGEON.—The grain of the flesh of a fine Sturgeon is smooth and very white, interspersed with blue veins. The skin is soft and tender, and its smell is very pleasant. When the veins and gristles are brown or yellow, instead of blue, or the skin is hard and dry, the fish is not good.

CAVIARE.—This is the roe of the female Sturgeon. It should be taken out and beaten flat, then sprinkled with salt and dried, first in the sun and air, and afterwards in an oven, till it becomes very dry and of a reddish brown colour. Thus prepared, it is a fine relish; it is to be eaten with oil and vinegar.

TURBOT, when good, is thick, firm, and plump; and the nose, and fins all round the belly, tinged with a pink colour; but if it has lost this beautiful tinge, or if the belly be changed from a yellowish white to a blueish cast, the fish is either stale or poor, or both.

SOLES are to be chosen by these rules, particularly as to the pink tinge round their bellies and under their noses.

COD FISH should be thick at the neck, having the gills red, the flesh very white, firm, hard, and dear, and the eyes bright.

HADDOCK are to be chosen by these rules. The shortest fish are the best.

SALMON should be chosen for its small head and thick neck; its scales should be bright, and its gills and flesh of a fine red colour. The Thames and Severn Salmon are mostly esteemed.

SKATE, MAIDS, and THORNBACKS are all of one species; they ought to be white and thick. The two latter should be kept a day, or perhaps two, to make them tender, and Skate may be kept longer. The maiden Skate and the young male, or Thornback, are the best; but large, old Skate, is generally coarse and rank.

FLOUNDERS, PLAICE, &c. should be stiff and firm, with bright, full eyes. If flabby, these and all other kinds of fish are certainly stale. The Thames Flounders are reckoned best, in London, because they may be had alive, or nearly so, and they are always best when dressed as soon as caught.

HERRINGS, PILCHARDS, WHITINGS, SPRATS, &c.—These may be classed together. The largest are the best. Their gills should be of a fine red, their fins stiff, their eyes bright, and their flesh, when best, is bright and firm. As the Herrings emigrate, in immense shoals, from the northern regions, they are in the greatest perfection on their first arrival on the coasts of Scotland, the North of Ireland, and the Isle of Man. On the coast of the German Ocean also, even so far south as Yarmouth, they are taken in great quantities, remarkably fat and fine, and full of spawn; but before they reach the southern coast of England, they become poor and thin, and are then known by the denomination of Shotten-Herrings.

MACKEREL look beautifully bright when first caught. These and WHITINGS should be dressed as soon as possible.

FRESH WATER FISH.

PIKE and JACK are taken in rivers; they are very dry eating, and require much seasoning and sauce.

CARP, TENCH, and PERCH, are best eaten as soon as caught; the latter is not so much esteemed as the two former.

SMELTS, when fresh, have a fine bright appearance, firm flesh, and a fragrant smell, like a cucumber.

GUDGEONS, ROACH, and DACE, and most other river fish, must be chosen by the rules already given.

BUTTER, CHEESE, and EGGS.