Chapter 32

(_c_) PUTREFACTION.--When putrefaction takes place, food decays and disintegrates, or decay takes place with the production of a gas of a disagreeable odor. This type of spoilage is readily detected. Food thus affected is unfit for use.

Putrefaction is usually caused by imperfect sealing. It may result, however, from imperfect sterilization.

(_d_) BOTULISM.--A bacillus termed _botulinus_ sometimes grows on canned foods, especially those rich in protein or lacking in acid. This organism produces a violent poison in the food. But fortunately, the poison may be destroyed by boiling the food for ten minutes. Hence, it is advisable to _boil_ canned food at least 30 minutes before using. This should be done even though the food is to be served cold. It may easily be cooled after boiling. When there is the least suspicion that food is spoiled, it should be discarded.

QUESTIONS

Explain why boiled milk keeps sweet for a longer time than uncooked milk. Why do foods need to be sealed to preserve them?

Why does cooked meat "keep" longer than uncooked meat?

LESSON CLXVII

PROCESSING WITH LITTLE OR NO SUGAR--CANNED FRUIT

JARS FOR CANNED FRUIT.--There are many types of fruit jars. Glass jars rather than metal cans should be used for home canning. Jars should be constructed so that there is no contact of the fruit with metal, hence a jar having a glass cover is desirable. A large opening, simple construction, ease in cleaning, and perfect sealing are characteristics of good fruit jars.

Glass jars should be _tested_ before using: Partly fill the jar with water, adjust the rubber and cover, seal, invert the jar. Examine carefully for leakage.

RUBBER RINGS.--Soft, elastic rubbers should be chosen. It is poor economy to use old rubbers. Rubber after usage becomes hard and inelastic; it may cause imperfect sealing and hence decay of the fruit.

In certain processes of canning, it is necessary to subject the jars provided with rubber rings and covers to long periods of boiling or to the intense heat of a pressure or steam cooker. When such a method is followed it is especially necessary that rubber rings of good quality be used. To meet this requirement, the United States Department of Agriculture advises that rubber rings conform to the following:

1. Inside diameter of 2 1/4 inches (for the jar of standard size).

2. Width of ring or flange from 1/4 to 12/32 of an inch.

3. Thickness of 1/12 of an inch.

4. Tensile strength sufficient to "stretch considerably and return promptly to place without changing the inside diameter."

5. Firm enough so that no crease or break shows after it has been tightly folded.

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF FRUIT FOR CANNING.--Select solid, and not over-ripe, fruit. It is better to have underripe than over-ripe fruit. Fresh fruits--if possible picked on the same day they are to be used--are desirable for canning.

Most fruits should be washed before using. Quinces should be rubbed with a coarse towel before they are washed. Berries and small fruits should be washed before they are hulled or stemmed. Most small fruits contain so much water that it is not necessary to add water for cooking. Hence such fruits should be drained thoroughly after washing. If there are any decayed or bruised spots on fruit, the damaged portion should be removed completely.

Peaches and tomatoes may be peeled instead of pared. This is done by placing the fruit in a wire basket and then immersing the basket in a kettle of boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove the basket of fruit from the hot water and plunge it for a moment in cold water. Drain, then peel the fruit. If desired, cut into halves, quarters, or slices. After fruit is peeled or pared, it can be kept from discoloring by covering with cold water.

METHODS OF CANNING FRUIT

Several methods may be used for canning fruit:

(_a_) OPEN KETTLE.--This method consists of cooking the fruit in water or sirup and pouring it into jars and sealing. The entire process of sterilization takes place in the kettle before the food is poured into the jars. Hence the name of the process,--_Open Kettle_.

For this method it is necessary to _boil the jars and rubbers_ before placing the food in them. This is done as follows:

Fill and surround jars with cold water. Cover lids and rubbers with cold water. Gradually heat the water and allow it to boil for at least 15 minutes. Allow the jars, covers, and rubbers to remain in the boiling water until just ready to use them. Do not touch the inside of the jars and covers with your fingers. Immerse spoons, cups, knives, skewers, or knitting needles used for testing fruits, in boiling water before using them in contact with the foods. If corks are used for sealing bottles, scald them also.

If small juicy fruits are preserved by the open kettle method, no water should be added. Add the sugar to them and allow them to stand until some of the juice is drawn from them, then cook.

If tough fruits are canned by this method, first steam, then cook in sirup, or first cook them in clear water, add the sugar, and finish cooking.

Fruit may be canned with or without sugar. Usually some sugar is used. However, some housekeepers contend that the fresh-fruit flavor is retained better by reheating the fruit and adding the sugar just before it is served. Different quantities of sugar may be used. If the fruit breaks into pieces readily, cook in a thick sirup. The quantity of water used with the sugar varies with the juiciness of the fruit. _For each pound of fruit use from 1/2 to 1 cupful of sugar with from 1/8 to 1 cupful of water_.

After cooking the fruit, adjust the rubber on the sterilized jar, fill the jar (to overflowing) with the hot fruit and sirup, cover at once, and seal. Invert the can and let it stand until cool.

(_b_) COLD PACK.--This method is followed by placing the prepared food in a clean, tested, hot jar, covering the food with water or sirup, adjusting the rubber ring and cover to the jar, and processing both the jar and its contents in boiling water or steam.

Before placing the food in the jar, it may be _blanched_, _i.e._ subjected to boiling water or steam. After blanching, the food is _cold- dipped_, _i.e._ plunged into cold water. After the preliminary steps, such as washing, paring, and cutting into pieces, foods may be _blanched_ and _cold-dipped_ as follows:

Place the food in a cheese-cloth bag or in a wire basket and immerse it in boiling water. Certain fruits are allowed to remain in the water from 1 to 5 minutes (see Table). (The time is dependent upon the kind of fruit.) Then remove the product from the boiling water, dip it immediately in cold water, remove at once, and drain for a few minutes. These two processes are used for large firm fruits. Berries and all soft fruits are canned without blanching and cold-dipping.

Whether the fruit is blanched and cold-dipped or not, place it in hot jars to 1/2 inch of the top. If a sirup is desired, it may be made by using 1/4 _to_ 1 _cupful of sugar for each quart jar with from 2 to 3 cupfuls of water._ Adjust a new, wet rubber on the jar; fill the jar to 1/4 inch of the top with sirup or with boiling water. Place the cover on the jar, but do not seal it tightly. If a screw top jar is used, screw on the lid by grasping it with the thumb and little finger. If the jar has a bail top, adjust the top bail only,--not the lower bail. Then process the jars and their contents by placing in:

(1) Kettle or clothes boiler provided with a rack (see Figure 91) or some sort of false bottom such as strips of wood, straw, paper, or wire-netting of one half inch mesh.

(2) Steam cooker (see Figure 18).

(3) Pressure cooker (see Figure 17).

If the kettle or wash boiler is used, rest the jars on the rack in the container, fill the latter with enough hot water so that it extends to a depth of one inch above the covers of the jars. Then boil the water. Count the time of processing when the water begins to boil. Keep the water at boiling temperature for the length of time given in the Table below.

If the steam cooker is used, place the filled jars in the cooker and steam for a few minutes longer than when the jar is immersed in boiling water (see Table below).

If the pressure cooker is used, process according to the length of time stated in the Table given below.

After sterilizing fruit by any of these methods, remove the jars from the container, seal, invert, and set them aside to cool in a place free from draft. When cool, wash the outside of the jars, and label. Store in a cool, dark cupboard. Wrapping each jar in paper before storing is advised.

Bail top jars may be tested for perfect sealing by loosening the top bail, and lifting the jar by grasping its lid with the fingers. If the jar is securely sealed, the lid will not come off, because of internal suction. In case the lid comes off, remove the rubber, replace it with a new, wet one, adjust the cover and again process for at least 1/3 of the original processing period or not less than 10 minutes.

A DISCUSSION OF METHODS OF CANNING.--(_a_) While the open kettle is not as safe a method of canning as the cold pack from the standpoint of perfect processing, it is desirable for small watery fruits, especially strawberries, since evaporation of some of the water takes place. It is also generally used for fruits preserved with much sugar, such as preserves, jams, conserves, etc. Many housekeepers find this method desirable for canning tomatoes and beets. The skins may be removed from the latter after cooking, thereby losing less coloring of the vegetable.

(_b_) The cold pack method of canning is very satisfactory for most fruits and all vegetables. It is especially desirable for whole fruits or for fruits in large pieces. The shape of the fruit may be preserved better by this method than by the open kettle process. It is also a safer method as far as satisfactory processing is concerned. Many housekeepers find it easier than the open kettle method.

The blanching and cold-dipping of vegetables and fruits which may be one of the steps in the cold pack method is thought to accomplish several things:

1. To remove objectionable acids and flavors.

2. To make the foods more pliable for packing in the jars.

It was formerly thought that blanching and cold-dipping of vegetables destroyed some of the bacteria and aided in processing the food. Recent experimentation shows that these processes do not affect the bacteria and have no value as far as the preservation of the food is concerned.

TABLE FOR CANNING FRUITS BY ONE PERIOD OF PROCESSING [Footnote 124: Adapted from Farmers' Bulletin 1211, "Home Canning of Fruits and Vegetables," Revised August, 1922.]

TIME OF PROCESSING IN PINT OR FOOD TIME OF QUART JARS IN: BLANCHING (_a_) (_b_) Water Bath at Pressure 12 degrees F. or Steam Cooker 5 Pounds Cooker Minutes Minutes Minutes

Apples, cut in pieces 1 1/2 20 to 30 Apricots 1 to 2 30 10 Blackberries, Blueberries None 10 to 20 10 Cherries 1/4 25 10 Currants, Dewberries, Gooseberries None 10 to 20 10 Pears 4-8 in boiling sirup 20 to 30 10 [Footnote 125: Do not cold dip after blanching in boiling sirup. Use the longer time of processing in the water bath for large pears.] Peaches 1 or until skin is loosened 20 to 30 10 Plums None 20 to 30 12 Pineapples None 30 10 Raspberries None 10 to 20 10 Rhubarb None 20 to 30 10 to 15 Strawberries None 10 to 20 10

NOTE.--Use only fresh, sound fruits for canning.

Do not begin to count the time of processing in a water bath until the water reaches the boiling point.

When different times of processing are given, as 20 to 30 minutes, use the longer time for quart glass jars and the shorter for tin cans.

For altitudes higher than 1000 feet, increase the time of processing 10 per cent for each additional 1000 feet. For very high altitudes it may be best to use a pressure cooker for certain fruits.

If fruits are packed tightly, time of processing should be increased.

DISCUSSION OF THE DIFFERENT DEVICES USED IN THE COLD PACK PROCESS.--(1) The kettle or wash boiler provided with a rack is an inexpensive device. It is satisfactory for processing fruits and acid vegetables; there is a question whether non-acid vegetables may be processed in the hot water bath even though they are processed on three successive days. It is thought by some that the flavor of foods canned at low temperature, _i.e._ not above 212 degrees F., is superior to that canned at a higher temperature.

(2) The steam cooker is a convenient and satisfactory equipment to use for canning fruits and some vegetables. It is more expensive, however, than the kettle having a rack, but less fuel is required when using it.

(3) The pressure cooker is the most satisfactory from the standpoint of processing. It is especially satisfactory for vegetables and meat, since a much higher temperature than that of boiling water is maintained during the processing period. The higher temperature also makes it possible to process foods in a shorter time. However, it is thought by some that the flavor of foods canned above 212 degrees F. is inferior to that canned at a lower temperature. Moreover, the pressure cooker is a more expensive device than either of the other two.

QUESTIONS

Why should processed jars, covers, and rubbers remain in boiling water until just ready for use?

Why not touch the inside of jars and covers with the fingers?

Why should berries and small fruits be washed before hulling or stemming?

Why should decayed or bruised spots on fruits be removed completely before canning the fruit?

Why is it that the cold pack method of canning is safer from the standpoint of processing than the open kettle method?

Why should the jar containing fruit that is to be processed by the

cold pack method be filled to 1/4 inch of the top with sirup rather than to overflowing?

Why should the covers of jars not be sealed tightly before placing in the kettle or steamer used for processing?

Why is it unnecessary and undesirable to dislodge air bubbles in jars containing food processed by the cold pack process?

When food is processed by immersing the jars in boiling water, why should the water extend above the covers of the jars to a depth of one inch?

LESSON CLXVIII

PROCESSING WITH MUCH SUGAR--PRESERVES, JAMS, AND CONSERVES

EXPERIMENT 93: THE USE OF SUGAR AS A PRESERVATIVE.--Place 2 thin slices of fresh fruit in a sauce dish. Sprinkle one of the slices generously with sugar. Set the sauce dish aside for at least 24 hours. Examine. What change has taken place in the fruit without sugar? What has caused the change? Compare the sugared fruit with that without sugar. What conclusion can be drawn concerning the use of sugar in preserving fruit?

PRESERVES

Sugar was mentioned as one of the preservatives used in the preservation of food (see _The Principles of Preserving Food_). Sugar in large quantity is unfavorable to germ life and hence is a most effective preservative. _Preserves_ are made by cooking fruit in a thick sirup as in the _Method of Canning_ (_a_) Open Kettle. A large quantity of sugar is desirable as far as preservation is concerned; but for flavor less sugar is usually to be preferred. Only a few fruits are better when preserved with considerable sugar. Fruits best adapted for preserving are strawberries, sour cherries, sour plums, quinces, currants, and raspberries. For preserves, use 3/4 to 1 pound of sugar for 1 pound of fruit. The less quantity of sugar should be used for peaches, plums, quinces, currants, and raspberries; the greater quantity, for strawberries and cherries. Use the quantity of water given in _Method of Canning_ (_a_) Open Kettle. Cook and seal as canned fruit.

JAMS

Jam is made as follows: Clean the fruit. If large fruits are used, pare or peel them and cut into small pieces. If small fruits,--berries or grapes, --are used, mash them. Cook the fruit in as little water as possible. When the fruit is soft, measure it and add the sugar,--use 3/4 to 1 part of sugar to 1 part of cooked fruit. Cook until thick, stirring to prevent burning. Test the thickness by dropping from a spoon. If it falls in heavy drops, the jam is sufficiently cooked. Pour into sterilized jelly glasses. Cover the glasses with clean cloth or paper and set aside to cool and stiffen. Melt paraffin. Pour it (hot) over the cold jam. Allow the paraffin to harden and then cover the glasses with the lids. Wipe the outside of the glasses, label, and store.

Fruit that is too soft or too ripe for canning or preserving may be used for making jam.

MARMALADES

Marmalades are made much as jams. However, usually only the pulp and juices of fruits are used. The fruit is first cooked, and the skins and seeds removed before adding the sugar. In Orange Marmalade, the rind is used.

CONSERVES

Conserves consist of a combination of two or more fruits. Nuts and other materials are sometimes added. Conserves may be prepared as preserves, _i.e._ cooking the ingredients with sugar, until thick; or as jam, _i.e._ cooking the ingredients until tender, then adding the sugar and cooking until thick. It is thought by some that the latter method produces a finer flavor; it makes a product less tough and less sticky. In the special recipes for conserves given in this text, the latter method is followed.

ORANGE MARMALADE (I)

1 dozen oranges 1 grapefruit 6 lemons Sugar

Weigh the fruit, slice it. To each pound of fruit add 1 quart of cold water. Let the mixture stand for 24 hours. Then cook slowly for 2 hours. Weigh the cooked fruit. Add an equal weight of sugar. Cook for 1 hour or until it stiffens. Pour into sterilized jelly glasses, seal, and cover as directed for Jams.

ORANGE MARMALADE (II)

1 dozen oranges 3 pounds sugar 2 quarts rhubarb Rind of 6 oranges

Wash the fruit. Slice the oranges and cut the rhubarb into pieces. (Do not peel the rhubarb.) Cook the oranges and rhubarb for 30 minutes. Add the sugar and cook slowly for 2 hours or until thick. Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, seal and cover as directed for Jams.

CARROT MARMALADE

1 pound carrots 3 cupfuls sugar 2 lemons 1/2 teaspoonful salt

Wash, scrape, and chop the carrots. Extract the juice from the lemons. Put the carrots and lemon rinds through a food chopper, cover them with water, and cook until tender. Add the lemon juice, salt, and sugar to the cooked mixture. Cook until it is thickened. Turn into sterilized jelly glasses. Let stand until cool. Then cover with melted paraffin.

STRAWBERRY AND PINEAPPLE CONSERVE

Use equal quantities of strawberries and shredded pineapple. Cook the shredded pineapple in the least possible quantity of water. When tender, add the strawberries and cook until they are soft. Measure the fruit and add three fourths as much sugar as fruit and a small quantity of salt. Cook until thick (see _Jams_). Pour into sterilized glasses. Seal and cover as directed for Jams.

CRANBERRY CONSERVE

1 quart cranberries 1 1/2 cupfuls water 1/4 pound raisins 1/2 pound California walnuts, chopped 1 orange,--juice and grated rind 1 1/2 pounds sugar 1/2 teaspoonful salt

Wash the fruit. Cook the cranberries in the water until the berries burst. Strain. Add the remaining ingredients and cook 25 minutes or until the mixture is thick (see _Jams_). Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, seal and cover as directed for Jams.

GRAPE CONSERVE

1/2 peck grapes 2 oranges,--juice and rind 2 lemons,--juice and rind 1 cupful chopped nuts Sugar 1/2 teaspoonful salt

Wash the fruit. Remove the grapes from the stems; remove the skins from the pulp. Cook the pulp until soft; strain, to remove the seeds. Place the strained pulp and skins in a preserving kettle. Extract the juice from the oranges and lemons, then put the rinds through a food-chopper. Add the lemon and orange juice and rind to the grape mixture and cook for 1 hour. Measure the mixture. Then add an equal quantity of sugar and the nuts and salt. Continue cooking until thick (_see Jams_). Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, seal and cover as directed for Jams.

APRICOT CONSERVE

1 pound dried apricots 1 1/2 quarts water Sugar 2 pineapples _or_ 1 large can shredded pineapple 1/2 teaspoonful salt

Wash the dried apricots and soak them in the water. In the water in which they were soaked, cook the apricots until tender. Press through a colander. If fresh pineapples are used, shred them and cook, in as little water as possible, until tender. Combine the cooked fruits and measure. Add 1/2 as much sugar and the salt. Cook until thick (see _Jams_). Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, seal and cover as directed for Jams.

PLUM CONSERVE

1 pound (1 1/2 dozen) plums 1/4 cupful chopped nuts 1 cupful seeded raisins 2 oranges 1 cupful water 1 1/4 cupfuls sugar 1/2 teaspoonful salt

Wash the plums, stone, and cut into pieces. Extract the juice from the oranges. Put the rind through a food chopper. Mix the plums, raisins, orange rind, and water. Simmer until the fruits and peel are tender. Add the orange juice, sugar, nuts, and salt, and continue cooking until the mixture has the consistency of marmalade. Pour into sterilized glasses. When cool, seal and cover as directed for Jams.

QUESTIONS

How do Preserves differ from Canned Fruit?

How does Jam differ from Preserves?

How does Jam differ from Fruit Sauce?

Why does Jam "keep" better than Fruit Sauce?

Give method of sealing Canned Fruit and method of sealing Jam. Explain why different methods are used.

LESSON CLXIX

PROCESSING WITH MUCH SUGAR--JELLIES

EXPERIMENT 94: PECTIN IN FRUIT JUICE.--Put a few grapes, slices of apple, or cranberries in a small saucepan, and add enough water to cover and cook until the fruit is tender and soft enough to mash. Strain the cooked fruit through cheese-cloth.

Put 1 teaspoonful of the extracted fruit juice in a saucer, add an equal quantity of alcohol. [Footnote 126: Either grain (ethyl), wood (methyl), or denatured alcohol may be used. _Both wood and denatured alcohol are poisonous_. If they are used for testing, they should be handled and stored away with caution.] Mix by gently rotating the saucer. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes. Then examine. What change has taken place in the fruit juice?

The formation of a solid mass in the mixture of fruit juice and alcohol which has stood for 5 minutes indicates that the fruit juice contains pectin,--a vegetable gelatine.

EXPERIMENT 95: PECTIN IN THE INNER PORTION OF ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL.--Cut away the yellow portion from orange or lemon rind. Cut or chop the white portion of the rind in small pieces. Cover with water and soak several hours or overnight. Then cook slowly for 1/2 hour. Strain and set aside to cool. To 1 teaspoonful of this liquid add an equal quantity of alcohol, and proceed as in Experiment 94. Does the lemon or orange rind contain pectin?