Chapter 33

THE PRINCIPLE OF JELLY MAKING.--When the juices of certain fruits are extracted and cooked with sugar, the mixture stiffens when cool. This property of stiffening is due to the presence in fruit of two materials,-- a certain carbohydrate, called _pectin_, and an acid. Pectin is like starch in that it stiffens when cold; but like sugar, in that it is soluble. Not all fruits contain pectin.

Jelly is most easily prepared from fruits which are rich in pectin and contain some acid. Unless pectin is contained in the fruit, the addition of sugar to fruit juice will not cause the juice to jelly. But jelly may be made from a fruit lacking in pectin, if it is combined with a fruit rich in pectin.

Certain fruits contain pectin, but are lacking in acid, hence are not good for jelly making. These fruits can be used for jelly, however, if acid is added.

SELECTION OF FRUITS FOR JELLY MAKING.--For jelly making, choose fruits which contain considerable pectin and some acid. The fruits should be fresh and not over-ripe. Some "green" fruits make fine jelly. Currant, crabapple, grape, apple, and plum are good jelly-making fruits.

If it is desirable to use a fruit containing little pectin, as strawberries, add a fruit rich in pectin, as currants. If about 10 per cent of the fruit which contain much pectin is added to the other fruit, the flavor of the foundation fruit is not much altered.

If it is desired to use a fruit containing pectin but deficient in acid, as sweet apple and quince, add tartaric or citric acid. Since the acidity of fruits varies, no definite quantity of acid can be stated. It has been suggested [Footnote 127: See University of Illinois Bulletin, "Principles of Jelly Making," p. 249.] that enough acid should be added to make the fruit juice about as acid to taste as good tart apples. At least one teaspoonful of acid is required for one quart of fruit juice. Dissolve the acid in the fruit juice, then taste the mixture. If necessary, add more acid to produce the acidity indicated above. Jelly may be prepared from strawberries, peaches, and pears by the addition of these acids, but the flavor is somewhat impaired.

The suggestion has been made also [Footnote 128: _Idem_, p. 25.] that the inner white portion of lemon or orange peel be used as a source of pectin with fruit deficient in pectin. Remove the yellow portion of the rind, put the white portion through a food chopper, and soak in water for several hours or overnight. Then cook slowly for several hours. Strain out the solid portion. Add the liquid to the fruit juice deficient in pectin and use for jelly making. The rind of lemons and oranges may be dried for use in jelly making. When desired for use, soak and cook as directed above.

GENERAL METHOD OF JELLY MAKING

Wash and pick over the fruit; remove the stems, but use the skin and seeds and thus retain as much of the fruit as possible. The skin of fruit usually adds color to jelly. If large fruit is used, cut it in pieces. Cook the fruit slowly in water. Use very little water for juicy fruits, such as currants and raspberries,--_1 cupful of water to 4 or 5 quarts of fruit_. Crush the fruits during cooking.

To cook large fruits requires water. A general proportion is _half as much water, by measure, as prepared fruit_. A little less water may be used for peaches and plums and a little more for winter apples. A fair estimate is 3 quarts of strained juice from 8 quarts of fruit and 4 quarts of water. If the quantity of juice is greater than this, it should be boiled down to 3 quarts before adding the sugar.

When the fruit is cooked until it is very soft, it is ready for straining. For straining, make a bag of double cheesecloth or flannel. Wring the jelly bag out of hot water and suspend it from a strong support. Pour the cooked fruit into the bag and let the juice drip into a bowl. If transparent jelly is desired, do not press the juice through the bag; let the juice drip for several hours or overnight.

Measure the clear fruit juice and heat it. The time of cooking depends upon the per cent of pectin and the acidity of the juice; the more pectin and acid, the less the time of cooking. The time varies from 8 to 30 minutes. Skim the juice when necessary. While the juice is cooking, _measure three fourths as much sugar_ [Footnote 129: The quantity of sugar used in jelly making depends upon the quantity of pectin in fruit juice,--the more pectin, the more sugar. A most satisfactory method of determining the quantity of pectin and consequently the quantity of sugar to use with fruit juice is suggested by the Bulletin of the National War Garden Commission. The test follows: To a tablespoonful of fruit juice which has been boiled and cooled, add 1 tablespoonful of alcohol (see footnote 126.). Mix by gently rotating and then let stand. If a solid mass forms, _use equal parts of fruit juice and sugar_. If 2 or 3 masses form, _use 2/3 to 3/4 as much sugar as juice._ If several small solid particles form, _use 1/2 as much sugar as juice_. If no solid particles form, the fruit juice should be enriched by the addition of some pectin-rich fruit juice.] _as fruit juice_ and heat the sugar. For currants and green or under-ripe grapes, use equal quantities of sugar and fruit juice. Add the hot sugar to the boiling sirup and cook. The following are _tests for sufficient cooking of jelly._

(_a_) Coats the spoon.

(_b_) Falls from the spoon in heavy drops. [Footnote 130: Two drops forming side by side along the edge of the spoon has been found to be a reliable test.]

(_c_) Stiffens when dropped on a cold dish and allowed to cool.

The first two tests are more satisfactory than the last, since the cooking process may be carried too far while the "test-jelly" is cooling.

Seal as Jam or shred paraffin and place it in the bottom of sterilized jelly glasses. Pour the hot jelly into the glasses and set aside to stiffen. Then cover and store. It is well to store jelly in a cool, dry, and dark place. The color of fruit sometimes fades when kept in a light place.

Long cooking of pectin changes it into substances which do not have the property of jellying, hence, make jelly in as short a time as possible. The purpose of heating the sugar is to hasten the process of jelly making. The addition of cold sugar would cool the mixture and thus prolong the process.

The addition of too much sugar is often the cause of unsuccessful jelly making. Crystallization of the sugar from the jelly may result from an excess of sugar.

The _fruit pulp left in the jelly bag_ should be utilized. Marmalade may be made from it, or more jelly can be prepared from it. To accomplish the latter, add water to the fruit pulp (enough to cover), mix, and heat slowly until the boiling point is reached. Strain and prepare jelly from the juice. However, more cooking of the juice before the sugar is added is required for the second extraction, since the juice contains so much water. The juice extracted for a third time from most fruits will contain enough pectin for jelly making. It has been found that more desirable jelly can be obtained by this method than by pressing the juice from the bag and thus obtaining what is termed "second quality" jelly.

FRUIT JUICES WITHOUT SUGAR.--Extract the juice from fruit as directed in _General Method of Jelly Making_. Do not add sugar to the juice. Can it as directed in (_a_) or (_b_).

(_a_) Reheat until the boiling temperature is reached, then pour into sterilized jars. Fill to overflowing and seal.

(_b_) Place the juice in sterilized jars. Partially seal and place in a water bath having the water reach the neck of the jar. Let it cook at a simmering temperature from 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the water bath, and seal securely.

In the winter time or when desired for use, this fruit juice may be made into jelly as directed in _General Method of Jelly Making_, or it may be sweetened, diluted if necessary, and used as a beverage. This method of preserving fruit juice is especially desirable when there is a scarcity of sugar.

QUESTIONS

Note the difference in the quantity of carbohydrates in Canned Fruit and Fruit Jelly (see Figure 92). What kind of carbohydrate is present in greatest quantity in these foods?

To what is the difference in flavor of Canned Fruit and Fruit Jelly largely due?

What is the chief difference in the processes of jam making and jelly making?

What is the result if too much sugar is used in jelly making?

What is the result if jelly is cooked too long?

Note the difference in the methods of sealing jams and jellies. Explain.

LESSON CLXX

PROCESSING WITH VINEGAR AND SPICES--RELISHES

SPICES AND VINEGAR ARE PRESERVATIVES OF FOODS. Not all spices, however, have equal preservative power. It has been found that cinnamon and cloves aid in food preservation, but that pepper and ginger have very little, if any, preservative power. In the lesson on _Flavoring Materials: Food Adjuncts_, it was mentioned that spices and condiments should be used sparingly in the diet, hence spiced fruits and pickles should have only occasional use. There is no doubt that lemon juice or other tart fruit juices are better sources of acid-satisfying materials than vinegar.

SPICED PEARS

1/2 peck pears 3 pounds sugar 1 pint vinegar 1/2 ounce ginger root Rind of 1/2 lemon Whole allspice Stick cinnamon Whole cloves

Cut the pears in halves, remove the seeds, and pare. Into each piece of pear stick two or three cloves. Make a sirup of the vinegar and sugar. Divide the cinnamon, allspice, and ginger into two parts, tie in cheese- cloth bags, and add to the sirup. When the sirup begins to simmer, add the pears and lemon rind; bring to the boiling point, remove from the fire, and turn into a stone jar. Cover and stand in a cool place overnight. Next day bring the mixture to the boiling point, again place in the stone jar and stand overnight. The following day heat as before. Do this for five consecutive days. The last day, remove the fruit from the sirup, heat the sirup and evaporate it until there is just enough to cover the fruit. Add the fruit to the hot sirup, heat to the boiling point, then put in stone or glass jars or tumblers.

The pears may be finished in one day as follows: Cook the fruit until tender, then remove it, evaporate the sirup, add the fruit, reheat again, and finish as above. Fruit prepared by the first method has a finer flavor.

TOMATO CATSUP

12 ripe tomatoes 2 large onions 2 green peppers 2 tablespoonfuls salt 4 tablespoonfuls brown sugar 2 tablespoonfuls ginger 1 tablespoonful cinnamon 1 tablespoonful mustard 1 nutmeg grated 1 pint vinegar

Peel the tomatoes and onions. Chop the onions and peppers fine. Cook all the ingredients together for 3 hours, or until soft and broken. Stir frequently. Bottle and seal while hot. The mixture may be strained before bottling.

CELERY SAUCE

20 large ripe tomatoes 6 large onions 4 large stalks celery 3/4 cupful sugar 1 large red pepper 4 tablespoonfuls salt 2 cupfuls vinegar

Chop the vegetables, add the salt and vinegar, and cook for 2 hours. Then add the sugar. Allow it to reach the boiling point again. Turn into sterilized bottles or jars, and seal.

OIL PICKLES

2 dozen small cucumbers 2 dozen small onions 1/2 cupful olive oil 1/4 cupful sugar 1 pint vinegar 1/3 cupful salt 1/4 cupful mustard seed 1 pint vinegar 1 teaspoonful celery seed

Scrub the cucumbers. Cut them (without paring) into thin slices. Wash and cut the onions into thin slices. Mix the salt with these vegetables (to extract moisture), and let the mixture stand over night. Then drain the moisture from the vegetables so that the vinegar may not be diluted.

Mix the remaining ingredients. Pour the mixture over the onions and cucumbers. Mix well, cover, and set aside for a few hours. Then pour into sterilized jars. Fill the jar with liquid. (If necessary, more vinegar may be used.) To drive out the air, place the jars (with covers loosely adjusted) in a water bath at simmering temperature (180 degrees F.) and heat at this temperature for 15 minutes. Remove from the water bath and seal.

TO SEAL BOTTLES.--Melt together, over hot water, equal parts of shoemaker's wax and resin. When liquefied, dip the tops of corked bottles into it. Corks in bottles may be dipped also in hot paraffin. Dip several times.

QUESTIONS

What is the objection to excessive use of spiced foods?

Name some substitutes for pickles. Why is an excessive or continuous use of pickles objectionable in diet?

LESSON CLXXI

CANNED VEGETABLES

MICROORGANISMS IN THE SPORE FORM.--Many microorganisms are destroyed by heating them for a few minutes to boiling temperature. However, some microorganisms have a peculiar power of retaining life under most adverse conditions. When subjected to extreme heat or cold, intense drying, or when there is lack of food, certain microorganisms assume a spore form, _i.e._ they cease growing and reproducing, and are able to undergo conditions which would readily kill microorganisms in the active form. Some microorganisms in the spore form are able to resist the temperature of boiling water for an hour or longer. Then as soon as the adverse conditions mentioned above are removed, the microorganisms assume active form and begin to grow and reproduce. In the growing state, their destruction is not so difficult.

Some of the microorganisms in certain foods, especially vegetables and fruits grown in a dry season, are capable of spore formation. When microorganisms in spore form do exist in foods that are to be canned, or the microorganisms change into spore form during the canning process, the microorganisms may not be destroyed by the time the ordinary process of canning is completed. If such is the case, when the canned foods are cooled and the conditions are favorable for growth, the microorganisms assume active form, begin to grow, and cause the decomposition of food. Twenty-four hours is sufficient time for the microorganisms to change from the spore to the active form. Hence the canned foods must be heated again, if they are to be preserved. For foods difficult to process (for the reason given above) processing should be carried on for three successive days. This is called _intermittent processing_.

Destruction of microorganisms in the spore form can be accomplished in a short time by subjecting them to very intense heat. In canning factories this is done by processing at a temperature higher than that of boiling water. In the home this may be accomplished by processing in the pressure cooker. According to one authority processing intermittently, _i.e._ on three successive days, does not insure satisfactory processing of materials containing spores.

SINGLE PERIOD AND INTERMITTENT PROCESSING.--The acid of tomatoes and fruits aids in the destruction of microorganisms. Hence intermittent processing is unnecessary for these. Processing tomatoes and fruits in a hot water bath for one period has proved very satisfactory and certain.

There is some question, however, regarding the safety of canning all vegetables by one period of processing in the water bath at 212 degrees F., _especially in regions where botulism is known to occur and where Foods cannot be stored in a cool place_. In Farmers' Bulletin 1211, "Home Canning of Fruits and Vegetables," revised August, 1922, one period of processing in the water bath at 212 degrees F. is not advised in climates where the storage conditions are trying for the following vegetables: corn, beans, asparagus, okra, spinach and other greens, and peas (especially if at all mature). For processing these vegetables, a higher temperature than that obtained in the boiling water bath is recommended. Processing at a high temperature (from 228 degrees F. to 250 degrees F.) can be accomplished conveniently by means of a _pressure cooker_. This is especially recommended for vegetable canning in high altitudes and in localities where botulism has occurred.

It is thought that in some places the above mentioned vegetables may be _processed intermittently_ with safety. For vegetables difficult to can, pint jars only are recommended for both intermittent and single period processing in the water bath. Heat penetrates more rapidly to the center of the small jars than to the center of the large jars.

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF VEGETABLES AND CANNING.--Young vegetables, especially those that have grown quickly, are most desirable for canning. If possible, vegetables, especially corn, should be canned immediately after picking.

Vegetables for canning should be thoroughly washed, pared, scraped, or cut into pieces in the same manner as when they are cooked and served immediately. If the vegetables vary in size, it is well to sort them and fill jars with those of uniform size. If there is much difference in ripeness, sort the mature and young vegetables.

METHOD OF CANNING VEGETABLES.--The method of canning vegetables for a _single period_ does not differ greatly from the method of canning fruits. The chief difference is that jars containing fruit are filled with sirup, while those holding vegetables are filled with water and salt is added. Blanch and cold-dip vegetables as directed previously, for the length of time given. Greens and vegetables of delicate flavor are blanched most successfully by steaming either in a colander placed over boiling water or in a steamer. (Steaming greens prevents the escape of volatile oils and other materials.) Pack the vegetables in jars to within 1/2 inch of the top. It is well not to pack spinach and other greens too solidly in jars. Since lima beans, corn, and peas swell during processing, they should be packed only to about 1 inch of the top of the jar. To each jar add salt,--1 teaspoonful to each quart jar. Fill each jar to 1/2 inch of the top with boiling water. Put a new rubber on the jar, partly seal the cover, and proceed as directed for fruit (see Table below for the length of time for processing).

When vegetables are processed _intermittently_, jars with glass tops and spring clamps are recommended. In processing vegetables for three successive periods, the same method of processing and sealing is followed as for the single period. At the beginning of the second and third periods, raise the clamps of the jars to allow for expansion, then fasten the clamps at the close of processing period (see Table for the length of time of processing on each of the three successive days).

FOOD PRESERVATION

TABLE FOR CANNING FRESH, SOUND, AND FIRM VEGETABLES BY ONE PERIOD OF PROCESSING [Footnote 131: Adapted from Farmers' Bulletin 1211. Revised August, 1922.]

TIME OF PROCESSING TIME OF VEGETABLE BLANCHING OR (_a_) (_b_) Steam Pressure Water (Pressure Cooker) COOKING Bath at (1) 5lb (2) 10lb (3) 15lb 212 deg. F. 228 deg. F. 240 deg. F. 250 deg. F. Minutes Hours Minutes Minutes Minutes Asparagus 4 - - 30 to 40 Corn 1 to 5 - - 90 60 to 90 Lima beans 3 to 5 - - 45 to 60 Okra 6 to 8 - - 30 Peas 3 to 8 - - 40 to 50 Spinach 4 in water or 15 in steam - - 90 35 String beans. 3 to 5 - - 40 to 50 Tomatoes 1 to 1 1/2 to loosen skins 1/2 15 10

[Footnote for Asparagus: Scrape off tough outer skin of _asparagus_. Tie into bundles for blanching. Blanch tough ends 2 minutes and entire bundle 2 minutes longer.]

[Footnote for Corn: Blanch _corn_ on the cob, then cold dip and cut from the cob. For each pint jar, use 1 pint of cut corn, 1 cupful boiling water, and 1/2 tea-spoonful each of salt and sugar. Cook the mixture in a saucepan until it boils and pour immediately into a hot, sterilized jar.]

[Footnote for Okra: Cold dip _okra_ in _salt_ water (1 tablespoonful salt to 1 quart water).]

[Footnote for Spinach: To loosen grit, cover _spinach_ with scalding water, let stand 1 or 2 minutes. Then wash in several cold waters. Do not cold dip after blanching.]

[Footnote for Tomatoes: Pack _tomatoes_ whole in jars, then fill the jars with cooked and strained tomato pulp. Tomatoes cut into pieces may be packed closely in jars. When this is done, no liquid need be added.]

NOTE.--Processing in the hot water bath is not advised for non-acid vegetables such as asparagus, corn, lima beans, okra, peas, spinach, and string beans.

Count time of processing in a water bath after the water boils.

When two different times of processing are given, use the longer time for quart glass jars, the shorter time for tin cans.

If the jar is packed tightly, increase the time of processing.

For altitudes higher than 1000 feet, increase the time of processing 10 per cent for each additional 1000 feet. For very high altitudes, the pressure cooker rather than the hot water bath should be used.

TIME TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES BY INTERMITTENT PROCESSING [Footnote 132: See statements previously]

VEGETABLE TIME OF TIME OF PROCESSING IN WATER BATH BLANCHING AT 212 F. 12 TO 18 HOUR INTERVALS BETWEEN PERIODS (_a_) First Day (_b_) Second and Third Day

Asparagus 10 to 15 60 60 Corn 5 to 10 90 90 Lima Beans 3 to 5 90 90 Peas 5 90 90 String Beans 3 to 5 90 90

[Footnote 133: (For Asparagus, Corn, and Lima Beans) Process in _pint jars only_. See footnotes for Asparagus and Okra, above.]

USE OF CANNED VEGETABLES.--Open the can and if it is tin, empty its contents at once. If the vegetable is surrounded by liquid, use the water in cooking the vegetable, as it contains valuable materials. There are some who contend, however, that the flavor of certain vegetables such as peas and string beans is improved if the vegetable water is drained from them and they are cooked in fresh water. If this is done, the vegetable water should not be wasted. It should be used in making soup or sauce. If possible, let the vegetable stand exposed to the air for an hour or longer.

If the vegetable is to be served plain, turn into a saucepan. Cook in its own liquor at boiling temperature, for at least 30 minutes. (Cooking at boiling temperature for this length of time is advised to remove any possible danger of botulism.) When cooked, the liquid should be almost entirely evaporated. Add butter, salt, and, if desired, a very little sugar, and serve hot.

A White Sauce may also be used with a vegetable that has been heated as above.

QUESTIONS

Explain why vegetables (except tomatoes) are more difficult to can successfully than fruits.

What foodstuffs does the water in which vegetables are canned contain? From this explain why the water should not be drained from vegetables when removing them from the cans.

What is the purpose of cooking canned vegetables at boiling temperature?

LESSON CLXXII

DRIED VEGETABLES

ADVANTAGES OF DRYING FOODS.--While preserving foods by drying does not take the place of canning foods and storing them in jars or cans, it has certain advantages, viz.:

1. Little storage space is required for dried foods.

2. Dried foods can be stored in containers that cannot be used for canning.

When foods are dried, they may be reduced in bulk as much as 90 per cent; for example, 10 pounds of fresh food may be reduced to 1 pound of dried food. By this reduction no food value is lost, and the flavor is not greatly changed.