Pilgrimage from the Alps to the Tiber

Justice the Pillar of the State--Claim implied in being God's Vicar, namely, that the Pope governs the World as God would govern it, were He personally present in it--No Civil C...

The Baths of Caracalla--The Catacombs--Evidence thence arising against Romanism--The Scala Santa, or Pilate's Stairs--Peasants from Rimini climbing them--Irreverence of Devotees...

Beauty of Position--Focus of Italian Art--Education on the Aesthetic Principle--Effects as shown in the Character and Manners of the Florentines--The result not Civilization, bu...

Dawn of the Reformation--Waldensian Territory a Portion of Italy--Two-fold Mission of Italy--Origin of the Vaudois--Evidence of Romanist Historians--Evidence of their own Histor...

Road from Ferrara to Bologna--Wayside Oratories--Miserable Cultivation--Barbarism of People--Aspect of Bologna--Streets, Galleries, and Churches of its Interior--Decay of Art--S...

First Entrance into Italy--Never can be Repeated--The Cathedral of Turin--The Royal Palace--The Museum--Egyptian Mummies--Reflections--Landmark of the Vaudois Valleys--Piedmonte...

Sabbath Morning--Beauty of Sunrise on the Adriatic--Worship in S. Mark's--Popish Sabbath-schools--Sale of Indulgences for Living and Dead--An Astrologer--How the Venetians spend...

Journey to "Valleys"--Dinner at Pignerolo--Grandeur of Scenery--Associations--Bicherasio--Procession of _Santissimo_--Connection betwixt the History and the Country of the Vaudo...

The Church the Destroyer of the Country--The Pontifical Government just the Papacy in Action--That Government makes Men _Beggars_, _Slaves_, _Barbarians_--Influence of Pontifica...

A Roman House--Wretched Dwellings of Working-Classes--How Working Men spend their Leisure Hours--Roman mode of reckoning Time--Handicrafts and Trades in Rome--Meals--Breakfast,...

First Impressions in Rome erroneous--The unseen Rome--Her devotement to one thing--In what light do the Priests in Italy regard their own System?--Can they possibly believe thei...

The Rhone--Plains of Dauphiny--Mont Blanc and the "Reds"--Landscape by Night--Democratic Club in the _Diligence_--Approach the Alps--Festooned Vines--Begin the Ascent--Chamberry...

Biblioteca Ambrosiana--A Lamp in a Sepulchre--The Palimpsests--Labours of the Monks in the Cause of Knowledge--Cardinal Mai--He recovers many valuable Manuscripts of the Ancient...

First Sight of the Mediterranean--Embark at Leghorn--Elba--Italian Coast--Civita Vecchia--Passport Offices--Aspect and Population of Civita Vecchia--Papal Dungeons--Start for Ro...

Why does the Church systematically discourage Trade?--Railways--Much needed--Church opposes them--Could not a man take a journey of twenty or two hundred miles and be a good Cat...

When one goes to Rome, it is not unreasonable that he should there look for some proofs of the vaunted excellence of the Roman faith. Rome is the seat of Christ's Vicar, and the...

The Barrier--Beautiful Aspect of the City--Hotel Royale--History of Milan--Dreariness of its Streets--Decay of Art--Decay of Trade--The Cathedral--Beauty, not Sublimity, its Cha...

Site of Ancient Rome--Calm after the Storm--The Seven Hills--Their General Topography--The Aventine--The Palatine--The Ruins of the Palace of Caesar--View of Ruins of Rome from...

Tower of Capitol best Site for studying Topography of Rome--Resemblance in the Sites of great Cities--Site of Rome--Campagna di Roma--Its Extent and Boundaries--Ancient Fertilit...

Education of a Roman Boy--Seldom taught his Letters--Majority of Romans unable to Read--Popular Literature of Italy--- Newspaper of the Roman States--Censorship of the Press--St...

Doves of Venice--Re-cross the Lagunes--Padua--Wretchedness of Interior--Misery of its Inhabitants--Splendour of its Churches--The Shrine of St Antony--His Sermon to a Congregati...

Interior Disappoints at First Sight--Expands into Magnificence--Description of Interior--Mummy of San Carlo Borromeo--His too early Canonization--A Priest at Mass--The Two Myste...

At Turin begins Pilgrimage to Rome--Description of _Diligence_--Dora Susina--Plain of Lombardy--Its Boundaries--Nursed by the Alps--Lessons taught thereby--The Colina--Inauspici...

Novara--Examination of Passports--Dawn--Monks prefer Dim Light to Clear--Battle of Novara, and its Results--The Ticino--Croats--Austrian Frontier and Dogana--Examination of Book...

Lake Garda--Memories of Trent--The Council of Trent fixed the Destiny as well as Creed of Rome--Questions for Infallibility--Why should Infallibility have to grope its Way?--Why...

Interior of Verona--End of World seemingly near in Italy--The Monks and the Classics--A Cast-Iron Revolutionist--A Beautiful Glimpse--Railway Carriages--Railway Company--Tyroles...

Even in its ruins Ferrara is lovely. It wears in the tomb the sunset hues of beauty. Its streets run out in straight lines, and are of noble breadth and length. Unencumbered wit...

It was now drawing towards evening; and I must needs see the sun go down behind the Alps. There are no sights like those which nature has provided for us. What are embattled cit...

I did not go to Rome to seek for condemnatory matter against the Pope's government. Had this been my only object, I should not have deemed it necessary to undertake so long a jo...

Failure of the Reformation in Italy--Causes of this--Italian Martyrs--Their great Numbers--Consequences of rejecting the Reformation--The _Present_ the Avenger of the _Past_--Ex...