Part 6

Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’s _táleb_[61] waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.

Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word _kamsa_ (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.

Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.

Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. _Inshá-llah_.

Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to 60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room: refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.

Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.

Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a _douar_, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.

Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.

Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality _tras_ (head), and _ermoot_ (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it: I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the _douars_[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.

Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.

Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.

Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.

Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.

Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several _douars_. The people here have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we here met with the _Klágh_ again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some refreshment; we then passed three large _douars_. At Auled es Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.