Part 5

Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór, where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb, the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden, and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt, at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I was shewn the ladies of all colours and ages, who were more pleased with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me, to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest, quite done up, and unable to write any letters.

Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.

Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí, where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out the Moorish doctor, whose _materia medica_ was a certificate,[49] that Abú, had he been quick, might have copied out; but he has become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away, if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar) to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route; but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.

Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine _gratis_. The people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home; but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister, who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work to do to-morrow.

Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.

Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.

Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offered to have the _Physician’s Vade Mecum_ translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.

Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.

Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.

Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.

Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.

Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept a _haik_ and a _sulham_, the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot: it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [Blank][52] I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53] How I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.

Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would have me take a _sulham_ from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him some _pezetas_. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.

Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so well. _Pilula et haustus_.[54] Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the more provoking, as couriers are going daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it _ü_ ϋ 99̂9 [Symbol] oo 8999 ξχρσγ[55] _ta a_; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die; if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.

Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.

Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.

Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.

Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw the _Bó-áb_, who will die; had some differences with the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired early to rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.

Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues[56] for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].

Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.

Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59] has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a _coup de soleil_: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.