Part 4

Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the city. Here is the _kubbah_ or záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï Abú Shu’eïb.[41] The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat, I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine, but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him, and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing [for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun stood at 70°, and at one P.M. touched upon 80°. The governor has sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the country: this he sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór, possessing the sacred _fauxbourg_ with the tombs of Múléï Bú Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs, &c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates; but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards: to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór, I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days; but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together, exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar, and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and soldiers said would be deducted from their _monnah_. Upon this there arose a good deal of contention. As the _monnah_ was for myself alone, I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning, which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the dogs, that are more fierce and numerous here than in any other place, I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.

Sunday, Jan. 9.—Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get off before the Mazazan[42] party and the governor, but failed to do so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to see why we were not _en route_. We found him on a hill that overlooks Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys, with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road; a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the Sheïkh and some of his people from the _dawár_, at which we are to stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent, with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the _monnah_ and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself, and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.

Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here than in any other part of the empire. At 10 A.M. we saw Jebel Khadr, rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau, from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer, who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great fear lest the tent should be carried away. The _monnah_ was very late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of the _dawár_. The weather cold.

Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted, and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town; here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.; thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then the _monnah_. I was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients; amongst them the governor, who came early.

Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We reached Suwaïníyah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. We pitched our tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers; there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although not sleepy.

Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Abú came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules, and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of Múláï Músá at four P.M., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers, and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.

Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá, situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco, but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large audience-chamber has two hutches in it, like the _cabouses_ of a Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however, taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43] the Moorish arch, and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind of _fanál_,[44] from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates, strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied, although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax, which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients; among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút, the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.

Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the báshá of the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners, who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace, mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door, which he requests may be securely fastened.

Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory, with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and, after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and, after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when, wrapped up in my _zulham_, I was led through the crowded bázár, and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way, came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged, and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to whom the horses belonged were then let out, and the minister came into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress; his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me, he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour, and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away, and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow, and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I was to be in readiness for the guard at seven A.M.

Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine, when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready, and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the horse on which my _hader_[46] rides is the most splendid animal I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces, and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery, where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages, whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several kiosks, very beautifully painted, and afterwards the garden of[47] [Blank]: from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48] extending above half a mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones, ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi (the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however, that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.

Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all these I was detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility; and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.

Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients, whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one of its grand market-days.