Part 3

Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh, which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war, and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and, after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s; but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that we could come to-morrow. Our _monnah_ was very poor; and the káïd sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us, intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having broken down, I was compelled to change her.

Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however, determined to enforce my right. This little _fracas_ has done some good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are principally black. Our _monnah_ came late, and by driblets. Six black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the _bishnah_, which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was covered with large quantities of _el kelakh_, a plant resembling fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time, we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.

Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we came to four fine _kubbahs_, buried almost in the sand. They are called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are two more _kubbahs_. We got well across the ford; but our baggage mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head: on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down, and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our _monnah_, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe, Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.

Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our _monnah_ had been small; but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way to Mehedíyah. We bought some _shibbel_, which we saw caught. It is a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We likewise saw here the _bishnah_ seed, of which the bread of the country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah, who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as the other refused the _monnah_ for the soldiers and muleteers, I would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31] There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.

Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On a circular hill there was a _kubbah_; and on each side the sloping hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage to come up. We passed outside the walls of Sallee, a fine large place, once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M., with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us, and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.

Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our window beautiful. We went to the _sók_,[33] where we saw the finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two _improvisatori_ from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians, the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were many fine mosques, and numerous _kubbah_. We proceeded then to the governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday; as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be pleased with the city; that he would then collect from four to five hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats, paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man, a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.

Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place, although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal lots of fun. The _monnah_ was sent as usual; sheep, fowls, beef, eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired of this, as I find that the _monnah_ is an inducement to spin out the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow; but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.

Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay, Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s; one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line, the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct, till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds, one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this portion of my journey under the most favourable circumstances. The whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow, is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene, and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel, to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback, followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying, and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort, as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off, when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present, just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave them two dollars; but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed, who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar, of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A _monnah_ was brought, with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day in which I felt somewhat lonely.

Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many traces of the wild boar. The road was covered with _durú_, which has replaced the _kelakh_, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain, which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through the ruins of Mansoríyah[38] and the town of Feḍáh, where a road turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá (the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up, than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing to the unsafe state of the country. He pointed out a spot opposite the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39] the son of the Emperor of Morocco, is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and our _monnah_ was extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for the wetting.

Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this ruin of a town, and part of our _monnah_, which the soldiers had sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven A.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest of _durú_; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water, full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood, but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.

Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at two A.M. found its way through the tents. My misery commenced at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my _zulham_ and carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricane came on from the sea, which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven A.M. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds with _shibbel_. After some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor, to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense _monnah_ of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done for Abú exceeds all conception.[40] The governor wishes me to remain here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to Morocco. We are all knocked up, and I must therefore consent. The tent is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.