Part 2

Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance, while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality, and all looking equally wretched. As the tide had flowed up while we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however, very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied, according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque; they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins[13] here are a better class of people than those who perform the same office in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my _háik_ for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for two dollars. The _zulham_ here answers to the _bornus_ of Egypt; the _jelábíyah_ are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for the arms to pass through.

Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.

Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven! it was a little further off.

Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge.

Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. 66°.

Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.

Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it.

Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.

Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.

Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow.

Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling, which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. _“Poco negro; cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.”_ Ben Káyed and Susa were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village, where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country, but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor, I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off, to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest, as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit, as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients; it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I told the father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent, and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.

Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16] or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground, where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh, a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne, to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables, and miserable _kuskusú_.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°, intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From this stone a shelving road leads to a well called _’Aïn tayyeb_ (good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the compass going round while we were taking the bearings of the place, for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me, together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried, and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say, it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones, one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others, each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes, and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg 16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15 feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us, and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and mules, together with the miserable population in the background, would have made an interesting group for a picture.

Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk, a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin, took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier, and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people of service to me? The soldier who came from the _dawárét_,[20] to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather, however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier, at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again, after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.

Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity of iron, of an ore-like[21] incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.

Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51°.

Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he were in heaven, brought a white _zulham_ for six dollars, and a Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish burial-ground to see the women. They have a strange custom here of putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots, upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage; those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family: she keeps the house for three months.

Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm.

Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.

Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.

Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.

Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.

Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.

Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.

Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.

Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.

Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.

Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.

Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?

Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.

Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now, the mules cannot be got ready. _Nunquam meus_. The weather very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.

Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another, and declining the honours of the grand _Hajj_[25] _As-sídí_, we got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My _cortège_ consisted of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my _monnah_ came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls, three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four _ardebs_[26] of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf, which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one, just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.

Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten, we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27] From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the western limit). Our _monnah_ soon began to make its appearance; it consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their appetites; for the soldiers have three _monnah_ of kuskasú in addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.

Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the _grinding-river_, (Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks, we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by mid-day, and see the town. Our _monnah_ to-day consisted of a cow, two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers, barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us, making up six tents.