Part 1

=NOTES= TAKEN DURING =TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=

=NOTES= TAKEN DURING =TRAVELS IN AFRICA,= BY THE LATE =JOHN DAVIDSON, F.R.S. F.S.A., &c.=

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PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY.

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LONDON: PRINTED BY J. L. COX AND SONS, 75, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS. * * * * * 1839.

ADVERTISEMENT.

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To gratify the earnest desire expressed by the Friends of the late Mr. DAVIDSON to possess some memorial of him, his Brother has been induced to print, for private distribution merely, the following pages, drawn up from his MS. Journal.

It will be seen that they are only rough and brief notes penned at the moment, and under circumstances the most trying to an active mind, and with a presentiment of failure, which has been too truly realized.

For the generally correct manner in which the names of persons and places are here given, and which in the MS. were decyphered with difficulty, Mr. Davidson’s Brother has to offer his best thanks to the Rev. G. Renouard and Capt. Washington, of the Royal Geographical Society of London.

CONTENTS.

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Page

Mr. Davidson’s Notes, kept in the form of a Journal 1

Loose Memoranda found amongst Mr. Davidson’s Papers 165

Letters from Captain Washington to Mr. Davidson 168

Mr. Davidson’s Replies to Queries 175

Extracts from Mr. Davidson’s Letters 176

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APPENDIX.

Extracts from the Correspondence of Mr. Davidson, during his Residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further progress in the Desert 181

Account of Mr. Davidson’s Death, extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society 202

History of Abou, extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society 208

Mr. Hay’s Letter, referred to in the Notes, and Reply thereto 215

=NOTES= TAKEN DURING =TRAVELS IN AFRICA.=

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On Saturday, August 29, 1835, we left London by the mail, and arrived the morning following at Exeter, where we went to the cathedral, which Abou called one of the bishops’ churches. We proceeded the same evening to Falmouth, which we reached on Monday 31st. During the journey, Abou’s remarks were highly creditable to him; he expressed himself quite astonished at the rate of travelling, which he had ascertained by comparing the mile-stones we had passed with the time, as indicated by a watch; nor was he less struck with the quickness of changing horses, the punctuality in the arrival of the mail, and the manner in which one bag is delivered, and another received, while the coach is going on. In the whole country, he said very prettily, no place for more than a mile could be seen without a _settlement_; all is productive: no misery. He wound up his reflections with the words,—‘Good king! good people!—African people all blind: not know their own good, else they would ask Englishmen to come and teach them.’

On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise, and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.

On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the _Sarah Nigritia_, and got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell, which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater difficulties present themselves on land.

On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came off to give us _pratique_ I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good breakfast at the _Posada Inglaterra_, I proceeded to the Franciscan convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best taste of architecture. I returned to an _omelette_ and a segar, and water and _rien de plus_; strolled afterwards through the town, celebrated alike for _mostachas_ and _mantillas_, for playful fans, bronze faces, and pretty feet.

At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.

At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.

Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too, for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.

Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them, they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his Majesty’s _hakeem_ (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit: he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed during the interview were of an official and confidential nature, I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s, whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.

The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.

Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.

Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2] Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.

Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen, _I calculate_, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay, to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see what the result will be.

Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is _too bad_, and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay, which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.

Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]

Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].

Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came _slick_ through the house, and the weather was very cold.

Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.]

Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.

Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the _Bocca Leonie_, it made our ride about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.

Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to St. Roques’. Was disappointed.

Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The _Jasseim_ sailed.[3]

Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next.

Friday, Oct. 23.—The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.

Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore.

Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael’s cave.

Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.

Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan _incog._ with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day after to-morrow.

Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I now mean to go to Tangier.

Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.

Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a vengeance.

Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the _Jasseim_ has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.

Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.

Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the _Jasseim_. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve P.M.

Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.

Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return _mona_—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.

Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.

Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled, were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, &c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6] of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies “_rárá_,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.

Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.

Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.

Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.

Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.

Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums; a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued through the whole night.

Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word _bahkshísh_[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the Consul-general. Saw the game of _powder_[10] (_la’b-el-báród_) played, myself on horseback and the Doctor[11] on foot. Fell in with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf[12] and his long gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party, the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made, but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight, a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall get a little rest.