Part 7

Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.

Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.

Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.

Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well.

Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture); it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart: the night cold.

Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.; the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but not being very well, retired early to rest.

Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire.

Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison, together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women: many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound; bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs, three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.

Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of patients. Felt rather poorly.

Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’ town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself, and had to lie by.

Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill; the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.

Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea, and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part of the day.

Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at the end of the week.

Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not very well: began with my vocabulary.

Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún; it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú, if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients.

Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get rid of him entirely.

Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.

Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.

Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home, and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the _bocca larga_. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind: it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get off.

Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú; Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah; all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.

Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with my patients, all of whom are doing well.

Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up; busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún: employed in preparations for starting.

Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from the _M’hor_, which is a kind of antelope, and are called _selsí_ in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application: it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.

Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.

Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.

Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.

Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients; glad to get off.

Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate

نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين

nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people; the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.

Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.

Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.

Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the _euphorbium_, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.

Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.

Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive, the year will be an abundant one, and _vice versa_. Walked out to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír, Mashallah!

Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself, although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.