Part 16

“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had, demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing: that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe, excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.

“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five, including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far exceeded my expectations.”

In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear, but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October 7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before this reaches you,” he says, “I shall be wending my way over Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter, think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”

The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an English passport, as he intended to travel _à l’Anglaise_, for the French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor, to travel _en Prince_ with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity, will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll— No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind me of the old proverb—‘_Tel Padron, tel Secretoire_.’ I will, however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write _hard_ scratches. I know it—I have only _steel_ pens.” So too when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for the assertion.”

Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha, he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder than any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some, slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.

Pol me occidistis, amici,

Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas

Et demptus per vim menti gratissimus error.”

In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children, and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes; the wool from them gives him from four to six _haicks_ and a carpet; his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”

_Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal._[126]

The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, _i.e._ dissenters. They refuse to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur, and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.

The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there are many.

In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, _i.e._ swift dromedaries, are bred.

In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, _i.e._ writers.

In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use.

In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves; but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.

In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of whom ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors, and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other, but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’ journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.

The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed or omitted.

The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin, water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back, and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to prevent the earth from touching it.

Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water is plentiful.”

The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah, the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.

The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm, is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.

Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in its movements. I saw one June 8th.

The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called the serpent’s enemy.

One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed between the bull and mare.

The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are diseases not known at Wád Nún.

The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.

There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey, the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a large dray-horse, red with white stripes and two horns turning back, called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do, out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species, but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers; but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna, are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are, however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes, called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites will take the meat out of the people’s hands.

_The direction of the Letter to Hámed Libbú._

Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú, renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort him. _Amen_.

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[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding H.M.S. _Scorpion_, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather, and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here, as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]

“Royal Geographical Society of London, “SIR: 11th November 1837.

“I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating to the lower part of Sús, in the empire of Marocco; especially with regard to the rivers Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, or Asaka, Wad Mesah, &c.; as your visit to Wad Nún, in order to communicate with Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of them, I take the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions, which may be found useful in collecting geographical information:

“I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett’s recent survey of that coast, and an extract from Mr. Davidson’s letter from Wad Nún—if you read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of what we want:

“1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantín, as the ruined town of Walidíyah is said there to exist in about 33° or 33° 15′ N. lat.—describe the situation of the towns, and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles in diameter said to exist—the opening, if any, must be very small.

“2. Four miles southward of Cape Gír, the Wád Sús falls into the sea; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream flows to the sea; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name—Is it Wád Mésah?

“3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the sea; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name.

“4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-stá, falls into the Atlantic; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name.

“5. A few miles south of Cape Nún, a large river has its outlet; what is its name?—Is it Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, Wad Asaka or Wad Akassa, or Wád el Aksá, or none of them?

“6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about twenty-five miles south of the last-mentioned?

“7. Does any river, called Wád Dar’ah, fall into the sea? according to our maps it loses itself in the interior.

“8. The town of Wad Nún will probably be found at about forty miles from the sea; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks, rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar.

“9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long. of the place, its height above the sea; describe its position, estimate its population, &c.

“10. Does it stand on the banks of a river?—if so, what is its name—where does it flow from—is it said to be dry in the summer season—and is it at other times navigable for boats?

“11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all mountain-peaks in sight from the town; and give the general direction of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it.

“12. Ascertain how many days’ journey from Wad Nún (town) to Akkah, to Sók-Assah, to Talent, and to ’Agadír; and, if possible, obtain itineraries from natives.

“13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantín southward, and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the parallel of Mogadór, there is no object in keeping close in shore, it would be better to run down at such an offing as will enable you to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast may conceal.

“14. From a little experience among the Moors, I may venture to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gunpowder, snuff or tea, but especially of the former, will obtain you all you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations, if you persuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt you. Whether their watches keep time or not, is of no importance.

“15. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings, and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer, left on board, be kept while you are up the country.

“16. It will be very advisable to take with you your Assistant-Surgeon, if he can be spared, as medical advice, and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other knowledge—besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention to the natural history of the country; or at least to collect a few plants and some geological specimens: if you can also take with you a draughtsman it will be very desirable.

“17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable; note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so good as to preserve your _original_ notes and observations, and mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogadór (or according to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff, tea, gaudily printed cotton handkerchiefs, which are valued in the order I have placed them.

“Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these suggestions, and heartily wishing you success,

“I have the honour to be, &c.

“To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. _Scorpion_.” “JOHN WASHINGTON.”

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“Royal Geographical Society of London, “SIR: 26th October 1836.

“I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, dated Wad Nún the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear that you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers of sending you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find you at Wad Nún, I write to say that any details relating to the topography of your immediate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of the country you have lately traversed, between Mogadór and Wad Nún.

“To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, requesting you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may be relied on or not.

“1. Does a river called Wad Dar’ah pass through the town of Wad Nún, and does it flow to the sea?

“2. Do you know Wad Tegréwelt, and where is its outlet?

“3. Is Wad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad Mésah, and where is its embouchure?

“4. Is the town of Mésah on its banks, and how far from the coast?

“5. How far south of the river Sús does the river Mésah flow into the sea?

“6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet?

“7. How far is Mésah from ’Agúlú?

“8. How far is the town of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús? or from Santa Cruz?

“9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sús, named Rás-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E.S.E. of Tárúdánt, running fifty miles to the S.W. circling round Mount Elálah, then flowing north fifty miles to join the river Sús, can you ascertain if this is correct?

“10. How far is Tedsí from Tárúdánt?

“11. Riley mentions Wád-e-Stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz, does it exist, and where?

“12. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the river Assah or Mésah, and if so, how far from Mésah or from each other?

“13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is it the river Reguela of Arlett’s chart?

“14. Is the river Nún also called the river Akása?

“15. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward, of Cape Nún, of any extent and where is its source? Is any town situated on it?

“16. Is there any large town between Istúkah and Nún?

“17. Can you give a tolerable estimate of the population of any of the places above-mentioned?

“19. You state Adrar to be fifty miles south of the position assigned in our maps. Is not Adrar the name of a range of mountains, not of a town?

“Pray excuse these detailed questions, but seeing the confusion in our maps, and knowing your zeal in the cause of geography, I venture to trouble you with them; let me recommend you, if possible to send duplicates of your information at every opportunity, for while travelling, in a wild and uncivilized country especially, it is difficult to ensure the safety of your papers.

“Mr. Renouard is well, and thanks Abú Bekr for his remembrances: he desires his kind regards to you and to him.

“Accept, dear Sir, our best and warmest wishes for your success; yet let me entreat you not to endanger unnecessarily your life even with the hope of accomplishing your journey to Tumbúktú; for however desirable it may be to reach that place, it is not worth risking life to obtain it.

“I am, very faithfully yours,

“(Signed) JOHN WASHINGTON.

“John Davidson, Esq., Wad Nún.”

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[The following letter was addressed to Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire at Mogadór, but forwarded by that gentleman to Mr. Davidson, who endorsed upon it the annexed answers to the questions contained in it.]