Part 17

“United Service Club, Charles Street, St. James’s, “DEAR SIR: London, 1st March 1836.

“From your kindness and civility towards my friend, Lieut. Arlett, who visited Mogadór, in command of H.M.S. _Etna_, and your readiness to give him all the information in your power, I feel no hesitation, although an entire stranger, in writing to you, to beg more information relating to the southern part of the empire of Marocco; as, in consequence of Arlett’s late survey having cut off a large slice from our maps between Santa Cruz and Cape Nún, several towns, such as Istúkah, Nún, &c. must be wrongly placed; if you can supply any notes on the subject, I shall feel much obliged to you, and shall gladly make use of them to correct our maps.

“I may mention that I feel the more interested in this country, having accompanied Mr. Drummond Hay in his visit to the city of Marocco, in 1830, and thus having had the opportunity of correcting the map of the more northern parts of the empire.

“I have the pleasure to enclose for your acceptance, the best map hitherto published of Marocco, that of Count Grăberg af Hemsö, and to beg you will point out all the errors that you may be enabled to detect. In order to save you some trouble, I have drawn up a few questions, begging you, when you do not give the answer from personal knowledge, to state on what authority it is given, and whether you think it may be relied on.

“1. How far south of the river Sús does the river of Mésah flow into the sea; and is it known by that name to the natives, or by what?

“2. How far from its mouth is the town of Mésah situated?

“3. Is it a place of any importance now, and what may be its population?

“4. Does a river Assah exist? if so, where is its outlet? or are Assah and Mésah the same river? is either known by the name of Tesset?

“5. How far is the town of Mésah from ’Agulú?

“6. How far is the city of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús, or from Santa Cruz?

“7. What is the name of the stream just south of Mogadór? is it Wad al Ghored? and is it a stream of any size or extent? where is its source?

“8. The map represents a branch of the river Sús, named Ras-el-Wad, winding round Mount Elalah, and joining the Sús at Tárúdánt; does such a river exist, and is this any thing like its course?

“9. How far is Tedsi from Tárúdánt?

“10. Riley mentions Wad-e-stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz; is it rightly named, and where is its outlet?

“11. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the Assah or Mésah; and if so, how far from Mésah, or from each other?

“12. Does a place called Gueder, or Port Hillsborough, exist? or is it the Wad Reguela of Arlett’s Chart?

“13. Does a town called Wad Nún exist? or is it the name of a river, or of the country?

“14. How far is the town of Nún from the mouth of the river Nún, or from Cape Nún? and is it situated on the river Nún?

“15. Has the river Nún any other name? either Akassa or Wad-el-aksa?

“16. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward of Cape Nún, of any extent, and where is its source? is any town situated on it?

“17. Is there any town between Istúkah and Nún? how far is Ufaran from Talent?

“18. Can you give a tolerable guess at the population of any of the towns mentioned? and especially of Mogadór, Santa Cruz, &c., and the number of Jews they contain?

“Any other geographical information, towards correcting our maps will be thankfully received. May I beg you to take as early an opportunity as you conveniently can to answer these questions, and with every apology for the trouble I am giving

“Believe me, my dear Sir, faithfully yours,

(Signed) “JOHN WASHINGTON.”

[The following replies were written by Mr. Davidson.]

“Question 1. About fifty-four miles—it is known by the name of Wad Mesah, and also called Wholgrass [?]

“2. The town is Assah, distant about two miles—a few scattered houses on each side to within half a mile of the sea.

“3. Of no importance; famed only for having near it a Tuesday market, to which many people resort—its population may be one hundred persons.

“4. Assah is the name of the district through which the river Mesah flows: neither is known by the name of Tesset.

“5. From ’Agulú fifteen miles; large town with a population of about six hundred.

“6. Equidistant; about thirty miles from each; and visible from both.

“8. The Rás el Wad comes directly from the mountains, and passes by Tárúdánt where it takes the name of Sús.

“9. Tedsi is about twenty miles E.N.E. of Tárúdánt.

“10. I can learn nothing of Wad-e-Stá.

“11. There is no town called Stuka, it is a district; none that I can find, called Talent, there is _Tilin_; the Mesah flows through Stuka, in which district are twenty settlements, or towns if you like, some of them are large; they are known in general by the name of the Sheïkhs who inhabit them, I stopped at Sheïkh Hamed’s; Tilin was distant from this spot a day’s journey in the mountains towards the source of the river.

“12. This place is called _Isgueder_ but not known by the name of Port Hillsborough; the people called the small river here _Edaoguma_; on this stream are twenty-five mills.

“13. Wad Nún is a large district having many clusters of habitations; the town where the Sheïkh resides is of a good size; has a Millah and a good market; it stands on the river (such as it is), distant twenty-two miles from the sea.

“15. Wad el _Aisa_ comes from the mountains above _Sok Aisa_, and as it passes through the district of Wad Nún, it takes the name of _Assaka_.

“16. I have not yet been beyond two miles south of Wad Nún.

“17. There are at least twenty villages between Stuka and Wad Nún. If by Talent, _Tissert_ is meant. Oferen is distant six miles.

“18. Population of Agadir forty-seven Mohammedans; Jews thirteen heads of families, and with their children amount to sixty-two. At Fonte, which is the port, about two hundred—no Jews.”

* * * * *

EXTRACTS FROM MR. DAVIDSON’S LETTERS.

The following extracts are given with the view of explaining some allusions made in the Journal.

In a letter to Mr. G. D———d, Mr. Davidson says, “after endeavouring to enter Africa _in forma pauperis_, I tried another tack, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals, and embarking in a brig of war the ‘Jasséen,’ landed at Tangier under a salute of eleven guns. This stamped me at once as a great man; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of greatness, I find it not very pleasant here, for I have Messúd, my Jewish interpreter, and Ben Hayed, my Moorish interpreter, and I can hardly stir without both being on the alert, the one watching my mouth, the other my eye.”

Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says, “the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my kindness to Abú, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk: I am very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself, I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews, and taking snuff with the Moors.”

Speaking of the Mona he observes, “I had to pay for a sheep, fowls, eggs, bread, and preserves, but being neither butcher, poulterer, baker or confectioner, the things were of little use to me. They call the present _Mona_, which may mean _Manna_; and as these vagabonds call themselves the image of God upon earth, they think it enough if they give only food.”

In allusion to the _Lob el Barool_ he says, “It is literally ‘the game of smoke,’ and played by soldiers on horseback, who fire off their guns with only blank cartridges; but sometimes they put in a ball, which is sure to strike, of course by mere accident, a Christian.”

With regard to the ruins near the outset, Mr. D. seems to think they are Druidical, and he compares them with the remains of Stonehenge in Wiltshire.

Speaking of his medical life in Africa, he says, “all whom I cure come to be paid for allowing me to improve myself in my profession, and demand a piece of coin for every dose they have been taking; while those I fail to cure abuse me for want of skill, and threaten to shorten my life for not prolonging theirs.”

The allusion to the electrical horse will be best explained by the following letter, written by Mr. D. to Professor Faraday, and by whom it was read at the Royal Institution.

“The great interest you take in all matters relating to electricity, and the great advantages which have resulted from your researches in that science, induce me to call your attention to a circumstance, perhaps not new to you, but which has recently fallen under my own observation. I received from the Sultan of Marocco the present of a horse of a peculiar breed, and as every person in this country is his own groom, I observed a peculiar tingling sensation in the hand on dressing the neck of the animal; this I attributed at first to the dirt and vermin with which the poor animals here are infested, and then thought no more of it. On leaving Marocco I proceeded towards the Atlas; and whenever I had occasion to consult my compass I found it extremely difficult, nay, impossible to keep it steady. I supposed this was owing to my sword and pistol; but as I wore these, when walking, without observing the same deflection, I dismounted, and holding the compass, I still perceived the same effect as long as I held it near the horse’s head; but when I left the animal, and put the instrument on the ground, the needle settled to its point. After a little reflection, the effect produced on my hand by rubbing the horse’s neck on the near side occurred to me; when repeating the experiment, I could perceive several distinct intimations of the same tingling sensation. We proceeded to our halt; and as soon as the party had sat down to their evening meal, I began to examine into the matter more closely. It was now dusk; on passing my hand down the neck, not only could I hear distinctly the electrical detonation, but perceive a quantity of sparks; both were such as would be produced by rubbing the large plate machine at the Royal Institution. Thinking the effect might still have been produced by animalculæ, and intending to visit the following day the ruins of Trassermant, I ordered the horse to be well washed in the morning. On pouring water over his neck, I found a peculiar spasmodic action produced, which did not take place when it was poured upon any other part of the body, not even on the off-side of the neck, on which fell the mane. Ascending the lower part of the mountain chain toward the snow, the effect was scarcely visible; but on returning to the valley, it was considerably increased, and especially after the animal had been well washed and dried. Approaching the sea, it became more powerful, and at Mogadór I got several persons to witness the phenomenon. I was here told by the kaid, who had accompanied me from Marocco, to take great care of the animal; that there were very few of them in the country, and that the Sultán seldom gave them away; that it was not only a horse of high blood but of fire, and it would never tire. It has done a great deal of hard work, and fully bears out the character given of him. I have moreover observed, on touching him with the spur, or when he is excited by the firing of a gun, or the sight of other horses, that a violent action is produced on this side of the neck. Upon entering the desert, the effect nearly disappeared, and at the same time a great portion of his courage, although he continued to do his work well. The difference may, however, be owing to the great change from an abundant to a spare diet, and to his sympathising with his master by shewing more bone than flesh, as our meals are reduced to one a-day. Can the colour have any thing to do with it? He is golden dun, with a black mane and tail. I have seen but three of the same hue, two in the stables of the Sultán, and the third in the possession of the Sheïkh of Stuka; but I could not obtain permission to examine them. I am very anxious to send him to England; but I fear it will be impossible, as the whole of the persons in power in Marocco are so incensed against me for having eluded their vigilance, and succeeded in getting out of the empire upon the direct track of the gold district, that I am told that no favour would now be granted, and that if I come back, I shall rue what I have done in passing to this place. The road is now open to me: my intention is not to follow the caravan route, but to proceed with a small escort and a few camels by the road the couriers take, and thus obtain a new line and bearing to establish the position of Tumbuktú. I had made a collection for the Royal Institution of some mineralogical and fossil specimens; amongst which were many of copper, antimony and lead, and what they here call brass (_nhas asfer_). The last was obtained, but with difficulty, for Professor Berzelius, at the request of the consul-general at Tangiers. But having to lighten my baggage, when passing through Lower Suse, the mule-load of stones had to be sent away, with a promise that they should be forwarded to Mogadór. They were addressed to yourself, with a request to send the duplicates to the professor at Stockholm. I fear much they will never reach you, as a Berber told me the people will be sure to think they contain gold, and they will all be sent to the furnace.”

It appears, however, by a letter to Mr. Drummond Hay, that Sheïkh Alí subsequently told Mr. Davidson, that finding they were only stones, he, the Sheïkh, had thrown them away, but had kept the baskets.

In allusion to the project of making Agadeer the port for sending goods into the interior of Africa, he says, that the people there asserted that the story circulated of the insecure state of property in that country was unfounded; that such reports were spread by the people of Mogadór, who feared that foreigners would come and settle there, if it was thought that trade could be carried on with Suse better by that route than the old one. It was this very dread of the trade being directed into a new channel, that seems to have thrown such impediments in the way of Mr. D.’s journey to Tumbuktú.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: This was the agent of the Emperor of Morocco, then residing, as a merchant, at Gibraltar. He died lately, leaving a fortune of 3,000,000 dollars.]

[Footnote 2: The opposition of Mr. Hay arose from his fears of the perilous nature of Mr. Davidson’s enterprize, and his unwillingness, therefore, to take upon himself any responsibility. This is distinctly shewn by Mr. Hay’s letter, given in the Appendix.]

[Footnote 3: This is the name of a vessel whose arrival is noted on Nov. 8. It had probably carried Mr. Hay from Gibraltar to Tangier, and then returned for the purpose of conveying Mr. Hay’s son thither, on his arrival from England.]

[Footnote 4: This is the Moorish name for a market-place.]

[Footnote 5: Fantasia is said of a fair intended for pleasure only, and not for business.]

[Footnote 6: This is the name of the highest hill in the Mexican Cordillera of the Andes.]

[Footnote 7: _Lálá_ is Lady in Arabic, and _r_ is sometimes substituted for _l_.]

[Footnote 8: So in the MS.]

[Footnote 9: This is a Persian word for _a present_, and, though common in Turkey, not used in Morocco.]

[Footnote 10: This is a kind of a tilt, where one party endeavours to unhorse the other.]

[Footnote 11: Who the Doctor was is not told by Mr. D.]

[Footnote 12: This is the name of a province of Morocco. Two of the Ríf guns were sent to London and are in the possession of Mr. D.’s brother.]

[Footnote 13: Persons attached to a mosque, whose business is to call the faithful to prayers. The word is pronounced Mu-edkdhin by the Arabs, and Mu-ezzin by the Turks, Persians, and Indians.]

[Footnote 14: This was a place so called by its modern name: its former one was Emsórah, as stated a little farther on. It is properly Autád (pegs or stakes), but the Moors often confound _t_ and _th_, which latter they generally pronounce _ts_. The long _á_ has often the sound of _é_, and the final _d_ becomes _t_.]

[Footnote 15: _Adwár_, or _dawár_; it is used to signify a village; it is properly a circular encampment.]

[Footnote 16: For Mesbrah or Musawwesah (sculptured).]

[Footnote 17: This is a dish of grain, rice, &c. prepared as food for the common people, which they eat in immense quantities. It appears to be not unlike the _piláú_, the favourite dish of the Turks.]

[Footnote 18: The following account cannot fail to strike those who have seen or heard of the circles at Stonehenge.]

[Footnote 19: Mr. D. seems to allude here to a similar tradition in some part of Ireland.]

[Footnote 20: Adwárátie, _i.e._ villages.]

[Footnote 21: Specimens of the ore were sent to the Royal Institution.]

[Footnote 22: Perhaps Mr. D. had in his mind the passage in Shakspeare, where Catherine says, “Asses were made to bear, and so shall you;” to which Petruchio replies, “Women were made to bear, and so shall you.”]

[Footnote 23: They are said to live chiefly on milk.]

[Footnote 24: These helmets and guns were sent to London, and are now in the possession of the brother of Mr. D.]

[Footnote 25: So in the MS.]

[Footnote 26: An Ardeb, equal to about 3½ bushels, is a common measure in Egypt; and as Mr. Davidson had travelled in that country, he might easily suppose they spoke of Ardebs, when he heard them mention Arrobas (Alrob’ah, a quart.)]

[Footnote 27: So, too, the French have lately discovered some Roman ruins at Setif in Africa. A triumphal arch, erected in honour of Caracalla, has been also found at Jemmílah, together with a Roman causeway, that unites those two places.—See _Times_, Feb. 4, 1839.]

[Footnote 28: Wád el Áyéshah (the cheering river) is crossed before the traveller reaches Fahs-el-ríhán. See map (Geogr. Journ. i. 124.)]

[Footnote 29: During the Ramadán, the Muselmán takes nothing between sun-rise and sun-set; but afterwards makes up for his abstinence by eating voraciously.]

[Footnote 30: This will be understood by comparing the dates of the three preceding days.]

[Footnote 31: The last Chapter in the Korán.]

[Footnote 32: Called Mináreh, or Mináret, by Persians, Turks, and Eastern Arabs.]

[Footnote 33: Market-place.]

[Footnote 34: The Millah is the part of a Moorish town where the Jews reside.]

[Footnote 35: It is probable that, as the news of Mr. D.’s journey to Morocco had preceded him, the chief, who met him on this occasion, had, like many others, come with the view of extorting a present in return for the civility shown to an English traveller.]

[Footnote 36: This is probably a Moorish expression, to denote a trifling present.]

[Footnote 37: So in the map; in the MS. ‘Sheivra or Sheraga.’]

[Footnote 38: In the map, ‘Mansoría.’]

[Footnote 39: For Ahmed a transposition of letters common among the Moors, who say Embárek, for Mobárek; Imhammed for Mohammed, &c.]

[Footnote 40: All travellers in Morocco agree in stating that Christians are held there in the greatest detestation; nor could the Moors understand the motives that led Mr. D. to act the kindly part he did towards Abú, who had been at once a Musulman, a negro, and a slave.]

[Footnote 41: “Azammór of Sheïkh Shu’eïb,” says Abú-l-Fedá in his Geography of Africa, page 4.]

[Footnote 42: Properly Mazíghan.]

[Footnote 43: Marking the direction of Mecca, to which the Muselmán must turn when praying.]

[Footnote 44: This is the Spanish and Moorish word for a light-house, lantern, or watch-tower.]

[Footnote 45: So in MS. Mr. D. seems to have again lost his reckoning.]

[Footnote 46: So in MS.]

[Footnote 47: Here is a blank in the manuscript; most probably the garden of Reduan. See plan of the city of Marocco in _London Geographical Journal_, vol. i.]

[Footnote 48: So in MS.]

[Footnote 49: So in the MS.]

[Footnote 50: Pieces of the Korán are used by the Moorish doctors as charms—a superstition that Mr. D. probably adopted to humour his patients, but which the minister was surprised to find an English physician resorting to. Knowing how acceptable verses from the Korán are to Mussulmans, Mr. Davidson had a selection printed on slips of coloured paper before he left London.]

[Footnote 51: Mr. D. is here speaking metaphorically. He conceived that the Kaid of Mogador wished to get at his motive for visiting Timbuctoo; he therefore gave him no clue, by saying nothing on the subject. It is a slang metaphor.]

[Footnote 52: So in the original MS., with a blank.]

[Footnote 53: This was taken by the French during their attack on Algiers.]

[Footnote 54: Took a pill and a draught.]

[Footnote 55: These letters make the nearest approach to the marks in the MS.]

[Footnote 56: These are dresses worn by the Jewish priests; they were sent to London.]

[Footnote 57: So in the MS.]

[Footnote 58: These were two medicine chests sent to the Emperor of Morocco from London.]

[Footnote 59: Eunuch.]

[Footnote 60: So in MS. Mr. D. probably alluded to the black Towáshi.]

[Footnote 61: _i.e._ Writer.]

[Footnote 62: This dress was never received; nor is any further mention made of it in the letters.]

[Footnote 63: These are damascened in gold, and are now in England.]

[Footnote 64: So in MS.]

[Footnote 65: The number of feet is not given in the journal; but as this place was also visited in January 1830, by Mr. Drummond Hay and his party, who carried a good barometer with them, we know that it is elevated about 1,800 feet above the city of Marocco, and 3,000 feet above the sea. See _London Geographical Journal_, vol. i. p. 150.]

[Footnote 66: So in MS.]

[Footnote 67: Or Shulúh, the plural of Shilhah.]

[Footnote 68: Some specimens of these were sent to London.]

[Footnote 69: Capt. Washington, who went over this ground, says that the _douars_ or _adwars_, here alluded to, are in reality villages with stone houses. ED.]

[Footnote 70: These were presented at Mr. D.’s desire to the Royal Institution.]

[Footnote 71: That is, from leaving Tasremút.]

[Footnote 72: N.N.W.?]

[Footnote 73: This is called in some maps _Imizmizi_.]

[Footnote 74: Pronounced Hámet by the Moors, who frequently invert the first letters of names, and say Imhammet for Mohammed.]

[Footnote 75: Scoundrels.]

[Footnote 76: This was brought, in all likelihood, for purchase, as Mr. D. was very fond of all sorts of arms, and had sent many kinds of daggers to England.]

[Footnote 77: _Elæodendron Argan_, from the berries of which an oil much used in Marocco, is extracted.]

[Footnote 78: Mubárek.]

[Footnote 79: So in MS.]

[Footnote 80: Places in Africa have frequently two names—one Buber, and the other Arabic. (Zemima?)]

[Footnote 81: This is a kind of sham-fight, in which the parties charge each other at full gallop, and after firing their pistols at the horses’ feet wheel round. It is a favourite amusement with the Moors and Arabs.]

[Footnote 82: This place is called also Santa Cruz.]

[Footnote 83: The place of prayer, oratory.]

[Footnote 84: Name of Mohammedan Saints.]

[Footnote 85: First chapter of the Korán, used as the Lord’s Prayer is by Christians.]

[Footnote 86: This is a preparation of grain, or rather grits, and forms, like oatmeal in Scotland, the food of the common people in Súdán, where it is called Mogús.]

[Footnote 87: People of Sús.]

[Footnote 88: Caravan.]

[Footnote 89: This person was the agent to the Sheïkh of Wád Nún.]

[Footnote 90: His illness had commenced by his having had some of his ribs broken; to cure which, he had been hung up by his hands: but this had been carried too far.]

[Footnote 91: Friendship for thee!]