Part 15

“I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultán. My friend, G. D———d, tells me that two such chests were never sent from any house: besides the medicines, ............ of silver, glass and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye, and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other powders for Sídí Ben Alí. All these I know have been sent, and I have paid for them: their non-arrival is owing probably to the want of proper directions to the Káïd of Tangier to forward them on: the matter should be really looked into for the national credit.

“Sunday.—Some observations have been made about my bones, and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the Sheïkh’s party in the garden, to which they all thought I should go; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I have got no bread as yet.

“Wednesday Evening.—Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached this place yesterday evening: the messenger wanted to return this day; but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday I have been upon my carpet alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wád Nún: my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters and gargling, and fearing suffocation, I was about to cut a hole in my throat to admit of breathing; but Hájí ’Abíb, the Sheïkh, the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country; and for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of this secretion has quite astonished me: there has been a continued discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above a quart. Hámed has been particularly attentive, and so have all; and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall bleed myself till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do, perhaps, wrong in writing, but I know your kindness and good feeling would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through any other channel.

“I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are to go: Hámed says, it is not the Sheïkh’s fault; that the times are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after; and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be off to-morrow. I have sent Abú to see about some cakes from the Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered.

“I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Sheïkh, and telling him that it will be time enough to think of commercial intercourse, as soon as he should have performed his engagements with me, and for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins to feel alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write now what he has disclosed; but I shall be at him again before the messenger departs.

“Friday night.—I am much better, although I do not consider myself quite out of danger. I was obliged to make four incisions in the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this place; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheïkh and his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufferings. Abú is quite useless: his fear makes him totally helpless; but this only serves to rouse me. Hájí Abíb’s servant, Fahir, has certainly saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave his master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first made the offer for me to take him: but I believe the wretches here do not wish the boy to go back to Súdán, as he knows too many of their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits; all my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in whose career and my own are many singular coincidences, started in nearly the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abyssinia of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded; and so, perhaps, may I; but my hopes are very faint.

“Saturday, four P.M.—I have this day spoken again to the Sheïkh; but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abíb to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that I cannot get through Súdán before the rainy season commences, and it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving them out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheïkh and Majíbí have played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for you or me: the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive that you have a great idea of his influence; but a week’s residence here would convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants, not a soul would go out of the way to serve him; he is a mean, low, avaricious, and crafty savage; an arrant coward, and one who grudges even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there is some danger in his taking offence: you need not fear on that head, as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again.

“Sunday, P.M.—I have told the Sheïkh, that as the 15th October is now past, my orders were to wait no longer; and that as the Taghakánths had not made their appearance, I expected he would either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps for proceeding to Tumbuktú. I had just laid down, after having read the prayers, and while Abú was at the market, when I heard some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheïkh, Abíb, and Hámed. The first was foaming with rage; the second blushing up to his turban; while Hámed was sinking to the ground, like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it was too much for me: being, however, an old soldier in argument, and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found that some reports from Suweïrah had reached this place, accusing the Sheïkh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half the money of the Taghakánths for himself; and that the scandal had even extended to Fez. The Sheïkh asked, in a threatening manner, if Hámed had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had I not done so, the Sheïkh, I am certain, would have killed the lad on the spot. The Sheïkh then broke out in no measured terms against all of us; and though he confessed I had good reason to complain, he swore he had not taken a single morznum for himself; and that he would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly, that all he had of mine was a gun, a caftan, and three suílhams; and he would give them back, and I might make out my bill for the other things, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Abú returned, and I requested him to tell the Sheïkh, that I was not a merchant, and knew nothing about bills; that if he found any difficulty in fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one; he had only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to Hámed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me; that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hámed, and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents; bring his father and people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by Abíb, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Sheïkh’s character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you, that he has taken the Taghakánths’ money, and was now unwilling to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the Sheïkh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and left us, saying that, if the Taghakánths did not come in ten or fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadír. As soon as he was gone, I told Abíb that, from the size of the parcels given me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hámed Mulid, I did believe they had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the second half to me and not to the Sheïkh, and I would pay it over to the Taghakánths, or to him, if they stated they had received the whole sum. At this moment the Sheïkh returned, and muttered something about the Taghakánths owing him money, and that if he had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is probably what led Hámed to believe and say that the Sheïkh had paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hámed was now left alone with us. He said the Sheïkh would murder him, if he knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to get his horse; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abíb says, he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen days. Sídí Alí Ben Ilft told Abú in the market to-day, that if we get away in less than a month, he would give me leave to cut off his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sídí Alí has been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that his going is connected with my movements. I am sorry I can give you no certain news about the Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am making Abú collect whatever information he can pick up. News has just been brought that the Taghakánths are moving their tents, as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the káfilah as soon as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simúm, with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I have a low ague; but feel too much pain in the chest when I cough to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves I have reason to be glad of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very indifferent and dear; I hope I shall now get the bread.”

The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wád Nún, relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by Mr. Willshire, and which have been already printed in the Journal of the Geographical Society. It is dated

“Saturday, Nov. 5, 1836.

“My pen almost refuses to write Wád Nún. Your kind letter reached me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am happy to say my health is improving fast; but I cannot say much about my confidence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on Monday; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with which Abú starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if I had sent him on; Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk, and about a half-dozen horsemen, and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the district of Wád Nún; and to that place is a three days’ journey for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents. It has been positively stated to the Sheïkh, that we are to stop only the night at the tents; but this is false: I have become so used to the language of the Taghakánths, that I understand more than they think; and I heard that we should be there two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in the shortest time possible. Berúk says thirty days; my conductor, however, adds five or six; to this, he says, that we shall go as a post, and form a party of only five, including Abú and myself.

“Mohammed El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkáls for a camel, when the usual hire for a káfilah was only from ten to twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert, they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab, who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zeïn’s people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are still waiting here, and Zeïn has started this morning for Akka, to know the reason. I have at last got the account of the things I have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay the amount to Abíb. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which will be added the price of a thick haïk, if one can be procured.

“Night.—Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to him what I have written to you, and added, that all will now look to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great Marabout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters state, that I am an Englishman; that the English have been always the friends of the Mussulman; that they are all their support; for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are consumed in this country.

“Berúk is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his territory, that he has ordered Hájí Abíb to write to every body who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his own hand; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his responsibility, all may yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed El Abd, by telling him of our power to stop the trade, and to make him personally responsible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktú.

“Midnight.—My party remained here very late; I feel that after the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian appearance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to do without an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents, if possible; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly: as much as eleven mithkáls have been refused to carry a letter; but I suppose that for his own sake, the Sheïkh will arrange this. Abú is quite well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk over the difficulties we have conquered. I do not wish to boast too much; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet: but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many and great dangers, and on this I firmly rely.”

At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly _en route_ for the goal of his travels—Tumbuktú. But he had scarcely entered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His last letter is the following, dated

“Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1836.

“This is the fourth day since my arrival here, and as yet I am uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all the town have gone out in the expectation of an attack, I take the opportunity of writing up my journal. We did not actually start on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and we began by moving our things on that day. I had long predicted that there would be no rain, till I was allowed to depart; a prediction that turned out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of the baggage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was, therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse party, and for Abú to follow at break of day with the camels and baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were completed. We all started about seven A.M., but took different routes out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk and Hájí Abíb to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me, and I was then committed to the care of the Sheïkh Mohammed El Abd, and Hámed Mulid. The superior conduct and character of these persons as compared with that of Berúk, his son and escort, was greatly in favour of the Taghakánths. But now let me give you a little pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the attention and assurances of the Sheïkh and Hájí Abíb. The former in giving me into the hands of the Taghakánths, said, ‘He placed me in their hands as his own flesh and blood; if any thing happened to me, it would happen to him; I had done much for them. He counted upon making a name through me. I had waited long; and that now there was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey’s end, and that Mohammed El Abd was to return post haste with a letter, informing them of my safe arrival.’ I heard from his conversation here last night, that if he gets back to Wád Nún in three months, Berúk is to give him one hundred mithkáls of gold. Hájí Abíb wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found that Abú had packed up my Suilham; but as it was said that I must have one, although I had three _Haìks_, Hájí Abíb took off his own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do.

“I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which were two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back, and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed in my hand, and _haíked_ up to the mouth. We were off at eight A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party, including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping, firing and galloping, to frighten the _Haràmis_, the road being very dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired, which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops; and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk, and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad, as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels, they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá, and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined to start on Thursday night. The journey will be accomplished in a very short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily, not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say, there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their word; God grant that he may.

“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.

“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man, who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any thing, is at another a thief and _haràmi_.”

“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.