Part 27

Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse (Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.

It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a resemblance to a horse.

Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in a private dwelling.

As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.

We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that neighborhood is sure and of good quality.

It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected by a covering of raw-hides.

FRIDAY, _January 12, 1866_.

After enjoying a comfortable night in the hospitable mansion of my friend, Senor Miguel, I went this morning with his son to set a gill-net for fish, and thence across the river to gather some grapes. This planting is made from cuttings of vines in the United States, and is now bearing a crop of fine fruit. The vines are arranged upon a large wooden frame, and appear vigorous and healthy, though upon the low land near the river, which is certainly not a very favorable site for the grape culture.

That celestial fruit, the jaboticaba, was also found growing in the same locality, but only a few remained of the abundant crop which the trees are said to have borne this year.

Several other varieties of fruit trees were seen, but it not being the season of maturing, I had no opportunity to test their qualities.

On returning to the gill-net quite a number of small fish were entangled in its meshes, and Senor Guilherme has since visited it again, getting quite a full mess for the entire family. Some of them, called cascudo, are a new order of fish to me, having a hard skin with scales like the pike or gar, and a very large broad fin upon the back, spreading out like a fan.

The sun was shining brightly during our walk, but it subsequently clouded up and rained.

Senor Miguel showed me this afternoon a field in which cotton and sugar-cane had been planted together, the crop of cotton being gathered some months ago, and the cane being now cut so as to permit the cotton to make another crop from the old stalk.[31]

SATURDAY, _January 13, 1866_.

All things being provided for a tour of observation, Senor Miguel, his son Guilherme and myself embarked in a large canoe at 9 o’clock this morning, to ascend the Ribeira. The margin of the river on the way to Xiririca presented many desirable locations which I had not been able to see when coming down in the night. A short stop was made at the village, where a letter was delivered to Senor Bernardo José Cabral, that should have been presented on my first arrival. Other letters were left for parties who were not at home.

On resuming our ascent of the river, a short visit was made to the farm of Senor Francisco Alvares da Silva, where his interesting family received us cordially, and one of his daughters gave us several pieces of music on the piano. He regaled us with excellent grapes of various qualities, the germs of which were imported from the United States. A few stalks of cotton from American seed were growing finely in his yard. But I was most interested in his coffee field, where trees from three years to twenty years growth presented a most exuberant crop of berries, and certainly present as good a prospect for a large yield of coffee as any of the trees seen in the best regions of Campinas, Lemeira and Rio Claro. These trees are growing in a sandy soil, upon a high bank of the river, and there is an excellent crop of corn in the intervening space, with good cane adjoining.

Our progress up the river enabled me to see again the lands on the banks, which had been seen in my first descent, and further observation impressed me even more favorably.

In many places there are hills extending to the margin, but in most parts the land is elevated, with an extended plain, looking as if the soil would be admirably adapted to cultivation. Corn, rice and sugar-cane, with occasional small patches of coffee, were observed in different localities, and this region seems not only well suited to a variety of products, but also is admirably adapted for settlement. It is high, and gives evidence of being healthy in the appearance of the people living upon the margin of the river.

I have seen nowhere better specimens of healthy, vigorous development than was presented by the daughters of the gentleman at whose house we stopped, and the report given is unqualifiedly favorable to the healthiness of the country and the pleasantness of the climate. Though in the rainy season there is frequently wet weather for a few days, yet even during this period there are intervals of clear, bright days.

The sun shone brightly upon us during most of the day, and though there was a mere sprinkle late in the afternoon, it soon passed off and the sky was again free from cloud.

The current, after ascending a short distance from Xiririca, becomes more rapid, and though we had four stout negroes to man our large canoe, it gave them heavy labor in using the poles. Upon making the suggestion that it was severe work, the reply was simply that they were used to it and did not tire.

It was after dark when we reached the mouth of the Inguary, and this being the point of disembarkation, we stopped at a house for the night.

SUNDAY, _January 14, 1866_.

Again, my dependence upon the arrangements of others induced a departure from the proper observance of the Sabbath. The night had been spent very comfortably, with the assistance of bedding brought in the canoe; and, though I slept in an open shed or piazza, I was not annoyed either by the bite or buzzing of mosquitoes; which gives a promise of exemption here from this troublesome tenant of the forests. The temperature at this point, which is twelve miles above Xiririca, is most delightful; and I am reminded of the remark of General Waddy Thompson, in regard to the table lands of Mexico, that a person having a coat would not care to take it off, or if it was removed, he would not care to put it on again. It is that genial state of the atmosphere which renders a person quite satisfied with his situation. With the majestic Ribeira flowing at our feet, and the beautiful island, to which allusion was made in my descent from Iporanga, lying immediately opposite our place of lodging, relieved by a green background of luxuriant corn upon the other side of the water, this pleasant spot held out encouragement for a thorough examination of the adjacent country. The soil near the bank of the river is a dark loamy earth, that gives every indication of fertility. A field of corn and also a patch of sugar-cane were seen growing near our quarters, and presented a very flourishing condition.

The negroes at the place said there had been a small space planted in cotton, but that the weeds and grass had overgrown it, so that it was abandoned. Upon asking why they did not work it better, they seemed to regard it as too troublesome to cultivate, saying “Não da lucro,” (it does not give profit.) So much for their knowledge of the value of cotton. A small specimen of cotton from a neighboring farm was brought for inspection, which looked as if it might have been produced under the same sort of disadvantages which induced the other to be abandoned, and gave a very unfavorable impression of the cotton culture in this part of the country. The land, however, is evidently well suited to the growth of cotton, when it may receive proper attention, and fine crops have been seen both above and below this point.

The animals which had been sent from Caiacauga across the country arrived here this morning, and all the preliminary steps were taken for proceeding into the woods. Two pack-mules were loaded with bedding, cooking-utensils and supplies of various kinds; yet there were sundry articles to be carried by the negroes, and among them a huge tin box having cooked provisions, plates, tumblers, spoons, knives and forks, &c., &c. I was surprised to see that even two wooden forks and a pole were to be carried, for suspending a hammock at night, especially as our expected tour lay through forests, where these things could be got when we stopped.

Seven negro men and one negro woman (as a cook) accompanied us, to subserve the various objects connected with the examination of the lands and the care of the stock.

Before starting, we were joined by Senor Bernardo Antonio de Ramos Moraes, who is the owner of the small house at which we quartered, and resides a mile distant from the river. He has here a large body of land, and another party adjoining him below has a considerable tract lying on the river, both of which will be sold, if it is thought desirable to secure a body of land in this locality, extending to the water.

The stream, known as Ribeirão Inguary, which enters the Ribeira de Ignape at this point, passes through the lands of the above-named party, and at a short distance, perhaps half a mile, from the Ribeira, there is a fall in its channel, that would afford a very good site for any machinery that might be desirable.

After passing through this land, we entered a body of land owned by Senor Miguel, and encountered at the outset quite a hilly region, a part of which has formerly been cultivated, and is now covered with a second growth, (capoeira,) while there is at our place a field of fine corn, which indicates quite a productive soil. This land is of a dark gray aspect, with some large gravel, and would certainly yield cotton advantageously, even where it has been once cultivated with the hoe only and turned out. There is adjoining this territory, and lying in an angle between two of its extensions, a portion of land occupied by a number of small farmers, who live in close proximity to each other, having the ordinary thatched houses of the country. If these can be secured on reasonable terms, the houses might form the nucleus for a settlement, and they are not more than three or four miles from the river, with a very fair road.

After passing this populated valley, we traversed some lands belonging to Senor José Alves de Moraes, which still lay irregularly, and the soil assuming more of a yellow aspect, while the growth of the palmetto was intermixed with the large forest trees to a considerable extent. On this place there was seen a small patch of coffee trees, three years old, heavily laden with berries; and, though the soil was rather sandy, it seemed to be favorable to the growth of the coffee. It is certain that nowhere else have trees of the same age presented a more favorable prospect for a yield of fruit.

Leaving this, we again entered the territory of Senor Miguel, at a part where the configuration is more regular, and approaches in many places a level surface. It is an undulating plain, with slopes here and there of more or less abruptness; and having plateaus of elevated level land, and also flat low lands which lie along the stream, Aborbora, which runs through this land. Besides this stream, there are other smaller branches running into it, which serve to water all parts of the tract. But there is not any site, which was seen on this portion of the territory, that would be adapted to the use of water-power for machinery, and the reliance for this region must be upon the water-power of the Inguary lying between it and the port of shipment for products.

The quality of these lands varies greatly, presenting in parts great fertility, and in others evidently of less adaptation to the growth of the great staples of the country; while there is occasionally a small portion of land that seems to have been to a great extent exhausted by cultivation in by-gone years, and is overgrown with a long grass, corresponding to our broom-sage grass.

The proportion of virgin forest and second growth could not be accurately ascertained, but my impression is, that three-fourths of the territory has never been entered by the axe; and in this, the Pon D’Alho and Figaro Branco are of frequent occurrence, which are here considered as indicative of the best soil. The timber is not of that enormous dimension which was observed in some parts of the interior, nor do I consider any portion of this land equal in fertility and durability to the (terra rocha) dark purple lands of the inferior of the province. Yet the soil and the growth upon it are well adapted to the purposes of the agriculturist, and the facility for machinery, with the convenience of navigation, are matters of much moment.

I saw young corn on a portion of the tract of Senor Miguel, last described, which presented a good appearance, and also rice growing in upland that looked very favorable. Some older corn examined did not impress me as a good crop, though there was evidence of want of proper culture. The beans had evidently not yielded well, and it was stated that the time of planting by the tenants was improper.

MONDAY, _January 15, 1866_.

Having spent the night at the house of one of the tenants of this property, immediately upon the bank of a small stream known as Aborbora, it was found that we were not entirely exempt from mosquitoes, as on the night before, yet they gave us no trouble in the house whatever. This stream is one of the branches that go to make up the Rio Jacupiranga, and its name is applied to this territory, supposed to embrace two square leagues of land, owned by Senor Miguel.

In leaving this house we ascended a short abrupt hill, and reached an elevated plain which extended with only one depression for half a mile, being in part covered with original forest, and presenting a dark mulatto soil. A portion, which was cleared, had an excellent crop of rice growing upon it, though there were low lands in the vicinity which would probably have suited this article better; and this want of judgment in arranging crops seems to be general among the people of the class that become tenants in this way.

After passing this level region the land became hilly and even mountainous at one point, making the ascent and descent difficult for our animals. The soil upon these hills was inclined to a clay consistence of a yellow hue, while the increase of the palmetto and scrubby palm indicated an inferior quality of land. Yet, upon a slope of one of these hills, corn was growing well in fresh land, while it was looking badly in old land.

Upon a small creek called Ribeirão de Lagoa, a low, flat, dark-colored bottom land spread out to some distance on either side, and the corn seen upon it indicated a good soil. This stream would admit of machinery, and there is sufficient fall near the point where it was crossed to render the water-power available. It is clear and cool, so that we enjoyed a draught of the water as much as if from a spring.

The house of another tenant was located near this stream, and he had a small patch of coffee trees, that seemed to have been neglected, presenting a very untoward prospect for a crop. The position being low, is doubtless likewise an unfavorable condition, while the soil is not here suited to their growth, being deficient in stamina.

In this place was seen a hedge of a scrubby, knotty tree with numerous short, thick limbs that seemed well suited to exclude even hogs from a field; and, as it grows from the cutting, an enclosure can be readily effected in a few years.

There is also another small tree having thorns that is used for hedges, and the enclosure so made is called “cerca de espinhos,” making an effectual barrier.

Although these and other growths are available for enclosure of grounds, hedges are not very often resorted to in the country; and in the campos where the timber is wanting, large ditches are made at a great expenditure of labor, whereas a hedge could be grown to answer every purpose when only cattle and horses or mules are to be enclosed.

In this region of country, however, there is an abundant supply of timber, and the only difficulty is to find that which is favorable for splitting into rails.

After traversing the premises of another party, that contained the poorest specimen of land seen since leaving the river, we proceeded to an extension of the territory of Senor Miguel, which goes within four miles of the town of Xiririca. There corn and rice were growing very satisfactorily, and though most of the land lay unfavorably for cultivation, those parts that are cleared have a comparatively level surface.

Near this portion of the land a field of coffee, on the premises of another party, presented a very encouraging prospect for a yield, being generally loaded heavily with fruit. This was upon a steep hillside from which the superficial soil had disappeared, and the mulatto clay formation, which forms the basis of most parts throughout this region, remained alone to support the growth of the trees. These elevated lands are thought to be most favorable to the coffee.

From this point we retraced our steps for a few miles, and then descended a stream called Braço de Gado for six or seven miles along a low, flat, and broad bottom land, having elevated lands on each side. A tenant occupies a house where we entered this territory, and there is near by an extensive fall in the stream above-named, which would be available for an overshot wheel of any desired size.

This point is particularly suitable for the location of machinery, as it is but four miles from Xiririca, with a road already in use which could be readily made to serve for wagons. It is, besides, near the direct line of communication between this place and Cananea.

In the course of the Braço de Gado several small streams enter from each side, affording water for the several humble families who occupy houses at different points by the favor of the owner.

The ridges upon each side, approaching a mountainous elevation, constitute the boundary lines of this property; and the breadth varies from three to four miles, while the length is considered to be six miles. The slopes of the hills on each side admit for the most part of ready cultivation; and the soil being of a dark gray aspect with a mulatto clay base, is adapted to all the staples, yet the most irregular portions would be most appropriately used for coffee. I saw good corn growing far up on the side of one of these slopes, and corn and rice were also seen upon the level plain below, but was too young to determine what would be the result.

This low land is generally level, and yet is not at all marshy, as the stream has a deep channel below the surface of the ground with abrupt angular banks, so that the water does not overflow except in immense falls of rain causing a flood of water.

The earth is solid throughout this bottom, and the road firm and good, except at the crossings of some of the small branches. With very little work a fine wagon-road could be made extending along this stream on a level route, communicating above with the road to Xiririca, or extending below some four or five miles over the same kind of surface to the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest canoes thence to its mouth.

TUESDAY, _January 16, 1866_.

We spent the night at the house of a mulatto man named Senor Bartholomew da Costa; and having a heavy rain, the Braço de Gado was so full this morning that it could not be forded without swimming. Notwithstanding this flood of water, there were very few points at which it overflowed the high banks, and yet it did not fall sufficiently during the day for us to cross it, so that we remained at this place observing what was to be seen about the premises of this gentleman of color.

A patch of coffee, having some two thousand trees, was examined, which afforded a poor prospect of a yield. This was, in part, perhaps, attributable to being planted with a southern exposure, instead of facing towards the east; yet it is most likely that the soil is deficient in those elements suited to the production of coffee.

Corn and rice were growing well in the flat land along the stream, but most of it was too young to form a proper opinion as to the yield. Observing that the rice was missing in various places, I was told by the owner that it had been eaten by rats which live in the woods, of whose voracity there is no reason to doubt; though this is the first time that these rats have been heard of in the country.

Here it was observed that the cows were very much annoyed by a fly which deposits its egg in the flesh and causes numerous points of irritation in the skin. The same result ensues when they make a deposit in the human skin.[32]

WEDNESDAY, _January 17, 1866_.

Finding the Braço de Gado reduced again to its natural channel, we left our imprisonment, enjoying another day as bright and clear as that of yesterday, until late in the afternoon, when there was a slight shower of rain. This body of land is the possession of Senor Miguel, and we proceeded from it across the ridge towards the Ribeiro to examine another tract owned by him, of a configuration and quality that is better suited to agricultural operations than any of the territory thus far seen. There is perhaps a square league of land in this lot; and it combines original forest, secondary growth, and open cultivated fields. A large portion of the original forest is well timbered, and not so irregular as to prevent cultivation with the plough; but there is one part that assumes a mountainous character and of course precludes ordinary culture. On the crest of this elevation I was informed that crops had been grown and that the soil was good, but I did not make the ascent.

In the lands under cultivation I saw a few patches of corn, some of which was growing well, while others indicated an exhausted soil as well as deficient culture. At one small house where we stopped there were rice and peas, which the negro tenant had grown on the place; and at another there was a considerable lot of corn. There is upon this place a site where a large rice-mill was formerly in operation, and might be made available again for machinery. I found the effects of the fly upon the skin of cattle here also, and any quantity of mosquitoes in the wood.

THURSDAY, _January 18, 1866_.

After a tour of five days and a return to the comforts of home, Senor Miguel announced this as a day of rest for us; but a few points may be adverted to in connection with my past observations upon the surroundings of this place.

This section of country about Xiririca is exempt from local or epidemic diseases, and the general constitutional stamina of the population indicates vigorous health. Goitre and leprosy, which are found in most other sections, are unknown in this region. The climate is free from that oppressive heat which prevails in higher latitudes, and which is observed in less elevated localities.