Part 28

The atmosphere is also free from fogs or any other undue dampness. I am here in what is known to be the rainy season of this country, and setting out from the homestead of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge on Saturday, the 13th inst., we ascended the Ribeira de Ignape for twenty-five miles, and during the entire day the sun was shining brightly, and only a mere sprinkle late in the evening for a few moments. On the following day we crossed the range of hills at right angles from the river, proceeding some eight or ten miles, and again the sun shone brightly all the day without any thing more than a light sprinkle late in the afternoon. On the third day we traversed hills and valleys on a line parallel with the Ribeira for a distance of fifteen miles, and still the sun shone brightly throughout the day with no signs of rain until night. On the fourth day the sun beamed forth again, and the brightness of the fifth was only marred by a sprinkle in the evening.

FRIDAY, _January 19, 1866_.

My friend Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge arranged that his son, Senor Guilherme, should accompany me to-day to visit the lands lying between our former route and the river. Setting out with a guide from Caiacauga, we proceeded nearly four miles upon the road by which we returned from our former tour, and then diverging to the right hand, we passed through a portion of land lying favorably, and with good soil. This is located upon a stream which forms the line of division between the territory which Senor Miguel proposes to sell and that of his home place.

This stream further up has a good site for machinery, which is located upon lands of Senor João Franco, that will be disposed of if they are desired. This point would serve a good purpose in regard to much of the land, which is best suited for agricultural operations, yet it is six or eight miles from the Ribeira, upon which shipment must be made.

With a view to accommodate the products of these lands, Senor Miguel proposes to donate land for a depot on the river below his residence, to which point there is a practicable route for a road, which is now in use.

After passing the mill site to which allusion is above made, we ascended a very steep mountain, and the descent was equally steep on the other side, so that this soil, though presenting a favorable aspect, is not likely to be in requisition for cultivation.

Leaving this elevation we visited a coffee field of Senor Francisco de Paula, upon the slope of a high hill. The trees were generally about six years growth, and consequently at that age when the yield should be best, yet the crop was by no means good, while the size and appearance of the trees was unfavorable.

Whether the nature of the soil or the manner of planting may be the cause of the failure, I could form no definite opinion.

Immediately at the villa of Xiririca a field of coffee, with fifteen thousand trees, belonging to Senor João Franco, gave a much more encouraging prospect for the culture of coffee.

These trees are for the most part four years old, and while larger and healthy, they were loaded heavily with fruit, presenting by far the most favorable aspect of any trees of the same age that have been seen anywhere.

Here seems also to be an exception in the growth of the coffee tree upon the level plain near the river, and although the bluff is high, so that there is never an overflow of this land, yet it is what is usually denominated as bottom land with us.

It has been alleged that in this whole region of country, the coffee plant does not bear but a few years, when it declines, or even dies.

But in the ground adjoining these trees, some antiquated trees, supposed to be fifty years old, are still standing, without any special indication of decay, and I have seen elsewhere very old trees bearing fruit.

There seems nothing in the nature of the soil, or the character of the climate throughout this region, to preclude the proper growth of coffee.

On our route to-day several fields of corn were passed, which presented a fine prospect for a yield, and especially did the crops of corn look well near the road as we approached the villa. I am not fully prepared to give an opinion as to the result, from simply seeing a vigorous stalk, before the ears are formed, but enough of the crop is now earing to afford a guarantee of a good yield, and with improved culture, corn will most assuredly turn out well.

The road leading into the villa from the lands previously visited had been reached by us before, some four miles from the villa, and now the exploration of it was continued.

The route upon which the road is located is very favorable for the construction of a good wagon-road, and by this line of communication the products of the lands belonging to the tracts of Aborbora and Braço de Gado could readily be brought to the villa of Xiririca for shipment.

There are lands belonging to the public domain in close proximity to these private lands, of which I have a very favorable report from Captain Buhlaw, formerly an officer of the engineer department in the Confederate service, and now employed by the Brazilian government to survey these lands. In connection with a portion of this territory first examined, and lying nearest the river, I expect to effect a provisional arrangement with the government of Brazil for such an extent of public land as will accommodate those families who look to me for a selection.

These private lands lie almost parallel with the course of the river, at a distance of from four to six miles from it, and their products may all reach this navigable stream either at Xiririca or Caiacauga; while those located higher up, and extending to the Ribeira de Ignape, have a direct shipment by canoes. The latter may deposit their cargoes at Xiririca for the steamboat, or make the trips entire to Ignape, as is done at present by many of the planters.

There are other private lands which may be secured, of similar quality to those described, and so situated as to communicate readily with the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest size of canoes into the lower part of the Ribeira de Ignape.

The largest portion of these lands being owned by Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge, he proposes, if it is desirable, to arrange with other parties for the transfer of these lands, so as to bring all into one compact body, which would enable our people to divide this territory more advantageously among themselves, and to exclude those who might not be desirable neighbors.

A paper has been received from this gentleman, in which the price of his land is fixed at eighty-eight cents per acre, the houses with straw covering going with the land, while those with tile roofs are to be valued separately. It is specified that the payments be made in three equal instalments, at the end of the third, fourth and fifth years from the date of the purchase, and the whole without interest.

Should any one desire to anticipate the time fixed for payment, a discount of six per cent. per annum for such years as the amount was to remain unpaid will be allowed upon receiving the payment. It is also stated that his large fazenda, containing about one square league of land, located immediately upon the banks of the Ribeira de Ignape, will be sold if it is desired. This place is known as Ponto-Grosso, and is only forty miles above the town of Ignape, with every facility of machinery and buildings that would be requisite for a large business. A notice of it will be seen under the record of the 10th inst. The price fixed for this place is ten thousand (10,000) dollars, with the same time and conditions as specified for the other lands.

There is, likewise, another place immediately upon the river some fifteen miles above this fazenda, where cattle are at present reared, and, though not in cultivation, presents an elevated regular outline with indications of fertility. This tract of land has a front on the water of perhaps three-fourths of a mile, and a depth of two miles, yet the exact measurements of this, as most of the land in this region of country, have not been as yet ascertained. If Ponto-Grosso should be sold this would likewise be disposed of, but not otherwise, as it is a stopping place in passing from Caiacauga to the above-named fazenda.

As there are no cotton-gins introduced along this river, and a considerable amount of cotton now planted, Ponto-Grosso would be a favorable location for an extensive ginning establishment, or even for a cotton factory.

SATURDAY, _January 20, 1866_.

My friends of Caiacauga having treated me throughout my sojourn here with the greatest possible kindness, Senor Miguel and his very accomplished wife, Donna Maria, walked with me to the canoe-landing this morning, to give me their best wishes upon leaving their house. The noble hospitality of these people exceeds any thing I ever expected to realize among strangers, and, apart from any interested motive, I believe it affords them a satisfaction to contribute to the enjoyment of a guest.

It being arranged that my young friend, Senor Guilherme, would accompany me, we embarked at 11 o’clock A. M. with two sturdy negro fellows to paddle us down the river; and making a pleasant voyage, we reached Ponto-Grosso at 6½ o’clock P. M.

An ample stock of provisions had been supplied by my hostess for the entire trip to Ignape, consisting of chickens, fried fish, boiled rice, excellent bread, farina, bananas, figs, and pine-apples. In addition to these, we were supplied with a kind of beefsteak, enveloped in eggs and fried, so as to afford a most palatable dish. Having partaken freely of our stores on the way, a cup of coffee was all that I cared to take upon arrival, though Senor Guilherme insisted upon having a warm supper prepared.

Previous to visiting this region of country, nothing could be learned definitely in regard to its adaptation to the growth of the staple commodities, corn, cotton, and coffee; but my observations lead to the conclusion that each of them may be produced here advantageously.

Corn has been heretofore one of the principal articles of export to Santos and Rio de Janeiro; and, in the form of big hominy, is used to a considerable extent in the country. But corn bread is not known here, though the farina is frequently made when that of the mandioca is not at hand. The white flint corn is the only kind which is planted, and though the ears are not large, it seems to be a sound, good grain.

The common white corn is said to be much more liable to injury from weevils than this hard variety; and the yellow or red corn is not found so marketable in the form of big hominy, which is dried and shipped in large quantities. A change of seed and improved culture would doubtless secure better results in the growth of corn.

Cotton has been grown in this region by a few persons for several years, with results that are conclusive as to the favorable yield, and yet systematic culture is requisite to test fully the quality and quantity that may be produced in these river lands. Should the improved appliances and the skilled labor of the Southern States be applied to the culture of cotton here, I am satisfied the yield will exceed that of the lands in the United States; and it is likely that the amount of cotton grown in Brazil within a few years will affect very much the markets of the world. The labor of production is materially lessened by its continuous growth from the same stalk, which is annually cut off and yields again full crops.

Coffee has been seen here in lands of various kinds, and of all ages, presenting the most favorable indications of an abundant yield. The coffee produced in former years presents also the characteristics of a good, sound grain; and I am informed that the average yield of trees equals what was stated elsewhere to be a full crop on the best lands.

Several patches of coffee trees have been seen that did not afford a prospect of good results; and it is evident that a selection of location is a matter of moment here, as it is found to be even in the districts where coffee is most successfully cultivated.

The same kind of discrimination is necessary in determining what localities are suited to the growth of other articles, and a neglect of such precautions leads to a failure in the crop of either.

Rice is recognized as a certain and prolific product of all this region, but more especially of the lower section where lands become flat and moist. Mandioca yields abundantly.

Beans, which are more prized in Brazil than any other provision crop, are found to yield well in the lands visited, and though some specimens of failure have been observed, this has, for the most part, been satisfactorily accounted for by planting out of season or other departure from good farming. An abundant crop of sugar-cane, oranges, bananas, figs, and grapes, with a most excellent quality of pine-apples, makes up a variety of products which renders this a desirable land for the settlement of those who seek a home in Brazil.

SUNDAY, _January 21, 1866_.

Rising before day my young friend had all our baggage deposited in the canoe, and fresh eggs, with hot coffee and bread were in readiness when I was summoned from my bed. Partaking of these “fresh eggs,” etc., we resumed our voyage down the river, and I found this was not to be regarded as breakfast, but with the addition of two entire chickens to our supplies for the trip, we breakfasted at 9 o’clock A. M., and dined at 4 o’clock P. M. on the water.

We had as fellow-passenger a young porcupine, (ouriço,) that one of the negroes was taking down to sell as a pet; and finding that he was testing the quality of our figs, the negro guardian was called upon to secure the ugly little varmint at one end of the canoe.

We passed during the forenoon the mouths of the Rio Jacupiranga and the Rio Paricoera, on the latter of which I was told there are quite a number of inhabitants. Shortly after mid-day we passed through a canal, or cut through a neck of land, about one mile in length, which saved us four miles in the natural course of the river. The difference of level in the Ribeira is so slight at the entrance and outlet of this artificial communication, that the current through it is feeble, and instead of washing out it is gradually filling up from the repeated rises of the river, and our canoe had great difficulty in passing. The negroes labored hard, and one of them got out several times to push the canoe through the mud; but they worked with a good will, under the promise of a drink of rum at the close. Both had previously taken off their shirts, and with the confined air of this narrow channel, the mosquitoes, and the hard pulling, their bodies and arms were covered with perspiration before reaching the open water of the river. After getting their drink, and resting a short time, they proceeded as usual again.

Another canal was encountered at no great distance, cutting off another bend of the river, but it was much shorter, and there was no difficulty in the passage. On approaching the city of Ignape there is a very large artificial channel, in which a small steamboat passes; and being very straight, with the water running in the direction we came, it made a very pleasant trip of over a mile, to the immediate precincts of the city bridge.

We stopped with the brother of my young friend, Senor Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who is keeping house in bachelor style, and places his establishment at my disposal in a way that relieves me of all embarrassment.

In descending the Ribeira it was observed that the corn did not present so good an appearance as it had done above, and in most places the banks were very low, so that the general surface of the land must be submerged in the floods of the river. When approaching the city the water spreads out into various channels, over an extensive area, again bringing up the resemblance to the Mississippi river near its mouth.

The tainha, a fine fish which frequents these waters at this season, was seen leaping up into the air to a distance of three feet.

MONDAY, _January 22, 1866_.

Having met the Rev. Ballard Smith Dunn, of Louisiana, at the hotel last evening, we found many topics of interest in rehearsing what had been seen by each of us in this country, and have spent this day together. He is acting in behalf of a number of families who desire to be informed in regard to Brazil, and has visited a portion of the provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Esperitos de Santos. He was favorably impressed with the inhabitants, and found some fine lands, yet did not conclude that it was desirable to locate in that region. He is now investigating the lands upon the tributaries of the Ribeira, and considers the soil adjacent to the waters of the Rio Jacupiranga of excellent quality, with a very promising prospect for crops of corn in most parts. In passing through, from the colony of Cananea, he reports that very fertile lands were seen, and he hopes to find in this region a desirable location for his friends. He will ascend the Rio Paricoera, and also the Rio Inquia; which latter affords an encouraging field for examination, as it is likely to be the line of communication with the great iron-works of Epanema. If he should recommend some portion of this territory for a settlement of people from the Southern States, it would strengthen very much my conviction of the advantages likely to accrue from a location in the vicinity of Xiririca, as it is extremely desirable that our people should be as far as practicable associated together.

TUESDAY, _January 23, 1866_.

Being detained to-day in Ignape, awaiting the arrival of the steamer, to proceed to Cananea, I may note some points connected with this port of entry. It is located upon a low flat point of land, with a rugged mountain ridge rising up at a short distance from it, and the whole is surrounded by water. With a low land extending up from the city, along the Ribeira for a considerable distance, it is not a matter of surprise that the place is reported to be unhealthy, and recently there has been a very serious epidemic, bloody flux, prevailing, attended with considerable fatality, but has now ceased.

There is a very large church in the process of completion, at a central point of the buildings in the place; and the abandoned walls of an immense jail that was supposed to be in demand some years ago, but the improved morals of the population, or the want of resources, induced them to leave it unfinished. There are but few houses of two stories, conforming to the type of most of the interior towns in having one-story buildings.

The general appearance of the population does not give a favorable impression of their physical stamina, or their intellectual status, yet I have met several gentlemen of refinement and cleverness, among whom I may especially mention Dom Antonio Joaquim Rodrigues, Juiz de Direita, and my young friend Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who holds the position corresponding to our District Attorney, or Solicitor for the State. The latter speaks some English, and we got on very pleasantly, in his snug bachelor’s retreat, during my stay.

WEDNESDAY, _January 24, 1865_.

Leaving Ignape during the forenoon, in the Dom Affonso, we steamed along the inland sea, known as Mare Pequeno, and really the Bay of Venice cannot present a scene of more simple beauty than this placid sheet of water.

Several cozy-looking dwellings are located very near the margin, and the borders are fringed with green foliage, while here and there an islet is slightly elevated above the surface, and to complete the picture, water-fowls of various plumage are seen either resting upon the water or flying around with evident surprise at the presence of our little intruder.

In the course of the afternoon a heavy rain drove us from the deck into the cabin, and as the shades of evening were closing around us, the steamer reached the villa of Cananea.

Shortly after anchoring, Senor E. H. Street came aboard, and took me ashore to spend the night. We called upon Captain Buhlaw and lady, and also Mr. Hanson and lady, living in the same house. They are favorably impressed with the suitableness of the country for their future residence; and arrangements are already completed by those two gentlemen, for the location of a saw-mill upon the river Guarahu, five miles above its confluence with the Rio Jacupiranga, which proceeds thence thirty miles into the Ribeira de Ignape.

We took tea with these Southern people, and while sitting in that little social group, unfettered by any political domination, my thoughts turned anxiously to the fate of those who remained in the South.

THURSDAY, _January 25, 1866_.

We breakfasted with our Southern friends, and relished it the more for being prepared by the hands of the ladies. Mrs. Hanson is quite a young woman with one child, and seems prepared to take life as she may find it, saying that she only wants now to get a place fixed where she could have her own garden, and raise her own poultry, to feel entirely independent.

Mrs. Buhlaw does not seem to adapt herself so readily to this border style of living, yet she is cheerful, and hopeful of the future.

These families are sojourning only temporarily here, until arrangements for their accommodation are completed at some distance in the country.

The villa of Cananea is one of the oldest settlements in Brazil, the fleet of Martin Affonso de Sonza having landed at this place, August 12, 1531, and placed upon the island of Abrigo, at an elevated point known as Morro São Joas, two stone pillars, which are still to be seen.

This island upon which the villa is located is at the outlet of the long, narrow body of water, which we traversed in coming from Ignape. Though the mouth of the Ribeira leads out to the ocean, opposite to the city of Ignape the bar is so shallow as to preclude the passage of vessels in that direction, so that they are required to come through this Mare Pequeno, a distance of forty-five miles, for an outlet; and, if going towards Rio de Janeiro, must return along the coast the same distance, to reach the point from which they might proceed directly if the mouth of the river could be made navigable.

In view of this circuitous navigation, it is very desirable that a good wagon-road should be constructed from Xiririca across the country to the port of Cananea near the main land. I am informed by Senor Street and Captain Buhlaw that the route is very favorable even for a railroad; while the port is capable of admitting, with good protection, vessels of the largest size. The largest extent of public lands lies south of this proposed road, and products might be conveyed along it either to Xiririca or to the port of Cananea, as might be most convenient.

The epidemic bloody flux, which visited the city of Ignape, is now prevailing in Cananea, and has been attended with great fatality, more especially among children. In one family as many as eight persons have died in one month, and a number of deaths have occurred in other families. But the population have now to a large extent left the villa and gone into the country, where they are entirely exempt from the disease. The absence of a means of proper treatment has doubtless added very much to the fatal results, as there was no medical man residing in either of these places, and though a doctor is paid now by the province, and medicines furnished to him for the treatment of the sick at Cananea, there is but little confidence reposed in his skill or his integrity and faithfulness.

Regarding this epidemic as a transient disease, confined to these populated localities, it does not augur any thing unfavorable to the healthfulness of the country.

FRIDAY, _January 26, 1866_.