Part 26

I learn here that the lands of Dom Prates, of which mention was previously made, are located near the route from Apiahy to Iporanga, and though hilly are considered fertile. It is stated, however, that the coffee trees planted there have all died, from some inscrutable cause. I am satisfied that the land is very unfavorably located for transportation, and shall not try to visit it under all the circumstances.

The important matter in selecting a place is to secure lands adapted to all the variety of products, which are exempt from liability to sickness, and affording ready means of communication with a market, by means of navigation. Such I trust may be found combined in the neighborhood of Xiririca; and without spending time looking at other points I will proceed to investigate those lands.

SUNDAY, _January 7, 1866_.

Though this day should have been observed as a day of rest, the arrangement of Senor Manoel made it incumbent to proceed in his canoe down the river to-day. After breakfasting with Senor João Paulo I was provided with a supply of chicken, fish, etc., etc., for my dinner, and took my departure at 9 o’clock A. M. The large fish, of which I had a part, and had also partaken at breakfast, was caught with a hook from the river, and though the name has escaped me, it was a fine specimen of what these waters produce. I understand that large fish are not so frequent here as lower down in the stream, but that there are a great many of good size for table use in all parts of the river.

While coming down in the canoe I read in the Portuguese Testament the sixth chapter of St. John’s gospel, and tried to profit by the lessons of dependence upon the Lord which it inculcates.

In the early part of my descent the lands were quite mountainous on each side of the river, but the irregularity of the surface gradually became less, until I reached a region where the elevations afforded only an agreeable relief to the more uniform configuration of the surface.

All the corn seen in the first part of the voyage seemed to have been planted early, and had become prematurely dry, giving an unfavorable impression of the yield of this region. But that observed lower down, and more recently planted, looked fresh and vigorous, while the corn approaching maturity was evidently of better stamina than that passed above. This change was evident after descending twenty miles, and decided after reaching the Inguary. This small river enters opposite to a very pretty island, which looks as if it would be productive; and the appearance of the corn on each bank of the Ribeira indicated good soil.

Upon descending further, the Laguary, a larger stream on the left, was passed, and I was told that canoes ascend it to a considerable distance.

Below this is the island of Bananal Grande.

My sturdy negro boatman did not seem inclined to expend much his energies upon his paddle, and I endeavored to stimulate him by offering a reward for a quick trip. But he subsequently sat down to paddle, and actually went to sleep. I then said that he must be very tired, and proposed to relieve him for a time, but he insisted there was no need of my doing so, and seemed to turn over the paddle to me reluctantly. My progress was not the most satisfactory, and getting into a swift place, the canoe made headway towards a point of land which I had to turn. The negro, perceiving my inability to manage his craft, again took the paddle, and after this there was no more sitting down to sleep. These fellows stand up in using the paddle or pole, and it is surprising how long they can continue this severe labor without intermission. This canoe was a regular dug-out, as are all on this river. It measured about twenty (20) feet in length, two (2) feet across the mouth, and eighteen (18) inches deep. The general thickness did not exceed one inch, with a belt of increased thickness in the middle, and with somewhat more substance in the bottom.

The negro informed me that such a canoe could be bought for six dollars ($6.00) at Iporanga.

Reaching Xiririca shortly after 6 o’clock P. M., I went immediately to the house of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorgi, and upon presenting the letters I bore from various parties, he proposed that I should proceed with him and his family down the river to his situ. To this I cordially assented, saying, “En eston as suas ordens.” His wife was introduced to me, and having learned that she spoke English, I forthwith propounded the interrogatory, “Falla Inglez, Senhora?” But I was answered, “Não, Senhor. Esquece toda lingua Ingleza.” She had spoken English when she was first married, but having no one to converse with for eight years, it had been forgotten, and I was left to my small acquirements in Portuguese as the only means of communication with this family. Senor Guilherme, a son of Senor Miguel, was also presented to me, and a number of other gentlemen who happened to be at the house when I entered. I escorted Senhora to the canoe-landing, giving her my arm, as I had learned this act of civility was viewed much in the same light as with us. All that was said by either was mutually understood, and my prospect for getting on in my communications with intelligent, educated people, is far more encouraging than in my intercourse with the caipiras with whom I have been for several days past in coming across the country.

I was accommodated in the huge family canoe, which had a covering of raw-hide, and all were comfortably protected for the voyage of ten miles.

The negro with the other canoe, in charge of my baggage, was directed by Senor Miguel to follow us.

MONDAY, _January 8, 1866_.

Requesting Senor Guilherme to write a note of thanks for me to Senor Manoel Joaquim da Rocha, for the service rendered by the man and the canoe in bringing me down the river, they were dismissed this morning at an early hour to return to Iporanga.

Having learned definitely that Senor Street has left this section, I am thrown upon my own resources in making any exploration of the lands, and, as Senor Miguel seems very kindly disposed, I have accepted his invitation to remain a few days for the purpose of looking around the country.

His dwelling and all its appliances present an air of substantial comfort, and even of elegance in some respects. The parlor is a large, well-furnished apartment, and has a piano of the bureau order, which is very fashionable in this country. His wife performs well upon this instrument, and has also the accomplishment of speaking French and Italian, though she has forgotten most of her English. She is very sprightly, and appears quite young for the wife of a gentleman of fifty-five years, as I take Senor Miguel to be from his appearance. He is originally from Spain and retains much of the harsh accent of that country in speaking the Portuguese, so that I do not understand him with the same facility as I do his wife or his son. The only fruit of the present marriage is one pretty little girl, who is quite a prattler. By a former marriage he has this son and two others, one a lawyer at Ignape, and the other a Catholic priest at Bahia.

Senor Miguel has at this place extensive machinery with water-power, for treating rice and sugar-cane, from the latter of which the rum (cachaça) is the chief yield, as it is found to pay better than the sugar or molasses.

I was struck with the convenience of his rolling scaffolds for sunning the rice, there being three or four of different elevations, so that one goes under the other, and each having its separate track, they can be compactly stored under a house or drawn out to be exposed to the sun. A similar plan to this would be well suited for drying coffee, yet nothing of the kind was seen in the coffee establishments, and they should profit by the suggestion. Upon these a few of the women and children about the house can draw out or run under shelter, as may be required, a large amount of rice or coffee.

There is also a saw-mill in operation here which seems to be of long standing, and has a perpendicular saw that works rather slowly.

The water-power used for these several purposes is a stream of no great magnitude, that comes into the Ribeira at this point, and by throwing a dam across some short distance above, he secures sufficient water for his purposes.

The residence and other buildings are located upon the bank of the river within a short distance of the water, and sundry large canoes supply the means of transportation to and from this place, which is called Caiacauga.

These canoes are of various sizes, made out of a solid log of wood. The one in which we all came down last night is forty-five feet long, thirty-two inches deep and thirty inches across the mouth. But there are others larger than this in all respects, and some measuring three feet across the mouth.

The largest canoes will carry ten thousand pounds of freight upon this river, and are worth about one hundred dollars; those of eight thousand pounds capacity may be bought for ninety dollars; while those of five thousand pounds capacity are valued at fifty dollars. From this down to the size capable of carrying two men and their baggage, the price ranges even as low as five dollars. This is found to be a very economical means of transportation, and those who employ their canoes for the public charge but twenty cents per head from Xiririca to Ignape, a distance of between ninety and one hundred miles. The steamboats adopt the same scale of rates; and from Ignape to Rio de Janeiro the rate of transportation is forty cents per head, making the entire freight from Xiririca to Rio de Janeiro only sixty cents per head when transported by water.

In comparing this with the table of published rates from Santos to Rio Claro, or any of the interior towns in the direction of Araraquara, it is found the latter is two dollars and forty cents per head without including the further item of shipment to Rio de Janeiro from Santos. So much for the difference of water and pack-mule transportation. We may reasonably calculate that the transportation to Rio from Araraquara will be five-fold greater than from Xiririca, even when the line of railroad is completed from Santos to Campinas. The pack-mules being placed on the upper part of the line will continue to exact a heavy tariff before articles reach the cars, and the rate of freight by railroad must exceed very much that by water.

This matter is of great consequence in the profits of a crop; and while many articles are entirely precluded from market, by the rates of transportation on pack-mules from the interior of this province, even coffee and cotton cannot be forwarded to any advantage, except when the prices of these commodities are very high. On the other hand, there is scarcely any thing marketable which could not afford to pay the freight from Xiririca and leave a margin of profit; and all that is saved upon coffee and cotton is clear gain to the planter in this region.

The Ribeira de Ignape is navigable for steamboats of light draught at all seasons up to Xiririca, and at the ordinary state of the water, during the rainy season, those drawing eight feet can pass up it. The part affording least depth of water is at the mouth, all other parts of the river, being very favorable for navigation.

It runs very smoothly opposite the site of Caiacauga; and in passing down a few miles this afternoon, I was impressed with its special adaptation for navigation.

I visited, in company with Senor Miguel, the farm of Senor Manoel Roberto de Almaida, about two miles down the river; and though being under cultivation, it interested me greatly.

Cotton of American seed had been growing four years without pruning, and yielded two crops a year. The present prospect for a crop is fair, and I counted an average stalk having forty-two grown bolls upon it, while an isolated stalk had eighty-five bolls. I saw a very large stalk of cotton separate from the planting of the field, where it had ample space to spread, which must have had, at the least calculation, two hundred bolls.

This is the first specimen seen which has been growing for such a length of time, and it has not even been cut off, as most of the plants have been, which are more than one year’s growth. The appropriateness of this climate for the continuous production of cotton from a single planting during four years, is illustrated by a considerable field growing in this place; and apart from being arranged in rows, it affords but little evidence of attention. The land is evidently inferior to most of the surrounding territory, and yet it is of that dark gray order, with an admixture of coarse gravel, that is usually best adapted to the culture of cotton. The recently planted cotton also looks well, and if it was cultivated properly, would doubtless far exceed the yield of that which has been on the land four years.[30]

Coffee trees of great age were seen here still bearing some fruit, and younger trees, with a full crop of the berries, indicated a climate well suited to this article. This man is eighty-five years old, and has a sister ninety years old living in this neighborhood, giving good evidence of the healthfulness of the country.

TUESDAY, _January 9, 1866_.

I came down the river this morning in a canoe with Senor Miguel and his son, to his plantation at Ponto-Grosso, a distance of forty miles from Caiacauga. The rain was falling most of the time of our descent, and prevented me from seeing much of the land or crops on either side of the river. The few patches of corn seen did not present a favorable aspect, but having no information as to the period of its planting, I could not judge correctly of it.

We landed at a sandy beach, and breakfasted upon the abundant supplies brought with us; and dined after our arrival, having taken eight hours to make the trip.

The Rio Inquia enters the Ribeira eight miles above here, and adds greatly to the amount of water, so that it bears a striking resemblance to the Mississippi river, in the character of the stream and the general aspects of the adjacent country. It is a magnificent body of water, and, with the exception of a single small steamboat, is only navigated by large canoes, which transport the products along its margin to Ignape, a distance of forty miles below this point.

The lands along the banks of this river are covered for the most part with a most luxuriant growth of the copine grass, which is relished greatly by cattle, horses, and mules; but it is so succulent that it does not seem well for drying so as to make hay, and the land is too valuable to be left open for pasturage, so that very little of it is made available.

The soil of the river bottoms is a dark ash color, of a fine loamy consistence, and of great depth, so that it does not become exhausted by cultivation; and corresponds (so far as my limited knowledge of the lands of the Mississippi enable me to speak) very much in all respects to the Mississippi bottoms.

Upon visiting a field where cotton and corn are planted, the former was found to be growing too luxuriantly, and will be likely to make a large stalk without affording a good yield. The stand was irregular, and had been but partially supplied by replanting and transplanting. This last process is entirely new to me, and though not resorted to in the Southern States, it has a fair prospect for success here in the rainy season. The importance of having the stand of cotton all as nearly of the same age as practicable, and getting it forward during the wet months, will warrant the trouble, if it is found to succeed well. It is demonstrated that the plant takes root and grows, but how it may thrive or yield subsequently is yet to be tested. It has not been tried by any other person who I have met in Brazil, and has been resorted to in compliance with a suggestion of Dom Frederico Leopoldo Cesar Burlamaqui, a writer upon the culture of cotton, whose paper was published in 1863, with a view to induce the planters of Brazil to plant cotton while its culture was suspended in the United States.

The corn is planted in rows, with five rows of cotton intervening, and consequently too far apart for the pollen from the tassels to have its full effect upon the silks. The ears are therefore not well filled with grains, and the general size of the ears do not seem in proportion to the large stalks. The white flint corn is planted here exclusively, and the same seed has been used from time immemorial, so that a change of the grain is perhaps now indicated for the improvement of the crop. Of course the corn ought to be planted separate from the cotton, and the rows being in closer proximity would secure a better result.

There has been a change made in the rice planted here, within the last three years, and the superior quality of the yield over that of other specimens is very evident. A part of the new supply was from Santos, which is regarded an excellent place for rice; and another portion was procured from South Carolina, the rice from that State being considered the best of the world. Senor Miguel tells me the seed of the Carolina rice yields more grains to the head, but not larger or better quality than the other. The rice culture here is not confined to low lands, but is mixed with corn and cotton by some persons in uplands. My friend has at this place a rice-mill in operation, with a dozen mortars and pestles, and cleans ten sacks of rice daily. This is a task assigned to those working in the establishment, and they have to complete it before stopping the mill. It requires it to go quite early, and continues until after night, to accomplish the whole process.

WEDNESDAY, _January 10, 1866_.

We set out this morning before breakfast and visited a field of corn which was approaching the period of tasseling, and presented a vigorous growth, though too much crowded in the drill.

A coffee field was next examined, containing twenty-five thousand (25,000) trees of two years and younger which had been transferred from a nursery. They were evidently retarded in their development by a luxuriant crop of mandioca that surrounded the plants and shut out the sun to a great extent; yet the most of them look in a healthy, thriving condition, and some have blooms or a few berries of coffee. This coffee is planted upon elevated land, and the soil is dark gray with a mulatto base. These conical-shaped elevations are frequently observed here, and stand out in bold relief to the general flat character of the land near the river.

The mandioca presents an appearance very similar to the castor oil plant when fully developed; and the root is the great source of farina which is eaten by whites and blacks throughout Brazil. There are two distinct varieties, one of which is very similar to the sweet potato, being eaten in the same mode; while the other contains a poisonous juice which must be expressed from the root before the solid portion is used for food. This juice is said to be fatal to man or animal if taken in any considerable quantity; and the presence of it to a greater or less extent in some specimens of the farina is doubtless prejudicial to health, and may perhaps be a source of leprosy in some instances elsewhere.

The farina, however, when properly prepared from this poisonous root, is found to be nutritious and healthy; and this variety of the mandioca supplies most of the people with a substitute for bread. The roots are scraped and grated by a machine, when the coarse powder is subjected to compression under a screw to express the juice, after which the solid portion is pounded in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. This is then dried in shallow pans over a furnace, and undergoes a cooking or parching process that fits it for keeping in sacks or barrels for any length of time. It is generally put on the table in this dry state, and is mixed with almost every thing else that may be eaten, in the same manner that we use bread.

Besides this, there is also a beautifully fine and white powder made from the mandioca by a process similar to that of preparing starch; and it is used for diet under the same circumstances that arrow-root is employed with us.

The mandioca grows well upon this land, and yields without culture, but should be allowed to remain in the ground from eighteen months to two years to attain maturity.

One stalk, which was torn out of the ground this morning for me to examine the roots, had twenty developments resembling sweet potatoes, and the whole would have filled a peck measure, thus affording a most abundant yield. It is propagated by cuttings from the limbs of the growing plants, and these are planted so that the trees cover the entire land densely and uniformly.

After breakfasting, the extensive new ground (roça) was visited. One hundred and sixty (160) acres planted in cotton and twenty acres in corn and rice present quite a promising prospect, though as yet nothing definite can be determined as to the result. The cotton is all young, but the most advanced looks well, notwithstanding there is in some parts a considerable admixture of fern and poke-stalks, calling for the hoe, and the dead trees are lying promiscuously over the ground. There has been an attempt to plant in rows, but they are very irregular; and the stand of cotton is in many places deficient, though it does not seem to be the result of destruction by the ant as in other places.

All the work here is done with the hoe; and the planting is effected by digging a hoeful of dirt, dropping five or six seed, and then covering, at intervals of two feet, more or less.

This land is elevated and the soil dark gray, with an admixture of sand, presenting very favorable conditions for cotton if the culture was properly conducted.

The corn was yet young but flourishing, and is expected to yield without farther work.

The rice is planted in the flats between the more elevated grounds, and evidently will give an excellent yield.

Pine-apples were found growing promiscuously in different parts of this plantation, and I had the opportunity of eating this most delicious fruit to my complete satisfaction; and we started back with our canoe well stocked with large, yellow, sweet-scented cones.

In returning I observed the settlements more than in descending, as it was no longer raining, and there was a large number of dwellings on the margin of the Ribeiro, having in many instances a rice-mill connected with the establishment. These mills are moved usually by small streams of water coming into the river from either side; and a prime object in locating a residence is to be near one of these streams.

At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.

This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something unfavorable to health, and I should not like a location so low down on the river, or so immediately upon its margin.

THURSDAY, _January 11, 1866_.