Part 25
While the articles furnished on this occasion were substantial, and the surroundings clean, the style of serving them was very primitive and plain, presenting a fair type of the living among the better order of caipiras.
Our host filled out the backwoods character by giving me some music on the viola, which is an instrument resembling the banjo, but with metallic strings, and is in great repute with these people. He sang at my request, which gave a zest to his performance, and I gave the best evidence of the soothing influence of his music by going to sleep during the rather protracted performance. Being in the dark, none of the party observed this act of appreciation.
THURSDAY, _January 4, 1866_.
I was honored during the night with the only bedstead in the house, consisting of some forks driven into the ground, upon which some small straight poles were laid, and having over them a piece of flag matting. With the assistance of my blanket and pillow, my sleep was profound and refreshing.
The old man who accompanied me reposed in the crib upon the unhusked corn, while the son spent the night in some equally convenient place, of which I was not advised.
We were not permitted to leave without breakfast, and giving again the bill of fare will afford a farther specimen of the good things enjoyed by this class of people. The immense pile of farina on the cloth in the middle of the stool greets us at the outset, with a big deep plate full of beans and small pieces of meat for each of us, on the corners of this temporary table. There being no seats about the house, I use my trunk as was done last evening, and the others hunker down to it.
This was followed by plates of soup, in which the beans and meat had been cooked, and we were expected to eat farina with it. There is a peculiar art with these people, in throwing the farina into their mouths with a spoon, and not touching the lips with it, so that all use the same spoon without any indelicacy, in eating from the common pile. Next came the big hominy, and we closed with plates of sweet milk. These articles should have been served together, and thus conformed to the usages among the better class, but they were furnished separately in this caipira regime.
We had no coffee here, and as it is more in keeping with these people to use the rum of the sugar-cane, (cachaça), it was tendered but declined.
I observed after eating each time, that my camaradas rose to their feet, and bringing their hands in contact before them, went through some short ceremony, which was construed as a thanksgiving for what they had received. This I presume is peculiar to the class, as nothing of the sort has been observed among the better order of people. There is no asking of blessing at table, or returning thanks, nor is there any family worship, where I have been heretofore; but among these people I heard a service at the house of Senor Pedro, before I rose in the morning, which seemed to be some devotional exercise on the part of the family; and it is evident that some of them have more regard for religious observance than the more refined class of society throughout this country.
Returning my acknowledgments for the hospitality received, we took our leave of this very respectable backwoods family and set out, with the assistance of another caipira to show us the route.
We were shown first into a blind path, leading down a steep hill, and with a continuation of hills and hollows through the woods for a considerable distance, but reached after a time a plainer way, leading by the most irregular and winding course that ever man or beast has travelled. It was that style of substitute for a road known here by the name picado, and consists in having a few of the small saplings and shrubs cut out, so that a horse may pass, and scarcely permitting a rider to accompany him.
At one time the knees are in contact with a tree in making a short turn; at another, a limb or bent cane of immense size endangers the head, and but for the use of the large sheath-knives carried by the camaradas, the path would have been impassable in many parts. These tremendous cutlasses, with which every camarada and almost every traveller is equipped, are equal to a small axe in clearing away obstructions; and though it looks somewhat savage to see them sticking in the belt of almost every man upon a voyage, they are very useful, and even necessary, in a trip such as the present.
Neither of my attendants wore shoes, and upon entering this narrow and rugged path, beset with brambles and thorns, they rolled up their breeches above their knees, having less fear of tearing their flesh than of injuring their clothes. Indeed their scanty outfit of wearing apparel made this precaution very proper, in view of the tough appearance of the natural covering of their legs. With my boots outside of my pants I secured a like immunity from damage to my raiment.
From our entrance into these woods until we passed out into the Faxina road, a distance of sixteen miles, we were surrounded by lands which were evidently of good quality; and yet, for the most part, so hilly as to render their cultivation very difficult. A portion of the soil is what is known among us as mulatto land, and other parts of a dark gray aspect. The supply of water at all points is quite sufficient for domestic uses, but only two places that would afford facilities for erection of machinery.
The remoteness of these lands belonging to the public domain from a market, and the great difficulty of getting a practicable road in any direction, must be a barrier to the occupation of this territory; otherwise it might be a desirable location for families.
I observed in the midst of this immense forest a small pole pen, and, upon inquiry, learned that it had been used for confining hogs at night that were driven along this route to Iporanga.
The nature of the soil and the character of the growth changed materially on reaching the large open road; and here again we encountered the pine, indicating thin land, though lying more favorably.
After proceeding upon this road, leading from the town of Faxina to Iporanga for four miles, we halted for the night at a beautiful stream, and I availed myself of the opportunity to take a most refreshing bath after the fatiguing day’s travel.
We had travelled twenty miles only, but, considering the nature of the road, it was a good result.
After the horses had grazed around until they were satisfied, they all came up near our rancho and stood for some time, in expectation of something more substantial. But just then the men were preparing dinner, and while we were eating our broiled pork and farina, of which the meal consisted, the animals all moved off upon the road we had come. I intimated to them that the animals were going away, “Os animals estão indo embora,” to which one of them simply replied, that they would not go far, “Não vão longe;” but after finishing his grub the old man set out in search of them upon my suggesting that they would probably return to his house, “Talves aquelles animals voltarão a sua casa.”
After he had been gone for half an hour, I perceived the son was getting very anxious, but nothing was said indicating any misgivings, while it struck me very forcibly that we might be destined to camp here much longer than desirable. At length the young man started off on the road, when I called to him “Onde vai, Senhor?” (Where are you going, sir?) To which he replied that he was going for fuel—“para lenha,” and turned into the woods. My impression was that he was starting to look for the old man and the mules, but I had no idea of being left here in the wild woods alone, and I kept my eye on his movements closely. At length the old man returned with the animals, having run some two miles to overtake them on their homeward-bound course; and they have received a caution, which will enable them in future to understand the movements of these brutes. They now gave them their corn, and confining the only horse in the train with a bell on his neck, as a rendezvous signal, the mules were allowed to go at large for the night.
We found at this place an old dilapidated rancho of the palm leaves, and seeing that a rain was approaching I stretched my blanket under this, and it served to protect all three of us from the showers that occurred at intervals during the night. My position was on the outside, the others between me and the fire; and the thought occurred to me more than once that any wild beast that might approach from these dense woods must come upon me first, yet I did not care to lie so near the fire as the change would bring me, and gave no signs to them of having any apprehension.
FRIDAY, _January 5, 1866_.
A pot of beans with the shank-bone and feet of a shoat having boiled over the fire during the night, the coffee was promptly prepared and the breakfast was soon served, when I moved off to encounter the worst roads that can ever be travelled. Each of the party was well mounted, and our two pack-mules were substantial and active; but it was with the greatest difficulty that the animals scrambled up the hills, and required the greatest care in sliding down the steep slopes, while the ridges and mud-holes in the comparatively level portions of the road were most serious obstacles to their progress. These roads, where pack trains of mules travel, become crossed from side to side with alternate ridges and hollows by the constant treading of the animals in the same tracks. In strict keeping with the Brazilian character, they follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before, and nothing induces them to change their unvarying adherence to the same track. Thus, one after another, and four or five abreast in a broad road, lines are formed entirely across, resembling when they become dry the ridges formed for planting the sweet potato. Indeed this correspondence is so striking that the first instance seen, being upon a road that had ceased to be travelled by these troops of pack-mules, induced me to think that a crop of potatoes or other roots had been planted there. Yet, upon inquiry, I learned that these ridges resulted from the very thing encountered on the road to-day, and by lapse of time all signs of tracks had disappeared.
On our route the depressions were either full of water and mud, or the slope at one side kept them drained; but in either case it was difficult for the mules to step over the high ridges, and one needs but to try the experiment of stepping repeatedly over elevations of this kind to know how tiresome it must prove to the animal when kept up for some considerable time.
On the hillsides the clay was for the most part solid, and with a slight rain that was falling it was very slick, which impeded our ascent; and our descent of these slick smooth slopes was something very peculiar, and to me quite amusing. The mules seemed to understand the thing perfectly, and would glide down as boys descend a steep clay bank upon a slide, making a continuous impression like the trail of a small narrow slide upon the side of the hill, from top to bottom. The two pack-mules were kept ahead, and upon reaching the top of one of the hills, away they would go one after the other, and as soon as they were out of the way, then down went the animals of the camaradas, as if upon skates, in quick succession, and going with that great speed resulting from the declivity. At the outset, I felt some concern as to following this example upon my staunch and rather tall mule, hunting for a rough part of the ground to descend so as to keep his feet from sliding. But I soon found that it was better to let him go as the others did, and when he would get under way on a long, steep hill, he went down almost with the velocity of a locomotive-engine.
These mules are without shoes, and indeed the best-secured shoes would probably be lost in the stiff mud. The hoof penetrates the clay in the soft parts of the road, and when drawn out it pops at every step like a cupping-glass jerked suddenly from the skin. Only one of the animals made a complete fall during the day, and that was the horse, which was running loose at the time. The mules frequently slipped upon their knees in ascending the slick hills, but were upon their feet again in an instant. These men give their mules the rein entirely loose in descending the hills; and though I felt like keeping a check upon my bridle at first, I observed that the others got on better without tightening their reins, and that the pack-mules went safely without bridles, so that I soon concluded to give my brave and sturdy mule his will, letting him select his own way and his own speed in descending the hills.
When we approached the crest of the serra, the route became so very steep and rugged that, in compassion to my faithful animal, I dismounted and walked up several hills. The camaradas had previously on sundry occasions relieved their animals by walking; and the old man got a fall in going up a slick hill very much such as that which occurred to the horse.
There has been a considerable amount of labor bestowed upon this route across the serra, to make it practicable for pack-mules and those under the saddle; yet it is very difficult to make the trip even with excellent animals, and inferior stock could not traverse this awful road.
I am now entirely satisfied as to the cause of the cotton and other freight going from Faxina and other neighboring places, over the long route by way of São Paulo, to Santos upon pack-mules.
The difficulties of the passage across this serra may not be so great elsewhere as the route by which I travelled to-day; but from all that can be learned it is not likely that communication will ever be made easy from that region to the navigable waters of the Ribeiro de Ignape. Should the same amount of labor be given to the line from Itapetininga to Sette Barros which has been expended upon the Serra de Santos, it is most likely that a practicable road could be made there; and that route is perhaps the most important of any that could be selected for the accommodation of the public interests of the country. The vast and very fertile region of Botocatu would find a ready outlet for its products by this line of communication, and the large tract of agricultural country lying between this place and Apiahy calls loudly for a road to this river, over which wagons as well as pack-mules may pass with facility. A road to Sette Barros, or some point on the Rio Inquia, would secure steamboat transportation, and redound to the greatest benefit of the people throughout this entire region, while it would promote vastly the interests of the government. If the difference of freight by such a line, and the long line of pack-mules to Santos, is considered, it ought to induce prompt action in effecting it.
In different parts of the serra, which is here known as the “Morreo de Chumbo,” (hill of lead,) large mines of lead ore have been discovered; and the large proportion of metal and its freedom from impurities would insure an abundant yield.
Large masses of limestone are also present in several places. In one place, iron ore was likewise observed, which is doubtless connected with an extensive deposit. I was particularly struck with collections of superior red chalk, which would be well adapted for red pencils, as well as the ordinary marking purposes of chalk, while it might also serve as a pigment when ground. There is said also to be a deposit of coal in the range of hills next to Iporanga, but this may be a misapprehension of inexperienced persons. Should there prove to be coal-mines here, the value of the whole assemblage of mineralogical specimens would be immensely enhanced.
All these treasures might be made available which are located upon slopes of the serra looking towards Iporanga, but on the other side the difficulties of transportation are almost insurmountable.
Upon the top of the serra, between two ridges, there is a farm, upon which corn was growing most luxuriantly. Bananas and coffee trees were also seen at another place, looking very well.
An exceeding fine black bull was observed all alone far up on the ridge, and his appearance indicated fine stock. Other cattle in excellent condition were seen elsewhere, and in one group there were four bulls, two of which were very large.[29]
SATURDAY, _January 6, 1866_.
We reposed last night at an old site of a fazenda, belonging to the estate of Senor Rafael, who died about a year since leaving a large property. A negro woman, having charge of the house, gave it up to our possession, and assisted us some in our culinary arrangements, for which she was rewarded by taking breakfast with these camaradas, after I had eaten my frugal meal. The farina was made into mush this morning, and thus furnished something of a variety in our fare.
Having now descended from the elevated land, we proceeded along a stream, called the Ribeirão de Camarga, which was crossed no less than nine times within a few miles; and after leaving it, three other smaller streams were crossed within as many hundred yards, all converging to empty into one channel that was subsequently passed, as it made its way into the great receptacle of these waters, the Ribeira de Ignape.
Within six miles we reached the village of Iporanga, and ascertaining that Senor João Paulo Dias, to whom I bore a letter, was not in town, I called at his house, and found Senor Joaquim José Vieyra da Rocha in possession, who treated me very kindly. He provided a very good meal for me, and yet having no knife on the table, left me to manage with a fork and a spoon. Upon intimating my wish to arrange for proceeding upon my journey, he went and brought Senor Manoel Joquim da Rocha, who advised me to proceed to Xiririca in a canoe, and arrange there for farther progress.
To this I acceded, and requested him to make all the requisite arrangements for the trip on the water, and let me know what was to be paid. He stated that it would be better for me to go this afternoon, some eight miles down the river to the situ of Senor João Paulo, to whom I had brought the letter, and spending the night with him, I could resume my voyage to-morrow morning. All being in readiness, he went with me to the point of embarkation, and upon my proposing to pay, he said all was settled in advance, and that I had nothing to pay. Besides this, he gave me two letters to parties in Xiririca, to facilitate my progress from there. This gentleman being an entire stranger, and having no personal interest whatever in serving me, I appreciated most gratefully his kindness in this matter.
I learned from Senor Manoel that Senor Street had been here some days ago, but had returned to Cananea, and perhaps to São Paulo; yet it was my expectation that he might still be found at the former place, and my wish was to communicate with him if possible in this region.
In descending the river, my negro boatman told me that the gentleman to whose house I was going was one of a party in canoes at a landing near by us. I directed him to stop his canoe at this place, and upon meeting Senor João Paulo, the letter of Senor Joaquim Custodio Merada of Paranapanema was delivered to him. He invited me to return with him and his family to the town; but upon stating to him my destination, he proposed at once to go back with me to his situ below.
I suggested to him that this would perhaps incommode his family, but all seemed to acquiesce cheerfully, and returned.
His cotton field was visited, and the land seemed to be well adapted to the growth of this article; but the work was very deficient, and the want of proper culture was indicated in the large number of stalks that were allowed to remain in a hill. In some instances, I counted as many as eight stalks growing in close proximity to each other, and the hills generally had more than three stalks. I advised him to reduce the stand to two stalks in a place, for a portion at least of his crop, that he might see the benefit of thinning it out. I selected one stalk which happened to be alone, and counted upon it twenty-two squares; and no stalks where there was two or more in a place exceeded sixteen squares, thus illustrating on the spot the advantage of more space.
A portion of the plants on this place have been destroyed by the ants, (formica,) and I suggested to him that the use of the plough in planting and in the subsequent cultivation of the cotton, would be likely to keep the soil free from the ant:
Another portion of the field was overrun with the weeds; and even the hoe had not been used in any part of his cotton, so as to afford a good result. A part of this land is river bottom, but above ordinary inundations, while another part is elevated land, running up from this flat, and it seemed that the latter was the best suited to the production of cotton, being also less liable to the attacks of the ant. This low land would doubtless suit corn well, yet it is here as we see all the world over, the article that is supposed to bring most money has precedence; and no corn was seen, though he stated that it was planted in some other portions of land.
The lands lying along the river thus far are very hilly and almost mountainous, with here and there, as at this place, a level space in which cotton, corn, or sugar-cane is planted. The more irregular lands are usually covered with mandioca, the root of which is the great source of farina, that is so generally used as food in this country.
Coffee trees were observed growing well in the yard at this place, having a good crop of berries and abundant blooms, where the berries were not yet formed. Senor João informed me that coffee gives a good yield here, and that there is no frost in this section to damage the crop.
There is a rice pounding-mill in operation adjoining the dwelling, and it is expected to connect a cotton-gin with the same water-power.
As yet there are no cotton-gins in this region of country, and any one who would anticipate the supply of the planters by erecting machinery for cleaning and packing cotton upon this river, would realize a fine return from his investment.
Senor João gave me this evening a fine specimen of lead ore, taken from a deposit within five miles of Iporanga; and he says there is certainly a bed of coal in the same vicinity, specimens of which he has sent to Rio de Janeiro, but no report has yet been received from the examination of it. He states that a good road can be made from the site of this lead and coal to the river, and transportation in large canoes thence to Xiririca, at which point the river becomes navigable for steamboats.
A large coal-mine here would be far more valuable than a gold mine to the fortunate owner.
Senor João Paulo Dias is the delegado of police for the municipality of Iporanga, and occupying a position in society which entitles his statements and opinions to respect. Upon inquiring the facts as to health and climate in this locality and the adjacent country, he gives an unqualified voucher for their salubrity and pleasantness. I see nothing that could induce disease; and the atmosphere is dry, with the sun shining all the day brightly, while the elevation gives a more pleasant temperature than in lower places, or even in the plateau lands.
I am informed that none of these troublesome little insects which penetrate the skin of the feet, and other parts, are found here, and yet there are hogs constantly about the yard.