Part 12

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil, but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out, and sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very satisfactorily, and all promises well.

TUESDAY, _October 24, 1865_.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district, a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth, and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree. His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead of planting entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed, there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business. Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond of stock.

WEDNESDAY, _October 25, 1865_.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there was no point caught in his first presentation of the matter, and upon asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at starting and arriving.

THURSDAY, _October 26, 1865_.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence of Dom Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda, Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

FRIDAY, _October 27, 1865_.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably, and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed, each of the three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from eating too much.

I rode out to the fields again with the old Colonel, and thus had a little more latitude for practising my vocabulary of Portuguese; and after returning my time was devoted industriously to improving my facility in the use of the language. I read aloud some articles in the newspaper which had already been learned with the use of the dictionary, and some difficulties of construction were explained by the Colonel and his son-in-law. I have also resorted to reading in the Portuguese Testament, with the English at hand, so as to assist me in a proper translation, but this does not seem to improve me so much as the reading of the articles in the newspapers with my dictionary. The effort to understand the idiom is a good exercise.

SATURDAY, _October 28, 1865_.

Although I retired late last night, my sleep was disturbed by the deranged state of my system, and farther perhaps by the presence of a vagalume which had been secured under a glass in the room.

This singular lightning-bug is of the size of an ordinary beetle, and has two luminous spots of considerable brilliancy, corresponding to the position of the eyes. It imparts sufficient light to read when held near the printed page; and the time by a watch is told with great facility when it is held near the face.

The brother of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, Senor Francisco Correa de Arruda,[19] spent the night with us, and impressed me very favorably as a man of substantial worth and good sense.

After breakfast I joined the old Colonel in a ride of six miles to the farm of Senor Joaquim Correa da Assumpsão, where the best cotton was seen growing that has been encountered in my tour. It had borne a crop last season amounting to 2453 pounds in the seed per acre, with a prospect of an increased yield this year after cutting off the stalks. The limbs have already sprouted out to some distance, and are spreading in such form as to make a good stalk; and the squares, blooms, and forming bolls indicate a most excellent result. This land has not been ploughed at any time, and would certainly be improved by cultivation with the plough.

While we were at the house of Senor Assumpsão, a messenger came to notify the old Colonel of the arrival of General Wood and party at the villa of Araraquara. We rode into the villa and found them in charge of some of the citizens. All took breakfast with Dom Andre Dias da Aguinar, and as it was nearly 12 o’clock, they evidently relished his abundant supplies after a ride of sixteen miles.

Upon asking General Wood to give me a memoranda of the names of those constituting his party, the following list was written and handed to me:

General William Wallace W. Wood, lawyer and editor, of Mississippi, representing seven States.

Dr. James H. Warne, surgeon and physician, from Tennessee.

Robert L. Brown, planter, Alabama.

_Aids._—W. C. Kernan, of Florida, architect and builder; Dr. J. P. Wesson, Tennessee, dentist and machinist.

_Government Aids._—Major Ernest Street, civil engineer, São Paulo; Henry Snell, interpreter, Campinas.

Three servants and two mule-tenders; four pack-mules.

Mr. Bennaton failed to meet the General’s party on the road, but returned and joined them at the villa this morning.

The entire cavalcade, accompanied by a number of gentlemen from the villa, repaired to São Lorenço, with the proprietor, and enjoyed a most bountiful and well prepared dinner at 4 o’clock P. M.

I had been introduced to General Wood in New Orleans early in the month of July, and understood from him then that he was delegated to come to Brazil as the representative of five hundred families in Mississippi, but as he was delayed in starting, it seemed to me best that my movements should not be retarded for the sake of his company, and I left the city for New York on the 12th of the month. As I sailed prior to his arrival, there was no further communication between us until our meeting here, and it is now found that his commission has been extended so as to include seven States.

One of his party, Mr. Kernan, brought a letter of introduction to me from Dr. R. P. Daniel, of Florida, in which he remarks: “I was myself, in connection with another gentleman from Florida, on my way to Brazil to locate a colony; circumstances have delayed us so much beyond the time we had proposed that, considering the difference in seasons and other matters, we have concluded to return home and wait until next spring before going on. I regret this delay very much; meantime, will you not let me hear from you at your convenience?”

In the multiplicity of my engagements, it may not be in my power to make such a communication to Dr. Daniel as would be desirable, and the publication of this record will give him and others who have desired information most of the facts in my possession connected with this country.

SUNDAY, _October 29, 1865_.

The large number of guests were all comfortably provided with bedding at São Lorenço, and rose this morning refreshed, and responded promptly to the call for breakfast, doing ample justice to the supplies.

It was intimated to me that Senor Francisco desired me to examine and prescribe for his wife, a daughter of our host; and Mr. Bennaton rode over with us and interpreted my questions and her answers, so that a full history of the case was received. It was a stomatitis of two months standing; and finding a Portuguese medical formulary at São Lorenço I was enabled to make out a regular recipe, which was sent to the druggist in the villa.

Shortly after our return a delegation arrived, representing the villa and county of Araraquara, who presented addresses in Portuguese to General Wood and myself. Our replies were, of course, written in English, but were rendered into Portuguese by Mr. Bennaton, and presented to the representatives, who were in attendance.

A translation of the address to me, and my answer, will be given here, in fulfilment of the request contained in their communication:

“DOCTOR GASTON:—It is not only the commission under which you are acting, and by the fulfilment of which Brazil, developing her immense resources, hopes to attain in a short time to that degree of importance which providence has designed, that causes the municipal common council of this village, interpreting faithfully the sentiments of their citizens, to come by the delegation which you have before you, and express the desire that you may find what you seek; and thus, that your worthy fellow-citizens—our brothers of the American Union—may adopt our country for their country. It is likewise the sentiment of sympathy, doctor, which your manners and education have induced on the part of all who have had intercourse with you.

“Remain then, doctor, amongst us, as also your friends, that you may succeed in obtaining lands, which will be suitable for your energetic farmers and mechanics; and rest assured that we will receive you as brothers receive brothers.

“In this form we ask you to make known to them the sentiments which animate us.

(Signed) “MANOEL FRANCISCO OLIVEIRO, “FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA, “JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.

“ARARAQUARA, _October 29, 1865_.”

“SÃO LORENÇO, _October 29, 1865_.

“GENTLEMEN:—Your address received to-day causes the most grateful emotions, which are enhanced by my separation from those included in your expressions of sympathy: and for them allow me to thank you cordially.

“The regard manifested for myself in this communication, and the personal kindness of your people toward me, cheers my heart, and I feel that I am surrounded by true friends in Araraquara.

“My visit to this country inaugurates a new era, which I trust may conduce to the mutual welfare and enjoyment of our people in after years, and promote likewise the best interests of Brazil.

“Should a suitable location be found for myself and my friends it will be sincerely gratifying to make our home amongst you. I am, very respectfully,

“Your obedient servant, “J. MCF. GASTON.

“To Messrs. MANOEL FRANCISCO DE OLIVEIRO, FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA, JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.”

It will be perceived that this ceremony was on Sunday, and though public business is generally suspended on the Sabbath as a holiday, there is nothing which these people may not do on Sunday so far as any religious scruples are concerned. That we must do in Rome as Rome does, is a bad maxim in morals or in politics; and yet there are certain relations to others in life, and to the circumstances by which we are surrounded, that are next to an impossibility to control. These considerations come to mind constantly here, and it is proper that they should enter into the calculations of our people who may think of removing to this country, as it will be found very difficult to act in such a way as to overcome the influences at work on all sides to subvert our views of duty as to the Sabbath. When a number of like faith and practice are associated together in one community, they may establish their own customs and observances; and the importance of locating together will not subserve this end only, but many other useful objects for our future welfare.

MONDAY, _October 30, 1865_.

General Wood and myself, with our party, accompanied by Colonel Joaquim Lorenço and his son-in-law, Senor Francisco, left São Lorenço this morning shortly after five o’clock A. M. Our object being the exploration of the fazendas of Lagrada, Cambuy and Monte Allegre, it was expected that we would be out several days, and provisions were accordingly made by the old Colonel for all our prospective wants during the tour.

We rode first through a portion of the tract of land known as Lagrada, containing thirty thousand acres of land, and belonging to our host, which he proposed to sell if it is desired. It consists of campo land in two-thirds of its extent, and the remaining third of forest land. Our route this morning was through the campo land, in which the soil was red, and having quite a variety of small trees and shrubs. Some of those bore fruits, while others were of a medicinal character. Among the latter were found the trees from which are procured quinine, manna and India rubber, with the plants of the jalap, columbo, ipecac, and several indigenous remedies for syphilitic diseases and the bites of venomous serpents. Indeed these plains contain quite a variety of fruits and medicinal agents, and it is evident that collections of the latter, having much value, might be made by one acquainted with their properties and general aspects.

We proceeded through a portion of the lands of Cambuy, which is said to contain twelve square leagues of territory, which makes one hundred and twenty-two thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land. The proportion of campo is supposed to be two-thirds to one-third of woodland. Our route lay through a portion of the woodland, which is of the terra rocha order, and about two miles across, to the river Jacaré. Here we found a bridge had been undertaken, but was not completed, nor did the work seem to be progressing.

To the west of this, some half a mile, there empties the Rio da Fazendinha, which conveys sufficient water for motive power, and has a fall of great extent, less than a mile from its mouth. The Rio da Montada and the Rio João Velho are smaller streams, which empty into the Jacaré farther westward.

There is a serra running up and down the Jacaré, and nearly parallel with the general course of the stream, having the crest about two miles distant and sloping gradually on each side; upon that slope next the river chill and fever is said to be generated, while near the crest and upon the opposite slope it is stated to be exempt from all disease.

The lands upon this serra are said to be of the best quality, and if they correspond throughout to the soil seen near the road, there is every reason to anticipate a good result from their cultivation. Until some proper and reliable measurement is made of this fazenda, no idea can be formed of the extent of this body of woodland, yet it is certainly the most valuable territory of the entire tract. If it be two leagues long, and one league wide, as some estimate it to be, it would form a very valuable acquisition for agricultural operations.

In returning from the Jacaré we entered the woods and proceeded to the bank of the Rebeira Fazendinha, where we breakfasted upon passorca and oranges in true traveller’s style. As the components were simple, and yet readily intermixed so as to give them a peculiar fitness for travelling, the process should be understood. Boiled beef is cut up into mincemeat, and then mixed with the farina made of corn so intimately in a mortar that it becomes a coarse powder, and is called passorca. This, then, is eaten with a spoon, and, when combined with an orange, as in our repast, it is really most excellent. In the absence of oranges or a bottle of claret it is well to have water to drink while it is eaten.

In the mean time Senor Francisco shot a macucu and her young bird, which were regarded as a great acquisition to assist in making out our breakfast next morning. This bird of the forest is something larger than a chicken, and is pronounced one of the best for the table; but, in the present case, with young birds of the size of a partridge, the hen is not in the best eating order. A small cobra was also killed.

Our ride, after leaving these woods, was principally through campo lands, in some of which, large, high grass was seen, but, for the most part, the growth of grass was small and scattering. In one place I observed small cane had been growing and was burned off, so that a new crop was sprouting up over the ground. This would doubtless be good grazing while it is tender.

We saw several considerable droves of cattle that were in fair condition, and the calves generally presented a good appearance.

The woodland which was passed in the midst of the campo lands was very well timbered, and looked as if it might have strength of soil adapted to the production of cotton. The sand, however, predominated largely in most of it that was seen; and Senor Joaquim Lorenço told us this was a fair type of these lands located in other parts of the territory. With this information, it was not thought advisable to make a tour of fifteen or twenty miles to see a duplicate of that which we examined; and it was concluded that we would repair to the situ on the place for the night. We passed a fine stream of water some mile of two from the houses, and found a small water-course at the place, adapted to work a monjolo, and perhaps it would serve for a small grist-mill.